Santé

Read Any Good Wine Lists Lately?

Tuesday, November 5, 20020

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November 2002
Page 22

Read Any Good Wine Lists Lately?

Dan Perlman is the beverage director for the three-star restaurant AZ and the new Pazo in New York City. He is also the food and wine editor and a regular contributor to Q San Francisco and Passport magazines.

Dan Perlman is the beverage director for the three-star restaurant AZ and the new Pazo in New York City. He is also the food and wine editor and a regular contributor to Q San Francisco and Passport magazines.

I like nothing better than to sit down to dinner and having a wine list put in front of me. I’m even more delighted when I see that its author thought about making it an interesting read. I enjoy reading quotes and quips and seeing artwork and classy design. I like interesting categories that aren’t just a formal listing of appellations.

The J. Peterman Principle
The purpose of a wine list is to present a catalog of offerings for sale to your guests. When was the last time you paid attention to a catalog that didn’t spark your interest? A boring catalog or wine list is fine for looking up information when you already know what you want, but not when you don’t. Try imagining the Land’s End catalog with no pictures or descriptions: just a listing of product code, product name, fabric type, country of origin, and price. Sound familiar?

In most restaurants there is no sommelier. When there is, he or she doesn’t visit every table. And, to put it bluntly, not everyone dining wants to talk to the sommelier. Surprise – some diners actually want to pick their own wine! So how do you go about dispensing your brilliant advice without actually being at the table?

Wine Words
Think about how you describe wine when you are at a table. Do you start by enquiring if your customer wants “a wine from a small commune just south of Beaune?” Probably not. More likely, their food choices are your starting point. Or maybe you like to being by finding out if they want something lighter or fuller, younger or older, richer or poorer … or by playing on their mood that evening.

Plan your list around categories that harmonize with how you would approach your customers when standing at the table. In other words, put wines together that you would naturally group together in your mind when you’re talking. It allows your customers to see how you, representing your restaurant, think about wine. And, if you do approach their table, you’re set-up for an easy entry into the conversation.

Two wine lists I’ve seen recently do this job well: one at a fairly new Chinese restaurant has categories that contrast – Tart Fruit versus Red Fruit, or Black Fruit; the other puts wines into easy-to-understand categories such as “bright, sunny, citrusy” and “rich, dark, earthy.”

Consider adding some descriptions to the categories, or, if you have a relatively short list, to individual wines. Avoid long “geeky” narratives with arcane references to such things as “day-old tiger lily pollen” or “melanges of wortleberries and cloudberries with a hint of wet reindeer fur.” Long-winded explications will keep the host reading for extended periods of time and make the experience boring for the other people at the table (unless they don’t want to talk to the host!). Try simple, two- to four-word quips that mirror how you would initially respond if someone asked you about the wine.

The list I mentioned above with tart, red, and black fruit, further described each with a sub-heading. For example, the tart fruit section listed “apple, green grape, citrus” as the dominant flavors.

List Layout
Give thought to the layout of your list. Is the font type and size you’re using easy to read? How about the paper color? Given the lighting in your dining room, is the wine list still easy to read? Does its cover design match the restaurant’s style and focus? Call on your colleagues for their input.

Above all, remember that your primary goal is to sell wine. If you can make the difference between printed page and your sparkling conversation as seamless as possible, you’ll start selling wine even when you’re not there.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Building a Relationship with the Kitchen

Tuesday, March 5, 20020

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
March/April 2002
Page 28

FROM THE CELLAR
Building a Relationship with the Kitchen

The “front-of-house” and “back-of-house” staff are in the restaurant business for different reasons. In general, cooks put in longer hours for less pay than waitstaff and managers. Their rewards are enjoying the pleasures of the creative process and knowing that they put out a quality product. Waiters and managers get paid for delivering it to and interacting with the public.

While most chefs I have worked with have an interest in wine, they have neither the time nor inclination to invest in wine education for themselves or their staff. They argue that there is more than enough to learn within their own sphere of ingredients, techniques, and frequently changing menus.

AN OPEN INVITATION

So how does a beverage director gain the needed support of the kitchen in putting together a winning program? In a word, inclusion. “I just wanted to be asked” is a phrase I have heard over and over again in my restaurant career. When I was a chef, I used to say it, too!

To begin the interaction, start with the basics. Every day quality restaurants have a lineup with the front-of-house staff. For me, part of that time is spent discussing a topic related to the beverage program – a review of the house spirits, or a comparison tasting or a sampling of new wines. The kitchen staff are always welcome to attend. Do they? Rarely. But they know they can; they’ve been asked.

We have a monthly wine class that is mandatory for front-of-house employees. On occasion we stay late at night to taste sample bottles. I try to arrange those events at a time when the back-of-house staff can attend as well. Some of them do. All of them can. They’ve been asked.

When I open wine, or when my staff opens wine, I expect us all to taste it. My view is that the customer should never get a taste of a bad wine; it is our job, not theirs, to weed out inferior products. And if I come across something interesting, or if the customer offers to share a little with me, I always take the glass back to the kitchen and share it with whomever is expediting – the chef, a sous chef, or sometimes a line cook. They love it. Who doesn’t love to be included?

POSITIVE INTERACTION

How does this time and effort with the kitchen evolve into something worthwhile for me? For the restaurant? For our customers? A restaurant’s success comes down to taking care of its customers. Sometimes the people who don’t get to spend the shift with those customers forget that central mission. Rather than haranguing them, try enrolling them. Use enticement, use creativity. Open your mouth and ask for their active participation.

Here’s an example: Our chef puts together a daily tasting menu. I match wines with each course. At least once a week, I ask her if there’s a wine she’d like to see with one of her courses. I used to get no response. Now I get requests! As I wrote this, she just came to me and asked if I’d be willing to put together a wine tasting menu for Valentine’s Day.

Two years ago at a management meeting, I suggested that we put together a series of wine dinners. The kitchen responded that it was “too much work”. Having been a chef, I knew that wasn’t true; rather, the kitchen just wasn’t interested. At a management meeting a few weeks ago, our group owner asked why we hadn’t had any wine dinners. Hesitantly I turned to our chef. She asked if I’d like her to collaborate on planning menus with me and how I would like to approach them!

At lineup, I ask the floor staff to talk about their dining experiences at other restaurants. In addition to service and food, they talk about favorite wines. Sometimes one of them finds a wine that they’re excited about and wish we hadon our list. I’ll get a sample and we’ll try it. While the cooks may not come to our meetings, they now poke their heads into the office to suggest wines that they’ve tried at other restaurants too.

Let’s face it, if you spend a large amount of your time battling over territory, resources and procedures with your chef, you’re both wasting time. If you can forge a great working relationship where you can both contribute to each other’s creativity, think of what you might accomplish. And all it takes to start is to ask.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Bargain Hunting

Thursday, April 5, 20010

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
April/May 2001
Page 30

FROM THE CELLAR
Bargain Hunting

I feel a little like the restaurant reviewer starting a column with “there’s this great little hole-in-the-wall that I probably shouldn’t say anything about, because it’ll become something that isn’t a great little hole-in-the-wall.” So how do you go about telling other wine buyers about wine bargains without writing yourself out of the bargain-hunting game?

The easy answer is that there are a whole lot more bargains out there than there are great little holes-in-the-wall, and bargain hunting takes more work than hopping in a cab to a back street on the Lower East Side of Manhattan.

DO-SI-DO

From my perspective, the key to good deals lies in my connection with suppliers and their suppliers. The process of building a good relationship is a lot like dating. There are boundaries to be worked out, phone calls to make, liaisons to keep and parents to please (i.e., restaurant owners and the owners of the distribution companies).

I learned long ago that the relationship cannot be one-sided if I want the really good deals. Wine buyers who think that they hold all the cards are sadly mistaken. Refusing to make appointments (“just drop bottles off”), blowing off appointments (“my time is more important than yours”) and similar moves just don’t work. Sooner or later, your suppliers will forget to mention a bargain that they know you would want. They will sell to someone more appreciative.

By the same token, you should understand that suppliers don’t hold all the cards either. Such supplier attitudes as “you can only have this if you buy that” and “if you don’t buy this, my boss is going to remember that when you ask for…” are equally counterproductive. There is no wine or spirit out there that you really have to have. You always can buy something else from another supplier.

Sometimes we dance the dance. A sales rep calls at the last minute and asks for a quick meeting with an importer rep who suddenly showed up at his/her door. We take ten minutes out of our lives and make him/her look good. Invest a little time with that importer rep or winery owner too – don’t forget who controls the flow of wine one link back on the chain. Sometimes the importer or the winery has something in stock that just might be made available to the right person.

The supplier tango usually doesn’t pay off overnight. Just like dating, we might only make it to first base for a while, then second, then third. Then one day we show up at work and find ourselves at home plate.

SUDDENLY ALL LESS EXPENSIVE (S.A.L.E)

What are the bargains to jump on, and what are the bargains to avoid?

Post-offs and closeouts. These are usually deals to help move stock that is not moving or to clear a line that is being dropped. They might look attractive, but look carefully; these wines aren’t moving for a reason. I always like to know the exact nature of the offer: Is the wine too old? Bad? Was it far overpriced and is now being offered at what it should have been?

Direct imports and direct offers. These deals are a method that suppliers use to sell something that they do not have yet so that they can judge how much to buy. Here is a nice way to pick up something at a slight discount. Saving that ten percent is attractive, but choose carefully; remember, if customers love the wine, there will be no more of it at the same rate. Will they still love it when the price goes up?

Vintage clearances. These deals are easy to like and to execute, but they do require a sizable up-front investment. Suppliers discount to clear space in a warehouse for a new vintage. They want the wine out of there – not just two cases, all of it. Make them an offer. Yes, it is an investment in cash and storage space, but you’d be surprised how much discounting room there is in the price.

Gems. These are my favorites and are what make the whole dance and dating ritual with your supplier worthwhile. These are the deals that are handed to us because of the relationships that we have built. Sometimes these gems come from your carefully nurtured sales reps, sometimes from their boss or from the winery or importer behind the scenes.

