Santé

Up until a dozen years ago, there was little to talk about besides Port and Madeira. Portuguese winemakers stubbornly held on to “traditional values,” a poor defense for wines that were generally harshly tannic and oxidized. Also, the popular appeal of Portuguese rosé that once accounted for 25 to 50 percent of the country’s wine exports to our shores faded as our homegrown White Zinfandel captured an ever-increasing share of the domestic rosé market.

In 1986, with Portugal’s entry into the European Common Market, the new guard of the country’s winemaking industry has actively sought worldwide market acceptance. Portugal, in fact, ranks around sixth in overall production volume of wine, which is not bad for a country that could fit comfortably inside the state of Indiana. This is even more impressive when you consider that less than five percent of the country is under vine.

Finding Quality
It is now possible to see, in virtually any retail wineshop around the country, wines labelled “Vinho Verde,” “Dão” and “Bairrada.” The grapes of Port are repackaged in dry table wine form and marketed under the Douro appellation. Portuguese restaurants are no longer limited to half a dozen selections from their homeland as the variety of wines suddenly available is staggering.

Admittedly, there is still a preponderance of inexpensive Portuguese table wine on the market. Looking through lists of available wines, the vast majority came in under $70 a case, many under $50. Having tasted quite a few of them, I believe that many make pleasant house pours and easy-drinking quaffs for casual dining. Still, customer unfamiliarity with names and places makes them a tough sell on a winelist.

My focus here is on red wines of higher quality. I began by selecting only those wines that came in at $72 or more a case. Depending on pricing schemes, this probably means wines that will sell on your list for a low in the $15-20 range. The top-end wines wholesale for more than $300.

The Best Red Wine Regions
The Portuguese appellation system, one of the earliest of its kind in establishing formal guidelines to ensure excellence, was first formed in 1756, specifically for the Douro as the home of Port wines. The current modern system focuses on two quality levels: the top DOC, or Denominacão de Origem Controlada, and a second tier, VR, or Vinho Regional. While there are now 19 classified DOC regions, most of the quality red and white wines come from the cneter to north of the country, roughly bordered by the rivers Douro and Tagus.

Carlos Agrellos, Quinta do Côtto, Cidadelhe, Douro Valley

A bit further south in the Dão Valley, variety is the watchword. While Touriga Nacional still abounds and is required to comprise 20 percent of the blend, grapes such as Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, and Jaen pop up with abandon and add their own characteristic flavors to the mix. Here, the wines are often tannic when young, but have good fruit and backbone that will balance the tannins with age. These wines often peak at 12-15 years of age.

Neighboring Bairrada bases its wines on the Baga grape with other local varieties blended in for complexity. Rich, perfumed wines that ripen and soften with age make this area one of the shining stars in Portugal’s portfolio. Top-end gems from producers such as Luis Pato are world-class, but Bairrada is not a guarantee of quality; I found that some producers are still making tannic, oxidized-style wines that they exhibit with great enthusiasm as traditional bottlings.

There is great potential in many of the wines of central and south Portugal. José Maria de Fonseca is the leading producer of quality wine throughout the area; but as with Portugal in general, many producers in the south still employ outdated techniques in the vineyards and wineries that result in wines that are out of fashion in the U.S.

In truth, this last statement sums up the Portuguese wine industry. While much of Portugal’s vast wine industry is still dedicated to the cheap and cheerful market, quite a few good and even great wines are made. Paired with the right cuisine and promoted with enthusiasm, these exciting wines will reward your adventurous guests with an exceptional wine experience.

The vineyards of Quinta do Aveleda, Penafiel, Vinho Verde

NAME THAT GRAPE
Grape varieties from Portugal seem unfamiliar, not only to the average restaurant patron, but also to those of us in the trade. The Bastardo, commonly used in Dão reds and in Port, is the Trousseau of France’s Jura reds. Aragonez from the Alentejo, alias Tinta Roriz in the Douro and Tinto de Santiago in Setúbal, is known to most of us as Tempranillo, Spain’s most popular red. Mençia, from Vinho Verde in the north, is generally believed to be Cabernet Franc.

Within Portugal itself, much as they do in many other countries, grape names change from place to place. The highly regarded Periquita is alson known as Castelão Francês, João de Santarém, Mortágua and Trincadeira. Even more confusing, in some parts of Portugal, Trincaderia refers to an entirely different grape, the Tinta Amarela, resulting in wines that claim to be blends of Periquita and Trincadeira!

Caves Dom Teodósio “Cardeal Reserva” / 1990 / Dão
35% Touriga, 35% Tinta Pinheira, 30% Bastardo
Blackberry, spice and lots of structure. Tasty with meat dishes, especially game.

J.P. Vinhos “Herdade de Santa Marta” / 1993 / Alentejo
40% Periquita, 15% Alfrocheiro, 15% Tinta Carvalha, 15% Trincadeira, 15% Moreto
Cassis, raspberries and cream – medium bodied. A nice spicy choice with spicier foods.

Luis Pato “Quinta do Ribeirinho” / 1995 / Bairrada
Baga, Touriga Nacional
Pleasant, fresh raspberry and cherry fruit, smooth and well-balanced. With lighter meals, a real winner.

