Passport Magazine

Lo que pasa en Buenos Aires

Saturday, February 7, 20090

Passport Magazine
February 2009
pgs 34-40
Lo que pasa en Buenos Aires
This exciting and inexpensive South American city is well known for its historic landmarks, beautiful parks, and excellent art museums. It is also an easy-going culture, where stopping to chat with friends, lingering over a coffee in a sidewalk café, or enjoying a glass of one of the country’s great wines at a local bar, all take precedence over any business appointment or preplanned event. Despite being located in a very conservative, Catholic with a capital C, country, the city of Buenos Aires itself is a bastion of liberality. Same-sex domestic partnerships have been legal since 2003, with a proposed full marriage ill up for debate. Gay bars abound, and restaurants that cater to our set are scattered throughout the various neighborhoods. Meanwhile, curious travelers will discover a plethora of entertainment, shopping, and nightlife options to rival any of the world’s great cities.

RESTING YOUR HEAD

Among the most popular spots for gay travelers are the gay owned bed and breakfasts. the two principal ones are Lugar Gay in the historic San Telmo neighborhood, and Bayres in Palermo, the former being men-only, the latter mixed gender. Another favorite, Posada de Palermo, in Palermo, has wonderfully comfortable rooms, great prices, and one of the best breakfast spreads in the city. For those on a budget, the End of the World Gay Hostel, on the border of San Telmo and La Boca, is a relatively new option. It’s a somewhat seedy neighborhood, but the place is clean and well kept, and transportation is easily available to other parts of town.

Celebrating its first anniversary this year, the self-proclaimed “five-star” Axel Hotel, located just outside of San Telmo in Monserrat, is becoming the new in-spot for the upscale gay traveler. A gleaming architectural triumph of glass and steel, it houses four dozen rooms, two pools (including a completely glass one located on the roof, hovering over a six story open lobby). The Axel’s one drawback is its location on a deserted (at night) industrial street, but then, anyone staying at the Axel is likely to have no problem springing for a taxi to more interesting zones.

Other gay-friendly options include the Art Hotel in Recoleta, which offers up quite nice, if slightly small, rooms at a very reasonable price, and boasts an excellent multilingual staff. On the fancier side is the Faena + Universe, situated on the far side of the refurbished warehouse and dock area known as Puerto Madero. It’s a fair hike from the rest of town, and sort of like taking a room at the South Street Seaport in New York or Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. It’s one of the finest hotels in the city and it features two excellent restaurants, a couple of delightful bars, and its own art galleries.

Meanwhile, the new Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt is attracting jet setters to its converted mansion packed with amazing artwork, several restaurants, and one of the few true wine bars in the city. Smaller boutique hotels that offer more personalized service are springing around the city as well. The two most well known, and among the best options, are the Home Hotel and the Bobo, both located in the heart of Palermo’s trendy design district.

EAT, DRINK, & BE MERRY

Porteños (port dwellers), as the local citizens call themselves, seem to spend more time in restuarants and cafés than they do at home or work. It does help that the North American/European penchant for “turning tables” is non-existent in Buenos aires; once seated, the table is yours until you care to leave, whether you order anything past your first coffee, cocktail, or appetizer…or not. It would be unthinkable of a restaurant to even suggest that you might order more, or free up the space for a more spendthrift customer – it’s just not done. With free Wi-Fi access in most of the central part of town, whiling away the day at a table is de rigeur.

Among the spots in the city where you can enjoy a quiet dinner, Desde el Alma in Palermo is considered by many to be the most romantic in town. A converted home with small tables and comfortable chairs stuck in various nooks and crannies, this hot spot offers creative takes on Argentine cuisine, and you can count on virtually every customer being paired up for date night.

On the gay front, the petite La Olla de Felix, located in the heart of Recoleta, can’t be beat. Here you will find simple, classic French food at a great price from the former chef of the Ritz-Carlton in Paris. Empire Thai, located in the heart of downtown, is home to some of the better Asian food in the city. Owner Kevin Rodriguez, a former banker, fell in love with this restaurant while visiting Buenos Aires on a business trip. When he heard the owners were selling it, he quit his bank job and bought the place.

For those who want truly exquisite culinary experiences, the modern Argentine stylings of various chefs await your discovery. These include: Germán Martitegui’s trendy and expensive Casa Cruz in Palermo where an ever present bevy of cute youngsters brings some of the best food in town to your table; Martin Molteni’s amazing cuisine at Pura Tierra is served up in a beautiful old home in Belgrano; Rodrigo Ginzuk’s stunning French-Argentine fusion cuisine at Maat, a gorgeously restored palacio in Belgrano – officially a private club, but open to the public when not filled with members; and Fernando Mayoral’s borderline “molecular gastronomy”style served up at Thymus, in Palermo. All are don’t miss spots.

If you find yourself in need of English-speaking company, Amaranta Bistro in Recoleta prepares an odd mix of US, Mexican, and Italian cooking in a café environment with virtually all customers speaking English in one form or another. They also offer one of the better brunches in town.

THE NIGHT IS YOUNG

There’s no one district in the city that is particularly gay, though there’s been a push to declare historic San Telmo as the heart of the gay community. This is an odd choice, given that outside of one B&B (and the nearby new hostel and hotel, both mentioned above) and the odd business here and there, there’s no gay nightlife to speak of here.

Most nightlife, gay or straight, begins late in Buenos Aires. It’s not unusual for a club to open around midnight, with bars opening not much earlier. Drag and stripper shows are popular in many venues. One of the few places open for an earlier drink is Flux Bar, located in Retiro near to downtown, where an after-work crowd gathers in an underground space hosted by owners Jamie Taylor and Ilia Konon.

A hotspot for gathering (locally called a punta de encuentro) is the area in Recoleta near to the intersection of avenues Pueyrredón and Santa Fé. Here you’ll find the casual café El Olmo, a spot to meet with friends before heading out for a night of drinking and dancing, as well as a place to pickup local taxi-boys, or hustlers. Within a few block radius are several gay bars, including the ever popular Search for its late night shows, Km Zero for its dancers, and Angel’s Disco for its transvestite and rough-trade crowd. On the far side of Recoleta, bordering on Palermo, the city’s largest barrio, are the large clubs Amerika and Glam. These places are generally packed with boys who want to dance the night away, and/or disappear into the “dark rooms.” Just a few blocks away is the new kid in town called Sitges, with a mix of young gay, lesbian, and straight folk in a large lounge-style space that rivals Amerika in size, though with a focus on drag shows and lots of drinking.

FIRMING AND TONING

After a few late nights of drinking, dining, and dancing (not to mention sightseeing packed days) you’ll probably need to relax and rejuvenate a bit. Full spa treatments are available at almost all the luxury hotels, regardless of whether you’re a guest of the hotel or not. A few hours spent at the popular Markus Day Spa in Recoleta will set you feeling right as well. Inexpensive massages are available throughout the city: most hotels have someone on call or at least someone to recommend. If you’re in or near Recoleta, the Centro Cultural Chino along Santa Fé doles out deep-tissue acupressure-style massages. The same is available at any of several locations in Belgrano’s small Chinatown neighborhood.

