Magazine articles

Manhattan’s Hottest New Restaurants

Dan P.Tuesday, September 5, 20000

Q San Francisco
September 2000
Pages 54, 55, 62

Manhattan’s Hottest New Restaurants

In New York restaurants pop up like a jack-in-the-box and close nearly as fast. Some restaurateurs take advantage of the world of trendy, treating their venues practically as day-trades. The glitterati come, see and be seen, and move on – but they come back when the theme, along with the chef and management changes; sometimes it seems they don’t even remember having been there before.

A half-dozen fairly high profile restaurants have opened within the last month. Another half-dozen are slated to open in the next few weeks. I predict three of those will be closed and three will be enroute to closure by the time you read this. Of the others, one, perhaps two, will shine and garner accolades from press and customers alike. That’s the key: the press and the customers need to like the place.

I was sitting with a group of restaurant friends a few nights ago and the question came up, “What restaurants have you been back to?” In the long run the ultimate measure of a restaurant’s quality is repeat customers – people who return time and again because the food is good, the winelist well chosen and varied, service is friendly yet unobtrusive and the ambiance is welcoming and enjoyable.

We came up with three places that all of us have been to repeatedly. The winners of our unofficial, apocryphal, and totally biased survey are: Five Points, AZ, and Fressen. Interestingly, all of our choices are in off-beat locations.

Five Points

Five Points is planted, nearly anonymously, on a cobblestoned block in the lower east side called Great Jones Street. It’s a half a block from the Bowery home to a mix of SRO hotels, half-way houses and off-off-Broadway theater companies and performance spaces.

We love the room. It has the feel of being in a large boathouse. I keep expecting a group of rowers to troop through the room ready to stroke their way along some nearby river. The room is divided by a long, hollow tree trunk, and a stream of water flows from one end to the other. High vaulted ceilings and indirect lighting create a comfortable place to sit and relax.

Chef Mark Meyer’s casual American food is comfort food with class. The kitchen offers wood-oven roasted foods that bring back memories of backyard barbecues and campfires. Admittedly, we never had food like this in the Boy Scouts.

Start with one of Five Points’ specialty cocktails. The cranberry-infused tequila cosmo, the cucumber “sake-tini” and the lemon-mint martini are the stars on my palate. There’s a nice selection of wines by the glass, along with a well-priced winelist with about a hundred choices. In a unique twist, the wines are simply divided by country: France, Italy, USA, Other. Most of the selections are from small, “boutique” producers, many from off-beat locales.

After cocktails order a selection of appetizers for everyone to share.

My personal favorite is the wood-oven roasted shrimp with chickpea crepes, a charred tomato salad and aioli. Other good choices include the grilled Alsatian-style sausage with a truffled-warm potato and red onion salad, and the fire-roasted mussels in white wine and citrus broth that had us mopping up the broth with baskets of bread.

Speaking of bread, Five Points makes a flatbread with mixed herbs and spices that you could make a meal out of all by itself. Among the salad selections, the lobster, mache and fava bean with golden beets and aged sherry vinegar is tough to beat. I usually don’t order pasta from non-Italian chefs, but ravioli of spring peas and morels was too tempting, and too good, to pass up.

For the main courses, buttermilk marinated free range chicken with roasted garlic mashed potatoes is comfort food at its best. My favorite is the baby lamb chops with parmesan-black olive risotto cakes; but I certainly wouldn’t turn down the fire-charred squid stuffed with shrimp, halibut and market vegetables in a roasted tomato vinaigrette.

The menu changes seasonally, so no doubt there will be new things to try the next time we get there, and we will be there again. Five Points, 31 Great Jones St., 212-253-5700

First, the disclosure. I am intimately involved with the creation and operation of AZ, and even I am amazed with the results of a year-long effort on the part of a stellar team of chefs and managers in putting together this new venue. Restaurant and foodie folk are flocking to this roof-top dining room, on a side street on the border of Chelsea, like they’ve been in hibernation for the winter. So what’s up with this new “Asian-Inspired American Cuisine” restaurant?

AZ is not just another attempt to palatize cuisines of the east for the western tastebuds. The approach is, for the most part, very American, with Asian-inspiration in the form of scattered spices, interesting ingredients, and more especially, presentation style. As chef Patricia Yeo says, “I’m an American of Malaysian descent. Anything I make is Asian-Inspired American”.

AZ is big, but it feels intimate because the restaurant is spread over three floors. The ground floor is a dark, midnight blue and scarlet red lounge scribed by iron rails, ultrasuede ottomans and a copper and iron bar that snakes the length of the room. Specialty cocktails that include a smattering of Asian ingredients rule here. The signature Metro AZ blends a creme of wild blackberry, fresh lemon juice and a buddha-hand lemon infused vodka sells as fast as we can make the infusion. Other favorites include a ginger martini called the tinA louiZe (we keep tabs on how many folk get the reference), a twist on the classic dArk and Ztormy using rum that we’ve infused with Chinese five-spices, and our Hawaiian punch for adults, the AZlammer.

Ascend to the rooftop in the glass elevator adjacent to the three-story black slate waterfall and you start to get the feeling you’re somewhere a little different. A retractable glass roof arches over a dining room graced by mahogany tables, blue ultrasuede banquets and flickering oil lamps.

The menu is prix-fixe, with choices from a dozen each of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Favorites among the starters include the grilled gulf prawns with soybean wontons and tomato water; an open-faced cured foie gras and roasted apricot sandwich; and a ginger-lacquered quail with roasted pineapple. Among the main courses the steamed halibut with soy-ginger sauce and Chinese sausage; the grilled lemongrass lobster in coconut-ginger broth and the absolutely heart-stopping double cut pork chop with Armagnac & oolong tea marinated prunes are complete winners.

Frank Lloyd Wright once said that “It is better to be honestly arrogant than hypocritically humble.” My winelist rocks. I had a dream situation – an entire year to choose the 500 plus selection with no limitation on budget. I was also involved in the design of the wine cellar, a beautiful glass and redwood display taking up the front of our second floor (just outside our private party room). AZ, 21 W. 17th St., 212-691-8888

Fressen

It’s the meat-packing district in all its guises. The space used to be a veal processing warehouse, and now it shares the block with a variety of late night casual sex venues and watering holes. Is it a pioneer or a lost soul? Maybe a little of both.

First you have to find it. An unmarked steel door in the middle of a group of warehouses doesn’t give you the clue that you need. If it’s a little later at night there may be a doorman the size of the door waiting. Despite the fear this may strike in the hearts of club-hoppers, he’s friendly, and merely there to greet you and open the door. Inside, prepare for more contrasts.

You find yourself in a bar filled with the latest model wannabees mingling with people who wish they’d made a call for a reservation now hoping to score a table. You, of course, were smarter than that – you have a reservation. Seating isn’t necessarily prompt, so plan on a short wait, but you’ll have your table soon enough and the cocktails are well-mixed, alongside a great selection of wines by the glass from consulting sommelier Geri Banks.

The dining room, or rooms, as one large space is divided in two by a wall, is lined on all sides with slabs of concrete. The industrial look is softened by golden lighting and bits of wood, stained glass and fabric scattered hither, thither and yon. Your table is actually big enough not only to sit at, but to fit everything you might order on.

The menu constantly changes. Constantly. It is short and “market-driven”, i.e., the local greenmarket informs the dishes of the day. Six to eight appetizers and a like number of entrees are prepared. Tomorrow, anywhere from one to a half-dozen of those is likely to be different. This leads to Fressen’s one real flaw. Now and again, you may feel like you’re the guinea pig of the evening.

Nonetheless, virtually everything I’ve eaten at Fressen has fallen somewhere between good and truly outstanding. Even the misses were never complete misses, just a little askew. The service staff are excited about presenting this kaleidoscope of food and are eager to tell you about it. Same goes for the winelist, a small collection of nicely priced, off-beat and regularly changing selections.

You can guarantee yourself a winner by just accepting that someone at your table has to order the Amish chicken in whatever guise it currently exists. The rich flavor of the chicken itself almost leads me to rent a car and drive the couple of hours to Lancaster, PA just to secure one. One visit we had the most amazing scallops with roasted corn salsa. Another we had a roasted beet salad that had us ordering a second round.

