Magazine articles

Jamie Taylor

Dan P.Tuesday, October 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 42 – October 2006businessprofile – Jamie Taylor
Serendipity and hard work help when starting a business in a foreign country

Packing up and moving to another city to start a new job is daunting enough for most folk. Some people go a little further. Jamie Taylor packed up and moved to a different hemisphere, 7,000 miles away. He left behind family, friends, and steady work for the gleam of an idea he’d put together with his new long distance boyfriend, someone whom he’d met on vacation a year earlier, and only kept in contact with via internet and phone since. He left behind a happy existence in a stable part of the world for complete unknowns in a country that was known for military coups, economic and political instability, and repeated military conflicts with his home country. [Flux Bar closed during the 2020 pandemic, and as of June 2021, Jamie returned to the UK.]

Some folks might think it was a mid-life crisis, but Jamie doesn’t see it that way. He may have been fulfilled in his longtime job in London as an HIV counselor, but he knew it wasn’t satisfying his long term goals and dreams of having his own business, less stress, and living with a man that he loved. When he met Ilia, a young Russian man who had been living in Buenos Aires for ten years, new things started to seem possible. Within a year he’d wrapped up all the loose ends he could think of, and was on a plane, winging his way to Argentina’s capital, trusting in a combination of fate and determination.

Looking back at things now, a couple of years later, he might have approached everything a bit differently. “I might have come down and spent some more time vacationing and getting to know the city, its ins and outs, and making a circle of friends. I might have talked to people I knew back in London about what it would be like to open my own business. I might even have spent some time checking out the bar scene in Buenos Aires before opening my own. Maybe, most importantly, I might have asked someone just how come no one had opened a bar like the one I imagined.”

Instead, somehow forefront in his mind was the idea that “Anyone can open and run a bar, it’s easy and not very stressful, and after all it’s just mixing drinks.” With those thoughts in mind, he pushed right into the fray. Noting that all the gay bars and clubs in the city seemed to be located out in the touristy or residential areas, he looked for space in the heart of the downtown financial district. Looking back, he remembers, “I thought I’d be able to attract the local and expatriate after-work crowd. None of the other bars and clubs were even open until at least ten at night, and lots of them not until midnight. I figured that gays and lesbians who wanted a drink and a place to hang out would love an early evening venue.”

He soon found a large space with plenty of room for a bar, a lounge area, and even a small dance floor. It was on a busy commercial street. It was also situated down a narrow concrete staircase, in the basement beneath a copy shop. It was close to all the things he’d thought about: the business district, many major tourist hotels and attractions, and it was easy to get to via subway or bus line. The building management didn’t seem to care what he wanted to do with the space, so he rented it, and jumped right into the renovation. On August 4th, 2005, he flung the doors open to the public, and Flux (Marcelo T. de Alvear, 980, www.fluxbar.com.ar) made its debut.

In most cities, opening a bar would prove to be a massive task – between licenses and insurance, various permits from building departments, health departments, and a legion of other bureaucratic entities. Buenos Aires, however, has limited legislation and regulation when it comes to opening a small business, and Taylor recalls, “The only inspectors I ran into were from the building department, who wanted to make sure I had my own public entrance, private garbage collection, and bathrooms. For the most part they stood there, pretty much with their hands out.” With Argentina’s depressed economy at the time, he was able to get up and running for what most business owners, especially bar owners, would think a pittance, 125,000 pesos, or just over $40,000, plus savings to live on until the bar reaches steady profitability, something it’s only just now beginning to achieve.

Gay bars have a notoriously hard time opening in many parts of the world, what with local politics, religious leaders, and often underworld shakedowns. Argentina, a strong Catholic country with a history of governmental, police, and criminal corruption, might have had those same problems, but to his surprise, Taylor found that the “gay” part of the bar was the least of his issues. Argentina’s constitution, written in 1853, has long (at least by letter of the law) guaranteed equality under the law for gays and lesbians. Civil unions have been legal for years [in Buenos Aires]. Gay marriage is a current proposal in the [city] legislature, expected to pass with relatively little opposition some time in 2007.

From the beginning, it’s been a roller-coaster operation. Being new, it immediately attracted attention. Being open at a time of day when no other gay bar was, turned out to be a blessing and a curse. Taylor now says, “There were people who wanted a place to hang out with friends and drink after work, but there weren’t many of them. You know, Buenos Aires’ social culture is such that people often zip home from work and take a nap, like a late siesta, so that they can get up later and go to dinner at ten or eleven., followed by a few hours of clubbing, then a few hours of sleep, and back to work in the morning.” Jamie soon found himself catering more to a small crowd of tourists than locals. That made it hard to develop a regular clientele – the backbone of any bar business.

“I’ll try anything and everything,” he says. “I have art shows with the work of some local artists, both Argentines and ex-pats. We tried Tuesday evening gay tango lessons, Thursday language practice groups, opened up the lounge for meetings of the gay expat community, and now we’re trying late evening DJs on the weekends.” The scheduling is often erratic, as those hosting events change their plans at the last minute – a common occurrence in Buenos Aires.

As part of his plan to attract more customers, he offers a 2 for 1 early happy hour, something that isn’t common in this city. He’s also had to create some interesting specialty drinks, but first, as he points out, “Ilia and I had to learn how to bartend, period. Neither of us had any real previous experience running a bar, and mixing a G&T or pouring a beer for friends back in London wasn’t really enough. He found himself studying bar manuals and cocktail books, and he keeps a couple behind the bar to refer to when he gets stumped by a request. When he found that local liquor distributors only represented a few national and imported brands, he had to spend time searching out sources of different liquors and mixers, often purchased retail at small specialty shops or markets.

What is Jamie’s advice for other gay and lesbian entrepreneurs heading to Buenos Aires? “Have much more money than you think you’ll need! I figured out what my estimated costs would be and then added fifty percent. I wish I’d made it double, or even more. I’m still living on savings and putting everything we earn back into the bar.” He recommends making friends in the community you plan to serve, and finding out what it is that interests them. Get their input on your ideas, listen to their concerns, find out about their lifestyles, and figure out a way to implement your ideas in concert rather than at odds with those things. Otherwise, you might find yourself scrambling to make corrections that could have been easily addressed up-front. Also, find out everything you can about the business you plan to open, especially if it’s a change of career.