When it comes to working out, porteños, for the most part, aren’t into the whole muscle building world. Gyms are social spots, and working out is more for simply keeping healthy and looking good rather than developing large biceps. Most gyms, and they’re all over the city, offer up daily or weekly rates that are quite inexpensive. Amongst the gay set, the friendly and fairly “hot” gym is the American Hot Gym in Recoleta. The one real “chain” gym in the city is called Megatlon, a very sleek, modern group with spaces in multiple locations. They cater to the expat and wealthy crowd, with a large number of gay men in attendance, and their prices are pretty much the same as you’d pay in the States.

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

While most travel guides will send you off to the famed pedestrian mall that is Calle Florida, the truth is, you won’t find anything there that you can’t find back home, including the same brands, and probably at the same price. Where Buenos Aires stands out is with its legion of young, hip designers.

For the designer set, head off into the aptly named Palermo SoHo. Here, you’ll find the streets lined with one shop after another, interspersed with enough restaurants and cafes to give you a spot to rest while you shop. For the guys, start off along Gurruchaga, in the 1700 block (near Costa Rica Street) at the well known El Cid, the best spot for anyone into the preppy look. Some of the hottest sweater designs, sport jackets, and classic style shirts line the racks here. For the gals, the neighboring Vietnam: Moda offers up some trendy local takes on Asian design.

If you’re a bit more informal than the preppy type, visit the completely hip and casual Antique Denim shop just a block away, where new takes on old jeans and vintage clothing makeovers are the order of the day. A mere block further on you’ll find yourself at Bolivia, which somehow manages to combine gay style and equally intriguing designs for women as well.

Moving over to the parallel Armenia Street, women discover trendy suburban and country style looks at Awada, or edgy, urban designs at Janet Wise . For those missing out on their high end skin care products, Kiehl’s of New York has just opened up a Buenos Aires branch on the same block, bringing in their whole range of products direct from the Big Apple.

There are plenty of other shops to poke your head into along the way, but there are two musts to end your neighborhood stroll. For the obys, there’s simply no gayer design shop than Garçon García. Here the clothes are beyond trendy and you may need to use a fire extinguisher on the staff just to cut back on their flaming.

Meanwhile, the lesbian set, especially those with a true shoe fetish, have to end their walk at Lucila Iotti where some of the hottest designs in multi-textural footwear are on display in the teensiest of shops.

Outside of designer clothes, Buenos Aires is, of course, famous for its leather. The heart of the leather world, offering everything from clutch purses to full length dusters, is the three block wholesale leather district along Murillo Street. This is where you’ll find not only the best designs, but the best prices. Probably the best known shop for visitors is 666, conveniently located along the street at that same address.

If you’re looking for home furnishings and décor, by far the best spot to head is the Buenos Aires Design Center, located in the heart of old Recoleta. The design center is a two story complex containing a couple dozen shops, each specializing in one form or another of objets d’art for the home. If you reach the end of the shop till you drop day here, the upper level has a selection of restaurants, from the very casual Hard Rock Café to Primafila, one of the better Italian spots in the city and a renowned spot for celebrity watching.

ART = LIFE

Buenos Aires is known for its art and architecture, and there are wonderful museums and galleries throughout the city to explore. For those who simply want a taste of what the city has to offer, there’s a convenient strip of museums, sort our own Museum Mile, that begins at the Palais de Glace with its photo and plastic arts exhibits, generally with a historical and political bent; the Recoleta Cultural Center, a free multi-space museum cum gallery that hosts a regularly changing array of works by contemporary and classic Argentine artists; the Bellas Artes, or fine arts museum, with its stunning collection of 17th- to 19th-century European art; the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, a beautifully restored palace with each room decked out from a different colonial period, showing off the changing fashions of home design over the last two centuries; and MALBA, one of the finest private collections of modern and contemporary Latin American art. If you only have time to visit one museum, I highly recommend the Xul Solar museum – they say there’s a fine line between genius and madness, and this artist’s work may be one of the most amazing demonstrations of that truism.

Of course, you may prefer art that will end up on your walls at home. While there are galleries throughout the city, there is also one spot where some of the best are concentrated, the short, two-block Arroyo street on the edge of hte downtown area. Centered around the Sofitel hotel, this duo of blocks hosts galleries that contain everything from centuries’ old classic European art at places like Santo Stefano and Renoir, to contemporary galleries such as Palatina, Aldo de Souza, and the Holz that showcase local artists.

If antiquing and flea market wandering is more your style, you can’t miss the weekly Sunday afternoon outdoor market in San Telmo, centered around the Plaza Dorrego and stretching out along the main street of Defensa. During the week, the same Defensa street is home to some of the finest antique shops in the city, and an afternoon of browsing will likely net you something for your collection.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Masters of Food and Wine

Wednesday, December 3, 20080

Passport Magazine
December 2008

Masters of Food and Wine
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Masters of Food & Wine 2008It shouldn’t surprise anyone to find out that there are a whole lot of gay wine geeks and collectors in the world; and they were out in force at the Masters of Food and Wine 2008 in Buenos Aires. Upon arrival, I found myself amidst the swirl of hors d’oeuvres, flagons of wine, internationally acclaimed chefs, sommeliers, restaurateurs, and collectors who were willing to ante-up the air fare, hotel costs, and entrance fees-all of which added up to somewhere around $6,000.

The five-day extravaganza opened with a wine and cheese tasting at the Park Hyatt’s Palacio Duhau in Buenos Aires, a stunning, converted mansion that takes up half a city block. The Duhau’s staggered levels and twisting staircases gave a certain Escher air to the space. The courtyard and surrounding wine bar and salons were perfect for introductions and a chance to sample a range of some of Argentina’s most interesting cheeses and wines.

The next night’s “Rarities” dinner offered an exclusive group of wine gliterati tastes of treasures from the cellars of 25 Argentine wineries. Then next day it was off on flights to Mendoza, 700 miles west in the foothills of the Andes Mountains.

At the posh Park Hyatt on the town’s central plaza we kicked off a trio of days with a wine and hors d’oeuvres party, catered by two dozen chefs from all over the globe and wineries pouring hundreds of bottles, to a mere thousand attendees. The next two days passed by quickly as we broke up into smaller groups and headed out to Mendoza’s amazing countryside, each group visiting a trio of wineries per day, and dining our way through multi-course lunches and dinners cooked by the visiting culinary stars.

The event culminated with a Gala dinner back at the Park Hyatt where each of us vowed to return again next year.

The Masters of Food and Wine 2009 will be held February 10-15. For more information visit www.mfandw.com.ar

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Jamie Taylor

Tuesday, October 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 42 – October 2006
businessprofile – Jamie Taylor
Serendipity and hard work help when starting a business in a foreign country
Jamie TalorPacking up and moving to another city to start a new job is daunting enough for most folk. Some people go a little further. Jamie Taylor packed up and moved to a different hemisphere, 7,000 miles away. He left behind family, friends, and steady work for the gleam of an idea he’d put together with his new long distance boyfriend, someone whom he’d met on vacation a year earlier, and only kept in contact with via internet and phone since. He left behind a happy existence in a stable part of the world for complete unknowns in a country that was known for military coups, economic and political instability, and repeated military conflicts with his home country. [Flux Bar closed during the 2020 pandemic, and as of June 2021, Jamie returned to the UK.]