Gems are the “we’ll reserve all of this for you, at a reduced price, if you’ll feature it” deals. An exclusive with a discount – you can’t beat that.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Beaujolais: Gamay at its Best

Monday, May 1, 20000

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
May-June 2000
Pages 80-82

Beaujolais: Gamay at its Best

Twice while I worked for Santé, I was asked to do all the tasting and write-ups of tasting notes, for articles written by other writers, in this case Rob Costantino. I remember it seemed odd both times that the author wasn’t tasting the wines they were referencing in the article, but hey, I got to taste lots of wines.

Reviewer’s Choice

Coudert / 1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes.

Domaine Manoir du Carra / 1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats.

Louis Jadot / 1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes.


BEAUJOLAIS

VALUE

Pierre et Paul Duridilly
1998 Les Grandes Coasses
Upfront tobacco and blackberry aromas; good, long finish. Delightful on its own or with a grilled T-bone steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]

Domaine Madone
1998 Le Perreon
Very forward grapy flavors but slightly green; a trifle hot on the finish. A good, basic “burger” wine. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $96/case]

Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Domaine des Sables d’Or
Raspberries, white pepper and a touch of green stemminess. A simple and basic quaffing wine. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $54/case]

BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES

VALUE

Bouchard Père & Fils
1998 Le Chamville
Sweet cherry fruit, with a touch of cinnamon oil that works well with spicy sausage dishes. [Clicquote, Inc., 212-888-7575, $85/case]

Domaine Manoir du Carra
1998 Non-Filtre
Allspice, berries, Moreno cherries and just a touch of smoke make this a great choice for grilled meats. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Flower Label
White pepper and wild raspberries with a good amount of depth. Delightful with simple veal dishes. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $42/case]

Jaffelin
1998
Smoked meats, red cherries and a touch of light spice. Perfect with a charcuterie plate. [Rémy Amerique / Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $80/case]

Jean-Claude Boisset
1998
Smooth and velvety, good Swiss milk chocolate, with bright cherry fruit. Great wiht roast chicken or sautéed veal. [Boisset U.S.A., 800-878-1123, $72/case]

Léonard de Saint-Aubin
1998
A touch of grilled meats, with dark Amarene cherries. A nice match with lighter game dishes. [Parliament Import Co., 609-348-3690, $64/case]

Louis Jadot
1998
Yellow plums, nutmeg and a touch of black pepper. Perfect with chicken or other light poultry dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $65/case]

Maison de Lamartine
1998
Simple, grapy, lightly sweet and easily quaffable wine. A nice bar pour with casual bar snack food. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $80/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998
Candied cherry fruit with a touch of cinnamon red hots. A tasty choice with a classic spinach and bacon salad. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $82/case]

MODERATE

Ch. de Lavernette
1998
Red plums, fairly hot and just a touch of bubblegum. A simple quaffing wine. Great with appetizers. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $112/case]

Ch. de Lavernette
1998 Beaujolais-Leynes
Dark, rich, chocolate and cherry fruit with incredible depth and spice. A great steak wine. [Michel-Schlumberger Wines, Ltd., 707-433-7427, $144/case]

BEAUJOLAIS CRUS

VALUE

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Chiroubles Flower Label
Slightly hot, with bright raspberry fruit. Delightfully simple. The perfect wine for a grilled chicken Caesar salad. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]

Georges Duboeuf
1998 Morgon Flower Label
Plums, fairly hot, and a bit of cherry eau-de-vie. An interesting choice with a cheese plate. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., 914-273-1221 / Winesellers, Ltd., 847-679-0120, $61/case]

Ch. de Saint-Lager
1998 Brouilly
Red plums, spicy and a touch of floral. Nicely balanced to work with duckling or goose. [David Milligan Selections, Inc., 516-537-7126, $96/case]

Olivier Ravier Signé
1998 Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la PIerre Bleue
Milk chocolate, sour cherries, lightly floral. simple wine that would match quite well with chicken dishes. [Serge Doré Selections, 914-243-7950, $85/case]

MODERATE

Bernard Broyer
1997 Chénas
Smooth, grapy, with notes of lavender and violets. Delightful with light fish and poultry dishes. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]

Bernard Broyer
1998 Juliénas Vieilles Vignes
Very floral, elements of candied cherries and licorice. For lighter dishes, such as fish and seafood. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $128/case]

Nicole Chanrion
1998 Côte de Brouilly
Dark cherry fruit and notes of slightly sweet liqueur, quite spicy. Great choice for roasted veal. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $136/case]

Coudert
1998 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette
Dark berry fruit, a touch of smoke and geraniums. A great selection with game fowl and darker poultry dishes. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Ch. de La Chaize
1998 Brouilly
Extremely ripe, raisiny fruit with characteristics of fresh mint. Light texture with strong sour cherry flavors and a hint of orange rind. Extremely pleasing from beginning to end. Spicy pasta dishes or pâté. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 707-942-3357, $108/case]

Louis-Claude Desvignes
1998 Morgon Javemière
Soft plum fruit, a bit of tannin, nicely structured to work well with a grilled steak. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]

Domaine des Grand Cras
1997 Morgon
Blackberry and plum. Hot and spicy, with really wonderful structure. Perfect with game roasts. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $104/case]

Domaine Laurent Dumas et Fils
1998 Fleurie
Blackberries, floral, light smokiness and a touch hot. Definitely a choice for lighter game meats. [Jeroboam Wines, 212-625-2505, $136/case]

Domaine Sparre
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Henri De Villamont
Bittersweet chocolate, light spices and dark cherry fruit. Grilled pork and veal would be a perfect choice. [Admiral Wine Merchants, 800-582-9463, $123/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Fleurie
Light and earthy, with floral notes and wild berry flavors. Lighter game and meats, preferably grilled. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Floral aromas, with milk chocolate and light cherry fruit flavors. A nice choice with lighter poultry. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $141/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Brouilly
Sour cherry fruit. Tannic now, needs time. I would plan on this with a duck dinner next year. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $125/case]

Joseph Drouhin
1998 Morgon
Blackberry, lightly floral and white pepper notes. Nicely balanced to go with game fowl. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $122/case]

Ch. de Fuissé
1997 Morgon Charmes
Fizzy, raspberry and blackberry fruit, somewhat hot. An off-bottle but the structure is clearly there. Recommended with lighter game meats. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., 212-355-0700, $108/case]

Jeffelin
1998 Brouilly
Milk chocolate-covered cherries, a bit high in acidity with light tannins. Needs some time, but will partner well with red meats. [Rémy Amerique/Premiere Wine Merchants, 212-399-4200, $112/case]

Louis Jadot
1998 Fleurie Château de Poncié
Geraniums and roses, fairly high acidity, raspberries. Veal and pork dishes are the way to go. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $120/case]

Louis Jadot
1998 Moulin-à-Vent Château des Jacques
Cinnamon sticks, cloves, cocoa and orange peel, with a good does of cherries underneath. Perfect with seared pork dishes. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490, 9300, $135/case]

Maison de Lamartine
1997 Côte de Brouilly
Bright cherry fruit, slightly high acidity, light spice. Chicken would be the best partner. [Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd., 540-722-9228, $120/case]

Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Saint-Amour Domaine Touton
Plums, white pepper and a touch of floral notes. Nicely balanced to pair with lamb. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]

Raymond Mathelin et Fils
1998 Fleurie Domaine des Grands Rochaux
Spicy, slightly hot, with dark berry flavors. Grilled sausage is a great match. [Bayfield Importing Co., 516-869-9170, $104/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998 Brouilly
Quite simple, grape bubblegum flavors and aromas. Basic quaffing wine. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $115/case]

Prosper Maufoux
1998 Moulin-à-Vent
Milk chocolate, cinnamon and cherry. A wine for simple poultry or pork dishes. [The House of Burgundy, Inc., 212-247-0550, $135/case]

Michel Tête
1998 Juliénas Clos du Fief
Candied violets, light cherry and spice. A nice wine to serve with fish. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $136/case]

Domaine Viornery
1998 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Lightly fizzy, spicy, Amarene cherries. Good with pork or veal chops. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]

Domaine Viornery
1998 Brouilly Cuvée Speciale
Light fizz, dark cherries and a touch of tannin. A great veal partner. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $120/case]

PREMIUM

Guy Breton
1998 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
Dark plums, spice, tannic, great concentration. A nice choice with roasted venison. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]

Jean Foillard
1998 Morgon Côte du Py
Spicy, red plums and strong floral aromatics with great structure. Perfect with grilled red meats. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $192/case]

Marcel Lapierre
1998 Morgon
Soft and plummy, toasty oak, light spices, a nice touch of tannin. Needs some time to develop. A great partner with roast pork. [Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 510-524-1524, $184/case]

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Chianti: Robust and Reborn

Monday, November 1, 19990

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November 1999
Pages 42-44, 91-97

Chianti: Robust and Reborn

I found myself more than a little put off as I read an article by a famed wine writer on the subject of Chianti. In it, he lauded the changes in denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (DOCG) laws and the winemaking in the region in general. The grist for his praise was the allowance of more Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the Chianti blend, the introduction of new barriques and the elimination of “that Italian character.” “Finally,” he concluded, “Chianti might become a good wine.”

In many ways, I think that the new DOCG regulations are a good thing. Tighter controls on viticulture and vinification practices and attention to quality are all positive steps for this Tuscan region. I’m also all for the freedom of winemakers to choose their own paths and to offer new bottlings of wine for all of us to enjoy. But, as the cliché goes, let’s not throw out the baby with the bathwater.

The adage fits, too. We all remember Chiantis from decades past that were vaguely reminiscent of bathwater. Flooding the market, they served little more purpose than to provide a vehicle for ingesting alcohol. Chianti let us pretend to join the sophisticated world of wine drinking, and it provided wicker-covered fiaschi as candleholders for our apartments. The baby, however, has been, often is and hopefully will continue to be an elegant red wine worthy of its DOCG rating. With flavors of black cherries, black raspberries, wildflowers and smoked meats, the Sangiovese base of good Chianti makes delicious wine. There is certainly a market for the “international” style of red wine, but perhaps those are best left to non-DOCG categories.

What is Chianti?

General Characteristics
 A Sangiovese-based red wine from the Tuscan hills surrounding the cities of Florence and Siena, Chianti can contain up to 25 percent of Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Mammolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, depending on the subzone. Flavors are generally those of black cherries, black raspberries, grilled or smoked meats and wildflowers.