While his lack of training and experience in the bar world gave him fresh eyes and few preconceived notions about how to run a bar, it also left him with no practical idea how to go about it. “It was sheer luck that the economy here was ready for any kind of business investment, and that there are really no regulations, or you can easily ignore a lot of them; not that I’d recommend that. A lot of days I wish I’d found out these things before moving across the world.”

Would that have stopped him? “No, I needed a major change in my life. I wanted to be with Ilia, and I wanted an adventure.”

There’s no doubt he’s accomplished all that, in spades.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

Argentina, Interview

Gardelito, El Federal, Unoaked Malbecs, Provoleta

Dan P.Sunday, October 1, 20060

Cuisine & Vins
October 2006, page 48

cuisine insider tips
Argentina for beginners

You’ve probably headed to Buenos Aires with more recommendations for where you can get a good steak and fries than you know what to do with. Amazing as it may seem given the hype, there’s food available here that isn’t just charred red meat.

Anyone who has more than a passing interest in tango knows the name Carlos Gardel.- here, it’s impossible to turn a corner without seeing something related to him. It’s worth taking yourself out to Gardelito, Humboldt 1668, 4776-5333, in Palermo Hollywood. It’s an old style pub decorated with memorabilia from the golden age of tango, along with a smattering of odd household and workshop objects from the same period. The menu is pretty classic porteño style – parrilla (grill) and pastas – but has some creative variations on many of the dishes. It’s also got a short list of inexpensive wines, and not just the usual suspects. Among the more interesting dishes, a chambota, or medley of cured vegetables; plump malfatti pasta stuffed with local cheeses and herbs; earthy raviolones de seso, or large ravioli filled with cheese and cow’s brains; and a melt in your mouth delicious lomo guisado – a sirloin and mushroom stew. The best things about Gardelito are the huge portions of food and that it will hardly put a dent in your wallet.

Up until recently, you could have stayed in the same general area and popped into one of the most creative small venues around, El Federal. But with five years of success, and competition in the neighborhood appearing like mushrooms after a rainstorm, chef Paola Comparatore picked up and moved to a larger venue in Retiro, at San Martin 1015, 4313-1324. The tables are heavy, dark wood blocks. The banquettes are long, backless, leather covered benches. The chairs are covered with hard-cured cowhide – not just leather, these things still have hair on them. The food being turned out of the kitchen is some of the most interesting takes around on local regional cuisine, with rich interplays of sweet sauces and spicy elements to the dishes. Some of our favorites are her repuelgues tehuelches – small Patagonian lamb and mushroom empanadas, her rolled and fried provoleta, and gnocchi flavored with chimichurri spices (garlic, herbs, and chilies) and topped with a chorizo sausage sauce. The food will run you a bit above an average dinner in Buenos Aires, but you’ll get quality a whole lot above that average – and at lunch, there’s a menu ejecutivo that’s a bargain for a three-course meal.

There’s not a concerted effort in Argentina to produce organic wines. Still, I find myself curious when I spot one, especially if it’s in a small wine shop like La Cava de Vittorio, Arenales 2321, in Barrio Norte, 4824-0647, where I know the wines are very carefully selected by folks who know what they’re doing. When the manager highly recommended giving the new organic Malbec a try – at only twelve pesos and change, I couldn’t pass it up. The strangely named Belgrano 10.640 Malbec 2003 comes from the equally oddly named Bodega A – the wine’s name turns out to be the address of the winery in Mendoza. Really quite good, this is a full-bodied, rich, spicy, wine with lots of cherry fruit – and all fruit, no oak, which I tend to appreciate with Malbec.

One of the things I hear most often from wine geek friends is that the new, premium level Malbecs, very concentrated and with lots of time in new oak barrels, don’t taste any different than any other “international style” red wine. That’s one of the reasons I like unoaked or lightly oaked Malbec. From the Salta region, one of my favorites is the Domingo Molina Malbec 2002. What I like most about this wine is its vibrancy, because the winery in Salta only ages 10% of the wine in oak, the rest in stainless steel, giving it a touch of roundness, but emphasizing the purity of the fruit. The wine shows spicy dark fruits like blackberry and boysenberry, with a touch of mace and nutmeg, and a long, tasty finish. The wine will run you around 55-60 pesos in local shops, and it’s well worth spending the extra.

Gooey, melted cheese with a lightly smoky, slightly crispy exterior. The provoleta, an ubiquitous parrilla appetizer takes a thick slab of provolone which the grill man brushes with olive oil, sprinkles with plenty of cracked black pepper and oregano and throws it on a rack over the coals until it’s browned on the surface and all melty and runny inside. There are numerous variations on provoleta, the most common being the simple substitution of different herbs or spices. Some like to chop fresh or grilled tomatoes or red bell peppers atop. Possibly the most interesting of these variations is the provoleta rellena, or stuffed provoleta, where the slab of cheese is slit open like a pocket pita bread and the middle is filled with slices of ham, tomato, and peppers.

In October 2006, I started writing for this Spanish language magazine, covering their English language section for travellers. I wrote for them for about two years. The copy editor, apparently not fluent in English, used to put each paragraph in its own text box on a two column page, in what often seemed to be random order, making the thread of the column difficult to follow. I’ve restored the paragraphs to their original order.

Cuisine & Vins, Magazine articles

Restaurants, Wine

Live from Buenos Aires

Dan P.Saturday, September 2, 20060

Wine & Spirits
Restaurant Report
Fall 2006

Live from Buenos Aires
Dan Perlman looks at the Argentine wine

Walk into virtually any wine shop in the U.S. and find a selection of Argentine wines – wines from the far reaches of South America tend to dominate the “cheap and cheerful” sections for many retailers. It’s hard to find many of the quality wines that are also being produced by many of the same, and other producers. In this sector the lead has been taken by Chilean wineries with strong international and government backing that has led to a conundrum for many a restaurant buyer – it’s far easier to select and access fine wines from the west coast (Chile) of the continent than the east coast (Argentina and Uruguay). Names like Catena, Achával-Ferrer, and Navaro-Correas are easily recognizable to most in the wine trade. We know that even recent media exposure has tended to ignore the top wines of this country. Also, much of the wine at the top level is produced in very limited quantities, making it difficult to have even the opportunity to sample.