Quinta da Lagoalva / 1994 / Ribatejo
Periquita, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon
Leathery, gamey notes with dark fruit to back it up. For the price, a great glass of wine with red meats.

Quinta das Setencostas / 1996 / Alenquer
Periquita, Tinta Miuda
Raspberry liqueur coated with milk chocolate. A tasty pre-dinner quaff with lots of fruit.

Quinta do Casal Branco “Falcoaria” / 1995 / Almeirim
Trincadeira Preta & Castelão Francês
Rich, ripe blackcurrant fruit and spice. Absolutely delicious anytime. For the price, wow!

Sogrape “Reserva” / 1995 / Douro
Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Mourisco & Bastardo
Raspberry, spice and good structure. A nice choice with all sorts of dishes.

Caves Velhas Romeira “Garrafeira” / 1991 / Palmela
Periquita & Trincadeira Preta
Earthy, dark fruit, some oak and spice. Slightly hot, but a good choice with spicier foods.

José Maria da Fonseca “Quinta de Camarate” / 1991 / Terras do Sado
75% Castelão Francês, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon
Dusty, bright berry fruit and a touch of tannins. A tasty choice with deep sea fish, pasta and rice dishes.

J.P. Vinhos “Quinta da Bacalhôa” / 1995 / Terras do Sado
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot
Ripe plums, vanilla and cocoa, very smooth. Delicious by itself or with a wide variety of meals.

Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima “Special Reserva” / 1992 / Ribatejo
85% Periquita, 15% Syrah
Ripe blackberries, pepper, slightly tannic and fairly alcoholic. Needs some time.

Quinta da Pellada Touriga Nacional / 1996 / Dão
40% Alfocheiro, 60% Touriga Nacional
Smooth, ripe cherry fruit, spicy. Delicious with fish and fowl.

Quinta do Carvalhinho Cabernet Sauvignon / 1995 / Beiras
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Ripe plums, cedar, chocolate. Delicious on its own or with meats.

Quinta do Carvalhinho Garrafeira “Casta Baga” / 1990 / Bairrada
100% Baga
Ripe plums and peaches, good spice and well balanced. A really good choice with lighter meats.

Quinta do Crasto / 1995 / Douro
50% Tinta Roriz, 30% Tinta Barroca & 20% Touriga Francesca
Cherries, spice and vanilla. A good choice with lighter meats.

Quinta do Crasto Reserva / 1995 / Douro
Old vine blend
Cherries, earthiness, spice and a nice touch of oak. The concentration makes it a great choice with pastas, mushrooms and meat.

José Maria da Fonseca “Garrafeira CO” / 1990 / Arrábida
mostly Castelão Francês
Rich, spicy, blackberry fruit. Perfect with small game and game birds, or lamb dishes.

José Maria da Fonseca “Garrafeira TE” / 1990 / Arrábida
65% Camarate, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon
Milk chocolate covered cherries. Delicious on its own or with a heavier dinner.

José Maria da Fonseca “Periquita Clássico” / 1992 / Terras do Sado
70% Castelão Francês, 25% Espadeiro & Monvedro, 5% Bastardo
Rich, ripe fruit, cedar and tobacco. One of the more complex selections and needs some time.

Luis Pato “Vinha Pan” / 1995 / Bairrada
100% Baga
Ripe black cherries, licorice, and spice. Very young and fairly tannic.

Luis Pato “Vinha Barrossa” / 1995 / Bairrada
100% Baga
Even more concentration than the Vinha Pan, but similar profile. Black cherries, licorice, and spice. Needs time.

Quinta do Côtto “Grande Escolha” / 1995 / Douro
85% old vine Tinta Roriz, 15% Touriga Nacional & Touriga Francesa
Ripe blackberries, bittersweet chocolate, spice and lots of depth. A stunning wine.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

Overheard at a recent party: “I always go for the rosé. Nobody ever drinks it, so I figure it’s got to be good.”

Overheard at a recent sommeliers’ wine tasting: “Yeah, but why would anyone want to drink rosé? It’s all sweet and uninteresting.”

Overheard at a recent wine dinner: “You like rosés? It shows you have a good palate.”

Pink wine has such disparate images that it’s just plain hard to figure. Any American from my generation, falling midway between baby boomer and genxer, grew up with the first White Zinfandels, the cool-shaped bottles of Lancers and Mateus and the occasional “other” fruit-based rosé with down-home labels, such as Boone’s Farm or Annie Greensprings. In other countries, pink wine is much more of a tradition: the French have had Tavel for years, the Italians, Cerasuolo, the Spanish, Navarra.

Producing Pink
There are three main methods of making rosé. The most obvious one is to blend red and white wine together to make pink. This is the method of most sparkling wine producers. In fact, in the European Union, the only place I know of where it is legal to produce rosé wine by this method is Champagne.

The other two methods basically differ in the same way that making white and red wines contrast. The vin gris (grey wine) method is to take red grapes and treat them as you would white wine – crushing and pressing the grapes and then fermenting the juice without skins, stems or seeds. The premise here is that with sufficient pressure, just enough color and extra skin tannin and flavor will show up in the finished product.

