Magazine articles

Food for Thought

Sunday, September 5, 19990

Q San Francisco
September 1999
Pages 52-53

Food for Thought

Inventor Nikola Tesla subsisted a good portion of his adult life on milk and Ritz crackers, served in multiples of the number three. He basically invented “AC” electrical current. He tried to invent a way to transmit it through the air so we wouldn’t have to plug things in. He was terrified of pearl earrings.

Noted inventor Oliver Heaviside, who essentially created the technology for long distance telephone circuits, lived primarily on milk and potatoes. Occasionally he helped himself to a cauliflower as a treat. He was a teetotaler who believed that he could get alcohol poisoning by eating grapes. His mathematics were so advanced that many of his formulae are still considered advanced today. He painted his nails cherry pink on a daily basis and used large granite blocks as furniture.

Among his many literary accomplishments, Samuel Johnson could include the Dictionary of the English Language. Written in the late eighteenth century, it is still considered one of the finest reference works on the subject, replete with quotes and examples instead of simple definitions. Rancid rabbit meat and meat pies with rancid butter sent him into a feeding frenzy. Among his quirks, he wouldn’t walk through a doorway, instead he jumped through from several feet away.

Though not well known outside the scientific community, chemist and mineralogist Richard Kirwan was a pioneer in multiple fields. He published numerous important books on chemistry, mineralogy, geology, and meteorology, some of which remain standards to this day. His entire diet consisted of eating ham and milk. Terrified, however, of being seen swallowing, he would leave the dinner table to do so, and then return to his guests. An obsessive hatred of flies led him to actually pay neighbors to bring him dead ones.

geniusExcessively shy, Henry Cavendish, physicist and chemist, wouldn’t let people look at him while talking. He was a famed experimenter, and his accomplishment which most affects our daily lives was the perfection of the mercury thermometer. He lived on lamb and nothing but. His clothes consisted of a rumpled old purple suit and triangular hat and he was so mortified to be in sight of women that he had a second staircase built in his house just to avoid his housekeeper.

Geoffrey Pyke, a sort of renaissance man-inventor, is, let’s face it, not a name that we are all familiar with. He controlled one-third of the world’s tin supply, was a brilliant military strategist, a major charity fund-raiser, and created the first school with a “jungle gym”. Much of his adult diet was limited to herring and crackers. He hated socks.

Before anyone panics and thinks I’m going to try to concoct a recipe from these oddities, relax. I was asked to delve into the idea of “brain food”, i.e., do diet and deep thought correlate. If the above members of the genius circle are any indication, we’re in deep trouble. There are a lot of modern-day nutrition experts out there who are going to have to rethink the value of nutrition on the brain.

In general I am of the view that a good dinner should promote conversation, stimulate activity and create an atmosphere of fun. Now and again, however, it is worth sitting down to a plate and glass that cause one to pause and consider life, the universe, and everything that matters (and has matter). For me, that requires a steak, medium rare, perfectly seared, perhaps crusted with some spices…

Pan-Seared Deep Thought Steak

2 8-12 oz. steaks (I’m fond of porterhouse)
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon whole allspice berries
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon flour
1/4 cup Armagnac or other brandy
1/4 cup heavy cream

Basically, this is my take on a steak au poivre. You’re going to need some sort of spice grinder, coffee bean grinder, blender, whatever. Or you’ll have to use ground spices, but it just isn’t the same. Crush the pepper, allspice and salt together – they should remain somewhat coarse. Rub the steaks on both sides with the mixture and let them sit for twenty minutes.

Heat a large cast iron pan till very hot and then toss in the steaks. Let them brown on the first side, then flip them and brown the other side. Cook until done to your preference. Remove the steaks and set on a plate to rest for a few moments.

Sprinkle the flour into the pan, still over the heat, and stir rapidly, scraping the meat drippings together with the flour until the flour is lightly browned. Take the pan away from the heat if you have an open flame. Pour in the cognac, return to the heat and let it warm in the pan.

You can either light it by slightly tilting the pan to catch a little bit of the flame from the stove, or use a match.

When the flame has died down, stir quickly to incorporate all ingredients. Add the cream and stir until thickened. Pour over the steaks and serve. You can pretty much directly scale this recipe up for more people if you wish, you just might need more than one pan.

Cabernet franc is the under-appreciated ancient parent of the more well-known Cabernet sauvignon. Personally, I prefer it. It has more “wild” or “sauvage” notes, darker fruit, and spicier tones. In my view, some of the world’s greatest reds come from this grape.

Starting in California, because, well, why not, check out the Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc “1er Etage”. This is Fritz Maytag’s winery – the man’s into everything these days – washing machines, blue cheese, gin, rye, and…Cabernet franc. Staying domestic, but crossing the continent, the eastern seaboard offers Millbrook Cabernet Franc Reserve and the Macari Vineyards Cabernet Franc. Joe Macari, at the latter, organically farms too!

On the opposite side of the Atlantic the offerings are almost too many to choose from. The hotbeds of cab franc growing are the Loire Valley, parts of Bordeaux, and northern Italy. From the first, my current pick is the Château de Fesles Anjou “Vieilles Vignes”. In Bordeaux, if it’s in your budget, a bottle of Château Cheval-Blanc St. Emilion, if your credit card would melt like mine, a more than acceptable alternative is Château Figeac St. Emilion. Northern Italy offers my absolutely favorite cab franc, Quintarelli Alzero – it costs nearly as much as just flying to northern Italy, but it’s worth it.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Seafood & Wine: The Perfect Combination

Monday, July 5, 19990

Q San Francisco
July 1999
Pages 54-55

Seafood & Wine: The Perfect Combination

seafoodwineWhen I was a trifle younger, during my early days at college, I maintained this fantasy that I would be a marine biologist – the next Jacques Cousteau – traipsing around the world on my boat (the Calypso) and making documentary films about wet guys in speedos who just happened to be surrounded by colorful, tasty fish. Unfortunately, I soon learned that marine biologists tend to be far more interested in how fish dine than in how we dine on fish. While the other students were busy fishing for research grants, I was busy fishing for lunch.

This love of fish and shellfish have had a profound influence on my culinary life. I could never be completely vegetarian – never again to flake apart a perfectly roasted sea bass gives me more nightmares than a visit to a cattle feedlot. I also could never keep kosher – the thought of giving up a roasted lobster with drawn butter negates all the points I could earn giving up roast suckling pig. I can’t even consider what it would do to my psyche to pop my next bottle of riesling without a dozen raw oysters at the ready.

England without fish and chips. France without sole meuniere and bouillabaisse. Spain without paella or mariscada. Italy without baccala. All of latin America without ceviche. The U.S. without Mrs. Paul’s. It just won’t do. So there you have it. We’re stuck with seafood. There’s really nothing we can do about it. So tuck that lobster bib in and get your plates ready.

I started going through my menus from the last year to try and pick something to present here, but I quickly became overwhelmed by the choices before me. Lobster souffle with blood orange-wasabi hollandaise; warm sea scallops with heart of palm and white truffle oil; pan-seared butterfish with daikon pudding and mentaiko sauce; pancetta wrapped salmon and tuna roll; salmon, eggplant & sweet basil lasagna; flounder with roasted corn and coconut-lime dressing; cured swordfish with tapenade; red-cooked red snapper with jicama, bamboo & oyster mushrooms; blue-cooked mackeral with root vegetables and tomato-bacon dressing; roasted tuna with peach scales & matsutake ragout; sesame fried soft-shell crabs & grilled spring onions. Where could I even begin?

In anticipation of the many days for love, relaxtion and feasting that this season provides, I decided on a perfect little summer dish.

Salad of Roasted Lobster, Mango, Oscetra Caviar and Cauliflower Cream

4 live lobsters, 1-1½ pounds each
2 mangoes, peeled and diced
1-2 ounces of oscetra caviar
1 small head of cauliflower or one 8 ounce package frozen
1 lime
1 cup of heavy cream
salt
white pepper
mixed edible flowers for garnish

You want your lobster as fresh as possible, so I recommend obtaining them live. Line them up on a sheet pan, put the pan in the oven, turn it on, to 400°F, go outside and have a cocktail to steady your nerves. Roast till done – about 20-25 minutes. They’ll be bright red, and they’ll be cooked.

Let them cool. Remove the tails and claws from the shells, as intact as possible. If any of the lobsters have coral or tamale (the red and green stuff in the main body, respectively, eggs and liver), reserve these to add to the sauce.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. If using a fresh cauliflower, break apart into florets. Boil till tender. Take the rind of the lime (just the green, scrape off as much of the white pith as possible) and chop it finely in a food processor. Add the cauliflower florets, and, if there was any, the coral and tamale from the lobsters. Puree. Add the cream a little at a time till you have a consistency similar to mayonnaise. Season to your personal taste with salt, white pepper and approximately 1 teaspoon of the juice from the lime.