Unlike Chile, where the government and the winegrowers’ associations have made a concerted effort at international marketing, Argentina has left things to the individual wineries. The lack of governmental support isn’t surprising, with the economic collapse in late 2000 and early 2001, official funds for projects of that nature are largely non-existent. Still, there is a wide range of wines available, and more and more coming on the market it seems on nearly a weekly basis.

On the retail side it may be a boon to have a sudden influx of inexpensive Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot to offer, especially as those same wines from suppliers now established (Australia, “lesser known” appellations of Europe, even domestic U.S.) have steadily crept up in price. This may even offer some opportunities for “house pours” in many restaurants. Still, most of these wines are “just another Chardonnay.” What Argentina has to offer are its two shining “native” grapes. Not that they’re really native grapes, but they are the varietals that offer Argentines a place for bragging rights.

On the white side is Torrontés, a grape of slightly murky origins, falling into the family of Muscat related varietals. The grape is believed to have been imported from Northern Spain, although this is mostly based on circumstantial evidence. At one time the grape was also one of the “single varietals” of Madeira, and old examples can be found. For whatever reasons, it was not replanted after the fires that destroyed the island’s vineyards a century or so ago. Torrontés is unique in its particular combination of flavors and well worth seeking out for the sommelier that wants to offer something off the beaten path.

Examples from the lines of Crios de Susana Balbo, and Viña de Balbo are perfect summer sippers with crisp, delicate flavors, reminding me very much of Italian style Muscats – very common from Mendoza. On the opposite end fall examples like those from Bodegas Etchart, Bodega Sur, or Don David, that are ripe, rich, and powerful, falling into a similar range and style as many of the examples of Muscat one might see from Alsace, and much more typical of Torrontés from Salta.

The true star of Argentina’s portfolio is Malbec. In Argentina, where it has been grown since the mid to late 1800s, Malbec is planted in vineyards that encompass an area roughly four times that of the Malbec vineyards in France. The Argentine Malbec has developed its own unique flavor profile. While blending is not unusual, single varietal Malbec dominates both the markets and the pride of local winemakers.

In the inexpensive range the wineries are nearly too numerous to list. In the mid-range, my personal favorite is the Malbec of Ricardo Santos. At the higher end it is harder to make a selection – not because of a lack of quality, but again, the lack of marketing drive and support limits the opportunities for many wine directors to taste them. My personal favorite is Domingo Molina. There are also some wonderful blends with varying amounts of Cabernet, Merlot, and/or Syrah from producers Ruca Malen, Rutini, and Achával-Ferrer.

As the Argentine economy continues to recover, it will not be surprising to see Argentina gain ground against the Chilean dominated South American export market. After all, as the fifth largest producer of wine in the world, there’s certainly enough to offer.

Dan Perlman is a trained chef and sommelier who currently resides in Buenos Aires. He is an internationally published food and wine writer best known for the award-winning wine lists at American Renaissance, Felidia, Veritas, AZ, and Pazo.

Magazine articles, Wine & Spirits

Argentina, Wine

Restaurants

Dan P.Sunday, August 6, 20060

Time Out
Buenos Aires for Visitors
August 2006

My contribution to the Restaurants section of this issue was the writeup of half a dozen restaurants. Most of the section is, as the editor puts it, accumulated, and stays the same from issue to issue, so there were about twenty new reviews in this edition. There is soon to be an online site updated far more regularly…

La Boca – Argentinian (traditional)

Don Carlos

Brandsen 854, esq. del Valle Iberlucea, La Boca (4362-2433). 10, 29, 86 bus. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight, Mon-Sat. Main Courses AR$4-8. No credit cards.

Five “P”s – “picadas, pizza, pasta, pescado, parrilla?” is the question with which Don Carlos himself greets every table. Your only option is to choose any or all of the categories – “todo” or “all” is not only the best bet for a rolicking dining experience, but it will bring a big smile to Carlito’s eyes. From that moment on you are in the hands of him and his cook, as high quality homestyle Italian and Argentine food flies out of the kitchen and lands on your table faster than you can finish it off. The parade of small dishes – from pristinely fresh homemade mozzarella to faina to whatever cut of meat comes smoking off the grill – continues until you beg for it to stop, at which point a sixth P – postres will be offered, along with coffee. Sigh and say yes. Your bill gets figured out, more or less based on mutual memory, at some point later on.

Almagro, Once & Villa Crespo – Russian

Ermak

Bülnes 873, entre Humahuaca y Guardia Vieja, Almagro (4866-2300) – Subte D, Medrano/19, 24, 128, 151 bus. Open 7pm-1am Tue-Sun.. Main Courses AR$5-10. No credit cards.

Try opening a small, dozen-seat restaurant on the site of the neighborhood’s favorite pizza and hamburger joint, and offering home-style Russian dishes. You quickly compromise with your neighbors and offer pizza and burgers to the takeout and delivery crowd, and reserve your tables for those who want to try your bushenina, vareniki, pelmeni, stroganof, and the quite possibly the city’s best ensalada rusa, all accompanied by shots of ice cold vodka with lemon and salt. With so few seats a reservation is a necessity, especially as most nights you can count on nearly every seat being taken up by a Russian expat looking for a taste of home. The half dozen young blond, blue-eyed, and impossibly thin staff members seem barely out of their teens, but churn out a steady stream of tasty and authentic fare worthy of the 16th Century Cossack leader they’ve named themselves after.

Belgrano & Colegiales – French

Maat

Sucre 2168 entre Cuba y Arcos, Belgrano (4896-1818) – Subte D, Juramento/44, 63, 133, 151, 152 bus. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat.. Main Courses AR$25-35. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.