Some folks might think it was a mid-life crisis, but Jamie doesn’t see it that way. He may have been fulfilled in his longtime job in London as an HIV counselor, but he knew it wasn’t satisfying his long term goals and dreams of having his own business, less stress, and living with a man that he loved. When he met Ilia, a young Russian man who had been living in Buenos Aires for ten years, new things started to seem possible. Within a year he’d wrapped up all the loose ends he could think of, and was on a plane, winging his way to Argentina’s capital, trusting in a combination of fate and determination.

Looking back at things now, a couple of years later, he might have approached everything a bit differently. “I might have come down and spent some more time vacationing and getting to know the city, its ins and outs, and making a circle of friends. I might have talked to people I knew back in London about what it would be like to open my own business. I might even have spent some time checking out the bar scene in Buenos Aires before opening my own. Maybe, most importantly, I might have asked someone just how come no one had opened a bar like the one I imagined.”

Instead, somehow forefront in his mind was the idea that “Anyone can open and run a bar, it’s easy and not very stressful, and after all it’s just mixing drinks.” With those thoughts in mind, he pushed right into the fray. Noting that all the gay bars and clubs in the city seemed to be located out in the touristy or residential areas, he looked for space in the heart of the downtown financial district. Looking back, he remembers, “I thought I’d be able to attract the local and expatriate after-work crowd. None of the other bars and clubs were even open until at least ten at night, and lots of them not until midnight. I figured that gays and lesbians who wanted a drink and a place to hang out would love an early evening venue.”

He soon found a large space with plenty of room for a bar, a lounge area, and even a small dance floor. It was on a busy commercial street. It was also situated down a narrow concrete staircase, in the basement beneath a copy shop. It was close to all the things he’d thought about: the business district, many major tourist hotels and attractions, and it was easy to get to via subway or bus line. The building management didn’t seem to care what he wanted to do with the space, so he rented it, and jumped right into the renovation. On August 4th, 2005, he flung the doors open to the public, and Flux (Marcelo T. de Alvear, 980, www.fluxbar.com.ar) made its debut.

In most cities, opening a bar would prove to be a massive task – between licenses and insurance, various permits from building departments, health departments, and a legion of other bureaucratic entities. Buenos Aires, however, has limited legislation and regulation when it comes to opening a small business, and Taylor recalls, “The only inspectors I ran into were from the building department, who wanted to make sure I had my own public entrance, private garbage collection, and bathrooms. For the most part they stood there, pretty much with their hands out.” With Argentina’s depressed economy at the time, he was able to get up and running for what most business owners, especially bar owners, would think a pittance, 125,000 pesos, or just over $40,000, plus savings to live on until the bar reaches steady profitability, something it’s only just now beginning to achieve.

Gay bars have a notoriously hard time opening in many parts of the world, what with local politics, religious leaders, and often underworld shakedowns. Argentina, a strong Catholic country with a history of governmental, police, and criminal corruption, might have had those same problems, but to his surprise, Taylor found that the “gay” part of the bar was the least of his issues. Argentina’s constitution, written in 1853, has long (at least by letter of the law) guaranteed equality under the law for gays and lesbians. Civil unions have been legal for years [in Buenos Aires]. Gay marriage is a current proposal in the [city] legislature, expected to pass with relatively little opposition some time in 2007.

Flux BarFrom the beginning, it’s been a roller-coaster operation. Being new, it immediately attracted attention. Being open at a time of day when no other gay bar was, turned out to be a blessing and a curse. Taylor now says, “There were people who wanted a place to hang out with friends and drink after work, but there weren’t many of them. You know, Buenos Aires’ social culture is such that people often zip home from work and take a nap, like a late siesta, so that they can get up later and go to dinner at ten or eleven., followed by a few hours of clubbing, then a few hours of sleep, and back to work in the morning.” Jamie soon found himself catering more to a small crowd of tourists than locals. That made it hard to develop a regular clientele – the backbone of any bar business.

“I’ll try anything and everything,” he says. “I have art shows with the work of some local artists, both Argentines and ex-pats. We tried Tuesday evening gay tango lessons, Thursday language practice groups, opened up the lounge for meetings of the gay expat community, and now we’re trying late evening DJs on the weekends.” The scheduling is often erratic, as those hosting events change their plans at the last minute – a common occurrence in Buenos Aires.

As part of his plan to attract more customers, he offers a 2 for 1 early happy hour, something that isn’t common in this city. He’s also had to create some interesting specialty drinks, but first, as he points out, “Ilia and I had to learn how to bartend, period. Neither of us had any real previous experience running a bar, and mixing a G&T or pouring a beer for friends back in London wasn’t really enough. He found himself studying bar manuals and cocktail books, and he keeps a couple behind the bar to refer to when he gets stumped by a request. When he found that local liquor distributors only represented a few national and imported brands, he had to spend time searching out sources of different liquors and mixers, often purchased retail at small specialty shops or markets.

What is Jamie’s advice for other gay and lesbian entrepreneurs heading to Buenos Aires? “Have much more money than you think you’ll need! I figured out what my estimated costs would be and then added fifty percent. I wish I’d made it double, or even more. I’m still living on savings and putting everything we earn back into the bar.” He recommends making friends in the community you plan to serve, and finding out what it is that interests them. Get their input on your ideas, listen to their concerns, find out about their lifestyles, and figure out a way to implement your ideas in concert rather than at odds with those things. Otherwise, you might find yourself scrambling to make corrections that could have been easily addressed up-front. Also, find out everything you can about the business you plan to open, especially if it’s a change of career.

While his lack of training and experience in the bar world gave him fresh eyes and few preconceived notions about how to run a bar, it also left him with no practical idea how to go about it. “It was sheer luck that the economy here was ready for any kind of business investment, and that there are really no regulations, or you can easily ignore a lot of them; not that I’d recommend that. A lot of days I wish I’d found out these things before moving across the world.”

Would that have stopped him? “No, I needed a major change in my life. I wanted to be with Ilia, and I wanted an adventure.”

There’s no doubt he’s accomplished all that, in spades.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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World Eats – Buenos Aires

Wednesday, May 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 39 – May 2006

worldeats – Buenos Aires

tangoWith it’s broad avenues, classic European architecture, museums, theater, and arts, Buenos Aires easily deserves its moniker of “the Paris of South America.” Then again, it really deserves to stand on its own. The blend of European and native American tradition is unique in the city of more than 12 million people. While visually it may evoke much of Europe (Evita was filmed using Budapest as a backdrop!), the pace, sights, and sounds are rooted strongly in Latin America.

Restaurants, other than those catering specifically to tourists, tend to open mid to late evening – often not until 9 P.M. The range of cuisine available in Buenos Aires is vast, covering the world of food. This wasn’t true a few years ago, when the parrilla (grill, or steakhouse) or porteña (local style) restaurants were nearly all that you could find. While those certainly still dominate the scene (particularly in the central areas) it is not difficult to find food from around the globe. Locals have become far more adventurous in their dining tastes, and with the amazing exchange rate to the U.S. dollar or Euro, the demands of tourists and ex-pats for a more varied range has created a restaurant boom unlike anything in Buenos Aires since the early 20th century.