Chef Lynn McNeely (can we just say “cute!” and get away with it?) is especially good with fish and shellfish. His light touch with sauces and seasonings lets the fresh, organic ingredients shine through. He is at his best when he goes simple – perhaps the most memorable dish we’ve had was a plate that consisted of a half-head of butter lettuce, some scattered heirloom tomatoes and a light, lemon and cheese vinaigrette that was there more in spirit than in presence. Fressen, 421 W. 13th Street, 212-645-7775

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

NYC, Restaurants, Travel

A Taste of New England

Dan P.Wednesday, July 5, 20000

Q San Francisco
July 2000
Pages 54-55

A Taste of New England

There’s something very romantic about New England. It may be that taciturn Yankee stoicism, much reminiscent of a couple of past boyfriends. It could be the rocky beaches with windswept waves that bring to mind gothic romance novels. Or it could just be that, gosh darn it, I like cranberries.

I’ve never lived there, but I try to wander into little port towns whenever I have a long weekend to get away. I’m not a “P-town” kind of guy, it’s a little too commercial for my tastes, even if it is the hotspot for those of our clan to gather.

I have my favorites. Anytime I just want to get away and feel pampered, I head for Newport, Rhode Island. I can visit one of my favorite wineries (more about that later), and ensconce myself in lodge-style luxury at the Inn at Castle Rock. I can dine on some of the best northeastern fare at the Inn’s acclaimed restaurant.

Portsmouth, New Hampshire is like a first love. The very first time I headed to the northern shores was when I first became a chef. Somewhere during my training I’d heard rumors about some bizarre, wild, innovative chef who’d created a little restaurant called the Blue Strawbery (yes, with one r).

James Haller, who later became a cookbook and food & health author, put out some of the most unusual food this boy had ever seen. Not afraid to mix just about anything he could think of together, and see what happened, night after night he put out one of the country’s earliest, and best, “tasting menus” – before it became all the rage. In the sixteen years he ran the restaurant, he never once repeated a menu. That’s the kind of thing I could aspire to.

Like most of my travels, places become inexorably linked with local foods. While James may have been whipping up roasted lamb in a pumpkin, honey and soy sauce (up to that point, I’d only seen soy sauce in little plastic packets from the Chinese take-out, who knew you could cook with it?), it was local foods throughout the region that most attracted me to return.

Sometimes it’s the simplicity of baked beans, a classic of the Boston area. Johnnycake, a stone-ground cornmeal pancake, hails from Rhode Island. Fried, with plenty of butter, it may not fit the latest diet craze, but in its simplicity, it is simply delicious. What better source of fresh lobster than the coast of Maine. Friends of mine used to maintain a summer home there and ship lobsters down to New York. It’s more fun to drive up there and get them as they come out of the water.

Perhaps the most famous, yet most misunderstood, dish is the clambake. This is not, as one local friend thinks, a platter of clams topped with bacon and Parmesan cheese. Those are baked clams, and despite his insistence, violating multiple kosher laws does not cancel them all out…not that I’m spending my time worrying about them.

A clambake is near impossible for the average city-dweller to make. It doesn’t just involve a big pot with clams, corn, onions, fish and lobster all packed in and steamed over a flame. The steam needs to come from fresh-from-the-water seaweed heated over hot rocks in the bottom, and on top, of all those great ingredients. Preferably, it’s all done over an open fire on the beach.

Many years ago, I had the opportunity to spend a day with Craig Claiborne, the first food critic for the New York Times. He had recently come out in his memoirs and was willing to chat with a budding food writer from a gay magazine. As a still somewhat unseasoned chef, it was an amazing day for me. Craig recently passed on, and I offer the recipe he and I cooked for our lunch that day in tribute and in memory.

Crab & Corn Chowder

4 ears of fresh sweet corn
2 dozen or so new potatoes, washed and cut in half
3 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, chopped fine
4 stalks celery, chopped fine
1 cup clam juice
1 cup water
1 cup half-and-half
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 pound fresh lump crabmeat
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander or parsley

Fill a large pot with enough cold water to cover the potatoes and leave room for the corn. Heat to a boil. Add the corn and let it return to a boil. When it is boiling, cover and turn off the heat. Let it sit for five minutes and remove the corn. Cut the kernels from the cob and set aside. Drain the potatoes and set aside.

Heat the butter in a large saucepan and cook the onions, celery and potatoes until the onions are translucent. Add the clam juice, water, half-and-half, red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the corn and the crabmeat and bring to a simmer for about 8 minutes. The potatoes should be cooked through but not mushy.

Ladle into soup bowls and top with freshly chopped herbs. Serves 4 as a main course soup.

As I noted earlier, one of my favorite wineries is located in Rhode Island. Perhaps it’s more accurate to say that one of my favorite wine people is located there. Susan Samson, affectionately known to many of us in the business as “the hat lady”, is a tireless promoter of things New England, especially local chefs and her own wines. With her husband Earl, who oversees the winemaking, the reputation for quality and affordability of Sakonnet Vineyards wines is widespread.

It is, perhaps, a bit surprising that New England produces such quality wines, but latitude and soil-wise, it is in many ways similar to the vineyards of Germany and northern France. Like Oregon, Washington and Idaho, who knew?

My favorite wine is probably their Gewurztraminer. Crisp, clean, and full of that vibrantly aromatic fruit that the grape is famous for, Sakonnet produces one of the better American examples. Susan and Earl are also fond of using local grapes, and their Vidal Blanc, in both oaked and un-oaked styles are delightful fruity wines, perfect for pairing with a lunch of crab and corn chowder.

The winery also produces a tasty Chardonnay, a wonderfully perfumed Cabernet Franc, and, when it suits them, an amazingly rich red “Claret” blend.

Though I’m always fond of pairing local wines with local foods, I think this soup would be a great match for other fruity, slightly off-dry wines. Some current prime choices from California would be Zaca Mesa Roussanne from Santa Barbara, Wild Horse Malvasia Bianca from Monterey, and the J. Fritz Melon “Shone Farm”. All worth seeking out at your local “bottle shop.”

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

Seafood, Stews and soups, Travel, Wine

A Taste of Hawaii

Dan P.Friday, May 5, 20000

Q San Francisco
May 2000
Pages 54-55

A Taste of Hawaii

There are many things about Hawaii that captures our imagination including: beaches, volcanoes, palm trees and ocean waves, but until recently food was just an afterthought.

Only a decade or so ago, most major restaurants in Hawaii served what chefs thought the tourists would want to eat. Not wanting to offend the sensibilities of the islands’ major source of income, typical “mainland” fare was the order of the day. The thought that the average New York, Iowa or San Francisco bumpkin would want to nibble on local chow was simply not considered.

Luckily for everyone, a few intrepid kitchen maestros decided enough was enough. It was time to share the amazing local produce, seafood, and spices with the inbound masses. Hawaii is fortunate to have the influences of several major world cuisines to draw from. Recipes, techniques, and nuances from Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Spanish and Portuguese cuisines add their flavor to the Polynesian and uniquely Hawaiian ingredients and classic dishes.

Hundreds of different edible fish, many available nowhere else in the world, now show up on dining tables throughout the islands. Some are even finding their way to the restaurant kitchens of major cities throughout the rest of the country. Fruits, vegetables and seaweeds of varieties that some cooks only read about are readily available for serving, garnishing and saucing of plates.

Names like Roy Yamaguchi, Alan Wong, Sam Choy, and Jean-Marie Josselin are popping up on food networks next to the likes of Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. In fact, while he may not be the pinnacle chef of Hawaiian food, Roy Yamaguchi is certainly its pinnacle ambassador, with more than a dozen outposts of his famed restaurant, Roy’s, around the world.

Internet sites devoted to Hawaiian cuisines are easily accessible for any home cook’s browsing pleasure and a quick search of the web turned up a half-dozen books on Hawaiian cuisine published in the last year.

Like much of American regional cooking, modern Hawaiian is a synthesis of the cuisines that come from its immigrant populace. James Michener, the author of the historical novel Hawaii, notes in the introduction to a Hawaiian cookbook that it is near impossible to attend a Hawaiian dinner and not have dishes from at least three different cultures.

Though by no means definitive, it would probably be fairly safe to say that modern Hawaiian cooking tends to be on the sweet side. It is not at all unusual to have sauces that are some form of sweet and sour, or based on sweetened coconut milk, or an Asian style soy, vinegar and sugar marinade. Fruit is often used in dishes. Unfamiliar (at least to us mainland types) produce, like purple Molokai sweet potatoes and poha berries sit side by side with fish like kumu, moano, moi, and wahoo.