If you’re not the sort who’s used to “dining at the club” with your cohorts, Maat may make you feel like Ferris Bueller putting one over on the maitre d’. You know you deserve to be pampered and served in one of their semi-private dining rooms or garden, but just exactly how did they know? Start with a cocktail at the well-stocked bar and then move on to dine on some of the most intensely flavoured, classic French cuisine currently being offered in the city. When you retire to the library to sip on an after dinner drink and peruse the collection of art and food tomes, you’ll just know you should be admitted to this club – and keep that in mind, because down the line, Maat intends to become exactly that, a members-only club. Get there while it’s open to the public, or be ready to sign on the dotted line.

Belgrano & Colegiales – Italian

Don Chicho

Plaza 1411, esq. Zarraga, Colegiales (4556-1463). Subte B, Tronador/21, 76, 87, 93, 127, 140 bus. Open 8pm-midnight Mon; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat; noon-3pm Sun.. Main Courses AR$8-12. No credit cards.

Let your eyes drift past the fading facade and the paint peeling off the walls and rest on the two flour covered work tables just inside the main entrance. Two pasta cooks shuttle back and forth from kitchen to those tables, rolling out, cutting, and hand forming every order of pasta al momento. An array of homemade antipasto lines the dilapidated bar. There’s no menu, and don’t ask the your waitress to recite all 29 items the kitchen offers – take the recommendations off the daily signboard out front, or whatever she recommends as the best of the day. Dig into some of the freshest and best made traditional Italian antipasti and pasta casera in the city, or if you must, sample basic local fare like milanesas. The tables are packed with locals, so expect some heads turning when you walk in the door, and don’t be surprised if more than one dining neighbor questions your origins.

Belgrano & Colegiales – South-east Asian

BuddhaBA

Arribeños 2288, esq. Blanco Encalda, Belgrano (4706-2302). Subte D, Juramento/15, 29, 60, 64, 118. Open noon-3:30pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main Courses AR$10-15. No credit cards.

Not so much fusion as pan-Asian cuisine, with creative and beautifully presented dishes from all over southern and eastern Asia. Look for inspired twists on classics like Vietnamese springrolls filled with the innards of a pressed Vietnamese sandwich – paté, roast pork, and hot peppers; or a Cantonese sweet and sour chicken made with tomato and litchis. Tranquility is the order of the day, and service is quiet and unobtrusive, leaving you to soak in the ambiance, and nibble away at some of the finest Asian food in the city. The setting is beautiful – allow yourself to be tempted to take a pot of tea and some pastries after your meal in the adjacent tea garden. Then wander on upstairs to the constantly changing array of art in the well curated gallery. You may just not want to leave.

Belgrano & Colegiales – Vegan

verdellama

Dorrego 1588 entre T. Alvarez y Córdoba, Colegiales (4778-1889) – Subte B, Dorrego or D, Carranza/Bus 19, 21, 39, 151, 168. Open 8pm-midnight Thur (reservations only).. Set menu AR$30. No credit cards.

Vegetarian cooking is already considered offbeat in the beef capital of the planet, so imagine trying to open a raw food vegan venue. Underground and off the radar is clearly your best bet, and so Chef Diego Castro and his wife Lola launched their home-based, one night a week restaurant (“restaurant a puertas cerradas”), serving up a degustation menu for those who want to remind their bodies that something other than charred meat exists. Creative, innovative, and tasty, each plate is served up with not only a description, but passion and true style. Sure you may walk out of their beautifully appointed home and garden feeling cleansed and healthier already, but your tastebuds will be awake and cheering loudly as well. There’s clearly a demand for Diego’s “cooking” style, and you can count on every seat in the house to be occupied throughout the evening, with folks waiting in the wings for their moment to sit and dine.

In mid-2006, I started writing for Time Out Buenos Aires. With changes in their way of conducting business, I decided to part company with them after my last article and set of reviews in mid-2009.

Magazine articles, Time Out Buenos Aires

Restaurants

The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés

Dan P.Sunday, August 6, 20060

Time Out
Buenos Aires for Visitors
August 2006
Page 51

The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés
Dan Perlman gets under the skins of Argentina’s signature grapes.

TORRONTÉS

What is it?

Torrontés is a white grape that is nearly unique to Argentina. A member of the Muscat family, it shares much of the aromatic punch of all grapes of the lineage.

What does it taste like?

Being a member of the Muscat family, wines from this grape come across as flowery and aromatic. With surprisingly racy acidity, however, this wine is drier, crisper, and brighter than most Muscats, with wonderful spicy apricot flavours and wildflower aromas.

Racy, eh? What do the wine buffs say about it?

Not much. Torrontés is so fresh on the scene that very little has been written or said about it by any of the top critics, other than an occasional tasting note about an individual wine. Torrontés, therefore, is the perfect grape for anyone who wants to wax poetically about wine and sound original at the same time.

Thanks for the tip. So where did Torrontes come from and where’s it grown now?

It’s Torront-és; no self-respecting wine buff would drop the accent. Originally one of the grapes of Madeira, the vineyards there were wiped out during one of the island’s historic volcanic eruptions. The vineyards could have been replanted, but the only source of new vines would have been Argentina, where it had already been transplanted, but it was too far away, and the Torrontés of Madeira was lost to all time. The only significant plantings of this grape are now in Argentina.

Lucky them. So what should I drink it with?

Torrontés makes a great match with virtually any fish or shellfish, and it’s also wonderful with lighter meats like chicken, turkey, and veal. The brightness and acidity make it a perfect foil to cut through cream sauces, or to match up against lightly spicy and/or fruity sauces.

Not to wash down a donor kebab, then. Best bottles?

Among the finest, those of Susana Balbo’s Crios line and the Don David vineyards. Etchart, too, makes both wonderful dry “Privado”, and sweet “Tardio” versions.

Any overrated bottles worth ranting about?

It’s pretty hard to claim anything’s overrated when the most expensive versions of these wines will still give you change back from US$20.