For dining well, Buenos Aires is one of the best bargain destinations in the world right now. It is easy to eat a very good meal (the equivalent of a two to three star restaurant) complete with decent wine, for $20 a person. There are many options below that price range in casual neighborhood venues and at many “ethnic” restaurants. It is also possible to splurge and spend double or triple that, but it will take some effort to do so.

carlos gardelESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL

Nothing is more internationally identified with Buenos Aires than tango. This sexy, sultry dance appears in films, on television, and is close to the heart of any local. If you’re going to spend time here, you need to experience it. The father of tango, in the sense that he brought it to the world, was Carlos Gardel. This eponymous restaurant is located in Once, the home of many tango schools, tango-related shopping, and also the center of inexpensive shopping for the city (think Lower East Side New York). The venue is the size of a theater, and that’s exactly what it is. You can go just for the show, or you can reserve for dinner and a show, which I highly recommend. You arrive between 8:30 and 9:30, earlier is slightly better as you’ll be less rushed to finish dinner before the 10 P.M. curtain time. The food is creative “international” style, and really quite good, especially considering that the half-dozen or so options for entrada, principale, y postre (appetizer, entrée, and dessert), are being served to several hundred people at the same time! The show is a wonderful mix of song and dance, primarily tango, some milonga (the even sexier “dance of the prostitutes”), and stretches for two to three hours. If you make a reservation through your hotel the restaurant even provides a shuttle service to and from (though given how inexpensive cabs are, you’re better off getting here on your own). You will spend a bit more than the average, but still, dinner (house wine included or you can bring your own) and show combined will only run you $60! Esquina Carlos Gardel, Carlos Gardel 3200, Once, 4867-6363. Reservations required. Open 7 days a week for dinner and show. www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

LA FAR+CIA (LA FARMACIA)

For the gay tourist this is a must. Located in San Telmo, Buenos Aires’ antique shopping district, this delightful little restaurant is gay-operated, pretty much gay-staffed, and a large percentage of the clientele is gay as well. The lounge downstairs is comfortable for a drink while the dining room upstairs is casual and nicely decorated. In good weather, there is a beautiful roof deck with a great view of the district. The cuisine is eclectic, creative takes on “porteña” (porteño or -a is what locals call themselves, meaning “port dweller.”) In terms of food, that tends to mean an Italian-influenced mix of classic parrilla grilled dishes plus pastas. La Far+cia also offers some nice vegetarian options. Service is friendly, and for this city, quite efficient. You will also probably get out of here with a full dinner for not much over $10. La Far+cia, Bolivar 898, corner of Estados Unidos, San Telmo, 4300-6151. No reservations. OpenTuesday through Sunday, dinner only. www.lafarmaciarestobar.com.ar

ROQUE

In general when searching for restaurants in any given city, I avoid the center of tourism. For port city San Francisco it’s Fisherman’s Wharf, while in New York it’s the South Street Seaport. Here in Buenos Aires, it’s Puerto Madero, a multi-block stretch of gleaming new residences, hotels, offices, and dozens of restaurants. I don’t avoid these areas because of lack of quality, but because generally, tourism equates to inflated cost. That’s true in Puerto Madero, but nonetheless, it is a neighborhood that is worth walking through, and here and there you can find a true gem. Roque is one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city. It’s quite large, seating well over a hundred people, but it’s extraordinarily comfortable. There’s a nice view of the port and plenty of people watching. The food is a mix of traditional and creative contemporary Italian. The staff are efficient, friendly, and multi-lingual. For visitors who want to relax and be taken care of, and be able to count on finding someone who can converse in English (not as common as you might think in a cosmopolitan city of this size), this is a great choice. It’s a little pricey (about $30 a person) but not outrageously so. Roque, Alicia Moreau de Justo 256, in Puerto Madero, 4315-6343. Reservations recommended at dinner, especially weekends. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. www.loderoque.com.ar

788 food bar788 FOOD BAR

One of the things I love finding is a restaurant that just wows me from the moment I walk in. It can be a variety of things, and this place seems to have them all: it’s beautifully designed in a modern yet very warm style, and it’s got multiple levels for everything from hanging out at the bar, to dining, to a private dining room, to a lounge. My one criticism: the English translations on the menu could use a lot of work. It’s located in the heart of Recoleta, an area where most tourists tend to spend a lot of time for the museums and galleries, and, of course, the famous Recoleta Cemetery. After laying flowers in front of Evita’s tomb and snapping a dozen or so photos, you’re going to need somewhere nearby to recover your energy. 788 offers some of the most creative, interesting food in the city. It’s not particularly any one cuisine, instead taking elements from a wide range. It may be one of Buenos Aires’ few true “fusion” restaurants. The food is beautifully presented, the service is friendly and professional (not to mention attractive). The pricing is extraordinary for the quality of the food you get here. 788 Food Bar, Areneales 1877, in Recoleta, 4814-4788. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open for breakfast and lunch Monday – Friday, Saturday Brunch, and dinner Monday – Saturday. www.788foodbar.com.ar

MirandaMIRANDA

Several local friends had asserted that this parrilla was a must, one or two even claimed it was likely the best parrilla in the city. Atmosphere-wise, it’s certainly the most energetic, exciting steakhouse I’ve visited. The style is modern industrial, with high vaulted ceilings and painted concrete walls. Decor is minimal, tables are large and comfortable, and one entire wall is dominated by an open kitchen. The staff is young, attractive, and multilingual as, for the most part, is the clientele. The quality of the food coming out of the kitchen is quite good. Is it the best steak in the city? No. But it’s certainly well above the norm. There’s a tendency to be a little arty with the plating, but that fits the venue. They’re also very accommodating when it comes to special requests. The desserts are fantastic. The pricing is quite reasonable for the quality. If you’re looking for a steakhouse that isn’t a stodgy, white-tablecloth venue with older, bored waiters, Miranda is, indeed, a must. Miranda, Costa Rica 5602, corner of Fitz Roy, in Palermo, 4771-4255. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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World Eats – Brooklyn

Monday, November 3, 20030

Passport Magazine
Issue 19 – November 2003

worldeats – Brooklyn

In the late 1970s, the show Welcome Back Kotter used to open up with a sign that said “Welcome to Brooklyn, the 4th largest city in America”. In 1982, when I first moved to New York (and lived in Brooklyn) Mark-Linn Baker in My Favorite Year refers to Brooklyn as a far away country. More recently, rumors of worthwhile dining venues reached us on the isle of Manhattan, and we ventured back to explore.

To paraphrase Douglas Adams, Brooklyn is big. I mean it’s really big. At 72.5 square miles, with a population of 2.5 million, and divided into numerous neighborhoods, some large enough to be small towns themselves, there’s plenty of room for some good restaurants. Prior to the 1600s, virtually this entire city, a county in itself (Kings County), was marshland and woodland. Over three centuries it was gradually built up and populated, until becoming an official borough of New York City on January 1, 1898.

Since most visitors to New York City, and most Manhattan dwellers, have a somewhat dim view of “the outer boroughs”, I decided not to venture to far from those shores. Picking the neighborhoods that are close by might mean I could actually entice someone to cross the East River and sit down to dine.