With no claim to authenticity on my part, and full license on yours to play with your food, I offer a recipe, in tribute at least, to the new Hawaiian chefs. Influenced, of course, by my own cooking background…

Grilled Shutome with Molokai Hash
Serves 4

4 6-ounce shutome (Pacific swordfish) steaks
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
salt & white pepper
1/4 cups raw macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped
4 molokai (purple sweet potatoes), peeled and cut in 1/4″ dice
4 cloves of garlic, minced
2 green onions, sliced thinly
1 fresh medium-hot pepper, sliced in thin rings
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons corn or canola oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper the swordfish steaks (you can substitute any good steak fish, like tuna or shark), and coat both sides with hoisin sauce. Marinate for two hours.

Heat the oils together over medium heat and add garlic, green onions, pepper rings, and ginger and cook, stirring, until they start to turn golden brown. Add the macadamias and sweet potato dice (you can substitute regular sweet potatoes), turn the heat down low and cook, stirring regularly, until the potatoes are cooked through. Add the soy sauce and sugar and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat.

Grill the swordfish steaks on both sides until cooked through – preferably over an open grill. Kiawe wood (a Hawaiian wood) would be ideal, mesquite is a good substitute. A stove-top grill is the way most of us city-dwellers have to go. Serve with the hash.

Hawaiian Wines

Hawaii has two active wineries. Given the range of climates over the various islands and altitudes, grape growing is not all that difficult. Nonetheless, what is more important to the wine industry in Hawaii is an emphasis on local fruit wines. For those of us who’ve bounced around the country and sampled various fruit wines, we know these can range from insipid to quite good, but can almost always be counted on to be interesting. World-class is not the aim here – but fun drinking is.

In the wine business, Tedeschi Vineyards, located on Maui, is perhaps the more famed of the two. Often joked about amongst wine-folk, the winery’s specialty – Maui Blanc – is legendary as THE wine made from fresh pineapple juice. In business since 1974, Tedeschi produces a range of eight different wines, from grapes to passion fruit to pineapple. A visit to the winery, in upcountry Maui, is a must for the adventurous wine lover. In fact, 180,000 visitors make the trek annually.

Volcano Winery, on the “Big Island”, is nestled between two active volcanoes – Kilauea and Mauna Loa. Claiming distinction as America’s southernmost winery, they produce nearly a dozen different wines. Producing wine since 1986, Volcano, too, is worth the trip. Volcano’s claim to fame are their Symphony wines and their honey wines. The former are made from the Symphony grape – a hybrid between Grenache gris and Muscat of Alexandria. The latter are fermented entirely from local honey – unlike heavy, cloying European honey beverages like mead, these are light, fresh and delicately sweet.

Volcano Winery was able to ship some samples for my review. Symphony Dry is made from the hybrid grape Symphony and was a medium bodied, very aromatic wine and dry wine that reminded me of canned apricots and lychees. It worked well with the swordfish, though probably would be a better match with a less spicy sauce. Passion Chablis is a blend of an unidentified white grape and passion fruit wines, and tasted of, well, passion fruit. Being slightly off-dry it worked beautifully with the spicy sauce on the swordfish. With dessert, preferably something with banana or coconut, the Macadamia Nut Honey Wine was delightfully light, refreshing and tasting of honey and macadamia flowers.

Both wineries have well designed websites that are worth a visit, respectively at www.mauiwine.com and www.volcanowinery.com

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

Fish, Travel, Wine

Beaujolais: Gamay at its Best

Dan P.Monday, May 1, 20000

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
May-June 2000
Pages 80-82

Beaujolais: Gamay at its Best

Twice while I worked for Santé, I was asked to do all the tasting and write-ups of tasting notes, for articles written by other writers, in this case Rob Costantino. I remember it seemed odd both times that the author wasn’t tasting the wines they were referencing in the article, but hey, I got to taste lots of wines.

Reviewer’s Choice

Coudert / 1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes.

Domaine Manoir du Carra / 1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats.

Louis Jadot / 1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes.

BEAUJOLAIS

VALUE

Pierre et Paul Duridilly
1998 Les Grandes Coasses
Upfront tobacco and blackberry aromas; good, long finish. Delightful on its own or with a grilled T-bone steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]

Domaine Madone
1998 Le Perreon
Very forward grapy flavors but slightly green; a trifle hot on the finish. A good, basic “burger” wine. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $96/case]

Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Domaine des Sables d’Or
Raspberries, white pepper and a touch of green stemminess. A simple and basic quaffing wine. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $54/case]

BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES

VALUE

Bouchard Père & Fils
1998 Le Chamville
Sweet cherry fruit, with a touch of cinnamon oil that works well with spicy sausage dishes. [Clicquote, Inc., 212-888-7575, $85/case]

Domaine Manoir du Carra
1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Flower Label
White pepper and wild raspberries with a good amount of depth. Delightful with simple veal dishes. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $42/case]

Jaffelin
1998
Smoked meats, red cherries and a touch of light spice. Perfect with a charcuterie plate. [Rémy Amerique / Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $80/case]

Jean-Claude Boisset
1998
Smooth and velvety, good Swiss milk chocolate, with bright cherry fruit. Great wiht roast chicken or sautéed veal. [Boisset U.S.A., 800-878-1123, $72/case]

Léonard de Saint-Aubin
1998
A touch of grilled meats, with dark Amarene cherries. A nice match with lighter game dishes. [Parliament Import Co., 609-348-3690, $64/case]

Louis Jadot
1998
Yellow plums, nutmeg and a touch of black pepper. Perfect with chicken or other light poultry dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $65/case]

Maison de Lamartine
1998
Simple, grapy, lightly sweet and easily quaffable wine. A nice bar pour with casual bar snack food. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998
Candied cherry fruit with a touch of cinnamon red hots. A tasty choice with a classic spinach and bacon salad. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $82/case]

MODERATE

Ch. de Lavernette
1998
Red plums, fairly hot and just a touch of bubblegum. A simple quaffing wine. Great with appetizers. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $112/case]

Ch. de Lavernette
1998 Beaujolais-Leynes
Dark, rich, chocolate and cherry fruit with incredible depth and spice. A great steak wine. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $144/case]

BEAUJOLAIS CRUS

VALUE

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Chiroubles Flower Label
Slightly hot, with bright raspberry fruit. Delightfully simple. The perfect wine for a grilled chicken Caesar salad. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Morgon Flower Label
Plums, fairly hot, and a bit of cherry eau-de-vie. An interesting choice with a cheese plate. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]

Ch. de Saint-Lager
1998 Brouilly
Red plums, spicy and a touch of floral. Nicely balanced to work with duckling or goose. [David Milligan Selections, Inc., 516-537-7126, $96/case]

Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la PIerre Bleue
Milk chocolate, sour cherries, lightly floral. simple wine that would match quite well with chicken dishes. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $85/case]

MODERATE

Bernard Broyer
1997 Chénas
Smooth, grapy, with notes of lavender and violets. Delightful with light fish and poultry dishes. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]

Bernard Broyer
1998 Juliénas Vieilles Vignes
Very floral, elements of candied cherries and licorice. For lighter dishes, such as fish and seafood. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]

Nicole Chanrion
1998 Côte de Brouilly
Dark cherry fruit and notes of slightly sweet liqueur, quite spicy. Great choice for roasted veal. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $136/case]

Coudert
1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Ch. de La Chaize
1998 Brouilly
Extremely ripe, raisiny fruit with characteristics of fresh mint. Light texture with strong sour cherry flavors and a hint of orange rind. Extremely pleasing from beginning to end. Spicy pasta dishes or pâté. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 707-942-3357, $108/case]

Louis-Claude Desvignes
1998 Morgon Javemière
Soft plum fruit, a bit of tannin, nicely structured to work well with a grilled steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]

Domaine des Grand Cras
1997 Morgon
Blackberry and plum. Hot and spicy, with really wonderful structure. Perfect with game roasts. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $104/case]

Domaine Laurent Dumas et Fils
1998 Fleurie
Blackberries, floral, light smokiness and a touch hot. Definitely a choice for lighter game meats. [Jeroboam Wines, 212-625-2505, $136/case]