The saignée or short-term maceration method treats red grapes as red grapes. They are crushed and then fermented. The wine is racked off the lees after the winemaker decides that just the right color of pink and depth of flavor has been acheived. Fermentation is then continued with just the juice.

There are other types of rosé making. As many of you know, red grapes have white juice on the inside. The color component is all in the skins. There are, however, grapes that have some of their color within the juice itself, such as Italy’s Grignolino and France’s Poulsard, and in some less developed winemaking areas, red wines are literally bleached of their color by passing them through activated charcoal filters.

What do these rosé types mean to you, the wine buyer? Vin gris wines, having been fermented like white wine, tend to age quicker, and are best consumed as young as possible. On the other hand, the short-term maceration wines, having at least a touch of tannin for structure, seem to last slightly longer and have more intense fruit flavors. While few wines are labelled as to which method was used, color is a good indicator.

European Classics
The truly classic areas of rosé production number three. Tavel, Provençe and Navarra. Tavel is a rosé-only appellation on the right bank of the southern Rhône and is also the name of the bone-dry, Grenache-based wine with small doses of other typical local varieties, such as Cinsault, Clairette, Mourvèdre and Carignan. Often more expensive than other rosés, classic Tavel shows more quality and depth than other French rosés. Pricing ranges from $80 to $124 a case. At the higher end, Vidal-Fleury and neighboring Château d’Acqueria are can’t miss bets.

Provençe and neighboring Languedoc are well-known for Cinsault and Grenache-based rosés. Typically pale, dry and vin gris-styled, these are wines that are often best drunk “over there.” For the most part, they seem not to travel well; even high-end wines like the well-known and rather pricey Domaines Ott rosés, show signs of early oxidation.

Navarra, located in northeast Spain, is a moderately sized production area with a reputation for producing light, fruity reds and rosés from Garnacha, the Spanish name for Grenache. The wines are fruitier than similarly produced Tavels; they seem to travel better, and they cost less. On the other hand, Navarra rosés are generally produced for easy, simple drinking and have less depth and complexity. The few available here from good producers sell out quickly.

The vineyards at Mas de la Dame in Les Baux de Provence

Pink wine is made for young drinking, and the majority of 59 samples reviewed were either 1996 or 1997 vintage. A surprising 14 wines from 1993 through 1995 vintages are still in the market; unfortunately, as my tastings showed, all the 1993s and 1994s and most of the 1995s were oxidized. Quite a few were corked as well, leading me to believe that not as much care is emphasized in the production and bottling of these wines. Given that these mature rosés often linger on restaurant winelists, it’s no wonder that a large portion of the public thinks rosés aren’t all that pleasant to drink.

Grape variety also played a big part in the quality and shelflife of rosés. Grenache, or Garnacha, tends to oxidize quickly. Other grapes, such as Syrah, seem to keep their fruit longer, but, for whatever reason, are made in a style that produces sweet watermelon and bubblegum flavors, and they’re not my favorites for restaurant drinking.

The most important conclusion I can draw from my reviews is that age is the number one purchasing factor. Bluntly, if you are offered pink wine that is more than one vintage “out-of-date,” you’re running a high probability of doing yourself and your customers a disservice. That means that as of the time of this article, anything but a 1996 or 1997 is probably a mistake. If you still have 1995s on your list, it’s time to pour them off by the glass, checking bottle by bottle for oxidation.

The number two factor, though, in truth, it should always be your number one, is to taste the wines before buying. Make sure the style is something that fits with your cuisine. With wines ranging from light, crisp, delicate and bone-dry, to fruity, off-dry and sometimes even a touch fizzy, there’s a lot of ground to cover.

In the end, the rewards are worth the research. I have to admit, that when I see a good selection of quality, youthful rosés on a wine list, I know that someone has done their homework. It perks my interest up in their list immediately, and I’ll probably order one. Maybe you will too.

Value:

Castello di Ama Rosato / 1996 / Toscana
100% Sangiovese
Dark cherries and a touch of spice. Always a favorite and makes a great bar pour and/or apertif.

Bonny Doon Vineyard “Vin Gris de Cigare / 1997 / California
36% Syrah, 28% Grenache, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, 6% Sangiovese, 6% Other
A juicy blend of orchard fruits and berries. One of the most complex in the tasting and quite able to stand up to most meals.

Laurent Charles Brotte Syrah Dry Rosé / 1996 / Côtes-du-Rhône
100% Syrah
Fresh berries and a touch of lime juice. Bright, vibrant flavors, the way a good rosé should be. I’d be happy with this on any list.

Jean-Paul Brun “Domaine des Terres Dorées” Rosé de Saignée / 1996 / Beaujolais
100% Gamay
Red currants and spice. A tasty quaff with some seafood to balance the acidity.

Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Rosé / 1997 / Navarra
100% Garnacha
Cherries, strawberries and cream. A delicious, fruity package.

Georges Dubœuf Syrah Rosé / 1996 / Vin de Pays d’Oc
100% Syrah
A beautiful rare salmon color. Imagine watermelon squirted with a touch of lemon juice and just a faint hint of rose petals. For the genre, this one is tough to beat.

