Author Archive: Dan P.

Step-by-Step Wine Service

Friday, November 1, 19962

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November-December 1996
Pages 42-43

The Sommelier Society of America had a regular column in the magazine towards the beginning, and I believe this was actually the first issue. Two of us from the society who were part of the Education Committee were asked to put this together – I did the writing and my recollection is that the lovely hand model was Joe Scalice.

Step-by-Step Wine Service

There are many ways to open a bottle of wine, ranging from casual to very formal. Behind them is a tradition of “correct” service, which draws on decades of experience. Remember, the “host” is whomever ordered the wine, unless you are instructed that someone else will taste it.

❶ Carry the bottle carefully to the table and present it from the host's right side. Cardle the bottle in a clean cloth and make sure the label is facing the host at an angle easy to read. Reconfirm the host's order by stating the producer's name, type of wine and vintage.

❶ Carry the bottle carefully to the table and present it from the host’s right side. Cardle the bottle in a clean cloth and make sure the label is facing the host at an angle easy to read. Reconfirm the host’s order by stating the producer’s name, type of wine and vintage.


❷ With the blade of your corkscrew, cut the capsule below the lip of the bottle. This prevents contamination of the wine from residue under the capsule. Note: For steps 2 through 4, if you are serving in a more formal environment, place the bottle on a side table while opening it.

❷ With the blade of your corkscrew, cut the capsule below the lip of the bottle. This prevents contamination of the wine from residue under the capsule. Note: For steps 2 through 4, if you are serving in a more formal environment, place the bottle on a side table while opening it.


❸ Wipe the top of the bottle with a clean cloth. Insert the tip of your corkscrew into the center of the cork and twist in a clockwise direction. Insert the corkscrew deep enough to get good leverage, but be careful not to puncture through the bottom of the cork.

❸ Wipe the top of the bottle with a clean cloth. Insert the tip of your corkscrew into the center of the cork and twist in a clockwise direction. Insert the corkscrew deep enough to get good leverage, but be careful not to puncture through the bottom of the cork.


❹ Hold the corkscrew level securely against the bottle lip with your other hand. Slowly draw the cork out. You may need to rotate the corkscrew a quarter or half turn to help draw the cork out evenly. At the end, grasp and gently push the cork from the side with your thumb to remove it.

❹ Hold the corkscrew level securely against the bottle lip with your other hand. Slowly draw the cork out. You may need to rotate the corkscrew a quarter or half turn to help draw the cork out evenly. At the end, grasp and gently push the cork from the side with your thumb to remove it.


❺ Wipe the outside and inside of the lip of the bottle with a clean cloth. Make sure to clean away any residue or bits of cork that may be left behind. It helps if you dampen a corner of the cloth with water.

❺ Wipe the outside and inside of the lip of the bottle with a clean cloth. Make sure to clean away any residue or bits of cork that may be left behind. It helps if you dampen a corner of the cloth with water.


❻ Present the cork to the host on a small plate or underliner for his or her inspection. If you have opened the bottle away from the table, present it again.

❻ Present the cork to the host on a small plate or underliner for his or her inspection. If you have opened the bottle away from the table, present it again.


❼ Pour a taste of the wine for the host. A proper taste (approximately one ounce) should be enough for the host to get a true sense of the wine. While the host is tasting, hold the bottle so he or she can read the label.

❼ Pour a taste of the wine for the host. A proper taste (approximately one ounce) should be enough for the host to get a true sense of the wine. While the host is tasting, hold the bottle so he or she can read the label.


❽ ❽ Have a clean cloth in hand to wipe the lip of the bottle after each pour. This prevents drips on the table or streaks down the side of the bottle.

❽ Have a clean cloth in hand to wipe the lip of the bottle after each pour. This prevents drips on the table or streaks down the side of the bottle.


❾ After the host accepts the wine, pour for the others at the table, always from the right side. Serve in a clockwise direction, beginning with the person to the hosts's left. In a more formal setting, pour all women at the table first, then a second time around for the men.

❾ After the host accepts the wine, pour for the others at the table, always from the right side. Serve in a clockwise direction, beginning with the person to the hosts’s left. In a more formal setting, pour all women at the table first, then a second time around for the men.


❿ The host is always poured last, regardless of gender. Fill glasses only to between ⅓ and ½ full. This allows room for the bouquet of the wine to develop in the glass.

❿ The host is always poured last, regardless of gender. Fill glasses only to between ⅓ and ½ full. This allows room for the bouquet of the wine to develop in the glass.