Artfully, and now is the time to bring all those hours of watching Martha to bear, arrange the lobster tails (I like to slice it in half inch slices and line them up) and claws on the plate, one lobster per person. Pour sauce, again with all your creative flair, in some pattern on the plate. Scatter the mango dice and flowers here and there. Top with spoonfuls of the caviar. Have another cocktail for your efforts. Eat. Serves four.

Choosing the Right Wine

White wine with fish. Right? Says who? Not that, in general, you’d go wrong with such a match, but let’s face it, whomever first propounded this rule did it just to make it easier to sell white wine. There’s no earthly reason that fish, shellfish, and red wine can’t be perfect bedfellows. Some of the most fish-rich regions of the world have incredible red wines that work perfectly with their local marine cuisine. Sure you might not want a dover sole in lemon butter with a bottle of youthful Côte Rôtie, but you might just want a roasted sea bass bayaldi.

A perfect pairing with the roasted lobster salad is a pinot noir based sparkling wine. My two favorites to serve with this dish are Argyle’s Cuvee Limited Rosé and Schug’s Rouge de Noir, respectively from Oregon and California.

Pinot noir is undoubtedly one of the most fish-friendly reds. Some recent standouts: Whisson Lake Pinot Noir from South Australia, Alain Gueneau Sancerre Rouge from the Loire Valley, and Domaine Saint-Martin Marsanny “Finottes” from Burgundy. Lighter, more elegant styled zinfandels are also a great match for many fish dishes, especially those with spicy accompaniments. Bald Mountain, Rabbit Ridge and Marietta Cellars have some truly wonderful offerings that work brilliantly with seafood.

A few other random choices that I’ve thought paired beautifully with my latest marine biology projects… Paul Bernard Fleurie, a cru Beaujolais, based on the gamay grape; Castel de Paolis “I Quattro Mori”, a blend of syrah, merlot, cabernet and petite verdot; Reignac “Cuvée Spéciale” from Bordeaux, a cabernet based blend; Vega Sindoa “El Chaparral”, an old-vine grenache from Navarra in Spain; any of Bava’s Barbera d’Alba selections; and an unusual, but absolutely delicious wine from California, Terre Rouge Mourvedre.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Putting It All Together

Thursday, April 1, 19990

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
April/May 1999
Page 59
Putting It All Together

The Veritas team, back row from left, Sommelier David Singer, Sommelier Ben Breen, Owner Gino Diaferia, front row from left, Wine Director Dan Perlman, General Mananger Ron Lybeck

The Veritas team, back row from left, Sommelier David Singer, Sommelier Ben Breen, Owner Gino Diaferia, front row from left, Wine Director Dan Perlman, General Mananger Ron Lybeck

The phone rings early. The voice on the line says, “X told us to call you. We’re opening a restaurant. We have a private collection of 70,000 bottles of wine to create a reserve list, but if you want to add to it, you can buy what you think you need. We’re going to do low markups to attract people who are into wine. The chef is really talented. Even though it’s a 65-seat restaurant, you’re going to have two assistant sommeliers. We’re opening in four weeks. Interested?”

I’ve just finished my first pot of coffee. The caffeine hasn’t quite kicked in. I’m highly susceptible to both flattery and intrigue. At least I can go talk to these guys. It’s not as if I’m committing to anything… Yeah, sure.

I go chat. Two weeks later, I’m at 20th Street in Manhattan, sitting in the basement of a construction site that will become Veritas, wondering just where I’m going to put 1,500 selections of wine. I have room for 500 – if I squeeze.

Taking Stock

Reality can bring tears to your eyes. There are personalities involved – four owners, three of whom are offering their personal wine collections for me to cull through. What complicates matters is that each of them has their own idea about what should be on the list. One partner hands over his entire collection. A second sends a list of what he is contributing to the restaurant. Partner number three knows what he has – it just isn’t written down anywhere. I make a trip to his cellar, and we comb through his collection.

I end up with over 1,200 selections of wine. They are heavily concentrated in “trophy” wines – top-growth Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône, California cult Cabs, Barolo, scattered selections from Spain (a large vertical of Unico) and Australia (ditto for Grange). There are few whites, lots of big bottles (25 percent is in magnum or larger) and virtually no half-bottles.

My two cellar rooms are both temperature controlled. I create “red” and “white” roooms, with double-depth, single-bottle racking. Initially, my reaction is one of dismay; how am I going to create bins?, there’s a lot of wasted space, etc. When I stop to think about how the wines are coming in, however, I realize that this configuration is necessary. Traditional bins would end up with five or six different wines piled on top of each other. On the other hand, because of the “selection” process, I can’t preassign bin numbers and spacing to wines. I end up creating bin number categories (e.g., 2000-2200 for red Bordeaux) and then assigning the bin numbers as the wines arrive.

Collaboration

There are two assistants to hire, one capable of creating the bar that will carry eclectic and interesting selections, not “well” brands and not even standard “call” brands. Also, I want someone who can manage a small, constantly changing, wine-by-the-glass program. We interview and hire, and we put one of the assistants, David Singer, on payroll and get him working. Between the two of us and General Manager Ron Lybeck, also a sommelier, we hammer out the concept, and Singer starts making selections. My second assistant, Ben Breen, joins us. He not only will handle floor service, but also much of the restaurant’s computerization, including the redesign of the preliminary web site where our wine list and menus are posted.

Lybeck and I come up with the concept of a “market” list. We approach it like a chef going shopping, finding ingredients and then creating a menu. I’m not going to worry about filling holes in this list. I look for wines that I like, that I can get at good values and offer at prices that beat the competition. We collect wine lists from all over the city and start comparing prices. If someone bought something years ago, we may not be able to beat the price. Instead, we go for giving the best value that we can.

There’s the menu to consider. Executive Chef/Owner Scott Bryan and I worked together years ago in another restaurant. Initially, his menu looks like typical fusion cuisine, but he has his own twists. Aiming for simplicity in a city where more is better, he pairs a minimum of ingredients to create a maximum effect. We taste through the menu with the staff – the food is amazing! From my perspective as Wine Director, however, most of what’s on the reserve list doesn’t pair with the food. A huge percentage of these are big, “chewy”wines. The food is lighter and simpler with touches of Asian spices. There are lighter, more elegant wines to add.

I’m a huge fan of half-bottles. We already have a ton of large bottles. I start collecting halves, and I ask one of the partners to do the same. He heads for the auction houses and starts bidding.

Presentation

I wish that I could remember the thought processes that went into the list design. I do remember waking up in a cold sweat at four in the morning and jotting down nightmares. Some of the presentation was dictated by prior decisions; a designer already had selected the physical book that would contain the list. It’s a half-width ring binder holding sheets of paper that are 4¼ by 11 inches. I decide to print pages on one side and fold them in half. The physical design allows me to update the list daily, a necessity given the wine-crazed clientele that we attract. Customers expect that the wine they see on the list to be there; being out of one item is guaranteed to convince them that we’re all smoke and mirrors.

veritas3I decide on a reference section for the list. Customers are always asking questions about bottle sizes, geography and wine trivia. I create a chart of bottle sizes, and I add some maps. Inspiration strikes, and I spend a couple of days researching an idea. I gather reviews of a recently released wine. As we all know, wine reviews vary considerably. I insert a blurb about the importance of trusting one’s own palate and quote from the reviews. Every flavor profile is different and the ratings vary widely. I show it to colleagues. They love it.

I want color on the list – just enough to accent the pages. I purchase an inkjet printer, which means slow printouts and regular replacement of pages when someone smears the ink with wet or greasy fingers, but we all like the look. I want to feature wines by the glass up front. A last minute call to the designer yields a pocket added to the inside cover.

We decide that we’re going to have the market and reserve lists in the same book. We want a certain level of impact in dining and wining here. We don’t want people to feel intimidated asking for the reserve list.

I gather a hundred selections or so as an opening market list. Given our “market” approach, I opt for separating them by varietal, not geography. I write a one-sentence blurb for each wine, but as time goes on, we’ll use commentary from staff tastings.

[Veritas – marketlist]
veritas2The reserve list requires a different approach. I go after it with a copy of a wine atlas in one hand. I try different formats until I find one that we all like. The page width requires certain decisions. I don’t want individual wines to take up two or three lines of text. My solution amounts to an outline of the wine world; true, customers must look at the top of the page to know where they are on the planet, but my scheme gives a simple categorization to the list.