Domaine Sparre
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Henri De Villamont
Bittersweet chocolate, light spices and dark cherry fruit. Grilled pork and veal would be a perfect choice. [Admiral Wine Merchants, 800-582-9463, $123/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Fleurie
Light and earthy, with floral notes and wild berry flavors. Lighter game and meats, preferably grilled. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Floral aromas, with milk chocolate and light cherry fruit flavors. A nice choice with lighter poultry. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Brouilly
Sour cherry fruit. Tannic now, needs time. I would plan on this with a duck dinner next year. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $125/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Morgon
Blackberry, lightly floral and white pepper notes. Nicely balanced to go with game fowl. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $122/case]

Ch. de Fuissé
1997 Morgon Charmes
Fizzy, raspberry and blackberry fruit, somewhat hot. An off-bottle but the structure is clearly there. Recommended with lighter game meats. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., 212-355-0700, $108/case]

Jeffelin
1998 Brouilly
Milk chocolate-covered cherries, a bit high in acidity with light tannins. Needs some time, but will partner well with red meats. [Rémy Amerique/Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $112/case]

Louis Jadot
1998 Fleurie Château de Poncié
Geraniums and roses, fairly high acidity, raspberries. Veal and pork dishes are the way to go. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $120/case]

Louis Jadot
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $135/case]

Maison de Lamartine
1997 Côte de Brouilly
Bright cherry fruit, slightly high acidity, light spice. Chicken would be the best partner. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $120/case]

Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Saint-Amour Domaine Touton
Plums, white pepper and a touch of floral notes. Nicely balanced to pair with lamb. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]

Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Fleurie Domaine des Grands Rochaux
Spicy, slightly hot, with dark berry flavors. Grilled sausage is a great match. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998 Brouilly
Quite simple, grape bubblegum flavors and aromas. Basic quaffing wine. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $115/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Milk chocolate, cinnamon and cherry. A wine for simple poultry or pork dishes. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $135/case]

Michel Tête
1998 Juliénas Clos du Fief
Candied violets, light cherry and spice. A nice wine to serve with fish. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]

Domaine Viornery
1998 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Lightly fizzy, spicy, Amarene cherries. Good with pork or veal chops. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]

Domaine Viornery
1998 Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Light fizz, dark cherries and a touch of tannin. A great veal partner. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]

PREMIUM

Guy Breton
1998 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Dark plums, spice, tannic, great concentration. A nice choice with roasted venison. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]

Jean Foillard
1998 Morgon Côte du Py
Spicy, red plums and strong floral aromatics with great structure. Perfect with grilled red meats. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $192/case]

Marcel Lapierre
1998 Morgon
Soft and plummy, toasty oak, light spices, a nice touch of tannin. Needs some time to develop. A great partner with roast pork. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]

Magazine articles, Santé

France, Wine

Oscar hors d’oeuvres

Dan P.Friday, March 3, 20000

Q San Francisco
March 2000
Pages 54-55

Oscar hors d’oeuvres
and the QSF Award for best wines of the year

The idea of the importance of wine to film seems a stretch. But my view is, any excuse to throw a party and drink a little wine is…well, any excuse. There are few films in which wine is of key importance. There is Night of the Comet, which revolves around a large, old bottle of wine, sort of. There is Days of Wine and Roses, which really doesn’t relate to wine at all. In most films, the only wine ever noted is Champagne, but that’s too easy.

As I write this, the time for the Academy Awards approaches. Nominations have been announced, and we all wait with baited breath. For nearly 70 years, someone’s been voting on the best picture, best director, best actor, best…you know the drill…and sending one film after another into the halls of immortal fame. Many of us probably haven’t seen most of them. How many of you have rented a copy of the very first film to win – Wings? How many people who happened to attend the first Oscars had actually seen it?

At least today, we can watch the awards from the comfort of our own living rooms and see clips that somebody thinks are what it’s all about. And don’t forget the costumes – of the recipients, not the people in the films… So, we have all the elements. Film, awards show, wine, costumes…hey kids, let’s put on a party!

First, the setting. Obviously you don’t want to completely redecorate just for one night’s festivities. I suppose you could string up strands of 8mm film around the sofa, and paint a bunch of Ken dolls in gold and pose them around the room. Hire some cute young pool-boy types to paint themselves gold and stand around looking Oscar-ish. I like to let my friends be the decoration. Ask them to come as their favorite film stars or in a fabulous costume that Cher or Sally Fields or Angela Lansbury would wear. Perhaps one, or all of them, or even you, could wrap yourselves in celluloid – or the pool-boys. The possibilities are endless.

Next, the show. You need a television set. Big would be good. You do plan to invite dozens of your absolutely best friends to this soirée, don’t you?

In my view, the important part is always the food and wine. But that’s just me. Regardless, I’m going to inflict this view on you. How about some party snacks? I give you one of my favorite, reasonably easy to make, hors d’oeurves.

Smoked Tomato Cheesecakes

Crust:

3 sticks unsalted butter
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Whip the butter, sugar and salt together in a mixer until light and fluffy. Sift the flour and spices together and mix into the butter mixture. Press out into a pan approximately 12″ by 16″ and 1″ or more deep. Bake at 350°F for 10 minutes, just enough to set the crust.

Filling:

4 8-ounce packages cream cheese
1 tablespoons salt
4 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes (reconstitute in olive oil if dry-packed)
4 eggs
Fresh marjoram

Mix the cream sheese, salt, flour, lemon juice and liquid smoke together till thoroughly blended. Whip in the eggs one at a time. Stir in the tomatoes. Pour filling over the crust. Bake at 450°F for ten minutes, then reduce the heat to 250°F. Continue baking for another 20 minutes and then check. Depending on the exact size of the pan and the depth of the filling, let it cook until lightly browned on top and the filling is solid.

Cool and then cut shapes either by knife or cookie cutter. Decorate each piece with a leaf of fresh marjoram.

And now, my own little awards show. The Oscars for best wines of 1999. All votes are my own and do not reflect the whims of the Academy. These are wines that should be currently available – I didn’t think it fair to include older wines that may be impossible to find. Sample them yourself and cast your own votes.

Best Domestic Wine from a White Grape – Matthew’s Semillon, Yakima Valley, Washington

Best Domestic Wine from a Red Grape – Oliver Caldwell Zinfandel “Aida Vineyard”, Napa, California

Best Foreign Wine from a White Grape – Domaine Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Vin, Alsace, France

Best Foreign Wine from a Red Grape – Roger Belland Santenay Premier Cru “Gravières”, Burgundy, France

Best White Wine Featuring Bubbles – Krug “Grande Cuvée”, Champagne, France

Best Pink Wine Featuring Bubbles – Pommery “Cuvée Louise” Rosé Brut, Champagne, France

Best Red Wine Featuring Bubbles – Peter Rumball Sparkling Shiraz, South Australia

Best Wine Featured as a Dessert – Alois Kracher Trockenbeerenauslese “No. 12”, Burgenland, Austria

Best Packaging for a Wine – Vranken Demoiselle “Cuvée Twenty-One”, Champagne, France

Best Wine – Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe “Cuvée des Generations”, Rhône Valley, France

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

Baking, Sparkling Wines, Wine

A Taste of New Orleans

Dan P.Monday, January 3, 20000

Q San Francisco
January 2000
Pages 54-55

A Taste of New Orleans

When food people talk about great food cities, there are a few places that are always discussed: New York, Paris, Hong Kong, Sydney, and New Orleans. Sure, each of us has other favorite places to eat, but gather a big enough group, and these five cities will be mentioned over and over again. You’d think that, by now, I would have made the effort to get to all of them. How’s two out of five? And you’d think that of any of them, I’d have definitely headed to a place nicknamed “Queen of the South” or the “Big Easy”. Especially when one of the biggest parties in the world is held there – Mardi Gras!

Instead, many moons ago, I found myself working at a little Cajun jazz bar in the “Big Apple”. This experience became the basis of my appreciation for the food of New Orleans. Luckily, over the years, I’ve had the chance to both work with and become friends with a number of people from the far end of the Mississippi River. Owners, chefs, managers, sommeliers, and staff from Antoine’s, Brennan’s, K-Paul’s, Gabrielle’s, Arnaud’s, Commander’s Palace, and Emiril’s have wandered through my restaurants at various times.

New Orleans is also the home of more famous dishes than you can shake a stick at: who hasn’t heard of Oysters Rockefeller, Bananas Foster, Jambalaya, Blackened Redfish (or blackened anything for that matter), Beignets and King Cake; or drinks like the Sazerac or the Hurricane?