Point taken. One to take home?

Most of the good bottlings of Torrontés are exported as well as being available here, but the two worth sticking in the cellar are the Don David, and the Etchart Tardio dessert wine, both of which are harder to find abroad.

MALBEC

I’ve heard of this one. Tell me more.

Malbec is a medium-weight red grape that has developed a distinctive style over the more than a century that it’s been grown in Argentina.

What fruits and spices can I casually allude to in order to win friends and influence people?

In fruit, definitely something in the plum family, and it can be variable within that – yellow, red, or black plums. Strong notes of violets, especially in the heavier versions of the wine, and generally a touch of warm spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace.

Mace. I’m going to use mace. What do the critics say?

The critics love Malbec – it’s soft, easy to drink, and works well with food. There are only a few that a critic would put up in the upper echelons of collectable wines, but even in its name, it’s easily marketable as a very different, and appealing alternative to the ubiquitous Merlot.

Well of course, I’m not drinking f***cking Merlot. So where does Malbec hail from?

Don’t even mention the word ‘hail’ to wine growers, it stresses them out. Malbec is native to France, where it is the predominant grape in the southern region of Cahors, and is also a minor component in the classic Bordeaux blend. In Argentina it has taken on a softer, more approachable character that is notably different from the French version. But then, it’s had nearly 130 years to evolve here.

So even the grapes are more approachable in Latin America than in France. What should I drink Malbec with?

There’s no question that a medium to full bodied Malbec makes an incredible match with a thick, juicy steak. With soft tannins and lively acidity it just balances perfectly against a rich piece of red meat. On the other hand, there are many lighter styled, and especially the unoaked Malbecs that pair beautifully with poultry and even richer fish, like tuna, salmon, shark, and swordfish.

I’ll bear that in mind for the next time I order shark. Best bottles?

There are so many to choose from, but, to name one in each price level, try Dolium for inexpensive, Ricardo Santos for mid-range, and Yacachuyo (from renowned flying winemaker Michel Rolland) for the pricey end of the spectrum.

I’ll take one of each. Overrated bottles?

Also from Michel Rolland, the Clos de la Siete is not all it’s cracked up to be; and although we like some of the new “cult” wines, like Bodegas Noemia and A Lisa, we don’t think they’re worth the price.

One to stash in the suitcase or drink surreptitiously in the airport departure lounge?

That’s a toughy, because most of the better Malbecs are already exported. However, one that’s quite difficult to find is the original wine from the Yacachuyo region, San Pedro de Yacachuyo.

Best organised wine tastings?

Visitors to Buenos Aires can take part in the grape debate themselves as a number of organisations now offer informal wine tastings in English. We recommend Buenos Vinos (www.buenos-vinos.com) and Terroir (4778-3443, www.terroir.com.ar) which both offer tailor-made, private wine tastings at hotels and residences. Try also the excellent, weekly group tastings held by Buenos Vinos at three separate city locations, each Thursday at 6pm (see website for details).

In mid-2006, I started writing for Time Out Buenos Aires. With changes in their way of conducting business, I decided to part company with them after my last article and set of reviews in mid-2009.

Magazine articles, Time Out Buenos Aires

Argentina, Wine

World Eats – Buenos Aires

Dan P.Wednesday, May 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 39 – May 2006

worldeats – Buenos Aires

With it’s broad avenues, classic European architecture, museums, theater, and arts, Buenos Aires easily deserves its moniker of “the Paris of South America.” Then again, it really deserves to stand on its own. The blend of European and native American tradition is unique in the city of more than 12 million people. While visually it may evoke much of Europe (Evita was filmed using Budapest as a backdrop!), the pace, sights, and sounds are rooted strongly in Latin America.

Restaurants, other than those catering specifically to tourists, tend to open mid to late evening – often not until 9 P.M. The range of cuisine available in Buenos Aires is vast, covering the world of food. This wasn’t true a few years ago, when the parrilla (grill, or steakhouse) or porteña (local style) restaurants were nearly all that you could find. While those certainly still dominate the scene (particularly in the central areas) it is not difficult to find food from around the globe. Locals have become far more adventurous in their dining tastes, and with the amazing exchange rate to the U.S. dollar or Euro, the demands of tourists and ex-pats for a more varied range has created a restaurant boom unlike anything in Buenos Aires since the early 20th century.

For dining well, Buenos Aires is one of the best bargain destinations in the world right now. It is easy to eat a very good meal (the equivalent of a two to three star restaurant) complete with decent wine, for $20 a person. There are many options below that price range in casual neighborhood venues and at many “ethnic” restaurants. It is also possible to splurge and spend double or triple that, but it will take some effort to do so.

ESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL

Nothing is more internationally identified with Buenos Aires than tango. This sexy, sultry dance appears in films, on television, and is close to the heart of any local. If you’re going to spend time here, you need to experience it. The father of tango, in the sense that he brought it to the world, was Carlos Gardel. This eponymous restaurant is located in Once, the home of many tango schools, tango-related shopping, and also the center of inexpensive shopping for the city (think Lower East Side New York). The venue is the size of a theater, and that’s exactly what it is. You can go just for the show, or you can reserve for dinner and a show, which I highly recommend. You arrive between 8:30 and 9:30, earlier is slightly better as you’ll be less rushed to finish dinner before the 10 P.M. curtain time. The food is creative “international” style, and really quite good, especially considering that the half-dozen or so options for entrada, principale, y postre (appetizer, entrée, and dessert), are being served to several hundred people at the same time! The show is a wonderful mix of song and dance, primarily tango, some milonga (the even sexier “dance of the prostitutes”), and stretches for two to three hours. If you make a reservation through your hotel the restaurant even provides a shuttle service to and from (though given how inexpensive cabs are, you’re better off getting here on your own). You will spend a bit more than the average, but still, dinner (house wine included or you can bring your own) and show combined will only run you $60! Esquina Carlos Gardel, Carlos Gardel 3200, Once, 4867-6363. Reservations required. Open 7 days a week for dinner and show. www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

LA FAR+CIA (LA FARMACIA)