Training

I have to deal with staff training. I decide that, over time, we will cover the equivalent of a sommelier’s course for the entire staff. Most of the wine education will be handled by me. I decide to leave the spirits education in Singer’s hands; though he’s new to managing a bar and teaching, it is a perfect opportunity for him to grow into a position.

The chef is approached. He’d love to have the kitchen staff participate. We plan classes and tastings, a demanding schedule that will tax the staff’s time and energy. The waitstaff is hired with that in mind. We look for people wo are personally into wine right from the start.

First Returns

Opening day arrives. The reserve list will open with holes intact. It will be a constantly evolving list, as any good wine list should be. Everyone says that their list is constantly evolving, but most aren’t. They become static creations because no one has the time to constantly update them. Our approach has to be different, and my assistants will free more of my time to do that.

I wish I had months to add more whites and to add wines from other parts of the world. I’d like to see more wines representing the lighter side of life. Balance will come with time. On the other hand, we know that the public, and the critics, will come looking for the holes and, finding them, will assume that we haven’t thought it through.

I add an opening statement onto the first page of the wine list, explaining our concept and evolutionary approach. It has no effect on a restaurant critic who arrives before we open, looks at a draft of the list and pronounces judgment on it. One shows up the day after we open and announces that we don’t have the wine that the reviewer wants. We have 11 other vintages of the very wine, but… yawn… well, an interesting list. A neighborhood restaurateur comes in, combs through the list and asks for an obscure wine. “You don’t have it? I thought you were going to cover everything.” He leaves, no doubt to return to his own restaurant and pass the word about Veritas’ inadequate wine list.

After a day or two, I realize that when you come into the New York City market with what we are offering, this reaction is unavoidable. Most patrons and colleagues are excited for us. There are always going to be those who feel that they have to criticize. We have over 1,300 wines on a brand new list. We’ll never cover everything. If we tried to cover everything in a list this size, we’d have one selection from each appellation, and that’s about it. Who’d be interested? Who’d be excited?

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Desserts and Dessert Wines

Tuesday, January 5, 19990

Q San Francisco
January 1999
Page 56

Desserts and Dessert Wines

“Oh,no, I couldn’t eat ANOTHER bite. Well… MAYBE I’ll just look at the DESSERT list.”

Dessert is one of nature’s most perfect inventions. Properly made, it contains elements of all four basic food groups–sugar, fat, caffeine and a touch of salt. These of course correspond to the cardinal essences of life: earth, air, fire and water. In point of fact, dessert is a true Zen experience.

For some inexplicable reason, heated debates often occur after dinner over dessert–arguments about dieting, health, and even people who claim not to like a good chocolate mousse. These poor, deluded individuals have merely strayed from the path of all that is good, decent and moral in life. You, as a righteous individual, have a decision to make. You can reach out to them and bring them back into the fold. Or you can reach out and take the extra helping yourself.

Dessert should be accompanied by a beverage. I’ve never understood why perfectly sensible people who enjoy liquids of various sorts with their appetizers, entrees and cheeses suddenly seem to feel that nothing but water should accompany their last course. It remains shocking, but the most often overlooked part of the winelist in a restaurant is the listing of dessert wines.

Understanding sweet wines is not as difficult as it may seem at first. There are a few basic types, the rest is all variation on a theme. Perhaps most common are late-harvest wines. Simply, these are wines that have been made from grapes that are, well, late-harvest.

A basic premise in winemaking is that you leave grapes on the vine until enough of the acids in them have converted to sugars which will enable you to get a sufficient level of alcohol when you ferment the grape juice. With late-harvested grapes, you leave them on the vine till there’s so much sugar that only a portion will be converted to alcohol (the fermentation yeasts die off when the alcohol level reaches around 15%). This leaves the wine very sweet.

If you read any food and wine magazines, you’ve probably read about “botrytis” or “noble rot”. This is a fungus that develops on grapes. What the fungus does is drill little holes in the grape skin and suck the water out. This concentrates all the flavor and sugar elements in the grape, almost to the point of turning the grapes into raisins. Needless to say, the wine made from what little juice can be pressed from these grapes is highly flavored and rather sweet. The most famous of this type is Sauternes.

A similar result happens with ice-wines. Here, the grapes are left on the vine till the first frost. They are picked early in the morning while still frozen and crushed. Because much of the water is crystallized as ice, the juice is once again very concentrated and flavorful. The risk, however, of just killing off the grapes or having them rot before the first frost is high. That’s why the prices are too. Ice-wines made from Riesling in Germany generally top the quality list.

The last category are the so-called “fortified wines”. Ports, sherries, and other similar wines are made in a variety of methods, but the underlying idea is the same. Neutral grape brandy is added to grape juice or sweet wine to a level that prevents or stops fermentation (remember that 15% yeast die-off thing), resulting in, you guessed it, sweet wine.

Okay, enough of the technical stuff. Let’s get some dessert whipped up and pick a few dessert wine favorites to try out. I happen to love banana bread (like any reasonably sane individual), and then there’s this chocolate thing…

The Ultimate Banana Cake

2 cups whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup corn or canola oil
1/2 cup maple syrup
4 eggs
2 tablespoons of milk
3 very ripe bananas, mashed
1/2 cup of chocolate chips

(Note: All four basic food groups are indeed represented.The bananas and whole wheat flour are purely spurious…)

Mix the flour and salt. Blend in the oil and syrup. Beat the egg yolks lightly and mix into the flour mixture. Add milk and bananas and stir thoroughly. Add chocolate chips and mix. Beat the egg whites till stiff and fold in carefully till it is just blended through. Don’t over-mix at this point or you will deflate the egg whites and the cake will be just a little too dense. Pour in a loaf or cake pan and bake in a 350ÉF oven for 45-50 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve with whipped cream.

Dessert Wine Picks

For something a little light, refreshing and just plain fun, I like Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont in Italy. This is the sweeter, less sparkly version of Asti Spumante. My current fave is Giorgio Carnevale’s “Sori”. Other great choices, Bologna’s “Vigna Senza Nome” and Bava’s “Bass Tuba” (don’t ask).

In the sweeter, more serious vein is anything made by Alois Kracher of Austria. Personal top pick (and only because I had it most recently), his Scheurebe Beerenauslese. It may be unpronounceable, but delicious definitely. Another top pick is from Chambers in Southern Australia, any or all, but the best is the Rare Muscat.

Now for something a bit heavier and red. Yes, red–dessert wines do come in all colors. I think I would have to go with Paolo Bea’s Sagrantino Passito from central Italy. But I could easily be talked into a Banyuls from Dr. Parce in southern France or Ridge’s Zinfandel Essence from California.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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ROME: The Eternal City

Tuesday, January 5, 19990

Q San Francisco
January 1999
Pages 26-30

ROME: The Eternal City
Images Brett Kaufman

roma1

The Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Imperial Fora, the Circus Maximus, the Sistine Chapel, the Borghese Palace, the list goes on and on. These are the ancient places you’ve read about since you were a kid. Welcome to The Eternal City!

Over the course of western literary history, more has been written about Rome than about any other single city on the planet. For the inveterate traveler, wanderer, amateur archaeologist, poet or artist, it is, perhaps, the one “must visit” city. It is hard to imagine a more fascinating assemblage of the ancient and the modern in one place.

During my years of reading about Rome two things always stood out. First, I was led to manifest visions of a city overrun by feral cats. Somehow or other there seemed to be more denizens of the feline variety than the human. When I arrived, I did find cats, scattered here and there, and indeed they do run free, but they tend to remain in small, localized areas of some of the older ruins dotted throughout the city.

“I should like to see Rome,” she said; “it must be a lovely city, or so many foreigners would not be constantly arriving there. Now, do give me a description of Rome. How does the city look when you enter in at the gate?”
– Beauty of Form and Beauty of Mind, Hans Christian Anderson

Second, I was led to believe that Rome existed as a city of fountains–which turned out to be absolutely true. Fountains are everywhere. Most of them are small, not quite nondescript. But the major ones are truly awesome. The foremost spouting water attraction in the world is undoubtedly the Fontana di Trevi, a massive, amazing sculpture of water and marble. A photo in front of this fountain, preferably in the evening when it is beautifully lit, is a must for tourist and Italian alike.

My fountain of choice is Fontana delle Tartarughe. Located in Piazza Mattei, this 16th century fountain has been modified by several major sculptors over time. The graceful sculpture depicts four young boys in the buff assisting four tortoises on their climb into the top of the fountain. The Tartarughe is also located near one end of one of my favorite streets in Rome, Via Giulia, the main street of the old Jewish Ghetto, now home to great little art galleries and design shops.

One of the most popular places to hang out and people watch is Piazza Navona. Crowds of locals and tourists gather round to watch artists and performers do their thing around this multi-block open space.