CAJUN AND CREOLE

Although this is not the be-all and end-all definition, the rough difference between Cajun and Creole is that between country and city, respectively. Cajuns were originally French Canadians who came to Louisiana, refused to swear loyalty to the crown of England, and were sort of the outsiders of the area. The term “Cajun” is in fact a corruption of the word “Canadian”. The Creole were originally those of European French blood who were born in “the new world”. The word has come to mean those of “mixed blood” over time.

In cooking, however, the general take is that Cajun is based on hearty country flavors. The “Cajun trinity,” as we used to refer to it in cooking school, is a sautéed mix of diced bell peppers, onions and celery. Hot peppers, especially cayennes, are commonly used. Rice is a staple ingredient. Creole cooking, in contrast, comes from a head-on collision and melding of classic French technique with American ingredients. Roux, a slowly cooked amalgam of hot oil or lard and flour, commonly forms the base to many sauces and dishes.

It would be possible to go on for pages about different dishes and ingredients like crayfish, okra, terrapin, filé and oysters, but let’s just get down to some cooking. I make no claims for authenticity, but this is one of my favorite New Orleans style recipes that I’ve come to love making and eating. No one has ever claimed that I didn’t know what I was doing after tasting it, so I’ll just plunge ahead.

JAMBALAYA

6 stalks celery, diced
2 green bell peppers, diced and seeds removed
2 large onions, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup dried thyme leaves
2 tablespoons dried oregano leaves
½ teaspoon cayenne powder
¼ cup olive oil
3 pounds canned whole plum tomatoes
2 dried bay leaves
1 cup diced tasso ham
2 thinly sliced andouille sausages
1 pound shrimp, shells removed
1½-2 pounds chicken wings, separated at joints

Jambalaya is party food, Sunday supper food, having friends over food. This should make enough for, well, it depends how hungry your friends are. Let’s say somewhere around 8 people.

In a large, deep pot, lightly brown the chicken wings, sausages and ham in the olive oil. Remove the meats and set aside. This should render out a bit more fat, you should have at least a half cup of fat in the pan. Add the celery, green peppers and onion and saute until lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, stirring regularly.

Add thyme, oregano, cayenne, bay leaves and tomatoes with their liquid. You can break the tomatoes up a bit by squishing them between your fingers – get involved with your food! Over low to medium heat bring to a simmer. Let simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Put the ham, sausages and chicken back in and continue to cook for another 30 minutes. Keep warm until ready to serve. Just before serving, saute the shrimp in a separate pan till cooked through and add to the jambalaya.

Jambalaya is traditionally served over rice, so cook up your favorite kind. I like to make my rice with chicken stock instead of water since this adds a zesty flavor to the rice. A nice loaf of garlic bread makes a great side to jambalaya as well.

THE WINE LIST

When it comes to matching food with wine, there aren’t any hard and fast rules; but I tend to like to match the spiciness of dishes like jambalaya to a wine with a touch of sweetness to help promote balance. If you want to drink white, I’d go with a very slightly off-dry riesling. My picks at the moment, 1996 Chateau d’Orschwihr Riesling “Rangen”, a grand cru Alsatian wine that should run you around $30; or the 1996 Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Riesling for around $15. For a red, a medium bodied wine like the 1996 Marietta Sonoma County Zinfandel, around $15; or the Topolos “Rossi Ranch” Zinfandel, around $30, should be just about perfect.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

New Orleans, Stews and soups, Travel, Wine

Holiday Spirits

Dan P.Friday, November 5, 19990

Q San Francisco
November 1999
Pages 52-53

Holiday Spirits

“He has given us plenty of merriment, I am sure,’ said Fred,’ and it would be ungrateful not to drink his health. Here is a glass of mulled wine ready to our hand at the moment; and I say, “Uncle Scrooge.”‘ Admittedly, Uncle Scrooge had his own experiences of holiday spirits to deal with. In my mind, his nephew Fred had a much better approach. Holidays have traditionally been times to celebrate with a wide variety of spirits. As children, we waited eagerly for our gaily wrapped packages (in my family no trees were involved, we had a train made out of large foil wrapped cardboard boxes – each car of the train containing the Chanukah gifts for one member of the family).

With just as much anticipation we awaited the annual chance to have just a little bit of rum in our eggnog. Friends down the block got to sample a small taste of that year’s Christmas punch. A few weeks earlier we had fallen over ourselves to get a medicine cup sized glass of port with our thanksgiving pumpkin pie. At New Year’s Eve? Just a taste of delightfully bubbly champagne. Why, for some youngsters, this was more alcohol in a few dozen days than the entire rest of the year put together!

It has been tradition for centuries to serve some form of a punch or flavored wine through the wintery holiday season. That tradition is often lost as we explore our way through wine auction purchases, the latest California cult sampling, or wax philosophically at some single malt scotch. At best, we might find ourselves pulling out a bottle of a particularly favored brandy that we’ve saved for just such a special occasion.

I say it is time to bring back the punch, the grög, the mulled wine, the bishop…

Many a century ago, there was the “punch” – a British colonial drink made from tea, spices, sugar and fruit and spiked with rum. The term came from the Hindustani word pānch, meaning “five”, and tradition has it that a punch should contain the five above listed ingredients. The French came up with their own version: less tea, and brandy substituting for the rum. In fact, until the 1830s, rum was banned in France in order to avoid commercial competition with locally produced brandies. Perhaps the most traditional of the punches is the marquise punch, which I recommend highly.

MARQUISE PUNCH

1 bottle of sauternes
½ cup of sugar
peel of 1 lemon
3 cloves
1 cup brandy or white rum

Heat all the ingredients except the brandy together until a fine foam appears on the surface and it seems just about ready to boil. Stir to make sure all the sugar is dissolved. Pour through a strainer (to remove the peel and cloves) into your warmed punch bowl. Gently warm the brandy in a saucepan and then light. Pour while still flaming into the punch. Do this while your guests are present so that they can “ooh” and “aah” appropriately.

I have no doubt that someone will insist on making grög, that old tradition of the British navy. While perfectly nice, it is a simple warming together of rum, honey, lemon peel and diluted with water in order to stretch the seamen’s rations of rum. Play, experiment, come up with your own version.

Having mentioned it, it is probably incumbent on me to explain the “bishop”. An ancient drink, it is made by heating claret (red Bordeaux) or port with orange peel and cinnamon. Alternate versions use red Rhine wines (a “cardinal”) or white tokay (a “pope”); all basically refer to the color of the drink versus the color of the robes…you get the idea. The most interesting recipe I’ve found for this drink is called the “English Bishop”.

ENGLISH BISHOP

1 bottle of red port (not tawny)
1 orange
1 handful of cloves
¼ cup of brown sugar
1 cup of cognac

Take the orange and stick all the cloves in it so that it is as well studded as a leather boy at the spike… Dip it in a little of the cognac, just enough to wet it thoroughly, then roll it in the brown sugar till well coated. Brown on all sides under a broiler, or held on a skewer over a flame, until the sugar is nicely caramelized. Cut in quarters, drop it in a saucepan with the port, cover tightly and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add half the remaining cognac just before pouring into mugs. Float a tablespoon of cognac on top of each mug, light and serve to “oohs” and “aahs.”

There are probably as many recipes for mulled wines as there are places that get cold. The most unusual I’ve seen comes from Wular Lake in the old British Indian state of Kashmir, a long disputed area between India, Tibet, Pakistan and Afghanistan. It sounds quite odd, and is quite delicious.

MULLED WINE

2 bottles of red burgundy
2 limes, cut in thin slices and seeded
½ banana, sliced
2 cinnamon sticks
12 cloves
6 allspice berries
1 cup dark rum
½ cup brown sugar
1 cup club soda

Tie the slices of fruit together with the spices in a small cheesecloth bag or wrap. Put with the wine in a large pot, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8-9 minutes, but not longer or the banana will get pulpy and cloud the drink. Remove the cheesecloth package and discard. Add the rum and sugar and stir to dissolve. Top off with the club soda and serve immediately while still foaming. Garnish, if you like, with a curl of lime peel.

Without question, if you whip up a truly delightful holiday punch, your friends will beg for your recipes. So what if they normally drink vodka-tonics throughout? It’s the holiday season, and for no other reason we should come together around the punch bowl and try something arguably seasonal and tasty!