Eberle Counoise Rose / 1996 / Paso Robles
100% Counoise
Fresh cream, a touch of cherries. Try it with a grilled chicken breast.

Illuminati “Campirosá” / 1996 / Cerasuolo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
100% Montepulciano
Black cherries, light spice and good complexity. Definitely a winner on its own or with poultry or veal.

Domaine Lafond Tavel / 1996
60% Grenache, Cinsault 10%, Clairette, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, Mourvedre, Carignan
Creamy smooth with flavors of cherry and blueberry and just a touch of a spritz. Quite a pleasant quaff before or with dinner.

Domaine de Longval Tavel / 1996
Watermelon, strawberries and a touch of creaminess. For the price, as an apertif, this would delight anyone.

McDowell Grenache Rosé / 1996 / Mendocino
100% Grenache
Vanilla, cherries and a touch of spice. A great choice for a bar pour or with lighter fish dishes.

Castillo Perelada Rosado / 1996 / Empordà – Costa Brava
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Plums, light earth and a touch of spice. Delicious throughout the meal.

Real Companhia Vinicola “Lagosta” Rosé / N.V. / Portugal
Tinta Roriz, Tinta Francisca, Tinto Cão, Touriga Nacional
A whole cocktail of fruit flavors, dry, well balanced, and for the price, an outstanding value for bar pours. The packaging is too cool for words.

Regaleali Rosé / 1996 / Rosato Sicilia
Delicious strawberry fruit and a touch of spice. Always a favorite as an apertif.

Réserve St. Martin “Val d’Orbieu” Rosé de Syrah / 1997 / Vin de Pays d’Oc
100% Syrah
A fresh, fruity, strawberry bubblegum flavor makes this a nice choice for those who like the white zin style but want to try something new.

Roussel “Domaine des Jonciers” / 1996 / Lirac
A nice earthy nose, lots of fresh cherry fruit and a touch of spice. A bit bolder and bigger than most of the wine tasted and holds up well with dishes that have a bit more weight themselves.

Château Routas “Rouvière” / 1996 / Coteaux Varois
65% Cinsault, 25% Grenache, 10% Syrah
Slightly bitter cherry fruit, light spice, and a good finish. One of the more pleasant southern French rosés tasted.

Mas Sainte Berthe “Cuvée Passe-Rose” / 1996 / Les Baux de Provence
40% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 13% each Cinsault, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon
Good acidity, fresh berries with a squirt of lime juice – a whole fruit salad in a glass. The most impressive of the southern French rosés.

Jaume Serra Rosado / 1997 / Penedès
100% Tempranillo
Lightly earthy, bright berry fruit. A nice choice with lighter meats.

Martinez Bujanda Valdemar Vino Rosado / 1997 / Rioja
100% Garnacha
Proving the point that youth is critical in good rosé, this is vibrant, full of fresh cherry and berry flavors, a touch of spice and absolutely delicious before or during a meal.

Vega Sindoa Rosado / 1996 / Navarra
Tempranillo, Garnacha
Raspberries and cinnamon in a light, easy drinking style. Good acidity makes it a nice partner for seafood dishes.

Moderate:

Château d”Aqueria Tavel / 1996
Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette
Cherries and cream, with a bit of spice and green tea on the finish. Very enjoyable, especially with spicier fish dishes.

Michele Calo e Figli “Mjère” / 1996 / Alezio Rosato
80% Negroamaro, 20% Leccese Malvasia
Creamy smooth, plums and a touch of cilantro. One of the more intriguing rosés tasted and a great complement to spicier cuisine.

Domaine Bruno Clair Rosé / 1996 / Marsannay
100% Pinot Noir
One of my favorite pink wines of the world. Deep berry fruit, earthy, spicy, the perfect foil for salmon and other “meaty” fish.

Château de L’Engarran “St. Georges d’Orques” / 1996 / Coteaux du Languedoc
Bright strawberry fruit and a touch of creaminess make this one of my favorites from southern Franc.

Etude Rosé / 1996 / Carneros
100% Pinot Noir
Bright, lively fruit, spice and a touch of graham. Delicious on its own or with lighter meats.

Domaines Bunan Scea “Mas de la Rouvière” / 1996 / Bandol
Grenache, Cinsault
Light, delicate fruit with a nice minerally component. A great creamy mouthfeel. A nice pairing with your first course.

Prestige:

Swanson Rosato / 1997 / Napa Valley
100% Sangiovese
Strawberries, spice and a touch of candy corn. Great with pasta and cream sauces.

The following wines (leaving out those that were oxidized or corked) were in my original submission but were edited out by the magazine:

J. Vidal-Fleury Tavel / 1996
50% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, 5% Other
Light berry flavors, a bit of yeast, and very delicate. As an apertif or with hors d’oeurves.

Château Ferry Lacombe “Cuvée Lou Cascaï” / 1996 / Cotes de Provence
Bright cherry fruit and a touch of lime flowers. There is a faint greeness on the finish which is not unpleasant. A nice apertif or salad partner.

Les Clos de Paulilles / 1996 / Collioure
Strawberry and watermelon bubblegum in spades. If you’re looking from a light, fruity quaff, this makes a nice alternative to the usual white zin.