For myself, Piazza del Popolo is where I go to sit, soak up some sun and watch the world pass by while surrounded by four massive lion fountains that guard the space. Popolo is also known, by those who apparently know such things, as one of the piazzas where gay men and women congregate. Popolo makes a great starting spot for a day of sightseeing, equipped with gothic churches, ancient ruins and a fascinating Italian art museum.

Sightseeing is the major reason to vacation in Rome. There is, of course, the necessary visit to the Vatican Museums, especially the Sistine Chapel. If you don’t want to wait in line forever, get there early, take a walk through the Chapel first, and then go back to the Museums later. (Major tip: Don’t wear shorts or sleeveless shirts when touring Rome, especially in religion related places–Romans are notoriously conservative about mode of dress and will bluntly refuse you admission to most churches, and definitely Vatican City. The same is true of many restaurants.)

roma2If, like me, you are into really ancient ruins, a stop by the Largo Argentina for a look at the four Republican temples is well worth it. This square block area is also home to an amazing number of cats that have overrun the sacred grounds and are now considered kind of sacred themselves. A morning at the Imperial Forum and the Colosseum is impressive, however, access to the latter, and whole sections of the former, is limited because of crumbling rock and restoration attempts.

For the truly classical-oriented, a short train trip out to the 1st century city of Ostia Antica is an absolute must. I spent an entire day there exploring the ancient ruins. Some of the most fascinating mosaics, including a gym floor laid out in black and white tile pictures of naked athletes and an anatomical invitation floor mat at the local bathhouse, are a couple features sure to catch your eye.

Speaking of bathhouses, if you want to see what they were really all about, drop by and spend an hour or two at the Baths of Caracalla near the Circus Maximus. When operational, the Baths–equipped with gym, solarium, sauna, whirlpool and private lounges–handled 1600 people per day. You’ll never look at a modern “health club” the same way again!

If you want to be awed by a monument, go to the Pantheon. Incredibly well preserved and beautiful, it will take your breath away. Dating over two thousand years old, it is in better shape than many buildings built in the last century. While you’re in the neighborhood, you can drop by Piazza Minerva and see one of my favorite statues, a really cute little elephant.

The impressive Spanish Steps (with a great little fountain at the bottom, the scene of much cruising) is also, of course, a must visit. I prefer to start at the top, from where you get a full view of Rome, and walk down, though the fitness buffs among us will want to walk up. From the base of the steps you can hit the major shopping district where you will find every fashion designer in Rome along Via Condotti and Via Borgogna.

If you just want to relax and see some beauty, drop in and wander around the nearby Borghese Park where you can see everything from old villas to statuary, to a small lake, to the stunning Galleria Borghese (by appointment only).

DINING OUT

Food in Italy is, of course, a major concern. Let’s start simply. Coffee. More specifically, espresso. Two places serve exceptional espresso: Sant’Eustachio (82 Piazza Sant’Eustachio) and La Tazza d’Oro (84 Via degli Orfani), both near the Pantheon. Personally, I am a fan of the latter, but try both and decide for yourself. Also, in the late afternoon, La Tazza d’Oro serves a great espresso ice with whipped cream.

Ice cream, well, gelato, is an Italian passion. The most famous and most popular spot to get some frozen heaven is Giolitti at 40 Via Uffici del Vicario; with their array of flavors that makes Baskin Robbins look like amateurs, it’s tough to do much better. There is one exception, San Crispino. With two locations (56 Via Acaia, in the southern suburbs, and 42 Via della Panetteria, by Fontana di Trevi), they serve the most amazing ice cream you will ever have. The owners use only the absolutely best ingredients they can find: their house flavor uses honey from their own bees, their zabaglione flavor uses a twenty year old reserve marsala wine, their scotch flavor uses an eighteen year old single malt–an ethereal experience to say the least.

roma3You’re in Italy, so pizza, right? Not quite what you’re used to at home, but you’ll find the real thing here. Hands down, the best pizza I’ve ever had is from a little hole-in-the-wall called Da Giovanni, at 39 Piazza Campo de’Fiori. Piazza Campo de’Fiori is also one of the coolest places to hang out. There are several coffee bars, several wine bars (including one of the best, La Vineria, at #15), and one of the best open-air food markets you’ll ever visit. The other must see food markets for those who, like me, like to visit them, are at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and, if you’re in the area of the Vatican, Piazza dell’Unità.

Now back to pizza; rather, Pizza Bianca–which is basically what we call focaccia. Simple, oiled, salted and sometimes herbed pizza dough baked light and delicious. Romans slice these open and fill them with a variety of meats, cheeses, and vegetables. The secret spot to acquire some has no name on the door, people just usually call it the “you know, the no-name focaccia place.” Owned by Salvadore Paladini, and located at 29 Via del Governo Vecchio, this is the one snack place you can’t miss in Rome. Have a Bianca filled with stracchino cheese and arugula while you sip some mineral water and stand around. Then take another one to have with you for when you get hungry later. Maybe stuffed with mortadella and cured Sicilian olives?

Few restaurants in Rome are really great, but almost all that I’ve eaten in are quite good. Here are the four that I would recommend you check out if you have little time and want to sample the best.

For lunch, Sora Margherita, at 30 Piazza delle Cinque Scole. This is a bargain priced osteria serving serious Roman-Jewish fare. Watch for owner Margherita Tomassini to serve you, with a twinkle in her eyes and a casual “signorine” (“ladies”) as she sets your food out.

For a simple dinner and great people watching, head over to the area around Piazza Navona. Hang for a bit and watch the world walk by, then walk down the little side street off the west side of the piazza to the corner of Via delle Pace, #25, and have a drink and dinner outside at Bramante. This savory little place is owned by friend Giuseppe Pecora. Tell him I said, “Buona Sera.”

For a great dinner and an incredible wine selection, you must visit Al Bric at 59 Via del Pellegrino–one of Rome’s newest wine bars that, unlike many wine bars, pays just as much attention to food. While not inexpensive, the selection of great Italian fare and wines is worth the tab. By the way, restaurants in Italy, generally, charge the same as retail stores for wine, so you won’t get hit with outrageous prices for your fave quaff.

Last, but by no means least, one of the best high-end restaurants in Rome is a place called Il Convivio, at 44 Via dell’Orso. Not particularly classic food and not even completely Italian, this restaurant offers more of the cutting edge of cuisine in Rome. If you want to see what a great chef in Rome is doing with modern multi-cultural cuisine, this is the spot you want to hit.

WHERE TO STAY

The fun thing about Roman accommodations is that you can live like a queen or live like a monk. There are plenty of good hotels in Rome ranging from really cheap to really expensive. Expect that hotel rooms will not be particularly large. In general, however, the hotels are clean and well-managed.

Hotel staff in Rome are notoriously helpful for making sure you enjoy your stay. Most hotels provide a Concierge who will get you restaurant reservations, gallery appointments, and provide you with directions and ideas for all sorts of things to do.

roma4If you don’t mind a room in which it’s hard to turn around without bumping into something, I recommend the Rinascimento, conveniently located near Campo dei’Fiori, at 122 Via del Pellegrino. A small (18 room) converted palazzo with modern, clean rooms, this is one of the better bargains you will find in Rome. Another good choice is Hotel Alexandra at 25 Via Veneto–a bigger hotel, with larger rooms, but still relatively inexpensive.

A last note on hotels. Make sure you have reservations and confirmation in advance. Rome is not a great place for people who show up planning to “wing it.” It’s a popular tourist destination and hotels rarely have rooms available for someone who just wanders in off the street.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR THE GAY TOURIST

Start from the following groundrules. This is a major European city controlled by one of the most rigid religious organizations on the planet. Living space is at a premium both in terms of availability and cost. Gay people have a choice of living with their parents till the day they “marry” or sharing a small apartment with way too many people. Friends expect each other to hang together, and they don’t really care about sexual orientation; they’re more interested in the clothes they wear, the movies they just saw, which coffee or wine bar is the present hot spot, and whether the sauce on last night’s pasta was made the way grandma used to make it. (Of course, that’s pretty much what you’re interested in as well!) So, it makes perfect sense that the only gay bars and clubs in Rome are oriented around tourists–nobody local really goes to them except occasionally to dance, or to show friends visiting from elsewhere that there are really gay clubs in Italy.

