Author Archive: Dan P.

Palermo – Chico, Hollywood, SoHo, even Las Cañitas – Recoleta, Centro, San Telmo, maybe a side trip into that two block stretch of La Boca. You’ve read your guidebook and that’s the circuit. Museums, cafes, statues, fountains… that’s what you came here to see, right? You tried out the subway once, maybe even a rocket ride on a colectivo just to say you’ve been on the buses.

You walked in a park, clutching your bag and camera close to you, avoiding those desperate thieves that you read about somewhere in parks in South America. You’re ready to try something a little more adventurous. Sure you can take a day trip to an estancia or Colonia, but how about somewhere to eat that doesn’t require an hour or two of travel?

Francisco “Paco” Urondo was a poet, journalist, and militant politician, born in 1930, until his death in 1976 at the hands of the then current Argentine regime. Reading poetry in a new language is possibly the most difficult undertaking of the learning process, though, luckily, it’s not a prerequisite for dining at Urondo, Beauchef 1204 (corner of Estrada), 4922-9671, run by his son and nephew. If you never leave the touristy neighborhoods for anywhere else, you should for this place. Beauchef, is not pronounced in the French fashion, it’s pronounced “beya-oo-chef” – or your cab driver will have no idea where you’re going. The restaurant is a small venue, located in the quiet residential neighborhood of Parque Chacabuco. It’s only open Wednesday through Saturday evenings and I do recommend reservations for dining as it’s a popular spot with food folk in the know and locals. It’s a very comfortable room, with reasonably spacious tables, high ceilings, and while minimalist in decor, somehow just right. The open kitchen is semi-hidden by a high counter separating it from the dining room, which cuts down on the clatter from the cooking, and allows for a feeling of activity and movement from the kitchen, without having to see the nitty-gritty of every move. The menu is short, changes regularly, and is an amazingly multi-ethnic fusion of flavors, taking Argentine classics and giving them the zip of Southeast Asia, India, Africa, Europe… pretty much the rest of the world. In the hands of many chefs, multi-ethnic fusion food is a recipe for disaster. Combining two cuisines can be hard enough as it is, so it’s impressive to find someone who can take the range of flavors offered by the global palate and forge them into something that not only works, but works brilliantly. The wine list is an interesting selection of mostly not so well known labels, clearly selected to work with the food, including some older wines, and occasionally the (“gasp”) inclusion of wines from outside of Argentina.

This review was cut from the final published version for unknown reasons:

Everyone seems surprised when I mention that there’s a Chinatown, Barrio Chino, in Buenos Aires. What gets more surprised looks is when I mention that my favorite place there isn’t a Chinese restaurant, nor even that of some other Asian cuisine. It’s easy to forget, or simply not to know, when you’re wandering through a neighborhood like Barrio Chino that it hasn’t always been predominately Chinese. Juanita Posternak is definitely not Chinese had a nice little house along Arribeños years before the first Taiwanese market opened in 1985. Before the first store of the soon to emerge Barrio Chino opened its doors, she opened, or closed, the doors – 23 years ago, to Mis Raíces, Arribeños 2148, 4784-5100, www.restaurantmisraices.com.ar, was born. And those “roots” are in the Eastern European Jewish community. Mis Raíces is open, as Ms. Pasternak quips regularly, “from Monday to Monday”. She’ll feed people dinner whenever they want to come, seven days a week – as long as it’s at 9:00 and when she decides to say yes. By reservation only, don’t just go ringing the bell on the front door. But make the call or send the e-mail, and don’t eat anything the rest of the day before going. Climb the wide steps to the main floor and find yourself in an opened up living and dining room that can hold around 35-40 diners. Order some wine, she’s got a selection. Let her peer at you through her oversized, windshield thick, French-designer glasses, size you up a bit you know. You’ll get asked if you’re Jewish, she needs to know her audience, because she has tales to tell, and food to explain. Shortly you’ll find yourself noshing on her homemade chopped liver, delicious pickles, borscht with sweet cream, gefilte fish, kasha, roast chicken… it keeps going – platter after platter until you beg for it to stop – “what, you don’t like my food? Have a little more… you could use some more meat on your bones…”