The area known as Park Slope remained rural until the 1860s when adjacent Prospect Park was completed. In 1883, with the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge, building took off in this neighborhood, with beautiful brownstone row houses lining the streets. In the 1970s, this area became the new “hotspot” to move to, especially for the gay and lesbian community, a trend that continues to this day.

Our first venue of choice is a small French bistro, Moutarde. Frenchman Arnaud Giberszcajn noted that there was a severe lack of bistros in the neighborhood and opened up this now popular spot in early 2002. Located along the main stretch of Fifth Avenue, Moutarde is a beautifully appointed little bôite. Tile work and carved wood adorn the walls, a floor to ceiling stocked bar dominates the front, and the owners have added delightful touches – like a huge baker’s rack for bread service in the center and an antique cappucino machine in the rear. In fitting with the name, Moutarde specializes in the omnipresent condiment mustard. At Moutarde, however, you won’t find it on a hot dog. It shows up in many guises – in an adorable crudité set on an artist’s palette with each of the divots holding a different style – from sweet honey-mustard to fiery hot wasabi-mustard. Standout dishes include a layered tartare of salmon, tuna, salmon roe, caviar, and mustard infused crème fraîche; sautéed skate in balsamic and caper sauce; and pork chops with apples and cabbage. Our waiter described the tarte tatin as the best he’s ever had outside of France, and we had to agree. Moutarde, 239 Fifth Avenue. Tel: 718-623-3600. N or R train to Union Street/Fourth Avenue stop, walk one block east to Fifth Avenue and one block south along Fifth. Cash, Visa & Mastercard only.

Developed in the mid-1800s after ferry service was established from Manhattan, Boerum Hill is a neighborhood that is contiguous with the downtown Brooklyn area. Originally named after the colonial farm of a local Dutch family, over the last decade this area has become a trendy spot to open avant-garde restaurants. You can find an array of these at Smith Street’s multi-block restaurant row.

There we found Restaurant Saul, overseen by chef/owner Saul Bolton, formerly of the Le Bernardin kitchen. Brick walls, a backlit wooden bar, tasteful floral arrangements and comfortable seating are a big attraction in this fifty seat space. It is also obvious that attention to detail is appreciated here; every menu has a cover with individually drawn sketches, and diners are illumined by subtle, flattering lighting. More importantly, conscientiousness pours over into the dining experience. I was initially drawn here after being told that it had one of the better wine lists in Brooklyn. While not lengthy, it is well thought out and quite fairly priced, as is the menu. Starting with a beet tartare that was everything it should be, dinner proceeded through a range of tasty delights. Favorites were the duck confit with a refreshing bean and vegetable gordita on the side and an arctic char seared to perfection. The lemon tart for dessert was just lemony enough, the cheesecake was unusual but quite good. Restaurant Saul, 140 Smith Street. Tel: 718-935-9844. F train to Bergen Street/Smith Street stop, go out at the Bergen Street end, walk around the corner onto Smith and the restaurant is right there. Cash and major credit cards.

While it was founded in 1927, Williamsburg did not become a residential neighborhood until the opening of the eponymous bridge in 1903. Quickly becoming densely overpopulated by the “working class”, it has always been a somewhat “suspect” area, but the ease of access from Manhattan (first and second subway stops on the 14th street cross-town L), not to mention the bridge, made it one of the first expansion neighborhoods when the East Village became trendy enough to overprice itself. It has also established itself as home to some delightful casual restaurants, such as Fada, on Driggs Avenue.

Visiting on a Monday evening, we found the place packed to the rafters with diners and drinkers alike. With a limited menu, limited wine list, and limited service, one would think to dine here would require a mindset of willingness to accept mediocrity. Luckily, Fada rises above that, and despite those limitations, delivers quality food at a good price. To our surprise, Fada’s escargots in garlic sauce did not consist of half a dozen small specimens to be picked out of the shell, but more than two dozen deliciously garlicky sea dwellers already removed from the shell, ready to be quickly and eagerly devoured. A charcuterie platter was graced by a divine selection of meats. The coq au vin and cassoulet were exactly as the gods of French cuisine intended them. After an inexpensive, but perfectly drinkable bottle of wine, we left quite satisfied for less than only one of us would have spent on the other side of the river. Fada, 530 Driggs Avenue. Tel: 718-388-6607. L train to Bedford Avenue and get out at the Driggs Avenue end, walk north one block to North 8th Street. Cash and major credit cards.

We returned to another section of Park Slope to drop in on Darrin Siegfried’s hot new wine shop, Red, White & Bubbly – a must the next time you’re wandering the “strip” along 5th Avenue. He strongly recommended a visit to Bistro Saint Marks. The chef, Johannes Sanzin, is a David Bouley protégé who struck out on his own a few years ago and has had several semi-successful casual spots in Manhattan. It seems that here in Brooklyn he has found his niche.

Sanzin turns out some of the more creative French-based cuisine I’ve seen in the last few years, and dish after dish was beautifully presented, flavorful, and satisfying. Some favorites included a mushroom salad with herbs, asian pear and walnuts; red snapper with Roquefort sauce; caramelized scallops with tagliatelle and a tomato-coriander sauce; and for dessert a strawberry mascarpone genoise. Bistro Saint Marks also offers some great special evenings, including a four-course tasting menu for a mere $25 on Mondays, a seafood and raw bar on Tuesdays, and a selection of steaks on Wednesdays. Bistro Saint Marks, 76 St. Mark’s Avenue (at 6th Avenue). Tel: 718-857-8600. Q train to 7th Avenue/Flatbush Avenue stop, walk one block north along Flatbush to 6th Avenue, the restaurant is on the little triangle formed by all three streets.

The area known as Fort Greene was named after Revolutionary War general Nathaniel Greene. Home to beautiful brownstones and expansive parks, the neighborhood is probably best known as the home of Pratt Institute and the Brooklyn Academy of Music.

passportbrooklyn1Billing itself as “New York’s only South African restaurant”, Madiba has food that is worthy of a trip across the Atlantic. The decor can only be described as “eclectic” – an odd, unmatched collection of art, bric-a-brac, and vibrant colors. Service is warm, friendly, efficient, and probably crosses a few personal boundaries – but that’s half the fun. Much like the decor, the menu seems to be an unexpected collection of oddities. A platter of bean salad, potato salad, and Greek salad, while delicious, seems strangely out of place among dishes like a “safari platter” of dried fruits, nuts and meats, but still worth a taste. Particularly good choices include an appetizer of chilled curried fish with pumpkin fritters, oxtail stew, and what may be the best barbecued ribs in all of New York City. Don’t mind the claim that they’re basted with “monkey gland” – it’s a traditional sauce for barbecuing that doesn’t involve primates. A butterscotchy Malva Pudding may not have quite brought on the orgasmic delight promised by our waitress, but it was a great finish to a fun meal. Madiba, 195 DeKalb Avenue. Tel: 718-855-9190, 2 or 3 train to Fulton Mall, or Q train to DeKalb/Flatbush, walk east along DeKalb to the restaurant, approximately 8-10 minutes. Cash and major credit cards. www.madibaweb.com

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Exploring South Australia

Thursday, April 3, 20030

Passport Magazine
Issue 15 – April 2003

GLOBETROTTING – Exploring South Australia

thornpark1If your idea of an Australian vacation is hanging out at the 24/7 gay bars of Sydney’s Oxford Street then South Australia is not for you. For my money, a vacation means getting away from the hustle and bustle and need to constantly do things, and the wine and hill country of the Clare and Barossa Valleys is a great option. I’m seriously into food, wine, and true relaxation, so I naturally put South Australia on my “must do” list. Exploring wineries, small farms, wildlife parks, and the countryside are just a few of the things that await the intrepid traveler.