Generally, gay friends gather around their favorite coffee bar, wine bar, or at some local piazza–every clique has its hang-out. Cruising in Rome is not one of the easier propositions since everyone gives everyone else the once or twice over. It’s just hard to tell if they’re looking at you or at your clothes. There are gay events, dances, lectures, social gatherings. Some of them are by invitation, many are open to whomever wants to attend. The best way to find out is to consult one of the monthly magazines that cover the social scene in Rome. Try glancing through Time Out Rome (English and Italian), or Babilonia (Italian only), a national gay publication that also publishes an annual guide to the entire country in both Italian and English; or drop by Rome’s only gay bookstore, Babele on Via dei Banchi Vecchi just off Via del Pellegrino. The magazines and guides are generally easy to find at street kiosks.

roma5A quick listing of the more popular gay places; everyone knows The Hangar, Rome’s oldest gay bar. The best times to visit are Friday, Saturday, and Monday late evenings. American owned, it is probably the most popular (and one of the easier to find), with a primarily tourist clientele, though a lot of the Gen-X age Romans hang there too. A great address too: Number 69, Via in Selci, near the Colosseum. Nearby you’ll find L’Apeiron (5 Via dei Quattro Cantoni), a two level club big on music videos. For dancing, there are two major places: L’Alibi in the Testaccio district, at 44-57 Via di Monte Testaccio, near the Pyramide; and L’Angelo Azzuro, at 13 Via Merry del Val.

Except for the above-mentioned places, gay spots seem to open and close with such rapidity they would leave the Tasmanian Devil dizzy. Even a just acquired, up-to-date listing probably warrants a phone call to ensure that any given club is actually still there. Bars and clubs are also notoriously difficult to find. Most are hidden behind plain facades with little if any indication that you are in the right spot. They also tend to be in either out-of-the-way neighborhoods or somewhat seedy locales.

OUT & ABOUT IN THE CITY

A few notes about getting around Rome. First, you will probably arrive at Fiumicino Airport. Unless you’ve got an incredible amount of luggage, don’t take a cab into the city. It’s not a short drive and it will blow a huge hole in your budget. There’s a direct train line into the center of the city, you can take either a local or express, each no more than a few dollars. From Stazione Termini you can then take a cab, bus, or metro. Cabs, again, are not cheap, but depending on where you need to go, they may be your only reasonable option.

The bus system covers the entire city extremely well, but it can be incredibly slow, incredibly packed (especially close to rush hour), and very confusing. It is, however, only 1500 lire, less than a dollar. The metro, or subway, consists of two lines that cross the heart of Rome. To get to any of the major sightseeing spots, this is probably your best choice other than your own two feet. I’m a big fan of walking around Rome. It’s not laid out in “a grid” like many American cities, so it can be a bit bewildering, but you’ll discover some amazing little piazzas and sights as you wander.

A caveat about public transportation. It’s operated on the honor system. You buy tickets from machines and walk through open gateways or climb onto buses through doors that are not necessarily close to the driver. You are supposed to punch your ticket in little stamping machines located near these gates or doors. The ticket is time-stamped and is then good for 75 minutes. Within that time period, should someone official ask to see your ticket, you’re in good shape. You’ll see that a large number of locals don’t bother to buy or punch tickets at all and take a chance that nobody will ask to see their ticket. They’re probably right. But it’s a major fine if you’re caught without one that is stamped.

As far as I’m concerned, the one indispensable guide to wandering around Rome is The Blue Guide to Rome (Norton). This 400 page, regularly updated guide covers not only detailed instructions for getting to and from places, but detailed historical and cultural notes and tips. It also includes pretty decent maps that detail the core of Rome.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

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Chile’s Hot Values

Friday, December 4, 19980

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
Winter 1998
Pages 30-31, 60-63

Chile’s Hot Values

Let’s face it. We never though that we’d be drinking Chilean Merlot. In truth, most of us never thought about Chilean wine at all. It was partially the source; except for those geography nerds who sat in the front row, who knew where Chile was anyway? We were sure, if someone had asked, that it was somewhere in South America, and it was probably a perfectly nice place to live if you were South American, but wine? I mean, even the name, Chile, comes from the Indian word Tchili, the “deepest point on earth.” Who would grow grapes there?

santechile1It was also the grape – Merlot. A few years ago, Merlot was a wine that mostly was left to people who hadn’t quite figured out if they liked red wine or not. Sure, we drank it when it was blended with Cabernet in Bordeaux. (But we didn’t think about that.) Now and then we even poured it as house wine. Then someone decided they had a lot of the stuff to sell. Amazing what a good publicist can do for a disregarded grape, no?

Now the “M” grape is everywhere. The trend of the moment is to rip up whatever grapes you have and plant it, and nowhere is this more apparent than in Chile. In the last ten years, Merlot has taken to the Andean foothills and valleys like no other grape before it. Winemakers from the world over have flocked to the South American continent to lend their expertise, stake their claim and generally just get some grapes in a bottle.

Geography and Climate

Not that I want to bring up geography again, but it will help to put Chile in perspective. For those who don’t remember from class or who haven’t run for their dusty atlas, Chile is located on the “left-hand” side of the tail of South America. It stretches an amazing 2,610 miles from north to south, while averaging only 110 miles wide from seashore to the top of the Andes, and remember, that long stretch is north to south, making for wide climate differences.

In addition, the altitude ranges from sea level on the shores of the Pacific to over 22,000 feet at hte top of the Andes. Soils vary from sea-sand to volcanic rock; as a matter of fact, two of the areas where grapes are grown, Tupungatu and Maipu, are volcanoes. With desert in the north of the country and mountains, fjords and forests in the south, the grape growing region is centered around the central and capital city, Santiago. This is where 70 percent of the population live, and it is also where the climate is most conducive to grape-growing. Here, the summer temperatures average in the low 70s, while the winters are moderate, with mid-40 mean temperatures. The rainfall is around 15 inches per year, almost entirely during their winter, from May to September. What more could a grape ask for?

What is a Chilean Merlot?

General Characteristics and Aging: While it’s hard to generalize, Chilean Merlots fall into two styles: young, fresh wines, with bright berries that are made for casual drinking upon release, and rich, plummy, almost chocolaty wines, with solid oak contact that are made for developing over three-to-five years and that go well with grilled or roasted red meats. The latter are often designated as reserva wines.

Recent Vintages: Because of the consistent climate and the reliance on technological winemaking, Vintage is an insignificant factor in Chilean wines at this time. Having tasted several vintages of some of the more popular wines, house style remains notedly consistent from year to year.

Identity Search

While Chileans have made wine for centuries, the Chilean wine industry is “born-again.” Old styles of overripe, cooked fruit and native wood barrels that produced wines that only the Chileans loved have disappeared in a wave of modern technique and technology. Stainless steel, imported oak and laboratory analysis are now de rigueur rather than the exception. Natural pluses, such as no phylloxera, just add to the temptation to grow grapes and to make wine.

It would be nice to say that there is a definitive style for the wines of the valleys of Rapel, Aconcagua, Colchagua, Lontue, Curico, Central, San Fernando, Casablanca, Peumo, Maipo and Maule, or for that matter, to say that there is a definitive style for the Merlots of Chile, but there is not. Instead, hype about the “fun and flavor,” the “Latin American personality”and the “exuberance and fruit”of these wines dominates any discussion. In some cases, one or the other of these descriptors even holds true.

In fact, the quality and style of Chilean Merlot ranges from thin and weedy to overextracted and tasting of two-by-fours, but at the same time, it can range from ripe, fresh, berry fruit quaffs to rich, full-bodied, dark fruit, age worthy entries. This isn’t all that surprising given that the price range of these wines starts around $30 a case and goes up to five times that. What is surprising, however, is that in many cases, the low-end wines outshine the high-end choices.

As the saying goes, not all that glitters is gold, and in this case, not all of it is Merlot. Research done by the Chileans and others has shown that much of what is planted in fields of Chile is actually Carmenére or Grande Vidure. Although these grape varieties constitute a large percentage of plantings, bottle labeling almost excluisvely states “Merlot.” This accounts for a good amount of the differing palate profiles.

Veramonte Vineyards, Casablanca Valley, Chile

Veramonte Vineyards, Casablanca Valley, Chile

Similar to California, there is little in Chile in the way of vintage variation. The climate is steady from year to year – heat, sunshine and long growing seasons. Fresh, well-extracted fruit with a bit of oak put these wines squarely in the international style, and for the most part, the Chilean wines are made for early consumption. On the other hand, there are those who see the potential for treating each vintage differently by making reserve wines for aging when appropriate. Unfortunately for the consumer, the reserve designation is no guarantee of this style or level of quality. Caveat emptor.

Perhaps the most definitive thing I can say about the Merlots (and perhaps all varietals) of Chile is that the winemaker is the important factor. While there are soil differences between appellations, there is no notable terroir difference in the wines. Likewise, there is little that distinguishes Chilean Merlot from that of other countries, but a distinctive, fairly consistent house style emerges within each winemaker’s products.