⓫ White, sparkling and most dessert wines should be place in an ice bucket on or near the customers' table. The bottle should be easily visible to the host.

⓫ White, sparkling and most dessert wines should be place in an ice bucket on or near the customers’ table. The bottle should be easily visible to the host.


⓬ Red wines (or others at the host's request) should be placed on an underliner or small plate on or near the table. Again, the bottle and label should be easily visible to the host.

⓬ Red wines (or others at the host’s request) should be placed on an underliner or small plate on or near the table. Again, the bottle and label should be easily visible to the host.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Columbus Day Pinot Dinner

Sunday, October 13, 19960

19961013

A dinner to explore the various varieties of Pinot grapes, featuring some of my favorites at the time.

The Second Sunday Supper Circle
Columbus Day Pinot Dinner
October 13, 1996

1993 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris
Chilled Thai Style Melon Soup

1994 Schoffit Pinot Blanc Auxerrois Cuvee Caroline
Pan-seared Spiced Trout, Bluett Mushrooms, with Caramelized Red Onions & Smoked Apple Butter

1991 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis Monts Luisant
Sauteed Scallops with Jambon Cru de Beaujolais, Pepper Confetti & a Balsamic Reduction

1993 Domaine Chandon Pinot Meunier
Roasted Tuna with Peach Scales & Matsutake Mushroom Ragout

1990 Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot
Selection of Burgundian Cheeses: Chaource, Chevreton & Pavin

1991 Aloise Kracher Weissburgunder Beerenauslese
Applejack Babas

Clear Creek Distillery Grappa from Pinot Grigio
Coffee

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Wine Notes – October-November 1996

Tuesday, October 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
October-November 1996

The Mushroom Connection

Fall is mushroom season, and they’re here. Over the next month or two, the two king mushrooms of Italian cooking, porcinis and truffles, are in plentiful supply. Special menu items, and, on some evenings, special entire menus will be devoted to these two delicious fungi.

With their rich flavors, these mushrooms need big wines that will complement their earthiness without overpowering them. Both white and red wines are appropriate, and we’ve added some wonderful wines that are perfect partners for you and your mushrooms.

For whites, try the full bodied Fiano d’Avellino Radici from Mastroberardino; Valentini’s earthy style of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is another great choice. From our specialty region, Friuli, we’ve brought in the single vineyard Dessimis Pinot Grigio from Vie di Romans, and continue to offer Gravner Breg, a big, delicious barrique aged blend of local varietals.

In red wines, the two big classics of Italy are the winners here – Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. For porcinis, opt for the Sangiovese in any of its many forms: Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Carmignano, or treat yourself to one of our selection of “Super Tuscans”. Great choices include the ric, earthy, Fattoria Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva, or try a delicious older Brunello di Montalcino from producer Val di Suga. If you like a little spice with your earthiness, try Gattavecchi’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or investigate Carmignano Riserva from Capezzana. Any of the super Tuscans will be a match for the flavors of the porcinis, try Montevertine’s Il novantuno di Sergio Manetti, a special winemaker’s blend from the 1991 vintage, or splurge on an older bottle of Tignanello from the Marchese Antinori.

When the truffles arrive, it’s time to think Nebbiolo. The noble grape of Barolo and Barbaresco comes with its own aromas of truffles, roses, and old leather. These wines only improve wiht age and whether you go for an elegant style like Michele Chiarlo Barolo Granduca or Vietti Barbaresco, or go for big and solid like Marcarini or Ceretto Barolo or splurging on an incredible Gaja Barbaresco, you can’t beat these wine matches. And don’t overlook the lesser known Nebbiolos like Gattinara, Spanna, and Ghemme.

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Sommelier’s Corner … Answer to Your Questions

I’ve picked a wine, what do I do when you bring it to the table?

The first thing I’ll do is show you the bottle. I’ll tell you what it is. Why? Just to confirm that it’s what you meant to order. As the suave, sophisticated customer that you’re about to become, try not to get that glazed over panic look. You’re only looking for two things. Is it the right wine and is it the right vintage? This is a really good moment to pay close attention. First, I might have made a mistake. Especially if you ordered the wine from someone else, like when you thrust the list at the busboy and said something that to him sounded like, “Bring me the Chateau Marmaduke.” I’ve gotten really good at interpreting these missives, but now and then the translation is garbled. Second, you might have ordered by pointing casually at the menu or giving me a bin number. I may have mistaken where you were pointing, or you may have read off the wrong bin number. And lastly, you want to that I brought you the right vintage of the wine. Each year is different, and why shouldn’t you get what you’re paying for?