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

Cocktails, Spirits, Wine

Chianti: Robust and Reborn

Dan P.Monday, November 1, 19990

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November 1999
Pages 42-44, 91-97

Chianti: Robust and Reborn

I found myself more than a little put off as I read an article by a famed wine writer on the subject of Chianti. In it, he lauded the changes in denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) laws and the winemaking in the region in general. The grist for his praise was the allowance of more Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the Chianti blend, the introduction of new barriques and the elimination of “that Italian character.” “Finally,” he concluded, “Chianti might become a good wine.”

In many ways, I think that the new DOCG regulations are a good thing. Tighter controls on viticulture and vinification practices and attention to quality are all positive steps for this Tuscan region. I’m also all for the freedom of winemakers to choose their own paths and to offer new bottlings of wine for all of us to enjoy. But, as the cliché goes, let’s not throw out the baby with the bathwater.

The adage fits, too. We all remember Chiantis from decades past that were vaguely reminiscent of bathwater. Flooding the market, they served little more purpose than to provide a vehicle for ingesting alcohol. Chianti let us pretend to join the sophisticated world of wine drinking, and it provided wicker-covered fiaschi as candleholders for our apartments. The baby, however, has been, often is and hopefully will continue to be an elegant red wine worthy of its DOCG rating. With flavors of black cherries, black raspberries, wildflowers and smoked meats, the Sangiovese base of good Chianti makes delicious wine. There is certainly a market for the “international” style of red wine, but perhaps those are best left to non-DOCG categories.

What is Chianti?

General Characteristics
A Sangiovese-based red wine from the Tuscan hills surrounding the cities of Florence and Siena, Chianti can contain up to 25 percent of Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Mammolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, depending on the subzone. Flavors are generally those of black cherries, black raspberries, grilled or smoked meats and wildflowers.

Aging
Most Chiantis are made for fairly youthful drinking, within a year of release; however, many are quite age worthy. Some of the best, especially riservas from the Classico and Rufina zones, can age 40+ years.

Recent Vintages
1997 – Excellent vintage, potentially as good or better than 1990.
1996 – A bit more acidity than 1995, but similar in style.
1995 – Deep, well structured, made for the long haul.
1994 – Light and elegant, perfect for current consumption.
1993 – Bold, for-ward-fruit styles, favored for drinking now.
1992 – Simpler, lighter wines, generally past their prime.
1991 – Lighter, more elegant style, most are fading.
1990 – Excellent, long-lasting, big-style wines.
1989 – Good, very forward, many starting to fade.
1988 – Very good, well structured, drinking beautifully.

Tuscany’s Historic Wine
Chianti is a name that practically every restaurant diner recognizes, but how many customers know something about the wine? Part of our job as beverage managers is to inform our guests about wine, without making them feel stupid and without going into deep, technical detail. So here’s the basic scoop on Chianti.

First, it is an area of Tuscany in central Italy. Second, under the appellation system, it is also the name of the wine made in that place. Chianti has enjoyed a long history before the denomination system was established.

Leonardo Frescobaldi of Marchesi de Frescobaldi oversees a vast wine empire, including the prime Chianti Rufina property, Castello di Nipozzano.

In the mid-fourteenth century, the name came to be strongly associated with a specific type of Sangiovese-based wine. In the early 1700s, a Grand Ducal decree first outlined an exacting geographic region – a demarcation that was codified into law in 1932.

Chianti was one of the first Italian wine “successes,” largely due to strict enforcement of regulations by the League of Chianti. Specific blends of grapes were promoted, certain techniques of viticulture and vinification were introduced and a massive promotional campaign was put into play. The British, too, played a strong role; during one of many wars with France, wine drinkers sought an alternative to the then unavailable Bordeaux. Chianti was the drink of choice.

Chianti Classico
While there are many wines that are specifically of the Chianti DOCG, there are just as many or more that come from its subzones. There are eight subzones, each producing somewhat distinctive styles of Chianti. The most famous and largest of them is Chianti Classico, an area with its own separate DOCG that lies between Florence and Siena. The fame is largely due to the organization most of us think of as the Black Rooster or Gallo Nero. This servicemark of the Consorzio Chianti Classico is granted to wines that the consorzio judges to be of proper quality.

Not all Chianti Classico producers submit their wines to the consorzio. The judgement granted has often been controversial, with past accusations that, while the judges may wisely enforce minimum standards, they often unwisely enforce maximums as well. Simply put, some wines have been rejected as being “too immodest” to be Chianti Classico. These nonconforming producers have fought and won changes in the regulations over the last few years.

Classico also has its own unofficial appellation system, further dividing the region into eight communes: San Casiciano Val di Pesa, Greve, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Castellina, Barberino Val d’Elsa, Poggibonsi and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, each claiming differing styles. Historically, this may be true, but the widespread changes to grape growing and winemaking practices have certainly lessened those differences. In general, the further north (toward Florence) the vineyards, the lighter the wines. Many of the most familiar and best Chianti producers come from this zone.

Not all Chianti Classico producers submit their wines to the consorzio… Simply put, some wines have been rejected as being “too immodest…”

Chianti Subzones
Less known, but not lesser in quality, are the other seven subzones. Covering the Tuscan provinces of Arezzo, Firenze, Pisa, Pistoia and Siena are the zones Rufina, Montalbano, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini and the newest, Montespertoli. Each of these makes delightful Chianti; many are as powerful and age worthy as the more well-known Classicos. Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi at Castello di Nipozzano in Rufina heads the list of the many fine producers from these zones.

These regions generally have retained the more traditional blends of grape varieties, choosing to update viticulture and vinification techniques while retaining a classic style. These zones are also less well known, because many producers from these regions have opted to label their wines as Chianti; designating the subzone o the label is not required by law.

The sienese hills lie within the Chianti Colli Senesi zone, whose Chianti production is second only to Chianti Classico.

The Formula
Classically, the Chianti blend is a majority of Saniovese, from 75-90 percent. Indigenous varietals Canaiolo Nero and Colorino make up five to ten percent, and two white grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia, comprise five to ten percent combined (two to five percent for Classico). While these standards remain the official blend throughout the Chianti DOC and seven other subzones, Chianti Classico now allows more latitude in grape choices and percentages, including Cabernet and Merlot, and even allows the wine to be up to 100 percent Sangiovese. Before release, wines must be aged 2-2½ years depending on the subzone, including three months in bottle. Oak maturation is not required. Each of the regions, including Classico and Chianti itself, allows a riserva, requiring an additional year of aging before release.

Innovator and iconoclast Sergio Manetti has dropped Chianti Classico from his label, preferring to use the Vino da Tavola designation and the Monte Vertine estate name only.

Governo, a traditional procedure in Chianti, is a proces of reserving 10-15 percent of early-harvested grapes and allowing them to air-dry before adding them into the already fermented Chianti to induce a second fermentation. A “rigoverno” also is allowed, with a further percentage of grapes used to induce a third fermentation. Most producers employ the method to make their young Chianti sweeter. Governo has become less common, as many producers believe that it lessens a wine’s ability to age. Anecdotal data suggests otherwise, and some producers maintain the practice (e.g., Ruffino’s famed Ducale Oro riserva).

As with much of the landscape of Tuscany, the base soil of Chianti is schistose clay. Depending on subzone and commune, there are various additions of flint, limestone, fossilized marine shells and sand. Sangiovese is a fairly hardy vine and is well adapted to these hard, mineral soils. In my view, the mineral elements add something to the flavor of the final products as well. Generally, the best vineyards contain a flaky marl known as galestro that is easily cracked and crumbled into fragments.

A landmark in the Chianti Classico zone, the abbey at Badia a Coltibuno (Abbey of the Good Harvest) is home to fine Chiantis made by integrating traditional with modern techniques.

Back to the Future
The many changes in the Chianti vineyards and wineries and in the wine laws have raised the standard of this Tuscan classic. It’s only my opinion, but I say let’s keep Chianti traditions that make sense; Sangiovese and small amounts of local grapes; perhaps a bit of Cabernet here and there, but not in large doses; a little governo now and again; and maybe even an occasional fiasco covered in wicker. Chianti doesn’t need to taste as if it came from Napa.

Reviewer’s Choice

Cennatoio / 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva, O’Leandro
Cinnamon, black cherry, dark chocolate fudge, very intense. Possibly the best Chianti tasted. Stunning on its own or with game meats.

Lilliano / 1997 Chianti Classico
Earthy, dark fruit, smoky and spicy, well balanced; long finish. Perfect with grilled meats.

Renzo Masi / 1996 Chianti Rùfina Riserva
Blackberries, dark chocolate, light spice and oak. Perfect with roasted venison or wild boar.