Malbec gets all the play here. It’s in the press, local and international. Argentina is known for it. Yet, until very recently, the most planted red grape – and still coming in a very close second – was Bonarda. This grape has origins in Piemonte and Lombardia in Italy, with a few different strains being grown, and there’s some debate over which particular variety of the grape has found its way to this land of grazing beef. It also never got famous because until quite recently it was used by most winemakers as a workhorse blending grape – something to add some color or body to other reds, like the lighter Malbecs, or just as part of bulk wines – you know, just plain red. But it’s a successful wine in the north of Italy, so why not here? A few bold souls on the domestic wine scene decided to experiment, and discovered that they could make some excellent wines – bold, rich, spicy, and dark in color. Now, there are so many to choose from that it becomes like trying to select a favorite Malbec, but, a couple that stand out are the Sur de Los Andes Bonarda and the Trivento Reserve Bonarda. The former is a somewhat more medium bodied style – delicious, with flavors of red plums, maraschino cherries, white chocolate, and juicy acidity, and a nice long finish, and in a restaurant will probably set you back no more than about 30 pesos. The latter, a bold, jammy style with red plums and wildflowers, very smooth and sensual, that will run you more in the 50 to 60 peso range.

In October 2006, I started writing for this Spanish language magazine, covering their English language section for travellers. I wrote for them for about two years. The copy editor, apparently not fluent in English, used to put each paragraph in its own text box on a two column page, in what often seemed to be random order, making the thread of the column difficult to follow. I’ve restored the paragraphs to their original order.

Coming into this month there are so many things to look at – it’s Women’s month, we’re moving into the end of summer and harvest season, and, of course there are important dates like St. Patrick’s Day and the change in Daylight Savings Time, which affects us here in Argentina only in that it changes our time relationship to the rest of the world by an hour.

My first thoughts for a month devoted to women, leprechauns aside, were to look at a couple of favorite restaurants that are owned and run by women. Of my three favorites, I’ve covered one in a recent column, El Federal, so I’ll have to pass on covering it again. The others are both favorite lunch spots. I almost hesitate to cover it, as it’s a tiny little spot with only fourteen seats. On the other hand, the woman who owns it, María Laura D´Aloisio, and her brother, are about to open a second, larger spot, with the same theme, but for dinner. They’re not giving up the original space, so both will continue. The restaurant is Florencio, and it’s located up on the hill behind the British Embassy in Recoleta, at Francisco de Vittoria 2363, 4807-6477. It’s not easy to find, but it’s worth making the effort. Maria Laura makes what are quite possibly the best sandwiches in the city, not to mention her other dishes – well, one, easily the best chicken liver mushroom paté around. Start with the fact that she makes all her own bread, working with just one assistant in a kitchen the size of standard bathroom. Add to that pristinely fresh ingredients, in delicious combinations, friendly service, and an intimate atmosphere, and she’s simply got a completely winning setup. Maria Laura is fanatical, there’s no other word for it, about the quality of both what goes into her food, and its presentation, and it shows. It’s open for lunch Monday through Saturday, and dinner Tuesday and Friday only. When I first hear that she was opening a second, and larger spot, I began to worry – would my beloved lunch spot disappear? But, she claims there are no worries to be had, she will continue to operate the original Florencio for lunch, and the new locale will be their focus for dinner – which probably means eliminating the two evenings of dinner service at the original spot. The new venue will be on Avenida Libertador, just the other side of the Palais du Glace.

Thinking along other lines, harvest season brings to mind the cornucopia of fresh ingredients that area available here. While most folks think about Buenos Aires in terms of its beef, one of the things I love about the city is the constant access to fresh, seasonal produce. I just wish more restaurants would take advantage of the bounty at their fingertips. But this also gives me the opportunity to offer up another favorite lunch spot, also run by a woman, Carmen Paz, even though she says she’s part of a team of owners, it only takes a few minutes of watching the activity to know who’s pretty much running the show. The spot, Providencia, located behind a bright orange door that has a sign telling you to knock loudly, at Cabrera 5995, corner of Arevalo, in Palermo, 4772-8507, which is also the site of Los 7 Panes bakery, easily one of the best spots for bread in the entire city. The restaurant serves up vegetarian cuisine, though we’re not talking about chewy brown food and bean sprouts, we’re talking about creative tarts, stews, soups, and pastas – when they have it, don’t miss out on their masa crocante rellena, a large baked pasta round folded over a delicious amalgam of vegetables and cheeses. Like Florencio, Providencia is primarily just a lunch spot, and only opens for dinner on occasional nights when the weather is nice and they’re in the mood.