Aging
 Most Chiantis are made for fairly youthful drinking, within a year of release; however, many are quite age worthy. Some of the best, especially riservas from the Classico and Rufina zones, can age 40+ years.

Recent Vintages
 1997 – Excellent vintage, potentially as good or better than 1990.
 1996 – A bit more acidity than 1995, but similar in style.
 1995 – Deep, well structured, made for the long haul.
 1994 – Light and elegant, perfect for current consumption.
 1993 – Bold, for-ward-fruit styles, favored for drinking now.
 1992 – Simpler, lighter wines, generally past their prime.
 1991 – Lighter, more elegant style, most are fading.
 1990 – Excellent, long-lasting, big-style wines.
 1989 – Good, very forward, many starting to fade.
 1988 – Very good, well structured, drinking beautifully.


Tuscany’s Historic Wine
Chianti is a name that practically every restaurant diner recognizes, but how many customers know something about the wine? Part of our job as beverage managers is to inform our guests about wine, without making them feel stupid and without going into deep, technical detail. So here’s the basic scoop on Chianti.

First, it is an area of Tuscany in central Italy. Second, under the appellation system, it is also the name of the wine made in that place. Chianti has enjoyed a long history before the denomination system was established.

Leonardo Frescobaldi of Marchesi de' Frescobaldi oversees a vast wine empire, including the prime Chianti Rufina property, Castello di Nipozzano.

Leonardo Frescobaldi of Marchesi de Frescobaldi oversees a vast wine empire, including the prime Chianti Rufina property, Castello di Nipozzano.

In the mid-fourteenth century, the name came to be strongly associated with a specific type of Sangiovese-based wine. In the early 1700s, a Grand Ducal decree first outlined an exacting geographic region – a demarcation that was codified into law in 1932.

Chianti was one of the first Italian wine “successes,” largely due to strict enforcement of regulations by the League of Chianti. Specific blends of grapes were promoted, certain techniques of viticulture and vinification were introduced and a massive promotional campaign was put into play. The British, too, played a strong role; during one of many wars with France, wine drinkers sought an alternative to the then unavailable Bordeaux. Chianti was the drink of choice.

Chianti Classico
While there are many wines that are specifically of the Chianti DOCG, there are just as many or more that come from its subzones. There are eight subzones, each producing somewhat distinctive styles of Chianti. The most famous and largest of them is Chianti Classico, an area with its own separate DOCG that lies between Florence and Siena. The fame is largely due to the organization most of us think of as the Black Rooster or Gallo Nero. This servicemark of the Consorzio Chianti Classico is granted to wines that the consorzio judges to be of proper quality.

Not all Chianti Classico producers submit their wines to the consorzio. The judgement granted has often been controversial, with past accusations that, while the judges may wisely enforce minimum standards, they often unwisely enforce maximums as well. Simply put, some wines have been rejected as being “too immodest” to be Chianti Classico. These nonconforming producers have fought and won changes in the regulations over the last few years.

Classico also has its own unofficial appellation system, further dividing the region into eight communes: San Casiciano Val di Pesa, Greve, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Castellina, Barberino Val d’Elsa, Poggibonsi and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, each claiming differing styles. Historically, this may be true, but the widespread changes to grape growing and winemaking practices have certainly lessened those differences. In general, the further north (toward Florence) the vineyards, the lighter the wines. Many of the most familiar and best Chianti producers come from this zone.

Not all Chianti Classico producers submit their wines to the consorzio… Simply put, some wines have been rejected as being “too immodest…”


Chianti Subzones
Less known, but not lesser in quality, are the other seven subzones. Covering the Tuscan provinces of Arezzo, Firenze, Pisa, Pistoia and Siena are the zones Rufina, Montalbano, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini and the newest, Montespertoli. Each of these makes delightful Chianti; many are as powerful and age worthy as the more well-known Classicos. Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi at Castello di Nipozzano in Rufina heads the list of the many fine producers from these zones.

These regions generally have retained the more traditional blends of grape varieties, choosing to update viticulture and vinification techniques while retaining a classic style. These zones are also less well known, because many producers from these regions have opted to label their wines as Chianti; designating the subzone o the label is not required by law.

The sienese hills lie within the Chianti Colli Senesi zone, whose Chianti production is second only to Chianti Classico.

The sienese hills lie within the Chianti Colli Senesi zone, whose Chianti production is second only to Chianti Classico.

The Formula
Classically, the Chianti blend is a majority of Saniovese, from 75-90 percent. Indigenous varietals Canaiolo Nero and Colorino make up five to ten percent, and two white grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia, comprise five to ten percent combined (two to five percent for Classico). While these standards remain the official blend throughout the Chianti DOC and seven other subzones, Chianti Classico now allows more latitude in grape choices and percentages, including Cabernet and Merlot, and even allows the wine to be up to 100 percent Sangiovese. Before release, wines must be aged 2-2½ years depending on the subzone, including three months in bottle. Oak maturation is not required. Each of the regions, including Classico and Chianti itself, allows a riserva, requiring an additional year of aging before release.

Innovator and iconoclast Sergio Manetti has dropped Chianti Classico from his label, preferring to use the Vino da Tavola designation and the Monte Vertine estate name only.

Innovator and iconoclast Sergio Manetti has dropped Chianti Classico from his label, preferring to use the Vino da Tavola designation and the Monte Vertine estate name only.

Governo, a traditional procedure in Chianti, is a proces of reserving 10-15 percent of early-harvested grapes and allowing them to air-dry before adding them into the already fermented Chianti to induce a second fermentation. A “rigoverno” also is allowed, with a further percentage of grapes used to induce a third fermentation. Most producers employ the method to make their young Chianti sweeter. Governo has become less common, as many producers believe that it lessens a wine’s ability to age. Anecdotal data suggests otherwise, and some producers maintain the practice (e.g., Ruffino’s famed Ducale Oro riserva).

As with much of the landscape of Tuscany, the base soil of Chianti is schistose clay. Depending on subzone and commune, there are various additions of flint, limestone, fossilized marine shells and sand. Sangiovese is a fairly hardy vine and is well adapted to these hard, mineral soils. In my view, the mineral elements add something to the flavor of the final products as well. Generally, the best vineyards contain a flaky marl known as galestro that is easily cracked and crumbled into fragments.

A landmark in the Chianti Classico zone, the abbey at Badia a Coltibuno (Abbey of the Good Harvest) is home to fine Chiantis made by integrating traditional with modern techniques.

A landmark in the Chianti Classico zone, the abbey at Badia a Coltibuno (Abbey of the Good Harvest) is home to fine Chiantis made by integrating traditional with modern techniques.

Back to the Future
The many changes in the Chianti vineyards and wineries and in the wine laws have raised the standard of this Tuscan classic. It’s only my opinion, but I say let’s keep Chianti traditions that make sense; Sangiovese and small amounts of local grapes; perhaps a bit of Cabernet here and there, but not in large doses; a little governo now and again; and maybe even an occasional fiasco covered in wicker. Chianti doesn’t need to taste as if it came from Napa.

Reviewer’s Choice

Cennatoio / 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva, O’Leandro
Cinnamon, black cherry, dark chocolate fudge, very intense. Possibly the best Chianti tasted. Stunning on its own or with game meats.

Lilliano / 1997 Chianti Classico
Earthy, dark fruit, smoky and spicy, well balanced; long finish. Perfect with grilled meats.

Renzo Masi / 1996 Chianti Rùfina Riserva
Blackberries, dark chocolate, light spice and oak. Perfect with roasted venison or wild boar.


Chianti

VALUE

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997 Cetamura
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Fruity style, with black raspberry and lightly smoked meat flavors. Mildly spiced Mediterranean fare. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $96/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1997
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia & Trebbiano
Black raspberries, pepper and clove and light oak aromas and tastes. A nice match with light pork dishes. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $58/case]

Cecchi / 1997
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 5-10% Trebbiano & Malvasia
Aromas and tastes of cherries, with a note of salami. Perfect as a lunch/sandwich Chianti. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $74/case]

Col d’Orcia / 1996 Gienprone
95% Sangiovese, 5% local grape varieties
Earthy, with bittersweet chocolate and light cherry fruit. A good choice with grilled dishes. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd., 212-355-0770, $66/case]

Spalletti / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Aromas and flavors of cherries and slightly smoked meat, with light floral notes. A classic “spaghetti” Chianti. [Kobrand Corporation, 212-490-9300, $80/case]

Straccali / 1997
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia and Trebbiano
Wild cherry cough drops, with light spice. A good house pour candidate. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $60/case]

MODERATE

Cantina di Montalcino / 1995 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Aromas and tastes of mortadella, cherries and spice, with a touch of oak. Very nicely made. Perfect with roasted pork. [Winewave, Inc., 516-433-1121, $102/case]

Gabbiano / 1997
87% Sangiovese, 6% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano, 2% Colorino
Black raspberries, oak, cocoa and floral overtones. Perfect with pork dishes. [Beringer Wine Estates, 707-963-7115, $110/case]

Fattoria di Piazzano / 1996 Rio Camerata
Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Cigliegiolo and Casentino
Black raspberry, milk chocolate and light spice aromas and flavors. The standout of the basic Chiantis. Great with roasted pork. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $104/case]

Fattoria di Piazzano / 1995 Riserva Rio Camerata
100% Sangiovese
Medium-bodied, with amarene cherries, dark chocolate and cinnamon. Roasted game birds. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Chianti Classico

VALUE

Ottosanti by Briante / 1997
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 2-5% Malvasia and Trebbiano
Earthy and slightly oaky, with dark fruit, spice and bittersweet chocolate. A great choice with game. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $96/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1996
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Well balanced, with black cherry, grilled sausage and light spice aromas and tastes. Perfect with grilled meats. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $79/case]

MODERATE

Banfi / 1995 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Rather tightly wrapped anda bit hot, with some black raspberry fruit showing. Needs time. This will be a superb game wine. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $128/case]

Bucciarelli / 1996
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia
Aromas and flavors of dark cherry, black tea and a touch of salami. Perfect with cured and smoked meats. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $144/case]

Villa Cafaggio / 1997
predominately Sangiovese
Dark chocolate, black cherry and slightly smoky scents and flavors. A choice for lighter red meat dishes. [F&F Fine Wines International, Inc., 201-935-5935, $128/case]