The Price is Right

As a value house quaff, Chilean Merlots are certainly up there near the top. It’s hard to find decent red wine at these prices. The demand for Merlot from all points has, strangely enough for the world of competition, not driven prices down, but driven them up. The value wines that I recommend here are ones that I would certainly be happy to see poured at a bar or as a house wine at a table. For the higher-priced entries, what we have now is aging potential. The future remains to be seen, but certainly for short-term aging, these wines appear to be great choices for not a lot of money.

Reviewer’s Choice

Caliterra / 1997 Valle Central
100% Merlot
An absolutely delightful entry, this wine has what I look for in a quality Merlot. Dark, ripe fruit, peppery, a touch of cedar, an overlay of bitter chocolate, good acidity and alcohol. Unbeatable for the price, and a great partner with grilled meats.

Concha y Toro / 1994 Rapel Valley / Marqués de Casa Concha
100% Merlot
This elegant entry has notes of cocoa, tobacco, pepper, ripe dark cherries and an intense, long finish. It opened up beautifully with time. Try this with a solid red meat meal. The outstanding wine of the tasting, not just in the value category.

Cousiño-Macul / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Entry has dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate, pepper and herbal qualities. A long finish, good tannins and alcohol show a definite promise for aging. This is a great choice any time you want a solid, full-bodied red with dinner.

VALUE

Alameda / 1995 Maipo Valley / Santa Maria Vineyard
100% Merlot
Light and simple, this makes a nice house pour. Bright berry fruit, with good acidity and just a touch of tannin and oak on the finish. [Alameda Wine Cellars, 518-756-7015, $52/case]

Alameda / 195 Maule Valley / Special Reserve, La Violeta Vineyard
100% Merlot
Ripe cherries and cinnamon are prominent in this nicely balanced entry. The small dose of oak and tannin on the finish round this out well. Serve with lighter meat dishes, such as veal and poultry. [Alameda Wine Cellars, 518-756-7015, $68/case]

Caliterra / 1997 Valle Central
100% Merlot
An absolutely delightful entry, this wine has what I look for in a quality Merlot. Dark, ripe fruit, peppery, a touch of cedar, an overlay of bitter chocolate, good acidity and alcohol. Unbeatable for the price, and a great partner with grilled meats. [Robert Mondavi Winery, 707-226-1395, $68/case]

Carta Vieja Merlot / 1997 Maule Valley
100% Merlot
Ripe fruit, herbs, pepper, a good touch of oak and a slightly off-dry palate make this a perfectly acceptable house quaff. Given the price, this is an outstanding value. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, 212-355-0700, $34/case]

Casa Julia / 1995 San Fernando Valley
100% Merlot
A light style with nice acidity, bright berry fruit and a touch of tannin and oak on the finish. Better than the typical house pour, this is a good choice with lighter dishes. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $72/case]

Casa Lapostolle / 1996 Rapel Valley
100% Merlot
Fresh, sweet cherry fruit, with a touch of cinnamon and a nice round finish. A bit of tannin and good acidity make this quite tasty. Try it with pasta or risotto. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $96/case]

Chateau La Joya / 1996 Colchagua Valley
100% Merlot
Vegetal and herbal, this wine seems as if it is made from underripe grapes, yet it is rather pleasant and certainly a nice choice for those who want a “non-fruity” option. [Marie Brizard Wines and Spirits, USA, 305-893-3394, $56/case]

Chateau La Joya / 1995 Colchagua Valley / Gran Reserva
100% Merlot
Somewhat herbal, though far more complex than the non-reserva, with spicy notes, a slightly bitter finish and a bit more plummy fruit. With roasted poultry, this makes a nice partner. [Marie Brizard Wines and Spirits, USA, 305-893-3394, $96/case]

Concha y Toro / 1996 Peumo Valley / Trio
100% Merlot
Ripe, bright fruit with a touch of pepperiness, a good dose of alcohol and a long finish. This wine has an unusual petrolly note that is unexpected, but not unpleasant in a Merlot. Try it with a lighter meal. [Banfi Vintners, 516-626-9200, $76/case]

Concha y Toro / 1994 Rapel Valley / Marqués de Casa Concha
100% Merlot
This elegant entry has notes of cocoa, tobacco, pepper, ripe dark cherries and an intense, long finish. It opened up beautifully with time. Try this with a solid red meat meal. The outstanding wine of the tasting, not just in the value category. [Banfi Vintners, 516-626-9200, $96/case]

De Martino / 1996 Maipo Valley
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Light berry fruit, simple and smooth, an interesting note of soap or perhaps cilantro, which also appears in this producer’s reserve wine. Nice with spicier Asian cuisines. [O.F.S. Imports, 707-526-9111, $78/case]

La Playa / 1994 Maipo Valley / Estate Reserve
100% Merlot
Chocolate and sweet, ripe plums dominate the nose and palate here. Good acidity, sweet oak and mild tannins flesh out the package and make this a delight to drink. One of my favorites in this tasting, this is perfect with lighter meals. [La Playa Vineyards, 516-868-3363, $88/case]

Montes / 1996 Curico Valley / Special Cuvée
100% Merlot
This wine is potentially age worthy, with a good concentration of ripe fruit, nice touches of oak and a good long finish. A great “casual dinner” wine. For those to whom it matters, this was my favorite packaging as well. [T.G.I.C. Importers, Inc., 818-769-1821, $80/case]

MontGras / 1996 Colchagua Valley
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Spicy, peppery and a nice concentration of ripe, red fruit. A good dose of alcohol and tannin give it some nice backbone as well. This one might even age for a bit. A tasty accompaniment to lighter meats. [The Hess Collection, 707-255-1144, $65/case]

Saint Morillon / 1995 Lontue Valley
100% Merlot
Bright, delightful, ripe berry fruit and light in style, with just a touch of a spritz and a little shoe polish on the finish make this a tasty house pour. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $48/case]

Santa Ema / 1995 Maipo Valley / Reserve
100% Merlot
Definitely a wine for those who like oak, this wine has an intense oak, butter, vanilla and coconut nose, with ripe berry fruit underneath. A good barbecue wine. [T.G.I.C. Importers, Inc., 818-769-1821, $84/case]

Santa Rita / 1996 Lontue Valley / 120
100% Merlot
In some wines I like a “barnyard”nose but young Chilean Merlot may not be the best place for it. Still, for those who want the funk, this is the only option I found in the genre. [Vineyard Brands Inc., 205-980-8802, $65/case]

Santa Rita / 1995 Maipo Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
With just a touch of that earthy, barnyard funk, this wine is far more interesting than its non-reserva counterpart. Great spicy finish, lots of ripe cherry fruit and a structure that says it will age well. [Vineyard Brands Inc., 205-980-8802, $90/case]

Stony Hollow / 1996 Aconcagua Valley
100% Merlot
Dried cherries, light spice and a touch of minerals. A nice, rounded package that works well with lighter meals and a good choice for a bar pour. [Joseph Victori Wines, Inc., 914-637-0100, $59/case]

Terra Nova / 1994 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Ripe plums and apricots, with a touch of cocoa and cedar. Good acidity and tannins show promise for some development with time. This one works well with lighter meals, such as poultry and pasta. [Freixenet, USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $96/case]

Sergio Traverso / 1995 Rapel Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
Ripe, plummy fruit, with a touch of pepper and spice. The sweet oak carries through and onto the finish making this a great choice with spicy foods. [Parrott & Co., 212-734-2782, $64/case]

Undurraga / 1996 Cochagua Valley
100% Merlot
Bright red fruit that could only be described as “juicy,” a nice touch of oak and earthiness make this one of the best choices in the low-end bunch. A nice complement to lighter meals. [Kobrand Corporation, 212-490-9300, $56/case]

Veramonte / 1996 Valle Central
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe cherry fruit, with well-balanced tannins and acidity. Just a touch of spice and oak add to the package. This tasty wine is a delightful drink with fish, poultry and veal. [Franciscan Estates, 707-963-7111, $80/case]

Viña Santa Carolina / 1995 Maule Valley / Reserva
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
An oddity for Merlot, this wine has strong tropical fruit flavors of banana and pineapple, with light spice and an intriguing softness. The off-dry finish works well with the flavor profile and pairs nicely with spicier cuisines. [Canandaigua Wine Co., 716-394-7900, $84/case]

Viña Tarapacá / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Black pepper and dried herbs dominate the light-styled fruit here. A touch of bitterness on the finish is a nice touch, if not typical. This would work well with pasta dishes. [Beringer Wine World Estates, 707-963-7115, $64/case]

Viña Tarapacá / 1005 Maipo Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
Riper, richer fruit and definitely more oak than its non-reserva counterpart. Still a strong dose of black pepper and dried herbs that works well with Mediterranean cuisines. [Beringer Wine World Estates, 707-963-7115, $76/case]