This section, the “Best Value March 07” for Bodega Sur de los Andes was not something I wrote. It was inserted into the middle of my column by the editors as a promotion (the owner of the bodega is the brother of the editor-in-chief of the magazine). Not that I particularly object, I happen to like Sur de los Andes wines quite a bit. My original copy featured recommendations for two Cabernet Franc based wines from Finca Morera and Kaufmann, reproduced below the insert.

March’s Best Value 07. Sur de los Andes experienced the greatest growth of any Argentine producer in to the U.S. in 2006, rising more than 150 places to finish in 42nd position among all exporters. For the last year, U.S. sales reached U$D 298,000 from just over 7,000 twelve bottle cases. An Argentine businessman created Sur de los Andes in September 2005. In the first year since inception, the bodega has positioned itself as an important player in the United States, gaining market position over many prestigious Argentine wineries. Much of the credit for this success is due to the excellent price/quality ratio of the portfolio and to the winemaking ability of Pablo Durrigutti who is in complete control of all phases of the winemaking operation. The total amount of Argentine wine exported to the United States during 2006, not including bulk wine, was U$D 69.4 million dollars from 2.4 million cases. Argentine wine sales to the U.S. dominate those to other marketplaces, amounting to 25% of all Argentine exports. This is clearly shown by the fact that the next three leading importers of Argentine wine, The United Kingdom, Brazil and Canada, together import 27%. For the year 2006 a record total of 224 producers exported wine to the United States – with the top ten wineries representing 50% of sales. In its first full year of operation, Bodega Sur de los Andes was able to introduce its portfolio into 22 of the 48 contiguous states in the United States including the largest and most competitive: New York, California, Texas and Florida. Sur de los Andes produces wines from the traditional Argentine grapes, Malbec, Bonarda and Torrontés, with one blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon all at the basic level. There are two reserve level products, a Malbec and a Bonarda and a premium product, Malbec Grand Reserve. The company also plans to increase their presence considerably in the local Argentine market, focusing on wine shops and restaurants of mid and high-level cuisine.

While of course Argentina is most associated with Malbec, folks often forget that many other grape varieties go into the wines here. Not just the usual suspects like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, but many interesting Italian and French varietals as well. One of my favorites grapes is the Cabernet Franc – one of the two parents of the cross that produced Cabernet Sauvignon, the other being Sauvignon Blanc – yes, a white grape. Cabernet Franc tends to be more rustic in style than it’s offspring, with complex flavors of olives and bacon fat blended beautifully with rich red fruits. One of the interesting things about the grape is that it lends itself well to both rich, full bodied wines – there are some spectacular Bordeaux that are nearly all Cabernet Franc, as well as some Italian wines – and to light, easy drinking styles, like many of the Loire Valley reds. Here in Argentina it’s a less commonly grown grape, but when cared for, produces some excellent wines. My two favorites are the Finca Morera, a delicious tasting red that leans towards the lighter side with flavors of red plums, dried herbs, and green olives; and the Kaufman, a full bodied blend of mixed red fruits, spices, dried tobacco leaf, and green olives. Both are excellent, and both are great late summer wines – I recommend the former with poultry and richer fish dishes, and the latter is a great alternative to Malbec with that steak right off the parrilla.

I often get asked about what are the “must try” dishes in Buenos Aires other than a good steak. One of my favorites, and probably a favorite of most of the population, is the matambre relleno. Not to be confused with the cut of meat called a matambre, which is a skirt steak, or sometimes used to refer to a flank steak, this dish makes use of that cut of meat rolled around a filling that’s usually made up of hard boiled eggs, carrots, spinach, peppers, and onions. It’s poached and then roasted, and generally served chilled or room temperature in slices, accompanied by another local fave, the ensalada rusa, a mix of diced potato, carrots, and peas with a mayonnaise dressing. It’s also sometimes served napolitana style, which means the slices are topped with a little tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese, and then stuck under a broiler to get all browned and bubbly. Either way, it’s a don’t miss appetizer in local restaurants.

In October 2006, I started writing for this Spanish language magazine, covering their English language section for travellers. I wrote for them for about two years. The copy editor, apparently not fluent in English, used to put each paragraph in its own text box on a two column page, in what often seemed to be random order, making the thread of the column difficult to follow. I’ve restored the paragraphs to their original order.