Casavecchia di Puiatti / 1995 Il Sogno
100% Sangiovese
Bright blackberry fruit, mixed spices and lightly oaked; long finish. Red meat dishes. [Vin DiVino, Ltd., 773-334-6700, $140/case]

Castelli del Grevepesa / 1997 Clemente VII
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Black cherry, milk chocolate and light spice. Works nicely with poultry dishes. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $104/case]

Castello d’Albola / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 1% Trebbiano, 1% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of black raspberry soda and fruit, with bright acidity. Spicy seafood dishes. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 707-942-3400, $120/case]

Castello di Brolio / 1996
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of dried fruit, dark cherries and black tea; long finish. Perfect with lighter game. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $144/case]

Castello di Monastero / 1997
85% Sangiovese Grosso, 15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Penetrating nose of ripe black cherry, with vanilla, cocoa and floral notes. Well balanced, good structure, with mostly soft tannins and excellent, ripe cherry-berry fruit, persistent and pleasing finish. Tomato-based pasta dishes. [Vinum International, 707-224-9601, $135/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1995 Riserva
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Black raspberries, pepper and clove, oakey and somewhat light. Venison would be a first choice. [Prestige Wine Imports Corp., 212-465-1857, $144/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1997 San Jacopo da Vicchiomaggio
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino
Still young, with bright, black raspberry fruit and spice scents and flavors. Just right for roasted pork. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $129/case]

Dievole / 1996
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Soft, with milk chocolate, pepper and moderate oak. Grilled red meats. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $120/case]

Isole e Olena / 1997
Sangiovese and Canaiolo
Dark cherry fruit and grilled meat, with earthy notes. Venison or boar. [Martin Scott Wines, Ltd. (New York only!), 516-327-0808; In other regions call Paolo de Marchi, Isole e Olena, Italy, 011-39-55-807-2763, $144/case]

Lilliano / 1997
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Earthy, dark fruit, smoky and spicy, well balanced; long finish. Perfect with grilled meats. [Premium Brands, Inc., 718-263-4094, $104/case]

Nozzole / 1994 Riserva
91% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and Colorino, 2% Trebbiano
Juicy, dark cherry fruit, earthy and nicely balanced. A nice choice with roast beef. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $118/case]

Podere Le Cinciole / 1996 Le Cinciole
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Earthy, with dark chocolate and black cherry scents and tastes. Young, but drinking well. A steak wine. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $144/case]

Querciavalle / 1994
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Black raspberry and light spice, with toasty, yeasty notes. Poultry dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $128/case]

Teuta di Riseccoli / 1995
98% Sangiovese, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon
Light cherry and spice aromas and flavors, simple. A good choice for poultry. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $128/case]

Fattoria di Rodano / 1996
100% Sangiovese
Black cherry soda and a touch of pepperoncino. Young. A great pasta wine. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $132/case]

PRESTIGE

Antinori / 1996 Peppoli
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot
Medium-bodied, with dark chocolate, gravel and clove aromas and flavors. A classic match for osso buco. [Rémy Amerique, 212-399-4200, $180/case]

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Dark raspberry and cherry fruit flavors, with light spice notes. Pasta, with cream or mushroom sauces. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $164/case]

Badia a Coltibuono / 1997 >Roberto Stucchi Signature
100% Sangiovese
Very floral nose. Smooth, dark raspberry and cherry fruit flavors. Pork roast. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $152/case]

Borgo Salcetino / 1996 Salcineto
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo
Black raspberry, spice and fairly tannic; long finish. Needs time. Perfect with game. [Angelini Wine, Ltd., 860-444-7888, $176/case]

Bucciarelli / 1994 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia
Scents and flavors of spearmint, dark cherry, white pepper and a touch of graham. Definitely a lamb choice. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $180/case]

Castellare / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Moderately floral nose. Cherry fruit and spice flavors. Roasted veal chops. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $160/case]

Castello dei Rampolla / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Spicy and very floral, with dark chocolate and a touch of dark cherry fruit. Lighter game dishes. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $288/case]

Castello della Paneretta / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Still young, with black cherry, white pepper and a touch of tannin. Excellent choice for grilled red meats. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $180/case]

Castello di Brolio / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Very ripe and fragrant bery fruit, with clove, toasty oak, leather, tar and chocolate notes. Full-bodied, with lush and round berry fruit, great acidity and black pepper notes; long and lush finish. Rich, fatty roasts of lamb or beef. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $153/case]

Castello di Fonterutoli / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Closed, with spicy, ginger and dark fruit scents and tastes. Great with game meat. [Empson USA, Inc., 703-684-0900, $359/case]

Castello di Querceto / 1994 Riserva Il Picchio
88% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 2% other
Black raspberries, salami, light spice and floral elements. Serve with grilled or smoked dishes. [Prestige Wine Imports Corporation, 212-465-1857, $265/case]

Castello di Verrazzano / 1996
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Mammolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Dark cherry, very spicy and well balanced. Will work well with sweet fruit sauces on meats. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $200/case]

Castello di Verrazzano / 1995 Riserva
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Mammolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Very spicy and slightly smoky, with intense raspberry fruit. Braised beef dishes. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $312/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1994 Riserva La Prima
92% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Chocolaty, dark cherry fruit and spicy aromas and flavors; long finish. Lamb is a prime choice. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $290/case]

Castello Vicchiomaggio / 1994 Riserva Petri
88% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet, 2% Trebbiano
Floral, with dark cherry fruit and light spice; nice finish. Perfect with game birds.. [The Hess Collection Winery, 707-255-1144, $225/case]

Cecchi / 1995 Riserva Villa Cerna
75-90% Sangiovese, 5-10% Canaiolo, 5-10% Trebbiano, 2-5% Malvasia
Smoked meat, dark chocolate and black raspberry aromas and flavors; great length. Anything off the grill works here. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $148/case]

Cecchi / 1993 Riserva Messer Pietro di Teuzzo
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Colorino
Graham and honey, with wildflowers, dark cherries and light earthy tones. Perfect with roasted veal chops. [Banfi Vintners, 800-645-6511, $108/6 bottles]

Cennatoio / 1996
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Rich and full, with black cherry, ginger and bitter chocolate. Just right with game birds. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $180/case]

Cennatoio / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Full and rich, with five spice powder, black cherry and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. An incredible choice with braised beef or game. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $300/case]

Cennatoio / 1995 Riserva O’Leandro
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
FCinnamon, black cherry, dark chocolate fudge, very intense. Possibly the best Chianti tasted. Stunning on its own or with game meats. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $348/case]

Dievole / 1995 Riserva
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Full-bodied, with dark chocolate, juicy cherry fruit and sweet oak. Beautiful with lamb. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $176/case]

Dievole / 194 Novecento
65% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino
Dark cherry and “stewed” fruit nose, with vanilla and citrus rind notes. Excellent balance, rich and full-bodied, with lush black cherry fruit and great acidity; long, pleasing finish. Elegant wine for beef tenderloin. [Terroir Brands, 727-787-0099, $232/case]

Il Vescovino / 1996 Vigna Piccola
85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, Malvaisa and Colorino
Mature, sweet aromas of black cherry, with citrus rind topnote. Well balanced, medium-bodied and silky, wiht ripe black cherry flavors, a hint of smoke and a pleasing sharpness; good finish, with fruity notes. Spicy Mediterranean fare or grilled meats. [Winebow, Inc., 201-445-0620, $148/case]

Monsanto / 1995 Riserva
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Well balanced, with aromas and flavors of smoked meat, dark cherries and spices. One of my favorites. Perfect with steak. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $168/case]

Monsanto / 1995 Riserva Il Poggio
90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Highly perfumed, wiht dark fruit and great structure. Roast shoulder of veal works here. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $345/case]

Podere Il Palazzino / 1995 Grosso Sanese
100% Sangiovese
Complex nose, with mature black cherry, clove, chocolate and cedar aromas. Outstanding balance and finesse, with rich, ripe berry flavors on a mantle of new oak; long, silky finish. A wine in harmony. Beef tenderloin or lamb. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $280/case]

Podere la Cappella / 1994 Riserva Querciolo
100% Sangiovese
Well balanced, with grilled meat and cherry aromas and tastes. Perfect with steaks. [Selected Estates of Europe, 914-698-7202, $170/case]

Podere Le Cinciole / 1995 Riserva Valle del Pozzo
90% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Aromas and flavors of black raspberries and spice; great length and finish. Roasted pork would be a first choice. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $196/case]

Poggio dei Poggi / 1995 Le Bolle
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Chocolate, cherries and a touch of mint. Quite well made. Delightful with lamb. [Fedway Imports Co., 516-74-6850, $160/case]

Poggio dei Poggi / 1994 Riserva
100% Sangiovese
Black raspberry jam, toast, yeast and bright acidity. Just right with roasted pork. [Fedway Imports Co., 516-74-6850, $168/case]

Querciavalle / 1993 Riserva
80% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo
Milk chocolate, red cherries and light spice, with moderate oak. Veal would be a great match. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $192/case]

Rocca delle Macie / 1995 Riserva Fizzano
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
Bright raspberry fruit, with lots of earthy tones, light spice and herbal touches. Perfect with game birds. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 800-872-5622, $200/case]

Rocca di Castagnoli / 1996
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo
Pleasing, ripe black cherry nose, with floral, spice and clove notes. Medium-bodied and well made, with silky black cherry flavors; long finish. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $160/case]

Rocca di Montegrossi / 1997
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Big and bold, with black cherry, dark chocolate, spice and floral scents and flavors. Game meats. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $148/case]

Fattoria di Rodano / 1995 Riserva Viacosta
100% Sangiovese
Very young, tannic and closed, with dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate and pepper aromas and flavors. An excellent choice for a roast. [Summa Vitis, 415-922-3241, $216/case]

Ruffino / 1995 Riserva Ducale
100% Sangiovese
Deep, dark cherry aroma, with clove, floral and smoky bacon notes. Medium-bodied, with lots of dark, almost sweet, fruit flavors balanced by acidity; hot finish, with a black pepper note. Grilled steaks. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $162/case]

Ruffino / 1993 Riserva Ducale, Gold Label
100% Sangiovese
Beautiful nose of pure, ripe black cherry, with some leather, citrus and floral notes. Medium-bodied, wiht black cherry/raspberry flavors and chocolate, citrus rind notes; sweet fruit and zippy acidity in the finish. A crowd pleaser. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $333/case]