Chianti

VALUE

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997 Cetamura
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Fruity style, with black raspberry and lightly smoked meat flavors. Mildly spiced Mediterranean fare. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $96/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1997
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia & Trebbiano
Black raspberries, pepper and clove and light oak aromas and tastes. A nice match with light pork dishes. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $58/case]

Cecchi / 1997
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 5-10% Trebbiano & Malvasia
Aromas and tastes of cherries, with a note of salami. Perfect as a lunch/sandwich Chianti. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $74/case]

Col d’Orcia / 1996 Gienprone
95% Sangiovese, 5% local grape varieties
Earthy, with bittersweet chocolate and light cherry fruit. A good choice with grilled dishes. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., 212-355-0770, $66/case]

Spalletti / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Aromas and flavors of cherries and slightly smoked meat, with light floral notes. A classic “spaghetti” Chianti. [Kobrand Corporation, 212-490-9300, $80/case]

Straccali / 1997
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia and Trebbiano
Wild cherry cough drops, with light spice. A good house pour candidate. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $60/case]

MODERATE

Cantina di Montalcino / 1995 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Aromas and tastes of mortadella, cherries and spice, with a touch of oak. Very nicely made. Perfect with roasted pork. [Winewave, Inc., 516-433-1121, $102/case]

Gabbiano / 1997
87% Sangiovese, 6% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano, 2% Colorino
Black raspberries, oak, cocoa and floral overtones. Perfect with pork dishes. [Beringer Wine Estates, 707-963-7115, $110/case]

Fattoria di Piazzano / 1996 Rio Camerata
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cigliegiolo and Casentino
Black raspberry, milk chocolate and light spice aromas and flavors. The standout of the basic Chiantis. Great with roasted pork. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $104/case]

Fattoria di Piazzano / 1995 Riserva Rio Camerata
100% Sangiovese
Medium-bodied, with amarene cherries, dark chocolate and cinnamon. Roasted game birds. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Chianti Classico

VALUE

Ottosanti by Briante / 1997
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 2-5% Malvasia and Trebbiano
Earthy and slightly oaky, with dark fruit, spice and bittersweet chocolate. A great choice with game. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $96/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1996
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Well balanced, with black cherry, grilled sausage and light spice aromas and tastes. Perfect with grilled meats. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $79/case]

MODERATE

Banfi / 1995 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Rather tightly wrapped anda bit hot, with some black raspberry fruit showing. Needs time. This will be a superb game wine. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $128/case]

Bucciarelli / 1996
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia
Aromas and flavors of dark cherry, black tea and a touch of salami. Perfect with cured and smoked meats. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $144/case]

Villa Cafaggio / 1997
predominately Sangiovese
Dark chocolate, black cherry and slightly smoky scents and flavors. A choice for lighter red meat dishes. [F&F Fine Wines International, Inc., 201-935-5935, $128/case]

Casavecchia di Puiatti / 1995 Il Sogno
100% Sangiovese
Bright blackberry fruit, mixed spices and lightly oaked; long finish. Red meat dishes. [Vin DiVino, Ltd., 773-334-6700, $140/case]

Castelli del Grevepesa / 1997 Clemente VII
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Black cherry, milk chocolate and light spice. Works nicely with poultry dishes. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $104/case]

Castello d’Albola / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 1% Trebbiano, 1% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of black raspberry soda and fruit, with bright acidity. Spicy seafood dishes. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 707-942-3400, $120/case]

Castello di Brolio / 1996
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of dried fruit, dark cherries and black tea; long finish. Perfect with lighter game. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $144/case]

Castello di Monastero / 1997
85% Sangiovese Grosso, 15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Penetrating nose of ripe black cherry, with vanilla, cocoa and floral notes. Well balanced, good structure, with mostly soft tannins and excellent, ripe cherry-berry fruit, persistent and pleasing finish. Tomato-based pasta dishes. [Vinum International, 707-224-9601, $135/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1995 Riserva
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Black raspberries, pepper and clove, oakey and somewhat light. Venison would be a first choice. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $144/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1997 San Jacopo da Vicchiomaggio
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino
Still young, with bright, black raspberry fruit and spice scents and flavors. Just right for roasted pork. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $129/case]

Dievole / 1996
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Soft, with milk chocolate, pepper and moderate oak. Grilled red meats. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $120/case]

Isole e Olena / 1997
Sangiovese and Canaiolo
Dark cherry fruit and grilled meat, with earthy notes. Venison or boar. [Martin Scott Wines, Ltd. (New York only!), 516-327-0808; In other regions call Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena, Italy, 011-39-55-807-2763, $144/case]

Lilliano / 1997
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Earthy, dark fruit, smoky and spicy, well balanced; long finish. Perfect with grilled meats. [Premium Brands, Inc., 718-263-4094, $104/case]

Nozzole / 1994 Riserva
91% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and Colorino, 2% Trebbiano
Juicy, dark cherry fruit, earthy and nicely balanced. A nice choice with roast beef. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $118/case]

Podere Le Cinciole / 1996 Le Cinciole
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Earthy, with dark chocolate and black cherry scents and tastes. Young, but drinking well. A steak wine. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Querciavalle / 1994
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Black raspberry and light spice, with toasty, yeasty notes. Poultry dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $128/case]

Teuta di Riseccoli / 1995
98% Sangiovese, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon
Light cherry and spice aromas and flavors, simple. A good choice for poultry. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $128/case]

Fattoria di Rodano / 1996
100% Sangiovese
Black cherry soda and a touch of pepperoncino. Young. A great pasta wine. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $132/case]

PRESTIGE

Antinori / 1996 Peppoli
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot
Medium-bodied, with dark chocolate, gravel and clove aromas and flavors. A classic match for osso buco. [Rémy Amerique, 212-399-4200, $180/case]

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Dark raspberry and cherry fruit flavors, with light spice notes. Pasta, with cream or mushroom sauces. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $164/case]

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997 >Roberto Stucchi Signature
100% Sangiovese
Very floral nose. Smooth, dark raspberry and cherry fruit flavors. Pork roast. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $152/case]

Borgo Salcetino / 1996 Salcineto
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo
Black raspberry, spice and fairly tannic; long finish. Needs time. Perfect with game. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $176/case]

Bucciarelli / 1994 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of spearmint, dark cherry, white pepper and a touch of graham. Definitely a lamb choice. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $180/case]

Castellare / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Moderately floral nose. Cherry fruit and spice flavors. Roasted veal chops. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $160/case]

Castello dei Rampolla / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Spicy and very floral, with dark chocolate and a touch of dark cherry fruit. Lighter game dishes. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $288/case]

Castello della Paneretta / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Still young, with black cherry, white pepper and a touch of tannin. Excellent choice for grilled red meats. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $180/case]

Castello di Brolio / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Very ripe and fragrant bery fruit, with clove, toasty oak, leather, tar and chocolate notes. Full-bodied, with lush and round berry fruit, great acidity and black pepper notes; long and lush finish. Rich, fatty roasts of lamb or beef. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $153/case]

Castello di Fonterutoli / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Closed, with spicy, ginger and dark fruit scents and tastes. Great with game meat. [Empson USA, Inc., 703-684-0900, $359/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1994 Riserva Il Picchio
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Black raspberries, salami, light spice and floral elements. Serve with grilled or smoked dishes. [Prestige Wine Imports Corporation, 212-465-1857, $265/case]

Castello di Verrazzano / 1996
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Mammolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Dark cherry, very spicy and well balanced. Will work well with sweet fruit sauces on meats. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $200/case]

Castello di Verrazzano / 1995 Riserva
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Mammolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Very spicy and slightly smoky, with intense raspberry fruit. Braised beef dishes. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $312/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1994 Riserva La Prima
92% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Chocolaty, dark cherry fruit and spicy aromas and flavors; long finish. Lamb is a prime choice. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $290/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1994 Riserva Petri
88% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet, 2% Trebbiano
Floral, with dark cherry fruit and light spice; nice finish. Perfect with game birds.. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $225/case]

Cecchi / 1995 Riserva Villa Cerna
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 5-10% Trebbiano, 2-5% Malvasia
Smoked meat, dark chocolate and black raspberry aromas and flavors; great length. Anything off the grill works here. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $148/case]

Cecchi / 1993 Riserva Messer Pietro di Teuzzo
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Colorino
Graham and honey, with wildflowers, dark cherries and light earthy tones. Perfect with roasted veal chops. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $108/6 bottles]