Just as beauty is in the eye of the beholder, romance is in the heart of the perceiver. For a teenage couple, a romantic dining experience might be the local hamburger shop, for a long term couple, perhaps that little neighborhood café where they first met. For me, I like a spot that makes me feel at home, casual, comfortable, but with good food and wine – there were places in New York, like the Beatrice Inn, or the Black Sheep Tavern, that were, for me, the epitome of romance. Here, in Buenos Aires, I’ve found a few, and at least from my perspective, they would be the perfect sorts of places to spend the evening on Valentine’s Day.

For those who don’t know the history of the day, it’s a Catholic reinterpretation, or adoption, of an ancient pagan holiday called Lupercalia, a day devoted to the celebration of fertility. It basically involved a bunch of young men chasing around a bunch of young women while playfully tagging them with goatskin whips. Though, no doubt, amusing to watch, I think I’m thankful that this tradition has passed into antiquity. Especially while I’m out to dinner.

Fitting into my ideal of dining in a homey atmosphere is the tranquil atmosphere of José’s house… Lo de José Slow Food, at Arenales 2659 in Palermo, 4823-8476 is a place where the pace slows to a casual stroll, food arrives when it’s ready, and not necessarily in any particular order, and somehow, you just know that you’re being taken care of. You’ll find yourself seated in José’s living room, where he’s setup a good number of small tables, decorated the room beautifully (though he has a somewhat overzealous penchant for angels…), and is back in the kitchen busy preparing whatever you may have ordered. He basically makes everything from scratch and to order, focusing on fresh pastas and filled crepes, one after the other delicious, and clearly prepared with care and passion. The tables are well-spaced, so you can have a quiet, romantic conversation without the eavesdropping of your neighbors, and the tab won’t put a strain on your wallet.

In a totally different vein, there are folks who find romance in a more active, busy atmosphere. In that style, I tend to like casual lounge settings, and easy to eat, casual food made for sharing. One of my favorites is Rubia y Negra, Libertad 1630, in Recoleta, 4313-1125. Here, you have your choice between four different seating arrangements – you can ensconce yourself at the long wooden bar, pick a “regular” table off to the side, dine at high, brushed steel communal tables, or relax on comfy sofas scattered around the room around low mesas ratones, or as we would call them, coffee tables. The food is a mix of Japanese, with a focus on quite good sushi, and other dishes, including some excellent risottos – there’s definitely a rice-driven theme to the menu. There’s a wonderfully creative cocktail list, a good wine selection, and friendly, casual service. The ambiance gives you the chance to be alone, or interact with others, to your heart’s content. Light jazz music plays in the background, everyone looks fabulous in the decor and lighting, and though it will cost you, for a nice evening out, it’s well worth the price.

February here is still the midst of summer, and can be, at times, brutally hot and humid. Since Valentine’s Day has a reputation for things pink, it’s a perfect time for something to drink in the rosé world. Argentina’s flagship red grape, the Malbec, makes wonderfully full flavored rosados that are often nearly equal in structure and body to the full-on reds. Leaning towards the lighter side, but still packed with flavor, is the delicious pink offering from rising star José Luis Mounier, of Salta. Formerly the winemaker at well-known Bodega Etchart, he’s now got his own line of wines out under his own name, and that of Finca Las Nubes. All of his wines are made from hand-selected grapes, in fact, all the vineyard work is done by hand, and with organic methods. The result, a perfectly balanced Malbec-based rosé, with just a touch of Cabernet, that is a spectacular value.

In a bigger, richer style, is the relatively new Alamos Malbec Maceración Atenuado, a short-term fermented Malbec that hovers somewhere between rosé and red. It can take a good chill, and the flavors brighten and sharpen as its temperature drops, so I recommend keeping it on ice. The wine shows all the plum, cinnamon, and candied violet flavors of a classic Malbec, in a completely refreshing package. Definitely a great “red” for fish or lighter meats, or when you find yourself somewhere where the temperature is high but you still want the strength of a rich red.

In October 2006, I started writing for this Spanish language magazine, covering their English language section for travellers. I wrote for them for about two years. The copy editor, apparently not fluent in English, used to put each paragraph in its own text box on a two column page, in what often seemed to be random order, making the thread of the column difficult to follow. I’ve restored the paragraphs to their original order.