 

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Wine Notes – September-October 1996

Sunday, September 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
September-October 1996

To Decant or Not To Decant?

Decanting a wine is when we pour a wine from its bottle into a glass carafe called, appropriately enough, a decanter. There are two primary reasons for decanting. The first is to separate the wine from sediment in the bottle. Wine is a living, evolving liquid. As it ages, certain components join together creating particles big enough to settle to the bottom of the bottle. While not harmful to the wine or the drinker, sediment is aesthetically unpleasant and generally is best left behind. This is the reason decanting is done over a candle flame or other light source. It allows us to see through the wine and watch for the sediment reaching the neck of the bottle. It is also why it is best to avoid flipping the bottle around to look at a back label, or suddenly standing it up from a horizontal position – the sediment is stirred up and becomes inseparable from the wine.

The second reason for decanting is to aerate a wine. Certain wines, mostly full-bodied reds, benefit from aeration. Think of it as allowing a big wine that was cramped up in a small bottle to stretch. Merely removing a cork from a bottle does not allow a wine to “breathe” as is commonly assumed. If you think about it only a dime sized surface area is allowed contact with air – breathing could take hours in a full bottle. A decanter with a wider surface area, and the decanting process, provide optimal aeration.

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What’s Italian For Cabernet?

When most of us think of Cabernet we think of California. We may not realize that many of the world’s top red wines are made from Cabernet – Bordeaux for example. Italy probably never even enters our minds. Yet Italy produces some truly wonderful Cabernets and Cabernet blends. They are produced throughout the nation, from the far northeast in Friuli, to the islands of the south – Sicilia and Sardegna. Though different in style – not only from the California wines we are used to drinking – but also from each other, these wines are outstanding in their own right. Try an Italian Cabernet with your meal and open a new world of wine drinking for you and your guests.

  • Gaja is one of Piemonte’s premier producers, and his single vineyard Cabernet Darmagi is an outstanding example of the quality of wines he produces. A perfect partner wiht lamb or beef.
  • Although many Super Tuscans include Cabernet in their blend, Isole e Olena‘s Collezione de Marchi Cabernet is a pure standout. Its elegance is a match for our veal dishes.
  • From Sicily, Regaleali Cabernet Sauvignon is a full-bodied wine originally produced as an experimental addition to the Conte Tasca d’Almerita line. A touch of rustic styling makes this a delicious wine with game.
  • Cabernet Franc is often considered the lesser cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, Girolamo Dorigo proves there’s nothing lesser about it. This smoky, spicy red is a delight with aromatic sauces on meats or fish.
  • In Veneto, Fausto Maculan is considered a maverick. His rich, full-bodied Fratta and premium Ferrata vineyard Cabernets prove it. drink with poultry or meat dishes.
  • It may look unpronounceable, but Boccadigabbia‘s Akronte Cabernet is anything but undrinkable. Lush and ripe, this wine is ready to drink now with pasta, risotto, and mushrooms.

 

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August Exotica

Sunday, August 11, 19960

19960811

All I recall about this dinner was that I was trying to use some unusual ingredients that I’d not worked with before and see what I could come up with.

August Exotica
at the
Second Sunday Supper Circle
11 August 1996

❶ Simmer Australian Bush Tomatoes, Lemon Verbena, Lemon Thyme and Lemongrass in Stock. Clarify. Add gelatin. Chill. Poach Ecuadorian Jumbo Shrimp in herb stock. Ladle consommé into bowls and garnish with shrimp and thin slices of Serrano and Cayenne Peppers. Serve with Non-Vintage Domaine Chandon Brut Reserve.

❷ Rub whole Pom-Pom mushrooms with butter and roast in a baking pan until soft. Sauté Shallots in rice wine vinegar till almost evaporated. Whisk in cold butter till thick. Add chopped Shiso leaves. Season with salt and white pepper. Ladle over mushrooms and garnish with herbs. Serve with 1994 Pinot Gris from The Eyrie Vineyards.

❸ Rinse Dulce of all brine. Cut in chiffonade. Sauté briefly till limp and warm. Quarter Sunchokes and slice Lily Bulbs. Pan roast till soft and slightly browned. Make pesto from Vietnamese Cilantro, Garlic, Parmesan, Pinenuts and Olive Oil. Season. Arrange Dulce into nests, fill with vegetables and top with Pesto. Accompany with 1993 Coturri Alicante Boushet.