Cennatoio / 1996
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Rich and full, with black cherry, ginger and bitter chocolate. Just right with game birds. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $180/case]

Cennatoio / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Full and rich, with five spice powder, black cherry and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. An incredible choice with braised beef or game. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $300/case]

Cennatoio / 1995 Riserva O’Leandro
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
FCinnamon, black cherry, dark chocolate fudge, very intense. Possibly the best Chianti tasted. Stunning on its own or with game meats. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $348/case]

Dievole / 1995 Riserva
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Full-bodied, with dark chocolate, juicy cherry fruit and sweet oak. Beautiful with lamb. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $176/case]

Dievole / 194 Novecento
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Dark cherry and “stewed” fruit nose, with vanilla and citrus rind notes. Excellent balance, rich and full-bodied, with lush black cherry fruit and great acidity; long, pleasing finish. Elegant wine for beef tenderloin. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $232/case]

Il Vescovino / 1996 Vigna Piccola
85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, Malvaisa and Colorino
Mature, sweet aromas of black cherry, with citrus rind topnote. Well balanced, medium-bodied and silky, wiht ripe black cherry flavors, a hint of smoke and a pleasing sharpness; good finish, with fruity notes. Spicy Mediterranean fare or grilled meats. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $148/case]

Monsanto / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Well balanced, with aromas and flavors of smoked meat, dark cherries and spices. One of my favorites. Perfect with steak. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $168/case]

Monsanto / 1995 Riserva Il Poggio
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Highly perfumed, wiht dark fruit and great structure. Roast shoulder of veal works here. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $345/case]

Podere Il Palazzino / 1995 Grosso Sanese
100% Sangiovese
Complex nose, with mature black cherry, clove, chocolate and cedar aromas. Outstanding balance and finesse, with rich, ripe berry flavors on a mantle of new oak; long, silky finish. A wine in harmony. Beef tenderloin or lamb. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $280/case]

Podere la Cappella / 1994 Riserva Querciolo
100% Sangiovese
Well balanced, with grilled meat and cherry aromas and tastes. Perfect with steaks. [Selected Estates of Europe, 914-698-7202, $170/case]

Podere Le Cinciole / 1995 Riserva Valle del Pozzo
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Aromas and flavors of black raspberries and spice; great length and finish. Roasted pork would be a first choice. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $196/case]

Poggio dei Poggi / 1995 Le Bolle
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Chocolate, cherries and a touch of mint. Quite well made. Delightful with lamb. [Fedway Imports Co., 516-74-6850, $160/case]

Poggio dei Poggi / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Black raspberry jam, toast, yeast and bright acidity. Just right with roasted pork. [Fedway Imports Co., 516-74-6850, $168/case]

Querciavalle / 1993 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Milk chocolate, red cherries and light spice, with moderate oak. Veal would be a great match. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $192/case]

Rocca delle Macie / 1995 Riserva Fizzano
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Bright raspberry fruit, with lots of earthy tones, light spice and herbal touches. Perfect with game birds. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $200/case]

Rocca di Castagnoli / 1996
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo
Pleasing, ripe black cherry nose, with floral, spice and clove notes. Medium-bodied and well made, with silky black cherry flavors; long finish. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $160/case]

Rocca di Montegrossi / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Big and bold, with black cherry, dark chocolate, spice and floral scents and flavors. Game meats. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $148/case]

Fattoria di Rodano / 1995 Riserva Viacosta
100% Sangiovese
Very young, tannic and closed, with dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate and pepper aromas and flavors. An excellent choice for a roast. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $216/case]

Ruffino / 1995 Riserva Ducale
100% Sangiovese
Deep, dark cherry aroma, with clove, floral and smoky bacon notes. Medium-bodied, with lots of dark, almost sweet, fruit flavors balanced by acidity; hot finish, with a black pepper note. Grilled steaks. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $162/case]

Ruffino / 1993 Riserva Ducale, Gold Label
100% Sangiovese
Beautiful nose of pure, ripe black cherry, with some leather, citrus and floral notes. Medium-bodied, wiht black cherry/raspberry flavors and chocolate, citrus rind notes; sweet fruit and zippy acidity in the finish. A crowd pleaser. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $333/case]

Ruffino / 1996 Santedame
100% Sangiovese
Fragrant, with ripe black cherry and malted chocolate aromas. Medium-bodied, soft and round black cherry flavors and a good crispness; pleasant finish. Easy drinking. Tomato-based dishes or spicy vegetarian fare. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $126/case]

San Leonino / 1995 Monsenese
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered cherries in liqueur and spice, with soft tannins. Perfect with roasted pork. [Wilson Daniels, Ltd., 707-963-9661, $180/6 bottles]

Fattoria di Vignamaggio / 1995 Riserva Monna Lisa
100% Sangiovese
Classic style, light, elegant and well balanced, with black cherries. Great with mushroom dishes. [Parliament Wine, 609-348-1100, $200/case]

Chianti Rufina

VALUE

Renzo Masi / 1997
92% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Lovely, clean and fragrant nose of black cherry fruit. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, ripe, sour cherry flavors and good balance between fruit and acid; modest and clean finish. Simple, direct and very pleasant. Tomato-based pasta dishes. [Premier Wine Merchants/Rémy Amerique, Inc., 212-399-4200, $72/case]

Renzo Masi / 1996 Riserva
93% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Blackberries, dark chocolate, light spice and oak. Perfect with roasted venison or wild boar. [Premier Wine Merchants/Rémy Amerique, Inc., 212-399-4200, $80/case]

MODERATE

Colognole / 1995
95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino
Well balanced, light and floral, wiht black cherry fruit. Excellent choice for veal. [Vin DiVino, Ltd., 774-334-6700, $114/case]

Spalletti / 1993 Riserva Poggio Reale
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Earthy, black pepper, leather and dark fruit scents and tastes. Any roasted game. [Kobrand Corp., 212-40-9300, $106/case]

PRESTIGE

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi / 1996 Riserva Montesodi
100% Sangiovese
Elegant and spicy, with amarene cherry; long finish. Always a favorite. Venison or lamb is perfect. [Paterno Imports, 847-604-8900, $212/6 bottles]

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi / 1996 Riserva Nipozzano
90% Sangiovese, 10% minor varieties
Well balanced, with dark chocolate, black cherries and gravelly aromas and flavors. One of the “greats.” Perfect with lamb. [Paterno Imports, 847-604-8900, $180/case]

Other Chianti Zones

VALUE

Cantina dell’Aretino / 1997 Chianti Colli Aretini Vasari
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia, 5% Trebbiano, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Earthy, graham, black raspberry and cocoa flavors and aromas. Poultry or pork. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4050, $88/case]

Tenuta di Capezzana / 1996 Chianti Montalbano
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% other varieties
Bright, black raspberry fruit, light spice and yeasty, with higher acidity. Perfect with poultry and vegetable dishes. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $93/case]

Falchini / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi Titolato Colombaia
85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and other varieties
Well balanced and lightly oaked, with salami and black raspberries. A niche choice with veal. [Bedford International, 914-833-2725, $84/case]

Geografico / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Nicely balanced and fruity, with fresh cherries and a touch of oak. A perfect fish Chianti. [Matt Brothers, 212-587-8147, $80/case]

Fattoria di Luicgnano / 1997 Chianti Colli Fiorentini
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Trebbiano
Nicely structured, with cherry, milk chocolate, light spice and oak aromas and flavors. Works well with veal dishes. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]

San Luigi / 1995 Chianti Colli Senesi
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Earthy and highly perfumed, with raspberries; slightly acidic finish. Great choice with poultry. [MPM Wine Imports, 212-989-8046, $96/case]

Fattoria Sovestro / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi San Domenico
75% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo
Good depth and nicely balanced, with moderate to heavy oak, black cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Lighter pork dishes. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $96/case]

MODERATE

Poggio Salvi / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, Colorino, Merlot and Malvasia
Full-bodied, with soft tannins and aromas and flavors of green olives, dark cherries and a touch of mortadella. For a Senesi, this is a great choice for roasts. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $114/case]

Vagnoni / 1996 Chianti Colli Senesi
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Very well balanced, with juicy black cherry fruit, cocoa and spice. Excellent, a favorite. Pork dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $100/case]

Vagnoni / 1995 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Trebbiano
Young but balanced, with rich, bitter chocolate, black cherries and spice. Lamb dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $112/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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