MODERATE

Carmen / 1996 Rapel Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
A soft, delicious dark fruit character, with notes of chocolate and a delightful bittersweet oak finish put this in the top lineup. A tasty choice with roast poultry or veal. [Brown-Forman Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $99/case]

Casa Lapostolle / 1995 Rapel Valley / Cuvée Alexandre
100% Merlot
Amazingly juicy, cherry fruit, loads of spice and plety of tannin and acidity make this a delicious quaff now and a contender for one of the most age worthy entries. Pair with your veal entrée. [Schieffelin & Somerset Co., 212-251-8200, $138/case]

Cousiño-Macul / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Entry has dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate, pepper and herbal qualities. A long finish, good tannins and alcohol show a definite promise for aging. This is a great choice any time you want a solid, full-bodied red with dinner. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $124/case]

De Martino / 1996 Maipo Valley / Prima Reserve
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe, dark fruit, lots of juicy acidity and a healthy dose of tannins. Similar to the non-reserve entry, there is a hint of soap or cilantro on the nose. Cellar it a bit and then serve it with an Asian-style meal. [O.F.S. Imports, 707-526-9111, $104/case]

Stonelake / 1996 Lontue Valley
100% Merlot
Earthy, dark fruit, with a pepperiness and an off-dry finish. There is a nice dose of alcohol and tannin that will give this wine some life over the next few years. Serve with red meat. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $112/case]

Veramonte / 1996 Casablanca Valley / Primus
100% Merlot (Carmenère)
Black cherries, cedar and a bit of tobacco in a well-rounded wine. For the price, this is a great value that will please any customer looking for a good, solid Merlot. [Franciscan Estates, 707-963-7111, $108/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Veneto: Outstanding Originals

Thursday, November 5, 19980

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November 1998
Page 42-43, 75-76

Veneto: Outstanding Original

In April, I find myself jetting across the Atlantic to hang for a week in the Veneto – specifically, Verona. Home of Romeo, Juliet, and a couple of gentleman, Verona is also host to the annual VinItaly wine exhibition. From every corner of Italy and many parts of the rest of the world, thousands of producers flock to the fairgrounds in this ancient town to show their wares.

The Santi vineyards outside Verona

The Santi vineyards outside Verona

Local merchants and restaurateurs gear up for one of their busiest food and wine weeks of the year. Baccala, polenta, radicchio, and the occasional dish of horsemeat are served up left and right. Risotti made with local herbs or local wines fly out of kitchens to land on tables that are packed from the opening moment till the wee hours. The usual response to a request for a table is “Try next Monday” – after the fair is over, of course. Luckily for those of us who manage to find tables, the local wines are delicious, the perfect accompaniment to the irresistible local cuisine.

The Whites
Winemakers in the Veneto produce a wide array of wines, from sparkling to white to pink to red to sweet. In recent years, the market for “international varietals” has sparked the industry for cheap and cheerful Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet. While often attractive, these are not the wines that the Veneto is justly famous for, nor are they the wines that are consumed locally. Pinot Grigio has also become a bit more visible, but most wine drinkers seem to prefer the crisper styles that come from neighboring Friuli.

There is nothing quite so refreshing as to start a meal with a glass of Prosecco. By regulation known under one of two names – Prosecco di Conegliano or Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Prosecco is one of the most ancient white wine grapes in Italy. Produced like Champagne by the mètodo clàssico, this crisp, high-acidity grape is the perfect apertif when made in a brut or extra dry style and is a delight at the end of the meal in a demi-sec style.

The leading white wines of the Veneto are Soave, Lugana, and Bianco di Custoza. Thanks primarily to the efforts of the Bolla winery, Soave is probably Italy’s most well-known white in the United States, a staple of Italian restaurant wine lists. Based on the Garganega grape, Soave can be dry, sweet, or anywhere in between and can range from quaffable bar wine to an impressive, rich, meal accompaniment. Some top producers, such as Anselmi and PrB, are even producing superb, single vineyard “reserve” styles.

Lugana is the local Venetian dialect name for Trebbiano, a grape ubiquitous throughout Italy. Like Soave, it can be light and nondescript; in the hands of a good producer, however, Lugana can be an amazing experience. Sergio Zenato, one of the Veneto’s stars, also produces a signature, reserve Lugana that is age-worthy.

Bianco di Custoza, a wine made from a field blend of local grapes that includes both Trebbiano and Garganega as well as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and others, is most often the local bar wine. While it is unlikely that Bianco di Custoza will ever be a world-class wine, it is virtually always refreshing and satisfying as either an apertif or first-course libation.

What is a Veneto Wine?

General Characteristics
Whites run the gamut from the dry, light, everyday aperitifs of Bianco di Custoza and sparkling Prosecco to the Trebbiano-based, peachy Lugana to medium-bodied, sometimes off-dry, apricot and herb Soave.

Reds range from the light-bodied Bardolinos with simple red fruit to age-worthy, full-bodied, high-alcohol, dried fruit-flavored Amarones that pair with game or with cheese. The versatile, food-friendly Valpolicellas cover a broad middle range.

Aging
Proseccos, most whites, Bardolinos and some light Valpolicellas are ready to drink upon release. Lugana and Soave “riserva” and richer-styled Valpolicella and Ripasso can age. The best Amarones from great vintages can age for decades; 1988-1991 vintages are drinking perfectly now. Veneto dessert wines are generally age-worthy.

Recent Vintages
1995, 1996 – Good for Bardolino and Valpolicella.
1988, 1990 and 1995 – Excellent for Amarone.

santeveneto2The Reds
On the red front, Veneto boasts two major appellations – Bardolino and Valpolicella. These neighboring communities produce wines based on three grapes; Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. Similar to Custoza, Bardolino is the local quaffing wine, but some fairly decent bottles reach our shores that make for a nice, slightly rustic match with the more “peasant” aspects of Northern Italian cuisine.

Bardolino is usually composed of less Corvina, the grape that gives color and body, and more Rondinella, a less expensive, easier to produce and more neutral tasting grape. There is a “classico” or heartland sub-appellation to Bardolino centered on one side of Lago di Garda, one of the prettiest lakes in Italy. The quality here is often better than the surrounding Bardolino area.

Valpolicella, whose production comprises a fairly large portion of the Veneto, comes in several guises. The base appellation is a dry, generally light, red table wine that can be simple or complex and goes with a wide variety of foods. It is, unfortunately, a difficult wine to define. I have had examples that were very light and simple with rather high acidity that complemented lighter fish dishes, and I have had wines from producers like Dal Forno Romano or Quintarelli that were so concentrated and rich that they easily stood up to local game dishes. Some local producers, notably Allegrini and Quintarelli, also produce single varietal wines from one or another of the local trio, most often either a richer Corvina or a lighter-style Molinara.

Within the Valpolicella region, there are three additional sub-appellations. The most well-known is Amarone Recioto della Valpolicella – more commonly known as Amarone. A distinctive style of wine, the grapes are left to air-dry for months, often until late February or early March. In addition, many producers leave the grapes on the vine to develop botrytis. The resulting raisinated grapes are then crushed and fermented dry to result in a concentrated, high-alcohol wine that, because of limited tannins in the particular varietals, can be drunk young or left to age.

Amarone is now made by a large percentage of Valpolicella producers, and experiments with various vinification techniques, barrel fermenting and barrique aging are adding to the range of styles and quality of this wine. Top producers include Quintarelli, Dal Forno Romano and Allegrini. Some of their wines need at least a decade to mature.

One of the interesting by-products of experimentation is the Valpolicella Ripasso. Not an official appellation, it is the result of producers who wanted to add body to their basic Valpolicellas. A small portion of either dried grapes or the remaining pomace from Amarone production is added to the Valpolicella fermentation tanks to boost concentration, flavor and alcohol levels. Most are marketed under the Valpolicella Superiore appellation, which requires an additional degree of alcohol, but many are now being called Ripasso, resulting in a new category for wine drinkers to explore. Boscaini and Allegrini produce delicious examples.

Sweet Wines
Veneto’s sweet wines include Recioto della Valpolicella. Generally made from botrytized grapes, the “recioto” refers to picking the grapes from the “ears” of the grape bunch, the ones that have the most sun exposure and are richest in sugars and flavors. Produced much like Amarone, the fermentation is stopped, either naturally or artificially, to produce a rich, concentrated dessert wine that is Italy’s answer to port.

There are also some delicious Recioto di Soave wines produced in the Soave region; all late harvested, and some botrytized. With honeyed, ripe, stone fruit character, these make wonderful accompaniments to fruit- and cheese-based desserts. Other white dessert wines are produced from a variety of grapes, including the interesting, Vespaiolo-based wines from Fausto Maculan.