Canei Mellow Rosé / N.V. / Italy
Grapey, orange marmalade, definitely off-dry and a touch of spice.

Fonseca “Lancers” Rosé / N.V. / Portugal
Fizzy, off-dry, and tasting of strawberries and cream. Surprisingly better than expected.

Sogrape “Mateus” Rose / N.V. / Portugal
Slightly fizzy, dry, with flavors of rasperries and citrus. Far better quality than many far more expensive white zins…

Marqués de Cáceres Dry Rose / 1996 / Rioja
Light earthiness, strong floral notes and slightly underripe cherries. As an apertif this makes a tasty glass of wine.

Bodegas Montecillo Rosado / 1996 / Rioja
100% Garnacha
Sour cherries with a touch of spice and wood. A little too high in acidity to balance well for my tastes.

Firestone Vineyard “Gemstone” / 1995 / Santa Ynez Valley
84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, 4% Muscat
Toasted marshmallows, a touch of earth and a hint of flowers. Just a touch of oxidation. An oddity, recommended with duck and game birds.

Heitz Cellar Grignolino Rosé / 1996 / Napa Valley
100% Grignolino
Strawberry jam and a touch of lime juice. A nice choice with lighter poultry dishes.

Pedroncelli Zinfandel Rosé / 1997 / Sonoma County
100% Zinfandel
Sweet honey, light berry fruit – no different from the typical white zin.

Saintsbury Vin Gris / 1997 / Carneros
100% Pinot Noir
Green fruit, a bit of a spritz, not particularly exciting.

Sokol Blosser Vin Gris / 1997 / Oregon
100% Pinot Noir
Raspberries, lemon juice and a bit of earth. Also has a bit of a spritz. An interesting apertif.

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

You know the question. You dread hearing it. “Do you have a dry white wine? I only drink dry wines. And not too fruity.”

You already know that they’re on a budget. You can see it in their eyes. Nonetheless, someone at the table will make sure to make a joke about how poor they are and how inexpensive you should keep the bottle. Someone else at the table will tell you they like really light wines, like “Chardonnay or White Burgundy”. Where’s a sommelier to go from here?

Playing the Game

I’d like to say that it’s time for us to set the rules, but you know that isn’t going to happen. The customer sets the rules, we get to play the game. How we play the game is up to us. We have two options. We can opt for the easy route, the low road – pick them a nice, cheap, Chardonnay that will be the same as the last hundred bottles of wine they’ve had out in restaurants. Or, we can remember why we got into this business in the first place – the fun of educating and introducing our customers to wines they might otherwise not try. So what’s it going to be? Are you up for the game? Is your wine list?

There are thousands of inexpensive white wines out there in the world, and a huge portion of them are probably available in your market. Hopefully, you’ve found yourself some quality salespeople from your local distributors. You can give them the parameters, and they will show up with stuff actually worth drinking.

Unfortunately, too often, in too many parts of this country, salespeople are given quotas to fill. You don’t have the time to point them in the direction you’d really like to go, so you both end up settling for “a deal.” In simple terms, you end up with swill on your list that nobody really likes. The worst part is that your customers probably won’t tell you they didn’t like the cheap bar wine, or low-end bottle, but they will tell their friends.

Calling the Shots

My first challenge, in putting together a sampling of wines for “$30 and under light whites” was to figure out what they were. Pricing schemes around the country are so variable, even within any given market, that selecting a cut-off point is nearly impossible. A brief survey of quality restaurants here in New York City reveals markups that range from less than twice to over seven times cost.

I ended up opting for using my own restaurant’s pricing policy (twice plus $10), which gave me a cut-off somewhere in the $120-130 per case range. Although I didn’t set out to place a lower limit on cost, I found that in looking for quality wines that showed good varietal character (i.e., were not just innocuous, unidentifiable white wine), nothing under $60 per case made the cut.

“Light” is obviously just as subjective. My initial urge was to eliminate all Chardonnays, Viogniers and Semillons, because, in general, they are a bit fuller, but I decided that was unfair to the wineries that don’t go that route. Then I thought that I’d go for only wines that have no oak contact, but sometimes a little bit of oak just rounds out the wine.

I finally decided on a random selection and figured that I’d end up eliminating a few as I tasted. This turned out to be the case; two wines that I particularly enjoyed and highly recommend, Marqués de Murrieta’s “Ygay” Rioja Reserva, 1992 and Peter Lehmann’s Barossa Semillon, 1996, couldn’t be considered “light” by any definition of the word.

The Scoreboard

For my money, honors go to Sauvignon Blanc. Consistently, I found good varietal character, whether it was the classic Old World grassy style or the New World melon-scented and -flavored style. They were also, all around, a delight to drink, working well both on their own as aperitifs and pairing with a wide variety of cuisines.

In the minds of the public, and probably a large number of restaurant wine buyers, Italian white wines are automatically classified as light, simple, and undistinguished. Working with a predominately Italian winelist, I know that this is mostly myth. Not only are there numerous, fuller-bodied Italian whites, but more importantly, simple and undistinguished is anything but on target.