❹ Puree and strain Fresh Huckleberries. Steep with a Cinnamon Stick. Sauté Honshimeji mushrooms in butter with a touch of Nutmeg. Dust Ostrich Steaks with Mace. Sear quickly on each side. Serve in pool of sauce. Top with mushrooms and whole berries. Serve with 1992 Robert Sinskey Reserve Merlot.

❺ Slice thin wedges of Spanish Cheeses: Mahon (cow’s milk), Idiazabal (sheep’s milk), and Ricanante (goat’s milk). Arrange on plate. Scoop rounds of Cabrales (blue from cow, sheep and goat’s milks) and place in center of plate. Match with a 1985 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva.

❻ Steep chopped, dried Apricots in brandy. Cream Butter and Sugar. Add Egg Yolks and beat well. Add Milk and sifted Cake Flour. Fold Apricots and Pinenuts into mixture. Beat Egg Whites till stiff and fold in. Bake, topped with additional Pinenuts. Puree Shiro Plums with Maple Syrup. Warm. Serve over wedges of cake. Accompany with 1991 Kracher Scheurebe Beerenauslese.

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Libretto Libations

Monday, August 5, 19960

Q San Francisco
August/September 1996
Page 40

Libretto Libations

When asked to write a column about wine and opera I found myself at a bit of a loss. I mean, who am I to suggest that Tristan and Isolde drink a couple glasses of Napa Valley Cab instead of poison? If Tosca and Scarpia had sat down and had a lively little glass of Riesling would she still have stabbed him? The safe bet with opera is champagne. Not just sparkling wine from anywhere, even though there are good examples from around the world. Opera calls for true champagne.

There are six standard vocal ranges amongst opera singers, and I have endeavored to select a prestige champagne for each.

Down in the deeper registers are the basso profundo and bass baritone. At this level we look for a champagne with “body.” Power, strength and vigor are characteristic of these wines. Deep aromas of earthy truffles, toasted biscuits, butter and vanilla are found here. Heidsieck & Co. Monopole Diamant Bleu is the toast of choice.

Moving up a couple of notes we find the lyric and dramatic baritones. With similar character to the fullest bodied champagnes but a touch more gracefulness. Rich and robust with an earthiness and toasty character that overlay the freshness of ripe fruit, Krug Grand Cuvée shines in the baritone spotlight. On top of that, the impressively styled bottle is guaranteed to place you in your guests’ highest esteem.

At the tenor level ranging from helden to dramatico, we move into those champagnes that are medium-bodied, with spicy notes, floral aromas and a freshness of fruit that can be best described as lush and smooth. These are wines that lend to spontaneity, gaiety and frivolity. For tenors, Louis Roederer Cristal is my pick of the night. Harmonious and firm with a delightful freshness, this wine is considered by many to be the pinnacle of champagnes.

Still in the medium ranges, the contralto and mezzo-sopranos bring that first true hint of feminine grace. Creamy, refined and ultra-sensual, these wines are for the romantic in all of us. And what better wine than one named after our favorite little monk puttering around in his vineyard, Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon. It even comes in a rare rosé version for those who simply must have pink at the table.

As we move up the scale of passion and grace, we find the soubrette, lyric, and dramatic sopranos. Refined, yet racy. Alluring and inspiring. Fresh fruit with citrus, a touch of spicy herbs and a slight nuttiness. Taittinger Comtes de Champagne soars here. One of the finest prestige cuvées on the market.

Up amongst the clouds, with vocal wings outstretched, resides the coloratura. Delicacy, refinement, polish and balance wrapped up in a package that delivers finesse and fury at its best. Light herbal and citrus notes with just a touch of toast. Ruinart Pére & Fils Dom Ruinart is a blanc de blancs prestige cuvée that tops the charts.

Vive le champagne et l’Opéra! Who could ask for a more perfect duet?

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Wine Notes: August – September 1996

Thursday, August 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
August – September 1996

Italian Whites that aren’t so light…

There are some things that we all just know about Italian white wines. They are all really light, dry, and don’t have a lot of flavor. Right? Wrong. Try these and other less familiar wines on for some bold flavors and lots of body.

Fiano de Avellino is often regarded as the most distinguished dry white wine of Italy’s south. Grown in Campania, this wine shows notes of pears, spices and toasted hazelnuts. We feature one of the best, from well known producer Mastroberardino.