For the gay tourist this is a must. Located in San Telmo, Buenos Aires’ antique shopping district, this delightful little restaurant is gay-operated, pretty much gay-staffed, and a large percentage of the clientele is gay as well. The lounge downstairs is comfortable for a drink while the dining room upstairs is casual and nicely decorated. In good weather, there is a beautiful roof deck with a great view of the district. The cuisine is eclectic, creative takes on “porteña” (porteño or -a is what locals call themselves, meaning “port dweller.”) In terms of food, that tends to mean an Italian-influenced mix of classic parrilla grilled dishes plus pastas. La Far+cia also offers some nice vegetarian options. Service is friendly, and for this city, quite efficient. You will also probably get out of here with a full dinner for not much over $10. La Far+cia, Bolivar 898, corner of Estados Unidos, San Telmo, 4300-6151. No reservations. OpenTuesday through Sunday, dinner only. www.lafarmaciarestobar.com.ar

ROQUE

In general when searching for restaurants in any given city, I avoid the center of tourism. For port city San Francisco it’s Fisherman’s Wharf, while in New York it’s the South Street Seaport. Here in Buenos Aires, it’s Puerto Madero, a multi-block stretch of gleaming new residences, hotels, offices, and dozens of restaurants. I don’t avoid these areas because of lack of quality, but because generally, tourism equates to inflated cost. That’s true in Puerto Madero, but nonetheless, it is a neighborhood that is worth walking through, and here and there you can find a true gem. Roque is one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city. It’s quite large, seating well over a hundred people, but it’s extraordinarily comfortable. There’s a nice view of the port and plenty of people watching. The food is a mix of traditional and creative contemporary Italian. The staff are efficient, friendly, and multi-lingual. For visitors who want to relax and be taken care of, and be able to count on finding someone who can converse in English (not as common as you might think in a cosmopolitan city of this size), this is a great choice. It’s a little pricey (about $30 a person) but not outrageously so. Roque, Alicia Moreau de Justo 256, in Puerto Madero, 4315-6343. Reservations recommended at dinner, especially weekends. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. www.loderoque.com.ar

788 FOOD BAR

One of the things I love finding is a restaurant that just wows me from the moment I walk in. It can be a variety of things, and this place seems to have them all: it’s beautifully designed in a modern yet very warm style, and it’s got multiple levels for everything from hanging out at the bar, to dining, to a private dining room, to a lounge. My one criticism: the English translations on the menu could use a lot of work. It’s located in the heart of Recoleta, an area where most tourists tend to spend a lot of time for the museums and galleries, and, of course, the famous Recoleta Cemetery. After laying flowers in front of Evita’s tomb and snapping a dozen or so photos, you’re going to need somewhere nearby to recover your energy. 788 offers some of the most creative, interesting food in the city. It’s not particularly any one cuisine, instead taking elements from a wide range. It may be one of Buenos Aires’ few true “fusion” restaurants. The food is beautifully presented, the service is friendly and professional (not to mention attractive). The pricing is extraordinary for the quality of the food you get here. 788 Food Bar, Areneales 1877, in Recoleta, 4814-4788. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open for breakfast and lunch Monday – Friday, Saturday Brunch, and dinner Monday – Saturday. www.788foodbar.com.ar

MIRANDA

Several local friends had asserted that this parrilla was a must, one or two even claimed it was likely the best parrilla in the city. Atmosphere-wise, it’s certainly the most energetic, exciting steakhouse I’ve visited. The style is modern industrial, with high vaulted ceilings and painted concrete walls. Decor is minimal, tables are large and comfortable, and one entire wall is dominated by an open kitchen. The staff is young, attractive, and multilingual as, for the most part, is the clientele. The quality of the food coming out of the kitchen is quite good. Is it the best steak in the city? No. But it’s certainly well above the norm. There’s a tendency to be a little arty with the plating, but that fits the venue. They’re also very accommodating when it comes to special requests. The desserts are fantastic. The pricing is quite reasonable for the quality. If you’re looking for a steakhouse that isn’t a stodgy, white-tablecloth venue with older, bored waiters, Miranda is, indeed, a must. Miranda, Costa Rica 5602, corner of Fitz Roy, in Palermo, 4771-4255. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

Argentina, Restaurants, Travel

World Eats – Brooklyn

Dan P.Monday, November 3, 20030

Passport Magazine
Issue 19 – November 2003

worldeats – Brooklyn

In the late 1970s, the show Welcome Back Kotter used to open up with a sign that said “Welcome to Brooklyn, the 4th largest city in America”. In 1982, when I first moved to New York (and lived in Brooklyn) Mark-Linn Baker in My Favorite Year refers to Brooklyn as a far away country. More recently, rumors of worthwhile dining venues reached us on the isle of Manhattan, and we ventured back to explore.

To paraphrase Douglas Adams, Brooklyn is big. I mean it’s really big. At 72.5 square miles, with a population of 2.5 million, and divided into numerous neighborhoods, some large enough to be small towns themselves, there’s plenty of room for some good restaurants. Prior to the 1600s, virtually this entire city, a county in itself (Kings County), was marshland and woodland. Over three centuries it was gradually built up and populated, until becoming an official borough of New York City on January 1, 1898.

Since most visitors to New York City, and most Manhattan dwellers, have a somewhat dim view of “the outer boroughs”, I decided not to venture to far from those shores. Picking the neighborhoods that are close by might mean I could actually entice someone to cross the East River and sit down to dine.

The area known as Park Slope remained rural until the 1860s when adjacent Prospect Park was completed. In 1883, with the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge, building took off in this neighborhood, with beautiful brownstone row houses lining the streets. In the 1970s, this area became the new “hotspot” to move to, especially for the gay and lesbian community, a trend that continues to this day.