As anywhere, there are good and bad wines that come from the Veneto. More and more, however, the wines are consistently good, and top-quality producers are making wines that rival the best from other regions of the world. Take some time and taste through what’s available to you locally, and next year, let’s hook up for a bottle in downtown Verona.

Reviewer’s Choice

Nino Franco / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico
100% Prosecco
Dry, notes of cooked pears and cardamom. With sushi, it was the hit of the pack.

Cavlchina / 1996 Bianco di Custoza Amedeo
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Rich, ripe pears, light yeastiness. Impressive for the gnre and an incredible choice with veal and pork.

Brigaldara / 1991 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice, chocolate. Still a little young and tannic.

Maculan / 1994 Acininobili
85% Vespaiola, 10% Tocai, 5% Garganega
Honey, spice, dried pears and apricots. Cries out for blue cheese, or just sip it on its own.

VALUE

Brigaldara / 1996 Valpolicella Classico
Corvina, Corvinone, Sangiovese
Blackberries and spice, great structure. Perfect with lighter meats and lightly spicy dishes.

Boscaini / 1995 Bardolino Classico Superiore Le Canne
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Red currants and spice. An interesting wine, good with lighter fried foods.

Cavalchina / 1997 Bianco di Custoza
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Pears, a touch of honeydew melon and light spice. Wonderful with poultry and veal.

Cavalchina / 1996 Bardolino Superiore Santa Lucia
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella
Plums, cherries and spice. Delicious on its own or with lighter meals.

Nino Franco / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico
100% Prosecco
Dry, notes of cooked pears and cardamom. With sushi, it was the hit of the pack.

Montresor / 1997 Bianco di Custoza
(mostly from Garganega, with Tocai, Chardonnay, Bianco Fernanda and Trebbianello)
Cream, spice and fresh peaches. Delicious as an aperitif or with poultry and light pasta dishes.

Villa Rizzardi / 1995 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Poiega
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Sweet cherries, spice and a touch of chocolate. Delicious on its own and a great match with lamb.

Zenato / 1997 Lugana San Benedetto
100% Trebbiano
White peaches, minerals and a touch of yeast. Delicious with lighter pastas and fish dishes.

Zonin / 1996 Soave Classico
95% Garganega, 5% Trebbiano
Light earth, yeasty, peaches and apricots. An excellent aperitif wine, especially for the price.

MODERATE

Allegrini / 1995 Valpolicella Classico Superiore La Grola
70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, 5% Sangiovese
Smooth, creamy, spice and dark fruits. A Valpolicella fit for red meat.

Anselmi / 1996 Soave Classico Superiore Capitel Croce
100% Garganega
Tropical fruit, coconut, vanilla and light spice notes. Delicious by itself or with lighter meats.

Bisol / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Crede
100% Prosecco
Bone-dry, minerally, grapefruit pith. Definitely an aperitif-style sparkler and great with a plate of oysters on the half-shell.

Boscaini / 1993 Valpolicella (Ripasso) Santo Stefano de le Cane
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Rich, full-bodied, dark fruits, chocolate and spice. Delicious with lamb and game.

Cavalchina / 1996 Bianco di Custoza Amedeo
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Rich, ripe pears, light yeastiness. Impressive for the genre and an incredible choice with veal and pork.

Prà / 1996 Soave Classico Superiore Monte Grande
90% Garganega, 10% Pinot Chardonnay
Apricots and cream, minerally, very elegant. A perfect partner with poultry and fish.

Vincenzo Toffoli / N.V. Prosecco di Conegliano Extra Dry
100% Prosecco
Dry, white peaches, with notes of yeast and toast. Delicious with fish and lighter poultry dishes.

PRESTIGE

Allegrini / 1994 Recioto Classico della Valpolicella
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Prunes and dried cherries, with spice and a touch of chocolate. Drink on its own or with a dessert, such as a spice cake.

Bertani / 1998 Amarone Classico Superiore
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice and earth. Always a class act. Delicious with game.

Bertani / 1985 Recioto Valpolicella Valpantena
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Cherry liqueur filled dark chocolate candies, with a spritz, in a bottle. The perfect wine with a chocolate dessert.

Brigaldara / 1991 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice, chocolate. Still a little young and tannic.

Dal Forno Romano / 1988 Recioto della Valpolicella
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Peppery, smooth, with dark fruit flavors of prunes and cherries. Drink instead of Port for a great finish to a meal.

Maculan / 1994 Acininobili
85% Vespaiolo, 10% Tocai, 5% Garganega
Honey, spice, dried pears and apricots. Cries out for blue cheese or just sip it on its own.

Masi / 1994 Ripasso Campofiorin
60% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Tobacco, plums and a touch of toffee. Perfect with lamb or game.

G. Rizzardi / 1993 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Dried cherries and strawberries, spice and alcohol. A perfect partner with lamb.

Villalta / 1993 Amarone I Communali
60% Corvina, 30% Rondineall, 5% Molinara, 5% Rossignola and other
Black cherry, blueberry and raisins, with an earthy element. Very luscious and soft black cherry flavors; long finish that is jammy, but clean. After dinner with veined cheeses.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Visiting Verona

Thursday, November 5, 19980

Q San Francisco
November 1998
Pages 54-55

Visiting Verona

veronaI never set out to be an Italophile. I never set out to focus my career on the world of Italian wine and food. Perhaps it was pre-saged by my first restaurant job in an Italian cafe back in my hometown of Ann Arbor, Michigan. But after that, most of my training tended to the Asian, or, as is now the current correct term in the field, Pacific Rim, cuisine. Somehow or other, a couple of years ago, I found myself back in an Italian restaurant.

Part of my job, amazingly, turns out to be to spend a week in Italy each year at the annual “VinItaly.” This extravaganza of (primarily) Italian wine is one of the largest exhibitions of grape alcohol on the planet. The best part of it, however, is exploring the town it is set in each year – Verona.

Verona has some great places to eat. During VinItaly it’s near impossible to actually get in to any of them. You know you’ve truly scored big when you snag a table during dinner hour at Bottega di Vini – great food and one of the most incredible Italian winelists you’ll ever see. You have to know someone to get in during this week. If you don’t, do what most of us do and eat somewhere else.

This is not really a bad thing. Verona’s trattorias are among the best that I’ve found in Italy. The people are incredibly friendly. The service, while generally one step beyond laid back, makes you feel right at home. And the food and wine of the region will keep you coming back.

Verona’s proximity to the mountains ensures a regular supply of trout and other freshwater fish, the prime staple of local cuisine. Polenta and risotto are the main grain based products. Radicchio is used in everything. Two local oddities of cuisine are the use of horsemeat–either dried, shredded and served with lemon juice, or braised in local red wine; and hops – the plant used in beer-making, here used as a favored herb.

The wines of the region are widely varied and too numerous to sum up easily. On the white side – Bianco di Custoza, Soave, Lugana, and Pinot Grigio are popular. The reds concentrate on Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Amarone.

If you want to do something in Verona besides eat and drink (and you’re a bit of a history buff) make sure you see Romeo’s house (a bit dilapidated these days); Juliette’s house (complete with balcony, and the worldwide center for “Jimmy loves Joey” type graffiti); and Juliette’s tomb. There’re also Ancient Roman towers, a huge arena, churches galore, and a beautiful river walk.

You need more? Try walking through the old quarter and shopping in the little arcades. If you run out of things to do in Verona, it’s only an hour’s train ride to Venice.

In the meantime, a little food and wine to keep us going…

Amarone & Radicchio Risotto

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup finely chopped shallots
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
2 cups Amarone
4-1/2 cups stock (vegetable or beef)
8 ounces radicchio, shredded (about 4 cups)
2 tablespoons parmigiano cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
salt
black pepper

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the oil in a heavy pan (4-quart or bigger) over medium to high heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until they soften, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat the grains well with oil and butter. Allow to cook for another few minutes, still stirring. Add the radicchio and mix well.

Risotto requires a bit of attention. Start adding the wine, a half cup at a time. After each addition, continue stirring until the liquid has been absorbed – then add the next half cup. After the wine, continue the same process with the stock. The process should take about 20 minutes, at which time the rice will be firm but sort of creamy.

Remove from the heat and add the remaining tablespoon of butter, the cheese, parsley, and then salt and pepper to taste. This is a great accompaniment to sautéed chicken livers. Serves 4-6.
Any local red wine is a great choice. My personal favorites, ranging from lighter to fuller bodied, are any of the Valpolicellas or Amarones from Quintarelli, Dal Forno Romano, Zenato or Allegrini. Truly hard to find is the Allegrini “La Poja,” a single vineyard, single varietal “table wine” from one of my favorite producers. And a really cool bottle to boot.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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