Ruffino / 1996 Santedame
100% Sangiovese
Fragrant, with ripe black cherry and malted chocolate aromas. Medium-bodied, soft and round black cherry flavors and a good crispness; pleasant finish. Easy drinking. Tomato-based dishes or spicy vegetarian fare. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $126/case]

San Leonino / 1995 Monsenese
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Aromas and flavors of chocolate-covered cherries in liqueur and spice, with soft tannins. Perfect with roasted pork. [Wilson Daniels, Ltd., 707-963-9661, $180/6 bottles]

Fattoria di Vignamaggio / 1995 Riserva Monna Lisa
100% Sangiovese
Classic style, light, elegant and well balanced, with black cherries. Great with mushroom dishes. [Parliament Wine, 609-348-1100, $200/case]

Chianti Rufina

VALUE

Renzo Masi / 1997
92% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 3% Colorino
Lovely, clean and fragrant nose of black cherry fruit. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, ripe, sour cherry flavors and good balance between fruit and acid; modest and clean finish. Simple, direct and very pleasant. Tomato-based pasta dishes. [Premier Wine Merchants/Rémy Amerique, Inc., 212-399-4200, $72/case]

Renzo Masi / 1996 Riserva
93% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 2% Colorino
Blackberries, dark chocolate, light spice and oak. Perfect with roasted venison or wild boar. [Premier Wine Merchants/Rémy Amerique, Inc., 212-399-4200, $80/case]

MODERATE

Colognole / 1995
95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino
Well balanced, light and floral, wiht black cherry fruit. Excellent choice for veal. [Vin DiVino, Ltd., 774-334-6700, $114/case]

Spalletti / 1993 Riserva Poggio Reale
90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Earthy, black pepper, leather and dark fruit scents and tastes. Any roasted game. [Kobrand Corp., 212-40-9300, $106/case]

PRESTIGE

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi / 1996 Riserva Montesodi
100% Sangiovese
Elegant and spicy, with amarene cherry; long finish. Always a favorite. Venison or lamb is perfect. [Paterno Imports, 847-604-8900, $212/6 bottles]

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi / 1996 Riserva Nipozzano
90% Sangiovese, 10% minor varieties
Well balanced, with dark chocolate, black cherries and gravelly aromas and flavors. One of the “greats.” Perfect with lamb. [Paterno Imports, 847-604-8900, $180/case]

Other Chianti Zones

VALUE

Cantina dell’Aretino / 1997 Chianti Colli Aretini Vasari
75% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia, 5% Trebbiano, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
Earthy, graham, black raspberry and cocoa flavors and aromas. Poultry or pork. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4050, $88/case]

Tenuta di Capezzana / 1996 Chianti Montalbano
80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% other varieties
Bright, black raspberry fruit, light spice and yeasty, with higher acidity. Perfect with poultry and vegetable dishes. [Cliquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $93/case]

Falchini / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi Titolato Colombaia
85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and other varieties
Well balanced and lightly oaked, with salami and black raspberries. A niche choice with veal. [Bedford International, 914-833-2725, $84/case]

Geografico / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi
85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia
Nicely balanced and fruity, with fresh cherries and a touch of oak. A perfect fish Chianti. [Matt Brothers, 212-587-8147, $80/case]

Fattoria di Luicgnano / 1997 Chianti Colli Fiorentini
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Trebbiano
Nicely structured, with cherry, milk chocolate, light spice and oak aromas and flavors. Works well with veal dishes. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]

San Luigi / 1995 Chianti Colli Senesi
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
Earthy and highly perfumed, with raspberries; slightly acidic finish. Great choice with poultry. [MPM Wine Imports, 212-989-8046, $96/case]

Fattoria Sovestro / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi San Domenico
75% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia, 10% Canaiolo
Good depth and nicely balanced, with moderate to heavy oak, black cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Lighter pork dishes. [Vias Imports, Ltd., 800-936-6125, $96/case]

MODERATE

Poggio Salvi / 1997 Chianti Colli Senesi
90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, Colorino, Merlot and Malvasia
Full-bodied, with soft tannins and aromas and flavors of green olives, dark cherries and a touch of mortadella. For a Senesi, this is a great choice for roasts. [Panebianco, 212-685-7560, $114/case]

Vagnoni / 1996 Chianti Colli Senesi
80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 5% Trebbiano
Very well balanced, with juicy black cherry fruit, cocoa and spice. Excellent, a favorite. Pork dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $100/case]

Vagnoni / 1995 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva
Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Trebbiano
Young but balanced, with rich, bitter chocolate, black cherries and spice. Lamb dishes. [Tricana Imports, Inc., 516-935-4080, $112/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Magazine articles, Santé

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Putting It All Together

Thursday, April 1, 19990

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
April/May 1999
Page 59
Putting It All Together

The Veritas team, back row from left, Sommelier David Singer, Sommelier Ben Breen, Owner Gino Diaferia, front row from left, Wine Director Dan Perlman, General Mananger Ron Lybeck

The Veritas team, back row from left, Sommelier David Singer, Sommelier Ben Breen, Owner Gino Diaferia, front row from left, Wine Director Dan Perlman, General Mananger Ron Lybeck

The phone rings early. The voice on the line says, “X told us to call you. We’re opening a restaurant. We have a private collection of 70,000 bottles of wine to create a reserve list, but if you want to add to it, you can buy what you think you need. We’re going to do low markups to attract people who are into wine. The chef is really talented. Even though it’s a 65-seat restaurant, you’re going to have two assistant sommeliers. We’re opening in four weeks. Interested?”

I’ve just finished my first pot of coffee. The caffeine hasn’t quite kicked in. I’m highly susceptible to both flattery and intrigue. At least I can go talk to these guys. It’s not as if I’m committing to anything… Yeah, sure.

I go chat. Two weeks later, I’m at 20th Street in Manhattan, sitting in the basement of a construction site that will become Veritas, wondering just where I’m going to put 1,500 selections of wine. I have room for 500 – if I squeeze.

Taking Stock

Reality can bring tears to your eyes. There are personalities involved – four owners, three of whom are offering their personal wine collections for me to cull through. What complicates matters is that each of them has their own idea about what should be on the list. One partner hands over his entire collection. A second sends a list of what he is contributing to the restaurant. Partner number three knows what he has – it just isn’t written down anywhere. I make a trip to his cellar, and we comb through his collection.

I end up with over 1,200 selections of wine. They are heavily concentrated in “trophy” wines – top-growth Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône, California cult Cabs, Barolo, scattered selections from Spain (a large vertical of Unico) and Australia (ditto for Grange). There are few whites, lots of big bottles (25 percent is in magnum or larger) and virtually no half-bottles.

My two cellar rooms are both temperature controlled. I create “red” and “white” roooms, with double-depth, single-bottle racking. Initially, my reaction is one of dismay; how am I going to create bins?, there’s a lot of wasted space, etc. When I stop to think about how the wines are coming in, however, I realize that this configuration is necessary. Traditional bins would end up with five or six different wines piled on top of each other. On the other hand, because of the “selection” process, I can’t preassign bin numbers and spacing to wines. I end up creating bin number categories (e.g., 2000-2200 for red Bordeaux) and then assigning the bin numbers as the wines arrive.

Collaboration

There are two assistants to hire, one capable of creating the bar that will carry eclectic and interesting selections, not “well” brands and not even standard “call” brands. Also, I want someone who can manage a small, constantly changing, wine-by-the-glass program. We interview and hire, and we put one of the assistants, David Singer, on payroll and get him working. Between the two of us and General Manager Ron Lybeck, also a sommelier, we hammer out the concept, and Singer starts making selections. My second assistant, Ben Breen, joins us. He not only will handle floor service, but also much of the restaurant’s computerization, including the redesign of the preliminary web site where our wine list and menus are posted.

Lybeck and I come up with the concept of a “market” list. We approach it like a chef going shopping, finding ingredients and then creating a menu. I’m not going to worry about filling holes in this list. I look for wines that I like, that I can get at good values and offer at prices that beat the competition. We collect wine lists from all over the city and start comparing prices. If someone bought something years ago, we may not be able to beat the price. Instead, we go for giving the best value that we can.

There’s the menu to consider. Executive Chef/Owner Scott Bryan and I worked together years ago in another restaurant. Initially, his menu looks like typical fusion cuisine, but he has his own twists. Aiming for simplicity in a city where more is better, he pairs a minimum of ingredients to create a maximum effect. We taste through the menu with the staff – the food is amazing! From my perspective as Wine Director, however, most of what’s on the reserve list doesn’t pair with the food. A huge percentage of these are big, “chewy”wines. The food is lighter and simpler with touches of Asian spices. There are lighter, more elegant wines to add.

I’m a huge fan of half-bottles. We already have a ton of large bottles. I start collecting halves, and I ask one of the partners to do the same. He heads for the auction houses and starts bidding.

Presentation

I wish that I could remember the thought processes that went into the list design. I do remember waking up in a cold sweat at four in the morning and jotting down nightmares. Some of the presentation was dictated by prior decisions; a designer already had selected the physical book that would contain the list. It’s a half-width ring binder holding sheets of paper that are 4¼ by 11 inches. I decide to print pages on one side and fold them in half. The physical design allows me to update the list daily, a necessity given the wine-crazed clientele that we attract. Customers expect that the wine they see on the list to be there; being out of one item is guaranteed to convince them that we’re all smoke and mirrors.

veritas3I decide on a reference section for the list. Customers are always asking questions about bottle sizes, geography and wine trivia. I create a chart of bottle sizes, and I add some maps. Inspiration strikes, and I spend a couple of days researching an idea. I gather reviews of a recently released wine. As we all know, wine reviews vary considerably. I insert a blurb about the importance of trusting one’s own palate and quote from the reviews. Every flavor profile is different and the ratings vary widely. I show it to colleagues. They love it.

I want color on the list – just enough to accent the pages. I purchase an inkjet printer, which means slow printouts and regular replacement of pages when someone smears the ink with wet or greasy fingers, but we all like the look. I want to feature wines by the glass up front. A last minute call to the designer yields a pocket added to the inside cover.

We decide that we’re going to have the market and reserve lists in the same book. We want a certain level of impact in dining and wining here. We don’t want people to feel intimidated asking for the reserve list.