Surprisingly, only one pure Pinot Grigio made the cut. For the most part, those with enough quality to be of interest are priced out of the range I was reviewing. The majority of inexpensive Pinot Grigio could have just been labeled “white wine to wash food down with.” The most interesting whites from Italy were those that combined the talents of several grape varieties; some of them, such as the schizophrenic Franco-Italian blend in Montecarlo, have been made this way for years.

I was especially interested to see the white Rioja’s. I know that a lot of the producers have put an enormous investment in time and money into improving them over the last two decades. Gone, for the most part, is the heavy, oxidized style that characterized both white and red in this part of Spain. But reds have overshadowed the whites in the wine media, and it was delightful to discover the fresh, clean flavors these wines now have.

I’ve always liked really aromatic white wines, and Riesling and Gewürztraminer pretty much top the list. There aren’t many in the lower end range, especially for Gewürz, but it was a pleasure to find that there were some truly delicious choices available. Viognier, in a lighter style from southern France, also made the hit list.

Perhaps the nicest surprise was some of the odd-lot varietals that showed up on my doorstep. Colombard showed that it had the stuff to be something more than a blending grape. Chenin Blanc, a Loire Valley fave, really shines in some lower-end Californians. Chasan, a cross between Chardonnay and Palomino, was something I’d never tasted before, but hope to again.

The Post Game Show

None of us has a lot of free time. Between managing a wine cellar, managing our floor staff, writing and reading memos, and three thousand sundry chores that pop-up weekly, who has time to really taste through quantities of wine? Not to mention, and don’t let your restaurant owner see this, some of us want a social life.

Hopefully, I’ve done a little bit of the work for you, but the wines I’ve chosen are my own personal tastes, and may not even be available in your marketplace. You will need to put in a bit of time yourself: seeing what’s available locally, guiding your sales reps in what you want to add to your list, and, simply, tasting.

The tasting is key, of course. Because your customers will be doing just that when you pop a cork. Remember, whether your low-end light whites, or for that matter full whites, light reds or full reds, are good or bad, they’ll tell their friends, who will tell their friends, who will… Game’s over.

REVIEWER’S CHOICE

Carmenet / 1995 Edna Valley, Paragon Vineyard / Reserve / California
75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon
Delicious orchard fruit, beeswax and honey make this one of the better white meritages that I’ve tasted. Borderline to be called light-bodied, but it could go either way.

Mazzini / 1996 Montecarlo Bianco / Tuscany, Italy
Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Vermentino, Trebbiano
Apples, pineapple and melons in a delicious round package. The complexity of the variety of grapes really shines through in this classic. Perfect with poultry.

Santa Rita / 1997 Sauvignon Blanc / Reserva / Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Like its non-reserve counterpart, grapefruit and lemon, with grass and herbs, but more concentrated, more extracted, and, well, just more. Absolutely delicious with chicken or veal dishes.

The Full Line-up

Bertani Duè Uvè / 1995 / Italy
50% Pinot Grigio, 50% Sauvignon Blanc
Very green and grassy, grapefruit rind and a touch of spritz. Fresh and clean, this will work with stronger shellfish, especially with herbal sauces. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc, 516-362-9642, $92/case]

Bouchaine Dry Gewürztraminer / 1996 / Russian River Valley, California
100% Gewürztraminer
In classic style, this is chock full of lychees and rose petals in a bone-dry package. The acidity works beautifully with cheese dishes. [Bouchaine Vineyards, 707-252-9065, $100/case]

Carmenet / 1996 Colombard / Old Vines, Saviez Vineyard / Napa Valley, California
100% Colombard
Yeast, butter and fresh strawberries and raspberries made this a tasty surprise – it’s not often that Colombard shows this quality. A perfect brunch wine on a warm weekend afternoon. [Chalone Wine Group, 707-254-4250, $72/case]

Carmenet / 1995 Reserve, Paragon Vineyard / Edna Valley, California
75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillon
Delicious orchard fruit, beeswax and honey make this one of the better white meritages I’ve tasted. Borderline to be called light-bodied, but it could go either way. [Chalone Wine Group, 707-254-4250, $128/case]

Casa Julia / 1996 Sauvignon Blanc / Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Fresh grapefruit, grapefruit rind and a touch of graham cracker sweetness. Perfect for sitting on the front stoop, steamy hot weather, watching the world go by. If you have an outdoor seating area, make this your summer bar pour. [T. Edward Wines, Ltd., 212-233-1504, $72/case]

Castello di Tassarolo / 1996 S Gavi / Italy
100% Cortese
Honeydew melon, lime juice and flowers with a slightly bitter finish – basically what Gavi should be. Try this with vegetable dishes, it will brighten the flavors all around. [Empson (U.S.A.) Inc., $124/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Coriole / 1996 Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc / McLaren Vale, South Australia
60% Semillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc
Honey, beeswax, orange rind and spices, an absolutely delicious example of this blend. It worked beautifully with a chicken in orange sauce. [New World Wines Pty., Ltd., 202-244-3040, $120/case]

Duca di Salaparuta / 1995 Colomba Platino / Italy
80% Inzolia, 20% Grecanico
Honeydew melon, light spice and a touch of asparagus. A nice apertif wine, and a decent choice with lighter composed salads. [Paterno Imports, Ltd., 847-604-8900, $124/case]