Our first venue of choice is a small French bistro, Moutarde. Frenchman Arnaud Giberszcajn noted that there was a severe lack of bistros in the neighborhood and opened up this now popular spot in early 2002. Located along the main stretch of Fifth Avenue, Moutarde is a beautifully appointed little bôite. Tile work and carved wood adorn the walls, a floor to ceiling stocked bar dominates the front, and the owners have added delightful touches – like a huge baker’s rack for bread service in the center and an antique cappucino machine in the rear. In fitting with the name, Moutarde specializes in the omnipresent condiment mustard. At Moutarde, however, you won’t find it on a hot dog. It shows up in many guises – in an adorable crudité set on an artist’s palette with each of the divots holding a different style – from sweet honey-mustard to fiery hot wasabi-mustard. Standout dishes include a layered tartare of salmon, tuna, salmon roe, caviar, and mustard infused crème fraîche; sautéed skate in balsamic and caper sauce; and pork chops with apples and cabbage. Our waiter described the tarte tatin as the best he’s ever had outside of France, and we had to agree. Moutarde, 239 Fifth Avenue. Tel: 718-623-3600. N or R train to Union Street/Fourth Avenue stop, walk one block east to Fifth Avenue and one block south along Fifth. Cash, Visa & Mastercard only.

Developed in the mid-1800s after ferry service was established from Manhattan, Boerum Hill is a neighborhood that is contiguous with the downtown Brooklyn area. Originally named after the colonial farm of a local Dutch family, over the last decade this area has become a trendy spot to open avant-garde restaurants. You can find an array of these at Smith Street’s multi-block restaurant row.

There we found Restaurant Saul, overseen by chef/owner Saul Bolton, formerly of the Le Bernardin kitchen. Brick walls, a backlit wooden bar, tasteful floral arrangements and comfortable seating are a big attraction in this fifty seat space. It is also obvious that attention to detail is appreciated here; every menu has a cover with individually drawn sketches, and diners are illumined by subtle, flattering lighting. More importantly, conscientiousness pours over into the dining experience. I was initially drawn here after being told that it had one of the better wine lists in Brooklyn. While not lengthy, it is well thought out and quite fairly priced, as is the menu. Starting with a beet tartare that was everything it should be, dinner proceeded through a range of tasty delights. Favorites were the duck confit with a refreshing bean and vegetable gordita on the side and an arctic char seared to perfection. The lemon tart for dessert was just lemony enough, the cheesecake was unusual but quite good. Restaurant Saul, 140 Smith Street. Tel: 718-935-9844. F train to Bergen Street/Smith Street stop, go out at the Bergen Street end, walk around the corner onto Smith and the restaurant is right there. Cash and major credit cards.

While it was founded in 1927, Williamsburg did not become a residential neighborhood until the opening of the eponymous bridge in 1903. Quickly becoming densely overpopulated by the “working class”, it has always been a somewhat “suspect” area, but the ease of access from Manhattan (first and second subway stops on the 14th street cross-town L), not to mention the bridge, made it one of the first expansion neighborhoods when the East Village became trendy enough to overprice itself. It has also established itself as home to some delightful casual restaurants, such as Fada, on Driggs Avenue.

Visiting on a Monday evening, we found the place packed to the rafters with diners and drinkers alike. With a limited menu, limited wine list, and limited service, one would think to dine here would require a mindset of willingness to accept mediocrity. Luckily, Fada rises above that, and despite those limitations, delivers quality food at a good price. To our surprise, Fada’s escargots in garlic sauce did not consist of half a dozen small specimens to be picked out of the shell, but more than two dozen deliciously garlicky sea dwellers already removed from the shell, ready to be quickly and eagerly devoured. A charcuterie platter was graced by a divine selection of meats. The coq au vin and cassoulet were exactly as the gods of French cuisine intended them. After an inexpensive, but perfectly drinkable bottle of wine, we left quite satisfied for less than only one of us would have spent on the other side of the river. Fada, 530 Driggs Avenue. Tel: 718-388-6607. L train to Bedford Avenue and get out at the Driggs Avenue end, walk north one block to North 8th Street. Cash and major credit cards.

We returned to another section of Park Slope to drop in on Darrin Siegfried’s hot new wine shop, Red, White & Bubbly – a must the next time you’re wandering the “strip” along 5th Avenue. He strongly recommended a visit to Bistro Saint Marks. The chef, Johannes Sanzin, is a David Bouley protégé who struck out on his own a few years ago and has had several semi-successful casual spots in Manhattan. It seems that here in Brooklyn he has found his niche.

Sanzin turns out some of the more creative French-based cuisine I’ve seen in the last few years, and dish after dish was beautifully presented, flavorful, and satisfying. Some favorites included a mushroom salad with herbs, asian pear and walnuts; red snapper with Roquefort sauce; caramelized scallops with tagliatelle and a tomato-coriander sauce; and for dessert a strawberry mascarpone genoise. Bistro Saint Marks also offers some great special evenings, including a four-course tasting menu for a mere $25 on Mondays, a seafood and raw bar on Tuesdays, and a selection of steaks on Wednesdays. Bistro Saint Marks, 76 St. Mark’s Avenue (at 6th Avenue). Tel: 718-857-8600. Q train to 7th Avenue/Flatbush Avenue stop, walk one block north along Flatbush to 6th Avenue, the restaurant is on the little triangle formed by all three streets.

The area known as Fort Greene was named after Revolutionary War general Nathaniel Greene. Home to beautiful brownstones and expansive parks, the neighborhood is probably best known as the home of Pratt Institute and the Brooklyn Academy of Music.