I gather a hundred selections or so as an opening market list. Given our “market” approach, I opt for separating them by varietal, not geography. I write a one-sentence blurb for each wine, but as time goes on, we’ll use commentary from staff tastings.

[Veritas – marketlist]
veritas2The reserve list requires a different approach. I go after it with a copy of a wine atlas in one hand. I try different formats until I find one that we all like. The page width requires certain decisions. I don’t want individual wines to take up two or three lines of text. My solution amounts to an outline of the wine world; true, customers must look at the top of the page to know where they are on the planet, but my scheme gives a simple categorization to the list.

Training

I have to deal with staff training. I decide that, over time, we will cover the equivalent of a sommelier’s course for the entire staff. Most of the wine education will be handled by me. I decide to leave the spirits education in Singer’s hands; though he’s new to managing a bar and teaching, it is a perfect opportunity for him to grow into a position.

The chef is approached. He’d love to have the kitchen staff participate. We plan classes and tastings, a demanding schedule that will tax the staff’s time and energy. The waitstaff is hired with that in mind. We look for people wo are personally into wine right from the start.

First Returns

Opening day arrives. The reserve list will open with holes intact. It will be a constantly evolving list, as any good wine list should be. Everyone says that their list is constantly evolving, but most aren’t. They become static creations because no one has the time to constantly update them. Our approach has to be different, and my assistants will free more of my time to do that.

I wish I had months to add more whites and to add wines from other parts of the world. I’d like to see more wines representing the lighter side of life. Balance will come with time. On the other hand, we know that the public, and the critics, will come looking for the holes and, finding them, will assume that we haven’t thought it through.

I add an opening statement onto the first page of the wine list, explaining our concept and evolutionary approach. It has no effect on a restaurant critic who arrives before we open, looks at a draft of the list and pronounces judgment on it. One shows up the day after we open and announces that we don’t have the wine that the reviewer wants. We have 11 other vintages of the very wine, but… yawn… well, an interesting list. A neighborhood restaurateur comes in, combs through the list and asks for an obscure wine. “You don’t have it? I thought you were going to cover everything.” He leaves, no doubt to return to his own restaurant and pass the word about Veritas’ inadequate wine list.

After a day or two, I realize that when you come into the New York City market with what we are offering, this reaction is unavoidable. Most patrons and colleagues are excited for us. There are always going to be those who feel that they have to criticize. We have over 1,300 wines on a brand new list. We’ll never cover everything. If we tried to cover everything in a list this size, we’d have one selection from each appellation, and that’s about it. Who’d be interested? Who’d be excited?

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Chile’s Hot Values

Friday, December 4, 19980

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
Winter 1998
Pages 30-31, 60-63

Chile’s Hot Values

Let’s face it. We never though that we’d be drinking Chilean Merlot. In truth, most of us never thought about Chilean wine at all. It was partially the source; except for those geography nerds who sat in the front row, who knew where Chile was anyway? We were sure, if someone had asked, that it was somewhere in South America, and it was probably a perfectly nice place to live if you were South American, but wine? I mean, even the name, Chile, comes from the Indian word Tchili, the “deepest point on earth.” Who would grow grapes there?

santechile1It was also the grape – Merlot. A few years ago, Merlot was a wine that mostly was left to people who hadn’t quite figured out if they liked red wine or not. Sure, we drank it when it was blended with Cabernet in Bordeaux. (But we didn’t think about that.) Now and then we even poured it as house wine. Then someone decided they had a lot of the stuff to sell. Amazing what a good publicist can do for a disregarded grape, no?

Now the “M” grape is everywhere. The trend of the moment is to rip up whatever grapes you have and plant it, and nowhere is this more apparent than in Chile. In the last ten years, Merlot has taken to the Andean foothills and valleys like no other grape before it. Winemakers from the world over have flocked to the South American continent to lend their expertise, stake their claim and generally just get some grapes in a bottle.

Geography and Climate

Not that I want to bring up geography again, but it will help to put Chile in perspective. For those who don’t remember from class or who haven’t run for their dusty atlas, Chile is located on the “left-hand” side of the tail of South America. It stretches an amazing 2,610 miles from north to south, while averaging only 110 miles wide from seashore to the top of the Andes, and remember, that long stretch is north to south, making for wide climate differences.

In addition, the altitude ranges from sea level on the shores of the Pacific to over 22,000 feet at hte top of the Andes. Soils vary from sea-sand to volcanic rock; as a matter of fact, two of the areas where grapes are grown, Tupungatu and Maipu, are volcanoes. With desert in the north of the country and mountains, fjords and forests in the south, the grape growing region is centered around the central and capital city, Santiago. This is where 70 percent of the population live, and it is also where the climate is most conducive to grape-growing. Here, the summer temperatures average in the low 70s, while the winters are moderate, with mid-40 mean temperatures. The rainfall is around 15 inches per year, almost entirely during their winter, from May to September. What more could a grape ask for?

What is a Chilean Merlot?

General Characteristics and Aging: While it’s hard to generalize, Chilean Merlots fall into two styles: young, fresh wines, with bright berries that are made for casual drinking upon release, and rich, plummy, almost chocolaty wines, with solid oak contact that are made for developing over three-to-five years and that go well with grilled or roasted red meats. The latter are often designated as reserva wines.

Recent Vintages: Because of the consistent climate and the reliance on technological winemaking, Vintage is an insignificant factor in Chilean wines at this time. Having tasted several vintages of some of the more popular wines, house style remains notedly consistent from year to year.

Identity Search

While Chileans have made wine for centuries, the Chilean wine industry is “born-again.” Old styles of overripe, cooked fruit and native wood barrels that produced wines that only the Chileans loved have disappeared in a wave of modern technique and technology. Stainless steel, imported oak and laboratory analysis are now de rigueur rather than the exception. Natural pluses, such as no phylloxera, just add to the temptation to grow grapes and to make wine.

It would be nice to say that there is a definitive style for the wines of the valleys of Rapel, Aconcagua, Colchagua, Lontue, Curico, Central, San Fernando, Casablanca, Peumo, Maipo and Maule, or for that matter, to say that there is a definitive style for the Merlots of Chile, but there is not. Instead, hype about the “fun and flavor,” the “Latin American personality”and the “exuberance and fruit”of these wines dominates any discussion. In some cases, one or the other of these descriptors even holds true.

In fact, the quality and style of Chilean Merlot ranges from thin and weedy to overextracted and tasting of two-by-fours, but at the same time, it can range from ripe, fresh, berry fruit quaffs to rich, full-bodied, dark fruit, age worthy entries. This isn’t all that surprising given that the price range of these wines starts around $30 a case and goes up to five times that. What is surprising, however, is that in many cases, the low-end wines outshine the high-end choices.

As the saying goes, not all that glitters is gold, and in this case, not all of it is Merlot. Research done by the Chileans and others has shown that much of what is planted in fields of Chile is actually Carmenére or Grande Vidure. Although these grape varieties constitute a large percentage of plantings, bottle labeling almost excluisvely states “Merlot.” This accounts for a good amount of the differing palate profiles.

Veramonte Vineyards, Casablanca Valley, Chile

Veramonte Vineyards, Casablanca Valley, Chile

Similar to California, there is little in Chile in the way of vintage variation. The climate is steady from year to year – heat, sunshine and long growing seasons. Fresh, well-extracted fruit with a bit of oak put these wines squarely in the international style, and for the most part, the Chilean wines are made for early consumption. On the other hand, there are those who see the potential for treating each vintage differently by making reserve wines for aging when appropriate. Unfortunately for the consumer, the reserve designation is no guarantee of this style or level of quality. Caveat emptor.

Perhaps the most definitive thing I can say about the Merlots (and perhaps all varietals) of Chile is that the winemaker is the important factor. While there are soil differences between appellations, there is no notable terroir difference in the wines. Likewise, there is little that distinguishes Chilean Merlot from that of other countries, but a distinctive, fairly consistent house style emerges within each winemaker’s products.

The Price is Right

As a value house quaff, Chilean Merlots are certainly up there near the top. It’s hard to find decent red wine at these prices. The demand for Merlot from all points has, strangely enough for the world of competition, not driven prices down, but driven them up. The value wines that I recommend here are ones that I would certainly be happy to see poured at a bar or as a house wine at a table. For the higher-priced entries, what we have now is aging potential. The future remains to be seen, but certainly for short-term aging, these wines appear to be great choices for not a lot of money.

Reviewer’s Choice

Caliterra / 1997 Valle Central
100% Merlot
An absolutely delightful entry, this wine has what I look for in a quality Merlot. Dark, ripe fruit, peppery, a touch of cedar, an overlay of bitter chocolate, good acidity and alcohol. Unbeatable for the price, and a great partner with grilled meats.

Concha y Toro / 1994 Rapel Valley / Marqués de Casa Concha
100% Merlot
This elegant entry has notes of cocoa, tobacco, pepper, ripe dark cherries and an intense, long finish. It opened up beautifully with time. Try this with a solid red meat meal. The outstanding wine of the tasting, not just in the value category.

Cousiño-Macul / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Entry has dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate, pepper and herbal qualities. A long finish, good tannins and alcohol show a definite promise for aging. This is a great choice any time you want a solid, full-bodied red with dinner.