I started my vacating by winging my way into Adelaide. Flights from the United States tend to connect through Melbourne or Sydney. You can also arrive by rail from either of those stopovers. The city proper is a square mile of only about 40,000 people, ringed by a manicured parkland. Just across a small river, North Adelaide is half the size and is the center of the main historic district with many beautiful homes and buildings worth exploring. Overall, Adelaide’s suburbs take up 140 square miles, populated by over a million people.

There are many places to stay in Adelaide, from small boutique hotels to modern luxury towers. Two places that exemplify this spectrum are The Embassy, a new luxury apartment tower on the North Terrace (www.pacifichotelscorporation.com.au), and the quirky Fire Station Inn in North Adelaide. The latter is a converted firehouse that rates five stars in most travel guides with huge, well appointed rooms, and, for the ground floor unit, a restored antique fire engine parked in the bedroom (www.adelaideheritage.com/firestation.html). This conjured up some interesting fantasies for me, as I never outgrew wanting to be a fireman.

A day or two to explore this city with its beautiful art museums, lively pub scene, and many fine dining restaurants gets the ball rolling. I spent a morning wandering the Central Market and its many food shops, including “Stall 55” that sells reasonably authentic “bush tucker” (indigenous Australian foods). I also viewed some of the more fascinating indigenous peoples’ exhibits at both the South Australian Museum and the Tandanya Art Gallery. If you’d like a truly personalized tour of the city and its bounty, touch base with Tourabout Adelaide where they can set you up with an individual guide. (www.touraboutadelaide.com.au)

Before long it was time to drop in at the Universal Wine Bar and have a glass or two of the local vino. One of Australia’s most famous chefs works the range at The Grange, a haute cuisine establishment that serves a unique tasting menu of love it or hate it fare. If you’re interested in a modern take on many of the unique ingredients of the Australian outback, drop in for dinner at Red Ochre, a floating restaurant on Torrens Lake, just off the North Terrace.

Perfect timing would have your visit coincide with Adelaide’s famed Feast. This is a gay and lesbian extravaganza of cultural, political and social events that takes place over a month-long period in late October and early November. Whether it’s a discussion group on gender identity, a picnic in the park, an evening of music, or a stunning drag show, everything and everyone is included. (www.feast.org.au)

natwinecenterBefore heading out to the countryside, a mandatory stop is the National Wine Centre of Australia which features a fascinating interactive museum dedicated to fermented grape juice and the people who make it. While there, drop in for a glass or two and a bite at de Castella’s, the Centre’s delightful restaurant. In a fun reversal of typical menus, this one lists the wines available by the glass and offers some suggested pairings of dishes that the chef can whip up.

When visiting the wine country you will need to rent a car, and keep in mind that whole driving on the wrong side of the road thing. My introduction to some of Australia’s finest white wines, especially those made from Riesling, begins in Clare Valley. Most wineries here have tasting rooms, and some even have organized tours. I found some of the more fascinating happenings at the smaller venues like Mount Horrock’s, Grosset, and Knappstein, but don’t neglect the bigger wineries where there might be a chance to sample a bigger selection.

thornpark2There are two absolutely delightful places I recommend for accommodation in Clare Valley. The first, gay owned and operated Thorn Park Country House, is located in the Sevenhill area. Long-time partners David Hay and Michael Speers have put together one of the coolest guest houses at which you’ll ever stay. Beautifully furnished and appointed private rooms are located in a century and half old homestead on 65 acres of rolling hills. Here you can kick back and relax, or take advantage of art and cooking classes offered on site. Deliciously prepared breakfast and dinner are included in the package. (www.thornpark.com.au)

The second place is the gorgeous 19th century Martindale Hall. A perfectly restored and maintained museum home, the rooms are available for rental packages for individuals or small groups. As an active museum, you’ll have to vacate the premises during the day (your belongings safely stowed away), but come evening, dinner is served in formal manor style, and the classic rooms are prepared for sleeping like a nobleman or noblewoman. (www.martindalehall.com)

After enjoying some of the pleasures of Clare Valley, take a short drive over the hills to the Barossa Valley. Here Shiraz is king, and some of Australia’s best examples are available. I wouldn’t dream of missing the tasting rooms at Peter Lehmann, Henschke and Kilikanoon for award winning representatives of the class. Lunch at the famed Bridgewater Mill affords samples of some of the best modern Australian fare in the South. For a Mediterranean-Australian fusion, the Vintner’s Bar & Grill is a great choice.

To arrange an individually planned tour of the region, with a focus on food and wine, contact A Taste of South Australia (www.tastesa.com.au). Whether it’s driving, cycling, hiking or even a private limousine, you can’t beat having people who know the right connections on your team.

If you have the time and feel adventurous, there are other wine regions to explore, including McLaren Vale and the other “Southern Vales“, the Adelaide Hills, Coonawarra and many more. For more information about South Australia visit www.southaustralia.com

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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World Eats – Sydney

Monday, March 3, 20030

Passport Magazine
Issue 14 – March 2003

WORLD EATS – SYDNEY

Sydney is currently one of the exciting places for dining on the planet. Chefs and foodies alike are exploring brave new frontiers of cuisine using amazing seafood, pristine produce and unique native herbs and spices. With the wide range of cultures that call Sydney home, from Greek, Italian and Dutch to virtually every southeastern Asian ethnicity, the horizon seems limitless.
The Australian dollar currently runs close to two-to-one to the American dollar, so dining out may look initially like it’s just as expensive as dining out in New York, L.A. or San Francisco, but in reality is costing only about half.

[This was deleted from the final print article, and I want to include it here:

As long as you’re headed Sydney-side for luxury Modern Australian dining you may as well put yourself up in some great digs. The Contemporary Hotels group offers two great options right in the heart of Darlinghurst, on the edge of the main gay neighborhood. The Kirketon is all sleek, modern design with grey tones, chrome and splashes of bold color. Every detail has been thought out, right down to matching charcoal grey bars of soap! One of the hippest bars in the neighborhood, and one of the best new restaurants round out the package.

The Medusa is perfect for the business traveller who wants to unwind a bit. A converted, fashionable, eighteen room space that caters to every need. A private business lounge, courtyard fountain with chairs and tables to relax in, and rated one of the “coolest hotels of the 21st Century”, this is a don’t miss option. (www.contemporaryhotels.com.au) ]

Roughly ten years ago I had the opportunity to spend a month exploring the Sydney dining scene with some of the new, up-and-coming chefs on the food scene. A decade later, these chefs are at the forefront of the best restaurants down under. With maturity has come a level of attention to detail and a flowering of fine cuisine.