Franciacorta, a Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco blend from Lombardia can be anything from light and easy drinking to a complex, wood aged wine. The single vineyard Rampaneto we offer from the Cavalleri family is a delightful example of the latter.

Featured Producer: Josko Gravner

Year in and year out, Josko Gravner produces some of the most complex and long-lived white wines from northeastern Italy. Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, specifically the Collio zone, Gravner makes beautifully handcrafted wines. Lightness of body, purity of fruit and a complexity imparted by his attention to detail in the vinification and aging processes results in wines that are a delight to the tastebuds.

Twenty of his twenty-three acres are planted to white grape varieties. Of his six wines, Felidia currently features three. Ribolla Gialla is a dry, light white with a nose of fresh herbs and white pepper. Approximately 15% of the grapes are fermented and aged in small oak barrels for five months and then blended with the remaining 85% which undergo more typical fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is subtle with a lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for fish dishes with aromatic sauces.

Gravner’s Sauvignon is racy and aristocratic, with a long, elegant finish. Typical of the varietal this wine has a very “green” nose, a touch of red berry fruit, and hints of sage and tomato. Finished with toasty new oak, this wine can stand up to a variety of dishes, from fish to poultry, especially those with a bit of spice.

“Breg” is the Slovenian word for slope or hillside. Gravner recently renamed his proprietary white cuvée Breg to reflect its special nature. A careful blending of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling Italico along with small quantities of wine from vines planted in 1915 – Glera, Pagadebit, Malvasia and Ribolla – produces Gravner’s finest wine. Elegant and light, yet complex enough to age for years, this wine makes a wonderful partner for dishes from simple pastas to robust meats.

Answers to your questions from our Sommelier

– What’s your job?

I’ll admit, I have what I think is one of the most fun jobs around. I try the food so I know what it tastes like. Wine salesmen bring me samples of wine that I ask for or that they want to sell to me. I get to sit around and taste it. Okay, some of the stuff is swill, that’s the downside. But then I get to have fun putting together a list of what a) I like, b) goes with the food, and c) will impress and interest our restaurant’s owners, the food critics, my colleagues, and, most importantly, you.

– Doesn’t it make me look stupid to ask you questions about the wines?

If we could all know everything about everything life would get really, really boring, very, very fast. You have no problem asking your captain what mahi-mahi is and whether it’s been grilled, broiled or fried with a three-herb semolina crust, or just exactly what’s in a mango-cauliflower crustace sauce with kaffir lime tuiles. Right? Even if you know something about wine, you just might not know everything about wine. Maybe we have a different vintage than you’ve tried. Maybe you don’t know what goes with kaffir lime tuiles. Maybe you haven’t a clue, period. The one person who knows more than anyone else about what’s on our winelist is me.

– So what should I ask you?

The opening salvo is simple. “What do you recommend that will go with our dinner, in the range of $…?” We’ll have a little conversation about what you plan to eat. And we’ll narrow it down and decide on something. You can then appear to weigh my answer and make a casual decision.

 

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Storming the Bastille

Sunday, July 14, 19960

19960714

The Second Sunday Supper Circle
Storms the Bastille
A Picnic Style Tour of the French Countryside

The Champagne Region

Spinach Salad with Lardons, Portobello Mushrooms, Shallots and Pinenuts with a Spiced Vinaigrette
Krug Grand Cuvée Champagne

The Alsatian Slopes

Fresh Brook Trout Poached in White Wine with a Horseradish Mayonnaise
1994 Pierre Frick Riesling “Lerchenberg”

The Burgundian North

Minted Gazpacho
1990 Jean Dauvissat Chablis “Vaillons” 1er Cru

The Rhone Valley

Walnut Terrine with Lamb, Pork and Veal
1976 Jasmin Côte-Rôtie

The Atlantic Coast

Tomme de Pyrenees and Valencay Jacquin Cheeses, Roasted Peppers, Jambon de Bayonne
1978 Château Langoa Barton St.-Julien

The Loire River

Oven Roasted Peach and Plum Souffle Cake with Fresh Berry Sauce
1990 Pierre St. Maurille Coteaux du Layon Grains Nobles

I’m sure we didn’t head out and have a picnic style supper, regardless of the titling. All of the dinners took place in my apartment, which in July 1996, would have been a third floor walk-up one bedroom spot in the East Village, in the building next to the Hell’s Angels headquarters for NYC. But nonetheless, we were clearly going for a bit of a casual French feel to things in celebration of Bastille Day.

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Dinner Menus - Second Sunday Supper Circle