Billing itself as “New York’s only South African restaurant”, Madiba has food that is worthy of a trip across the Atlantic. The decor can only be described as “eclectic” – an odd, unmatched collection of art, bric-a-brac, and vibrant colors. Service is warm, friendly, efficient, and probably crosses a few personal boundaries – but that’s half the fun. Much like the decor, the menu seems to be an unexpected collection of oddities. A platter of bean salad, potato salad, and Greek salad, while delicious, seems strangely out of place among dishes like a “safari platter” of dried fruits, nuts and meats, but still worth a taste. Particularly good choices include an appetizer of chilled curried fish with pumpkin fritters, oxtail stew, and what may be the best barbecued ribs in all of New York City. Don’t mind the claim that they’re basted with “monkey gland” – it’s a traditional sauce for barbecuing that doesn’t involve primates. A butterscotchy Malva Pudding may not have quite brought on the orgasmic delight promised by our waitress, but it was a great finish to a fun meal. Madiba, 195 DeKalb Avenue. Tel: 718-855-9190, 2 or 3 train to Fulton Mall, or Q train to DeKalb/Flatbush, walk east along DeKalb to the restaurant, approximately 8-10 minutes. Cash and major credit cards. www.madibaweb.com

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

NYC, Restaurants

Exploring South Australia

Dan P.Thursday, April 3, 20030

Passport Magazine
Issue 15 – April 2003

GLOBETROTTING – Exploring South Australia

If your idea of an Australian vacation is hanging out at the 24/7 gay bars of Sydney’s Oxford Street then South Australia is not for you. For my money, a vacation means getting away from the hustle and bustle and need to constantly do things, and the wine and hill country of the Clare and Barossa Valleys is a great option. I’m seriously into food, wine, and true relaxation, so I naturally put South Australia on my “must do” list. Exploring wineries, small farms, wildlife parks, and the countryside are just a few of the things that await the intrepid traveler.

I started my vacating by winging my way into Adelaide. Flights from the United States tend to connect through Melbourne or Sydney. You can also arrive by rail from either of those stopovers. The city proper is a square mile of only about 40,000 people, ringed by a manicured parkland. Just across a small river, North Adelaide is half the size and is the center of the main historic district with many beautiful homes and buildings worth exploring. Overall, Adelaide’s suburbs take up 140 square miles, populated by over a million people.

There are many places to stay in Adelaide, from small boutique hotels to modern luxury towers. Two places that exemplify this spectrum are The Embassy, a new luxury apartment tower on the North Terrace (www.pacifichotelscorporation.com.au), and the quirky Fire Station Inn in North Adelaide. The latter is a converted firehouse that rates five stars in most travel guides with huge, well appointed rooms, and, for the ground floor unit, a restored antique fire engine parked in the bedroom (www.adelaideheritage.com/firestation.html). This conjured up some interesting fantasies for me, as I never outgrew wanting to be a fireman.

A day or two to explore this city with its beautiful art museums, lively pub scene, and many fine dining restaurants gets the ball rolling. I spent a morning wandering the Central Market and its many food shops, including “Stall 55” that sells reasonably authentic “bush tucker” (indigenous Australian foods). I also viewed some of the more fascinating indigenous peoples’ exhibits at both the South Australian Museum and the Tandanya Art Gallery. If you’d like a truly personalized tour of the city and its bounty, touch base with Tourabout Adelaide where they can set you up with an individual guide. (www.touraboutadelaide.com.au)

Before long it was time to drop in at the Universal Wine Bar and have a glass or two of the local vino. One of Australia’s most famous chefs works the range at The Grange, a haute cuisine establishment that serves a unique tasting menu of love it or hate it fare. If you’re interested in a modern take on many of the unique ingredients of the Australian outback, drop in for dinner at Red Ochre, a floating restaurant on Torrens Lake, just off the North Terrace.

Perfect timing would have your visit coincide with Adelaide’s famed Feast. This is a gay and lesbian extravaganza of cultural, political and social events that takes place over a month-long period in late October and early November. Whether it’s a discussion group on gender identity, a picnic in the park, an evening of music, or a stunning drag show, everything and everyone is included. (www.feast.org.au)

Before heading out to the countryside, a mandatory stop is the National Wine Centre of Australia which features a fascinating interactive museum dedicated to fermented grape juice and the people who make it. While there, drop in for a glass or two and a bite at de Castella’s, the Centre’s delightful restaurant. In a fun reversal of typical menus, this one lists the wines available by the glass and offers some suggested pairings of dishes that the chef can whip up.

When visiting the wine country you will need to rent a car, and keep in mind that whole driving on the wrong side of the road thing. My introduction to some of Australia’s finest white wines, especially those made from Riesling, begins in Clare Valley. Most wineries here have tasting rooms, and some even have organized tours. I found some of the more fascinating happenings at the smaller venues like Mount Horrock’s, Grosset, and Knappstein, but don’t neglect the bigger wineries where there might be a chance to sample a bigger selection.

There are two absolutely delightful places I recommend for accommodation in Clare Valley. The first, gay owned and operated Thorn Park Country House, is located in the Sevenhill area. Long-time partners David Hay and Michael Speers have put together one of the coolest guest houses at which you’ll ever stay. Beautifully furnished and appointed private rooms are located in a century and half old homestead on 65 acres of rolling hills. Here you can kick back and relax, or take advantage of art and cooking classes offered on site. Deliciously prepared breakfast and dinner are included in the package. (www.thornpark.com.au)

The second place is the gorgeous 19th century Martindale Hall. A perfectly restored and maintained museum home, the rooms are available for rental packages for individuals or small groups. As an active museum, you’ll have to vacate the premises during the day (your belongings safely stowed away), but come evening, dinner is served in formal manor style, and the classic rooms are prepared for sleeping like a nobleman or noblewoman. (www.martindalehall.com)

After enjoying some of the pleasures of Clare Valley, take a short drive over the hills to the Barossa Valley. Here Shiraz is king, and some of Australia’s best examples are available. I wouldn’t dream of missing the tasting rooms at Peter Lehmann, Henschke and Kilikanoon for award winning representatives of the class. Lunch at the famed Bridgewater Mill affords samples of some of the best modern Australian fare in the South. For a Mediterranean-Australian fusion, the Vintner’s Bar & Grill is a great choice.

To arrange an individually planned tour of the region, with a focus on food and wine, contact A Taste of South Australia (www.tastesa.com.au). Whether it’s driving, cycling, hiking or even a private limousine, you can’t beat having people who know the right connections on your team.

If you have the time and feel adventurous, there are other wine regions to explore, including McLaren Vale and the other “Southern Vales“, the Adelaide Hills, Coonawarra and many more. For more information about South Australia visit www.southaustralia.com

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

Australia, GLBT, Restaurants, Travel, Wine

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