Dry Creek Vineyards / 1996 Dry Chenin Blanc / Clarksburg, California
100% Chenin Blanc
Classic green apple and honey with a touch of yeastiness, this is what good Chenin Blanc is all about. Try the traditional match with oysters or clams on the half shell, or any good cold seafood platter. [Dry Creek Vineyard, 707-433-1000, $76/case]

Fillaboa / 1996 Albariño/ Rias Baixas, Spain
100% Albariño
Cantaloupe and limes, always a great combination. The bright acidity and smooth flavors worked really nicely with spicy, garlicky tapas. [European Cellars Direct, $128/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Georges Dubœuf / 1996 Saint-Véran / Burgundy, France
100% Chardonnay
Freshly picked apples and a touch of herbs – a great alternative when you don’t want a lot of oak and butter in your Chardonnay. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., $89/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Gini / 1996 Soave Classico Superiore / Veneto, Italy
100% Garganega
Fresh lemons and citrus flowers with a bit of that Italian zip. Nice with lighter pastas, especially with a touch of cream or butter. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $108/case]

Grand Cru Vineyards / 1996 Chardonnay / California
100% Chardonnay
Buttery oak, pears and a touch of spice. Nicely put together and a truly decent choice with a lighter dinner. [Classic Wines of California, 800-692-5780, $80/case]

Hacienda / 1997 Clair de Lune Chardonnay / California
100% Chardonnay
Flat and watery, with little more to offer than too much new oak. Not recommended. [Hacienda Wine Cellars, $66/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Hidden Cellars / 1996 Sauvignon Blanc / Mendocino, California
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Saltwater taffy, cantaloupe and a touch of lemon zest show a radically different style than the typical Sauvignon Blanc, but it does say California white wine in spades. Nobody would be upset to be served a bottle of this. [Hidden Cellars Winery, 707-462-0301, $112/case]

Lolonis / 1996 Fumé Blanc / Redwood Valley, California
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Very forward melons and pears with a touch of yeast. Pairing this with a touch of chicken seems a perfect choice. [Lolonis Winery, 510-938-8066, $112/case]

Lungarotti / 1996 Bianco di Torgiano Torre di Giano / Umbria, Italy
70% Trebbiano, 30% Grechetto
Light and basic with lime zest and lime blossom notes and just a hint of spice. Good with lighter fare; try it with sushi! [Paterno Imports, Ltd., 847-604-8900, $96/case]

Marco Felluga / 1996 Pinot Grigio / Friuli, Italy
100% Pinot Grigio
Crisp apples and spice with just a faint hint of metallic minerals. Delicious as a house pour and pairs beautifully with fish and lighter pasta dishes. [Felluga USA, Inc., 707-257-7453, $112/case]

Marqués de Cáceres / 1996 Rioja / Spain
100% Viura
Citrus, herbal and a touch of honey all blend together in this bright, easy drinking wine that is perfect as an apertif. It may be cliché, but try it with good tapas. [Vineyard Brands, Inc., 205-980-8802, $62/case]

Mazzini / 1996 Montecarlo Bianco / Tuscany, Italy
Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Roussanne, Vermentino, Trebbiano
Apples, pineapple and melons in a delicious round package. The complexity of the variety of grapes really shines through in this classic. Perfect with poultry. [Michael Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300, $88/case]

Bodegas Montecillo / 1996 Rioja Viña Cumbrero / Spain
100% Viura
Honey, herbs, and citrus with just a touch of spritz. Perfect as an apertif or with lighter shellfish dishes. [W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., 914-273-1221, $62/case]

Perrin / 1995 Réserve Côtes-du-Rhône / France
Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc
Floral with a touch of honey and citrus, this is a simple, easy drinking wine. Works well as an apertif or slightly premium bar pour. [Vineyard Brands, Inc., $96] (this review was left out of the final print article)

S.A.T. Los Curros / 1996 Rueda Tierra Buena / Spain
50% Verdejo, 50% Viura
Toast and herbs dominate a touch of orchard fruits with a long, spicy finish. A nicely balanced package that will stand up to boldly flavored foods. [The Barcelona Collection, Ltd., 904-280-1156, $56/case]

S.A.T. Los Curros / 1996 Rueda Viña Cantosán / Spain
100% Verdejo
Honeydew melon and straw with bright acidity, this is a very pleasant, easy drinking wine that I would be most happy with as an apertif. [The Barcelona Collection, Ltd., 904-280-1156, $61/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Sanford / 1996 Sauvignon Blanc / Central Coast, California
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Butter and honey dominate the nose, but the palate is balanced by bright melon and spice flavors. An interesting choice for those who like fruitier wines, pairs well with spicy foods. [Sanford Winery, 805-688-3300, $100/case]

Santa Rita / 1997 Sauvignon Blanc 120 / Maule Valley, Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Zesty grapefruit and lemon juices with a touch of grass and herbs. Perfect with a chicken salad lunch or just to drink as an apertif. [Vineyard Brands, Inc., 205-980-8802, $65/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Santa Rita / 1997 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva / Maule Valley, Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Like its non-reserve counterpart, grapefruit and lemon, with grass and herbs, but more concentrated, more extracted, and, well, just more. Absolutely delicious with chicken or veal dishes. [Vineyard Brands, Inc., 205-980-8802, $90/case]