One note on dining out in Australia, even in a cosmopolitan city like Sydney. Many restaurants are open very short hours, often taking reservations only from 6:00 to 8:30 p.m., with only one seating per table; and don’t count on much in the way of late night dining at most of the tonier restaurants.

passportsydneyariaARIA
Dining at Aria is as much an experience in atmosphere as anything else. Located on the second level of the far point end of East Circular Quay, from one side you have a fantastic panorama of Sydney Harbour and from the other an amazing view of the famed Sydney Opera House. The food is beautifully presented and thoughtfully prepared. You won’t find anything outlandish or challenging, but you will have an exquisite meal.

Two of the starters, a Peking duck consomme with wontons, abalone, enokii and mustard sprouts, and a boudin of quail stuffed with lumps of Balmain bug meat were outstanding. The winelist is extensive, well considered, and overseen by a staff of three young, completely competent sommeliers who, if you take their advice, will only heighten your dining experience. 1 Macquarie Street, 612-9252-2555. www.ariarestaurant.com

LONGRAIN
Several times while dining out in Sydney, chefs and and restaurateurs had told me to check out the “scene” at Longrain. Situated on a back street near Hyde Park, this cavernous space is devoted to chef Martin Boetz’ unique interpretations of southeast Asian cuisine. The space seats probably close to 150 people, half of them at long communal tables or bars. On a Saturday night, with many restaurants barely half full, Longrain was packed to the rafters. Nonetheless, the speed with which people drink, dine and depart was quite astonishing, and seating opened up quickly.

A moderately priced menu of delights like grilled octopus with pineapple, mint and chilies, and roasted chicken in tangelo caramel, was perfect for late night dining (one of the exceptions to the rule here). Small starters like fresh scallops grilled right on the shell, or smoked ocean trout and roe on betel leaves make a great beginning. A nicely selected winelist with a short, but good range of wines by the glass complemented the meal. 85 Commonwealth Street, 612-9280-2888.

QUAY EAST CHINESE
Being so close to southeast Asia, Australia is home to many ex-pats from that continent. Some truly outstanding chefs have made their mark on Sydney’s food scene. Quay East Chinese has a trio of them putting out some of the best Cantonese food you can find in the city. That doesn’t begin to take into account the spectacular setting along East Circular Quay in Sydney Harbour, with unobstructed, unparalleled views of the Harbour Bridge.

You can dine inexpensively if you order a simple dish or two and just relax, but if you want a truly outstanding experience order from some of the top banquet dishes. Amazing dishes from local fish can be prepared in your choice of classic Cantonese preparations. A two pound abalone showed up at our table sliced paper thin and stir-fried in just a touch of oil with snowpeas. This was unquestionably one of the most sublime shellfish dishes I’ve had in years, and unquestionably the best abalone I’ve ever had. Shop 8, 1 Macquarie Street, 612-9252-6868.

passportsydneyrockpoolROCKPOOL
Okay, a decade ago Neil Perry was already a star. He was also a bit of an enfant terrible, and many of his dishes showed more boldness than refinement. Over the years he has opened and closed other restaurants, written books, hosted a fantastic cooking show, produced his own CD’s to cook by, planning Qantas airlines menus, and generally just been all over the food scene. Rockpool has survived, thrived, and quite recently, been completely renovated.

Opened in 1989, Rockpool is sleek, chic and sexy and the perfect showcase for someone with Chef Perry’s enthusiasm and skill. His signature “flavours from the sea”, small samplings of amazing sashimi each with their own accompaniment, is legend. Squid ink pappardelle with grilled squid, a Middle-Eastern style Yllarra lamb, and his signature date tart are must haves. A daily tasting menu, with optional paired wines, and one of Sydney’s more interesting winelists are all part of the game plan. 107 George Street, The Rocks, 612-9252-1888. www.rockpool.com

SALT
When I was last here, Luke Mangan was a budding new chef who had just joined the Sydney dining scene after taking time out to work in Europe. He worked under three Michelin star chef Michael Roux for nearly two years after having served his apprenticeship under one of South Australia’s finest chefs. In early 1999 he opened Salt in The Kirketon hotel to critical acclaim.

At Salt, Chef Mangan puts out intricate, off-beat combinations that are unexpected and completely tantalizing. Soft-poached quail eggs rolled in celery salt and brown sugar launch a meal that includes amazing dishes like roasted barramundi (a native fish) with basil and preserved lemon risotto, seared scallops in spicy coconut broth, cornmeal and chili crusted marrons (large freshwater crayfish) with cauliflower puree and star-anise broth, nori-wrapped tempura of quail topped with a sesame-wasabi sauce and a stunning finish of licorice parfait in fresh lime syrup. Salt also boasts a fantastic winelist and a great tasting menu with an option for paired wines. 229 Darlinghurst Road, 612-9332-2566. www.saltrestaurant.com.au

TETSUYA’S
There are certain chefs on the planet who the powers that be have blessed with talents above and beyond ordinary mortals. Sydney is blessed with one of these, Tetsuya Wakuda. A decade ago, in a forty-seat hole-in-the-wall in suburban Sydney, Tetsuya’s was the most impossible restaurant to get into. There he drew chefs, foodies, and press from the world over, all competing for the limited seating that was available. Two years ago he purchased a two story building with multiple dining rooms in downtown Sydney. Possibly the handsomest restaurant I’ve ever set foot in, the two main dining areas and the bar-lounge flank a stunning Japanese garden and pool. It’s still probably the hardest reservation you’ll ever try to make.

The wine program is not only one of the best I’ve seen in Australia, it is extraordinarily thought out in relation to the food. Tetsuya’s cuisine is a fusion of Japanese and French. The only option is for a degustation menu, which is alterable to fit dietary considerations. The food is sublime and elegant, featuring simple yet amazingly creative flavors. We managed twenty courses that included plump pink Tasmanian oysters in mirin-ginger sauce, chestnut, mushroom and truffle consomme, kingfish sushi with orange jelly, confit of ocean trout with fennel salad, and grilled filet of veal with sea urchin-wasabi butter. 529 Kent Street, 612-9267-2900.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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After Theater Dining

Thursday, October 3, 20020

Passport Magazine
Issue 11 – October 2002

After Theater Dining

Want to go to dinner and a show? I find that a difficult proposition. When I’ve worked all day, I want to go home, shower, relax for a little while, put on clean clothes, and then go out. Since I’m fond of having dinner be a leisurely affair, there’s just not enough time for dinner before theater. So, for me, it’s a show and then dinner. A little snack before curtain and then after the standing ovation, a chance to relax and discuss, toast, and nibble.

When considering what to recommend, I set out with some simple criteria. First, the restaurant has to be open late enough that I don’t feel like I have to rush to get there, nor do I feel like the staff are just hovering around waiting for me to leave. Second, the kitchen must be offering a regular dinner menu, not some sort of leftover “late night” dining selection. Third, I didn’t want to review places that are institutions in the late night dining scene.

That left out some old favorites like Raoul’s, the Odeon and Café Luxembourg. It also left out the theater district haunts like Sardi’s and Joe Allen’s. I sat down with a few friends in the business and we came up with our short list of favorites for late-night dining.

THEATER DISTRICT

Cinnabar is the hottest thing to happen this year to the Asian restaurant scene in New York. It has everything you could want in a restaurant of the genre: a gorgeous room with fantastic designer touches; a well-appointed, comfortable bar and lounge area; and an outdoor dining section that is set-up like a small secluded park.