Summer is definitely upon us. For some, there’s the siren call of a dining room that’s aire acondicionado. For others, it’s a chance to catch some rays and bronze a little while dining al fresco, or enjoy the cooling evening breezes as the heat of the day fades away. Buenos Aires abounds with places where you can grab a seat at a sidewalk or plaza table, ranging from mass gathering places like Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo and Plaza Serrano in Palermo SoHo to side-by-side restaurant rows with outdoor tables, like Village Recoleta, Puerto Madero, or Plaza Costa Rica. With limited regulation on where you can stick a table, even the average neighborhood café is likely to have a table or two strategically placed out on the sidewalk in front.

Imagine, if you will, a beautiful terrace looking out over a sculpted park. Comfortable cushioned lounge chairs around low tables are scattered across the flagstones. The seats are taken up by a mix of the young and beautiful, the wealthy and famous, the curious, and, simply, the hungry. Primafila, officially at Pueyrredón 2501, but in practice located in the center of the second level terrace of the Buenos Aires Design Center, 4804-0055, is a spot to see and be seen, and to dine truly well. While you can have your meal inside, the place to be is afuera, where you’ll be greeted and taken care of by a cadre of informed, capable staff, who really know something about the food and wine they are serving. The focus is on creative Italian cuisine, with a few Argentine twists. They offer some don’t miss pizzas, beautifully presented salads, and absolutely delicious pastas and main courses. If you’re into the whole world of offal, their spiced and caramelized sweetbreads are quite possibly the finest presentation of this organ meat I’ve ever had the pleasure to try in a restaurant. The restaurant offers one of the better wine lists in the area, and it’s not over-priced. Overall, Primafila is a bit on the expensive side, but not at all out of line for the setting and quality of the food.

One of the prettiest little plazas for dining al fresco is Plaza Costa Rica, located in the heart of Palermo. Surrounding the park are a good number of restaurants and cafes, all of the more casual variety, and many of them serving up some excellent food. One of our favorites is a self-termed lugar de encuentro, or meeting place – a trendy corner Argentine style bistro called Janio, at Malabia 1805, 4833-6540, www.janiorestaurant.com.ar. The outdoor area that surrounds the restaurant is one of the prime people watching spots of the neighborhood, whether it’s people walking by, or your fellow diners, or for that matter, the waiters and waitresses, who are both reasonably versed in the restaurant’s food, and some of the prettiest eye candy in the zone. The food tends towards the light side, with a mix of interesting pastas, vegetarian dishes, and lighter twists on classic porteño fare. It would be a shame to pass up their house-made paté, or their over-sized eggplant and tomato ravioli, or for that matter, one of the better veggie-burgers in the city. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t try their meat dishes – they handle those equally well. Their wine list and beer selection is pretty basic and inexpensive, but they also have a well stocked bar and bartenders who know how to mix a drink. On the whole, Janio is a great value, and you certainly won’t be stretching your budget while still having a delightful meal.

The summer is a time when I like an absolutely cold, crisp bottle of white wine, kept on ice right there by my side. A favorite for drinking in hot weather is Sauvignon blanc. It’s hard to find a truly lean and dry styled Sauvignon here, as the preferred style tends to be a bit “fatter” and often having spent a bit of time in an oak barrel. But recently I’ve come across two truly delicious offerings of the former style – which not only is great for the season, but pairs beautifully with food. Both wines range in the low 20 pesos retail, probably running around 30 in a restaurant – and are steals at that price. The first, and my favorite of the two by a slight edge is the La Flor de Pulenta Sauvignon Blanc 2006 – crisp and dry, with delightful lime and grass aromas, amazingly juicy acidity, and a long finish – truly it reminds me of a high quality Sancerre from the Loire Valley. The other is the Los Cardos Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Doña Paula, with a slightly more tropical fruit style, but still with lean acidity and great length – in some ways this version called to mind a classic New Zealand Sauvignon.

January and February, while they’re the height of the tourist season, are also the height of the summer. That means that a lot of locals take off for points like the shore, the south of the country, or neighboring vacation destinations like Uruguay, Brazil, and Chile. While I always recommend making a reservation for dining out, especially at dinner time, in Buenos Aires, I make that an extra strong recommendation during this season, as many restaurants simply close up for anywhere from two to four weeks for a summer vacation. If you’re headed here and there’s somewhere you simply must dine at, it’s worth your while to find out if they’ll be here while you are!

In October 2006, I started writing for this Spanish language magazine, covering their English language section for travellers. I wrote for them for about two years. The copy editor, apparently not fluent in English, used to put each paragraph in its own text box on a two column page, in what often seemed to be random order, making the thread of the column difficult to follow. I’ve restored the paragraphs to their original order.