VALUE

Alameda / 1995 Maipo Valley / Santa Maria Vineyard
100% Merlot
Light and simple, this makes a nice house pour. Bright berry fruit, with good acidity and just a touch of tannin and oak on the finish. [Alameda Wine Cellars, 518-756-7015, $52/case]

Alameda / 195 Maule Valley / Special Reserve, La Violeta Vineyard
100% Merlot
Ripe cherries and cinnamon are prominent in this nicely balanced entry. The small dose of oak and tannin on the finish round this out well. Serve with lighter meat dishes, such as veal and poultry. [Alameda Wine Cellars, 518-756-7015, $68/case]

Caliterra / 1997 Valle Central
100% Merlot
An absolutely delightful entry, this wine has what I look for in a quality Merlot. Dark, ripe fruit, peppery, a touch of cedar, an overlay of bitter chocolate, good acidity and alcohol. Unbeatable for the price, and a great partner with grilled meats. [Robert Mondavi Winery, 707-226-1395, $68/case]

Carta Vieja Merlot / 1997 Maule Valley
100% Merlot
Ripe fruit, herbs, pepper, a good touch of oak and a slightly off-dry palate make this a perfectly acceptable house quaff. Given the price, this is an outstanding value. [Frederick Wildman & Sons, 212-355-0700, $34/case]

Casa Julia / 1995 San Fernando Valley
100% Merlot
A light style with nice acidity, bright berry fruit and a touch of tannin and oak on the finish. Better than the typical house pour, this is a good choice with lighter dishes. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $72/case]

Casa Lapostolle / 1996 Rapel Valley
100% Merlot
Fresh, sweet cherry fruit, with a touch of cinnamon and a nice round finish. A bit of tannin and good acidity make this quite tasty. Try it with pasta or risotto. [Schieffelin & Somerset, 212-251-8200, $96/case]

Chateau La Joya / 1996 Colchagua Valley
100% Merlot
Vegetal and herbal, this wine seems as if it is made from underripe grapes, yet it is rather pleasant and certainly a nice choice for those who want a “non-fruity” option. [Marie Brizard Wines and Spirits, USA, 305-893-3394, $56/case]

Chateau La Joya / 1995 Colchagua Valley / Gran Reserva
100% Merlot
Somewhat herbal, though far more complex than the non-reserva, with spicy notes, a slightly bitter finish and a bit more plummy fruit. With roasted poultry, this makes a nice partner. [Marie Brizard Wines and Spirits, USA, 305-893-3394, $96/case]

Concha y Toro / 1996 Peumo Valley / Trio
100% Merlot
Ripe, bright fruit with a touch of pepperiness, a good dose of alcohol and a long finish. This wine has an unusual petrolly note that is unexpected, but not unpleasant in a Merlot. Try it with a lighter meal. [Banfi Vintners, 516-626-9200, $76/case]

Concha y Toro / 1994 Rapel Valley / Marqués de Casa Concha
100% Merlot
This elegant entry has notes of cocoa, tobacco, pepper, ripe dark cherries and an intense, long finish. It opened up beautifully with time. Try this with a solid red meat meal. The outstanding wine of the tasting, not just in the value category. [Banfi Vintners, 516-626-9200, $96/case]

De Martino / 1996 Maipo Valley
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Light berry fruit, simple and smooth, an interesting note of soap or perhaps cilantro, which also appears in this producer’s reserve wine. Nice with spicier Asian cuisines. [O.F.S. Imports, 707-526-9111, $78/case]

La Playa / 1994 Maipo Valley / Estate Reserve
100% Merlot
Chocolate and sweet, ripe plums dominate the nose and palate here. Good acidity, sweet oak and mild tannins flesh out the package and make this a delight to drink. One of my favorites in this tasting, this is perfect with lighter meals. [La Playa Vineyards, 516-868-3363, $88/case]

Montes / 1996 Curico Valley / Special Cuvée
100% Merlot
This wine is potentially age worthy, with a good concentration of ripe fruit, nice touches of oak and a good long finish. A great “casual dinner” wine. For those to whom it matters, this was my favorite packaging as well. [T.G.I.C. Importers, Inc., 818-769-1821, $80/case]

MontGras / 1996 Colchagua Valley
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
Spicy, peppery and a nice concentration of ripe, red fruit. A good dose of alcohol and tannin give it some nice backbone as well. This one might even age for a bit. A tasty accompaniment to lighter meats. [The Hess Collection, 707-255-1144, $65/case]

Saint Morillon / 1995 Lontue Valley
100% Merlot
Bright, delightful, ripe berry fruit and light in style, with just a touch of a spritz and a little shoe polish on the finish make this a tasty house pour. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $48/case]

Santa Ema / 1995 Maipo Valley / Reserve
100% Merlot
Definitely a wine for those who like oak, this wine has an intense oak, butter, vanilla and coconut nose, with ripe berry fruit underneath. A good barbecue wine. [T.G.I.C. Importers, Inc., 818-769-1821, $84/case]

Santa Rita / 1996 Lontue Valley / 120
100% Merlot
In some wines I like a “barnyard”nose but young Chilean Merlot may not be the best place for it. Still, for those who want the funk, this is the only option I found in the genre. [Vineyard Brands Inc., 205-980-8802, $65/case]

Santa Rita / 1995 Maipo Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
With just a touch of that earthy, barnyard funk, this wine is far more interesting than its non-reserva counterpart. Great spicy finish, lots of ripe cherry fruit and a structure that says it will age well. [Vineyard Brands Inc., 205-980-8802, $90/case]

Stony Hollow / 1996 Aconcagua Valley
100% Merlot
Dried cherries, light spice and a touch of minerals. A nice, rounded package that works well with lighter meals and a good choice for a bar pour. [Joseph Victori Wines, Inc., 914-637-0100, $59/case]

Terra Nova / 1994 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Ripe plums and apricots, with a touch of cocoa and cedar. Good acidity and tannins show promise for some development with time. This one works well with lighter meals, such as poultry and pasta. [Freixenet, USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $96/case]

Sergio Traverso / 1995 Rapel Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
Ripe, plummy fruit, with a touch of pepper and spice. The sweet oak carries through and onto the finish making this a great choice with spicy foods. [Parrott & Co., 212-734-2782, $64/case]

Undurraga / 1996 Cochagua Valley
100% Merlot
Bright red fruit that could only be described as “juicy,” a nice touch of oak and earthiness make this one of the best choices in the low-end bunch. A nice complement to lighter meals. [Kobrand Corporation, 212-490-9300, $56/case]

Veramonte / 1996 Valle Central
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe cherry fruit, with well-balanced tannins and acidity. Just a touch of spice and oak add to the package. This tasty wine is a delightful drink with fish, poultry and veal. [Franciscan Estates, 707-963-7111, $80/case]

Viña Santa Carolina / 1995 Maule Valley / Reserva
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
An oddity for Merlot, this wine has strong tropical fruit flavors of banana and pineapple, with light spice and an intriguing softness. The off-dry finish works well with the flavor profile and pairs nicely with spicier cuisines. [Canandaigua Wine Co., 716-394-7900, $84/case]

Viña Tarapacá / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Black pepper and dried herbs dominate the light-styled fruit here. A touch of bitterness on the finish is a nice touch, if not typical. This would work well with pasta dishes. [Beringer Wine World Estates, 707-963-7115, $64/case]

Viña Tarapacá / 1005 Maipo Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
Riper, richer fruit and definitely more oak than its non-reserva counterpart. Still a strong dose of black pepper and dried herbs that works well with Mediterranean cuisines. [Beringer Wine World Estates, 707-963-7115, $76/case]

MODERATE

Carmen / 1996 Rapel Valley / Reserva
100% Merlot
A soft, delicious dark fruit character, with notes of chocolate and a delightful bittersweet oak finish put this in the top lineup. A tasty choice with roast poultry or veal. [Brown-Forman Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $99/case]

Casa Lapostolle / 1995 Rapel Valley / Cuvée Alexandre
100% Merlot
Amazingly juicy, cherry fruit, loads of spice and plety of tannin and acidity make this a delicious quaff now and a contender for one of the most age worthy entries. Pair with your veal entrée. [Schieffelin & Somerset Co., 212-251-8200, $138/case]

Cousiño-Macul / 1995 Maipo Valley
100% Merlot
Entry has dark cherry fruit, bitter chocolate, pepper and herbal qualities. A long finish, good tannins and alcohol show a definite promise for aging. This is a great choice any time you want a solid, full-bodied red with dinner. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $124/case]

De Martino / 1996 Maipo Valley / Prima Reserve
85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe, dark fruit, lots of juicy acidity and a healthy dose of tannins. Similar to the non-reserve entry, there is a hint of soap or cilantro on the nose. Cellar it a bit and then serve it with an Asian-style meal. [O.F.S. Imports, 707-526-9111, $104/case]

Stonelake / 1996 Lontue Valley
100% Merlot
Earthy, dark fruit, with a pepperiness and an off-dry finish. There is a nice dose of alcohol and tannin that will give this wine some life over the next few years. Serve with red meat. [Billington Distributors, 703-541-0115, $112/case]

Veramonte / 1996 Casablanca Valley / Primus
100% Merlot (Carmenère)
Black cherries, cedar and a bit of tobacco in a well-rounded wine. For the price, this is a great value that will please any customer looking for a good, solid Merlot. [Franciscan Estates, 707-963-7111, $108/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Veneto: Outstanding Originals

Thursday, November 5, 19980

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
November 1998
Page 42-43, 75-76

Veneto: Outstanding Original

In April, I find myself jetting across the Atlantic to hang for a week in the Veneto – specifically, Verona. Home of Romeo, Juliet, and a couple of gentleman, Verona is also host to the annual VinItaly wine exhibition. From every corner of Italy and many parts of the rest of the world, thousands of producers flock to the fairgrounds in this ancient town to show their wares.

The Santi vineyards outside Verona

The Santi vineyards outside Verona

Local merchants and restaurateurs gear up for one of their busiest food and wine weeks of the year. Baccala, polenta, radicchio, and the occasional dish of horsemeat are served up left and right. Risotti made with local herbs or local wines fly out of kitchens to land on tables that are packed from the opening moment till the wee hours. The usual response to a request for a table is “Try next Monday” – after the fair is over, of course. Luckily for those of us who manage to find tables, the local wines are delicious, the perfect accompaniment to the irresistible local cuisine.

The Whites
Winemakers in the Veneto produce a wide array of wines, from sparkling to white to pink to red to sweet. In recent years, the market for “international varietals” has sparked the industry for cheap and cheerful Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet. While often attractive, these are not the wines that the Veneto is justly famous for, nor are they the wines that are consumed locally. Pinot Grigio has also become a bit more visible, but most wine drinkers seem to prefer the crisper styles that come from neighboring Friuli.

There is nothing quite so refreshing as to start a meal with a glass of Prosecco. By regulation known under one of two names – Prosecco di Conegliano or Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Prosecco is one of the most ancient white wine grapes in Italy. Produced like Champagne by the mètodo clàssico, this crisp, high-acidity grape is the perfect apertif when made in a brut or extra dry style and is a delight at the end of the meal in a demi-sec style.