Despite being decked out in sexy black shirts, the staff are knowledgeable and friendly, with no attitude. They know the food, they know the drinks, and they’re happy to offer advice. Consultant Geri Banks has put together a delicious selection of specialty cocktails, any of which provide the perfect way to begin relaxing post-show. She has also done a great job with an eclectic wine list, offering them by flavor categories that zero in on the qualities each brings to the glass.

passporttheatercinnabarThe food is Chinese, but not limited to any particular region. Szechuan and Hunan square off opposite Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. The food is beautifully presented and even better as you dig into it. Prepare to eat too much, it’s just that good. Don’t miss the Roasted Cashew Nut Chicken and the Spicy XO Lobster.

Cinnabar, 235 West 56th Street (8th Avenue), 212-399-1100. Open noon until midnight, Monday through Saturday, noon until 11 p.m. on Sundays.

Seppi’s is the theater district sibling of the classic late night bistro, Raoul’s. Unlike the latter, which serves classic, hearty, French bistro fare, Seppi’s puts a modern twist on a variety of French dishes. Chef Claude Alain Solliard has an affinity for Alsatian cuisine, but is no slouch when covering the rest of the countryside.

passporttheaterseppisThe room is classic old-style pub, and despite having only been open for four years, has the look of a venue that has graced the block for decades. Located in the Parker Meridien Hotel, this may be the neighborhood’s best bistro. The front area is a polished wooden bar with tables and booths, the rear area is a slightly more lavish dining room with an attractive stained glass ceiling.

The winelist is limited, but has some interesting and unusual country wines from lesser known regions of France. The food is simply presented and delightful. You cannot pass up the broiled escargot served on crispy rosemary flat bread. Dump them out of the shell onto the bread and just munch happily away. The Alsatian pizzas on the same flat bread are well worth sampling. Go with the classic dishes and enjoy the updated twists, they are where the chef shines.

Seppi’s, 118 West 56th Street (6th Avenue), 212-708-7444, www.seppis.com. Open 11:30 a.m. until 2 a.m. Monday through Friday, 5:30 p.m. until 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday.

As I write this, it is early August and I’ve already decided on my “meal of the year”. Esca is the acclaimed fish restaurant owned by the partnership (bordering on empire) of the Bastianich and Batali families (Felidia, Becco, Babbo, Lupa, Lidia’s, the Italian Wine Merchant, and the Bastianich Winery). This venue is impeccably managed by the Bastianich’s longtime friend and manager, Simon Dean.

The room is simple and homey. Previously home to the family’s never quite successful Frico Bar, they’ve finally hit their stride. Sit yourself down at the classic bar that includes a well-priced, great selection of Italian wines and spirits, and an excellent raw bar. When your table is ready, prepare for the real treat.

Chef David Pasternak puts out simple, clean preparations of some of the freshest fish you will have in Manhattan. Start with a sampling of the “crudo”, the Italian version of sushi. Pristine slices of fish, each paired with a drizzling of selected olive oils, vinaigrettes, and an astonishing collection of sea salts (Red clay salt? Lava salt? Who knew?) grace your plate. Move on to a well-prepared pasta, and finish off with perfectly roasted fish with oil and herbs or a simple tapenade.

Esca, 402 West 43rd Street (9th Avenue), 212-564-7272. Lunch Monday through Friday from noon until 2:30 p.m., Dinner Sundays and Mondays until 10:30 and Tuesday through Saturday until 11:30 p.m.

OFF-BROADWAY

My first experience of Jane was shortly after they opened a year or two ago. It was for lunch, in spring, and we were the only customers there. We had a delicious lunch, and I hoped for their sake that the place would catch on. It has, and now Jane can justify staying open until the wee hours.

The room is done in “oversize”. There are large mirrors and paintings on the walls, the ceilings are high, the banquettes low, the tables high. You have a feeling that you’re sitting somewhere impressive, especially when the room is full and the noise volume high. When it quiets down you can feel a tad small, but the food and drink will take your attention away from any misgivings.

passporttheaterjaneThe food is, for lack of a better term, experimental American. The regular menu items, tried and true, show the mettle of the chef. Start with one of the flatbread selections, move on to the fantastic ahi tuna and pineapple roll, and finish off with any one of the well prepared entrees. The daily specials are hit and miss, but that’s what experimentation is all about, and even the misses are fun to try. A short but really well selected winelist and some quite good specialty cocktails round out the experience.

Jane, 100 West Houston Street (between Thompson Street & LaGuardia Place), 212-254-7000. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, until 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

There has been a recent trend in New York to offer “wood-burning oven” food. Several really good restaurants, like Beacon and Five Points have earned excellent reputations for their offerings. Peasant is an unlikely candidate to join their ranks, being located about as out of the way as one can be in Manhattan on the Lower East Side. Nonetheless, don’t let the location scare you away, as this trendy little dive is putting out some of the best food in its class.

The room is definitely not what you’re there for. Sparsely and not particularly comfortably furnished, with a look like a not-quite-finished loft space. As one of my best friends would put it, “I see they’ve spared every expense on the decor”. Still, the room is somehow warm and inviting, and the smattering of well-known chefs having dinner on their nights off is an immediate, positive draw. The waitstaff is as disheveled as the room, but thoroughly charming and completely at ease with the menu.

Chef Frank DeCarlo’s food is simple and amazing. Working from an open kitchen, his team puts out well flavored, hearty fare, that will keep you coming back. Don’t miss faves are the roast sardines, a pizza that will transport you to southern Italy, and the chicken stuffed with sausage. The winelist is appropriately selected and well laid out, you won’t have any trouble picking a winner to pair with your feast.

Peasant, 194 Elizabeth Street (between Spring and Prince Streets), 212-965-9511. Dinner only, Monday through Saturday from 6 p.m. until midnight, Sundays until 10 p.m.

I was not prepared to like Industry (food). The name seemed pretentious, the location, in the now trendy East Village seemed selected just for effect, and the look as you step inside is one of a carefully choreographed treehouse for a magazine layout. You’re not sure if you should touch anything. The staff at the entrance have that Sex and the City new restaurant attitude down cold. The place is as slick as their website, and both turn out to be worth the visit.

The bar is sleek, polished wood, and peopled by a mix of East Village locals and hip, uptown folk “slumming”, but being careful not slum somewhere that is, well, a slum. The hostesses will guide you downstairs to a table, where, miraculously, the whole world changes. The waitstaff, if slightly spacey, is warm and welcoming. They don’t know much about the food, but they know it’s good, and they’re right.

The food is probably best described as eclectic. It’s the kind of food that chefs cook for themselves and friends when they sit down late night after service. They want something simple and clean, but intelligently thought out. Not unexpected when you find out that Chef Alex Freij worked for both Jean-Louis Palladin and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and co-owner Chris Eddy likewise worked for Jean-Georges at Mercer Kitchen.. The lobster bruschetta is a winner, as is the lamb with tomato marmalade.

Industry (food), 509 East 6th Street (between Avenues A and B), 212-777-5920, www.industryfood.com. Open for dinner only, until 2 a.m. Sunday through Thursday. Listed hours on Friday and Saturday are until 3 a.m., but the dining room sort of gets turned into a lounge after midnight.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

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