The leading white wines of the Veneto are Soave, Lugana, and Bianco di Custoza. Thanks primarily to the efforts of the Bolla winery, Soave is probably Italy’s most well-known white in the United States, a staple of Italian restaurant wine lists. Based on the Garganega grape, Soave can be dry, sweet, or anywhere in between and can range from quaffable bar wine to an impressive, rich, meal accompaniment. Some top producers, such as Anselmi and PrB, are even producing superb, single vineyard “reserve” styles.

Lugana is the local Venetian dialect name for Trebbiano, a grape ubiquitous throughout Italy. Like Soave, it can be light and nondescript; in the hands of a good producer, however, Lugana can be an amazing experience. Sergio Zenato, one of the Veneto’s stars, also produces a signature, reserve Lugana that is age-worthy.

Bianco di Custoza, a wine made from a field blend of local grapes that includes both Trebbiano and Garganega as well as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and others, is most often the local bar wine. While it is unlikely that Bianco di Custoza will ever be a world-class wine, it is virtually always refreshing and satisfying as either an apertif or first-course libation.

What is a Veneto Wine?

General Characteristics
Whites run the gamut from the dry, light, everyday aperitifs of Bianco di Custoza and sparkling Prosecco to the Trebbiano-based, peachy Lugana to medium-bodied, sometimes off-dry, apricot and herb Soave.

Reds range from the light-bodied Bardolinos with simple red fruit to age-worthy, full-bodied, high-alcohol, dried fruit-flavored Amarones that pair with game or with cheese. The versatile, food-friendly Valpolicellas cover a broad middle range.

Aging
Proseccos, most whites, Bardolinos and some light Valpolicellas are ready to drink upon release. Lugana and Soave “riserva” and richer-styled Valpolicella and Ripasso can age. The best Amarones from great vintages can age for decades; 1988-1991 vintages are drinking perfectly now. Veneto dessert wines are generally age-worthy.

Recent Vintages
1995, 1996 – Good for Bardolino and Valpolicella.
1988, 1990 and 1995 – Excellent for Amarone.

santeveneto2The Reds
On the red front, Veneto boasts two major appellations – Bardolino and Valpolicella. These neighboring communities produce wines based on three grapes; Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella. Similar to Custoza, Bardolino is the local quaffing wine, but some fairly decent bottles reach our shores that make for a nice, slightly rustic match with the more “peasant” aspects of Northern Italian cuisine.

Bardolino is usually composed of less Corvina, the grape that gives color and body, and more Rondinella, a less expensive, easier to produce and more neutral tasting grape. There is a “classico” or heartland sub-appellation to Bardolino centered on one side of Lago di Garda, one of the prettiest lakes in Italy. The quality here is often better than the surrounding Bardolino area.

Valpolicella, whose production comprises a fairly large portion of the Veneto, comes in several guises. The base appellation is a dry, generally light, red table wine that can be simple or complex and goes with a wide variety of foods. It is, unfortunately, a difficult wine to define. I have had examples that were very light and simple with rather high acidity that complemented lighter fish dishes, and I have had wines from producers like Dal Forno Romano or Quintarelli that were so concentrated and rich that they easily stood up to local game dishes. Some local producers, notably Allegrini and Quintarelli, also produce single varietal wines from one or another of the local trio, most often either a richer Corvina or a lighter-style Molinara.

Within the Valpolicella region, there are three additional sub-appellations. The most well-known is Amarone Recioto della Valpolicella – more commonly known as Amarone. A distinctive style of wine, the grapes are left to air-dry for months, often until late February or early March. In addition, many producers leave the grapes on the vine to develop botrytis. The resulting raisinated grapes are then crushed and fermented dry to result in a concentrated, high-alcohol wine that, because of limited tannins in the particular varietals, can be drunk young or left to age.

Amarone is now made by a large percentage of Valpolicella producers, and experiments with various vinification techniques, barrel fermenting and barrique aging are adding to the range of styles and quality of this wine. Top producers include Quintarelli, Dal Forno Romano and Allegrini. Some of their wines need at least a decade to mature.

One of the interesting by-products of experimentation is the Valpolicella Ripasso. Not an official appellation, it is the result of producers who wanted to add body to their basic Valpolicellas. A small portion of either dried grapes or the remaining pomace from Amarone production is added to the Valpolicella fermentation tanks to boost concentration, flavor and alcohol levels. Most are marketed under the Valpolicella Superiore appellation, which requires an additional degree of alcohol, but many are now being called Ripasso, resulting in a new category for wine drinkers to explore. Boscaini and Allegrini produce delicious examples.

Sweet Wines
Veneto’s sweet wines include Recioto della Valpolicella. Generally made from botrytized grapes, the “recioto” refers to picking the grapes from the “ears” of the grape bunch, the ones that have the most sun exposure and are richest in sugars and flavors. Produced much like Amarone, the fermentation is stopped, either naturally or artificially, to produce a rich, concentrated dessert wine that is Italy’s answer to port.

There are also some delicious Recioto di Soave wines produced in the Soave region; all late harvested, and some botrytized. With honeyed, ripe, stone fruit character, these make wonderful accompaniments to fruit- and cheese-based desserts. Other white dessert wines are produced from a variety of grapes, including the interesting, Vespaiolo-based wines from Fausto Maculan.

As anywhere, there are good and bad wines that come from the Veneto. More and more, however, the wines are consistently good, and top-quality producers are making wines that rival the best from other regions of the world. Take some time and taste through what’s available to you locally, and next year, let’s hook up for a bottle in downtown Verona.

Reviewer’s Choice

Nino Franco / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico
100% Prosecco
Dry, notes of cooked pears and cardamom. With sushi, it was the hit of the pack.

Cavlchina / 1996 Bianco di Custoza Amedeo
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Rich, ripe pears, light yeastiness. Impressive for the gnre and an incredible choice with veal and pork.

Brigaldara / 1991 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice, chocolate. Still a little young and tannic.

Maculan / 1994 Acininobili
85% Vespaiola, 10% Tocai, 5% Garganega
Honey, spice, dried pears and apricots. Cries out for blue cheese, or just sip it on its own.

VALUE

Brigaldara / 1996 Valpolicella Classico
Corvina, Corvinone, Sangiovese
Blackberries and spice, great structure. Perfect with lighter meats and lightly spicy dishes.

Boscaini / 1995 Bardolino Classico Superiore Le Canne
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Red currants and spice. An interesting wine, good with lighter fried foods.

Cavalchina / 1997 Bianco di Custoza
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Pears, a touch of honeydew melon and light spice. Wonderful with poultry and veal.

Cavalchina / 1996 Bardolino Superiore Santa Lucia
Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella
Plums, cherries and spice. Delicious on its own or with lighter meals.

Nino Franco / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico
100% Prosecco
Dry, notes of cooked pears and cardamom. With sushi, it was the hit of the pack.

Montresor / 1997 Bianco di Custoza
(mostly from Garganega, with Tocai, Chardonnay, Bianco Fernanda and Trebbianello)
Cream, spice and fresh peaches. Delicious as an aperitif or with poultry and light pasta dishes.

Villa Rizzardi / 1995 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Poiega
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Sweet cherries, spice and a touch of chocolate. Delicious on its own and a great match with lamb.

Zenato / 1997 Lugana San Benedetto
100% Trebbiano
White peaches, minerals and a touch of yeast. Delicious with lighter pastas and fish dishes.

Zonin / 1996 Soave Classico
95% Garganega, 5% Trebbiano
Light earth, yeasty, peaches and apricots. An excellent aperitif wine, especially for the price.

MODERATE

Allegrini / 1995 Valpolicella Classico Superiore La Grola
70% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, 5% Sangiovese
Smooth, creamy, spice and dark fruits. A Valpolicella fit for red meat.

Anselmi / 1996 Soave Classico Superiore Capitel Croce
100% Garganega
Tropical fruit, coconut, vanilla and light spice notes. Delicious by itself or with lighter meats.

Bisol / N.V. Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Crede
100% Prosecco
Bone-dry, minerally, grapefruit pith. Definitely an aperitif-style sparkler and great with a plate of oysters on the half-shell.

Boscaini / 1993 Valpolicella (Ripasso) Santo Stefano de le Cane
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Rich, full-bodied, dark fruits, chocolate and spice. Delicious with lamb and game.

Cavalchina / 1996 Bianco di Custoza Amedeo
Cortese, Garganega, Trebbiano
Rich, ripe pears, light yeastiness. Impressive for the genre and an incredible choice with veal and pork.

Prà / 1996 Soave Classico Superiore Monte Grande
90% Garganega, 10% Pinot Chardonnay
Apricots and cream, minerally, very elegant. A perfect partner with poultry and fish.

Vincenzo Toffoli / N.V. Prosecco di Conegliano Extra Dry
100% Prosecco
Dry, white peaches, with notes of yeast and toast. Delicious with fish and lighter poultry dishes.

PRESTIGE

Allegrini / 1994 Recioto Classico della Valpolicella
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Prunes and dried cherries, with spice and a touch of chocolate. Drink on its own or with a dessert, such as a spice cake.

Bertani / 1998 Amarone Classico Superiore
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice and earth. Always a class act. Delicious with game.

Bertani / 1985 Recioto Valpolicella Valpantena
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Cherry liqueur filled dark chocolate candies, with a spritz, in a bottle. The perfect wine with a chocolate dessert.

Brigaldara / 1991 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Dried plums and cherries, spice, chocolate. Still a little young and tannic.

Dal Forno Romano / 1988 Recioto della Valpolicella
Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara
Peppery, smooth, with dark fruit flavors of prunes and cherries. Drink instead of Port for a great finish to a meal.

Maculan / 1994 Acininobili
85% Vespaiolo, 10% Tocai, 5% Garganega
Honey, spice, dried pears and apricots. Cries out for blue cheese or just sip it on its own.

Masi / 1994 Ripasso Campofiorin
60% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 10% Molinara
Tobacco, plums and a touch of toffee. Perfect with lamb or game.

G. Rizzardi / 1993 Amarone Classico
Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara
Dried cherries and strawberries, spice and alcohol. A perfect partner with lamb.

Villalta / 1993 Amarone I Communali
60% Corvina, 30% Rondineall, 5% Molinara, 5% Rossignola and other
Black cherry, blueberry and raisins, with an earthy element. Very luscious and soft black cherry flavors; long finish that is jammy, but clean. After dinner with veined cheeses.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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