Sella & Mosca / 1995 Vermentino di Sardegna / Sardinia, Italy
100% Vermentino
Consistent with the house style, this wine has nice herbal and citrus flavors and a bit of wheat germ on the nose. More of a spritz and slightly simpler than the “La Cala”, but quite similar. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 561-362-9642, $60/case] (this review was left out of the final print article)

Sella & Mosca / 1996 Vermentino di Sardegna La Cala / Sardinia, Italy
100% Vermentino
Light and crisp with a touch of a spritz. Citrus and herbal flavors with an interesting note of wheat germ. This works nicely with lighter pastas. [Palm Bay Imports, Inc., 561-362-9642, $80/case]

Stoneleigh / 1996 Sauvignon Blanc / New Zealand
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Intense grassiness and fresh raspberries are the hallmark of this classic. Delightful with shellfish and salads with strong vinaigrettes. [Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., 212-818-0770, $88/case]

Trefethen / 1996 Dry Riesling / Napa Valley, California
100% White Riesling
Light petrolly notes and a touch of orange rind, but somewhat neutral overall. An acceptable hot afternoon quaff. [Trefethen Vineyards, 707-255-7700, $108/case]

Vichon Mediterranean / 1995 Chasan / France
100% Chasan
Light and crisp with lots of bright citrus flavors and just a touch of herbs. This makes a really nice hot afternoon quaff and a delightful apertif. [Robert Mondavi Winery, 707-226-1395, $90/case]

Vichon Mediterranean / 1995 Viognier / France
100% Viognier
Classic aromas of peaches and cream in a fresh, light styled package. The perfect accompaniment to grilled chicken (and it stood up to a mustard sauce). {Robert Mondavi Winery, 707-226-1395, $90/case]

Weingut Kurt Darting / 1996 Riesling Kabinett Ungsteiner Bettelhaus / Germany
100% Johannisberg Riesling
Rose petals and sweet orange marmalade are as mouth-filling as the wine’s moniker. For someone who wants an off-dry wine, this is hard to beat. [Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., 516-677-9300, $112/case]

Willamette Valley Vineyards / 1996 Pinot Gris / Oregon
97.5% Pinot Gris, 2.5% Chardonnay
Creamy smooth, with subtle flavors of tangerine and pepper, this wine stands up nicely to creamier cheeses, smoked or cured fish; in short, the perfect brunch wine. [Willamette Valley Vineyards, 800-344-9463, $120/case]

Willamette Valley Vineyards / 1996 Riesling / Oregon
90% Riesling, 9% Müller-Thurgau, 1% Muscat
Peaches and cream, floral notes and limes, the latter especially on the finish. Notedly sweet, though with good acidity to balance. Great with a cold shellfish platter. [Willamette Valley Vineyards, 800-344-9463, $80/case]

Yarra Ridge / 1996 Sauvignon Blanc / Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Butter, grass and concentrated cantaloupe – the style screams Australia. The balance is just right for a chilled shellfish platter. [Mildara Blass Wines, Inc., 919-846-5800, $98/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

Dan Perlman is the Wine Director at Felidia Ristorante in New York City, a columnist and food and wine editor for Q San Francisco magazine, and a private chef

Caviar, foie gras, truffles and champagne went from movie screen fantasy to daily fare at the diner down the block. Drinks that were rack became call and then top shelf. Top shelf itself came into being and proliferated on every bar back. Tips were as big as the drinks themselves. A sommelier needed knowledge of little more than the five first growths, DRC, Gaja and maybe how to lever out a cork. If the Court of Master Sommeliers had based their exams on a true “need to know” basis, we’d have thousands of MS’s running around the country.

Everyone was spending money on becoming a foodie or trendy drinker. Doctors, lawyers, bankers, professors and anyone else with a professional title were using corporate credit cards to satisfy the slightest culinary craving. Even the file clerk down the hall had an expense account.

Welcome to the 90’s. Tax reform and economic trends have stripped those magical sign-now-pay-later phantasms from all but the top echelon. The question has gone from “what vintage Bordeaux?” to “what bargain Merlot?” Cellar management has become an exercise in breadth rather than depth and sales have gone from a snap of the corkscrew blade back to the art of diplomacy.

But the top stuff still sells. Who’s buying it? The one class of professional that has the leveraged financing to pull it off is still ordering. The one class that retains those mystical expense accounts are investment bankers – young, hotshot, generally but not always male, looking for that meteoric rise in income, knowing that it won’t last, but enjoying life’s pleasures while it does.

Now, I preface the next bit with the caveat that this is a generalization. (Any investment banker who is quite sure he or she doesn’t fit this description, please consider yourself an exception.) Let’s face it, as wine buyers, we’ve all attended auctions and seen prices skyrocket as guys with too much cash pay outrageous sums based on vintage charts from their magazine of choice. We’ve all had one who ordered a bottle from the right-hand side of the page without a clue as to its content and then announced to his friends at the table what he was paying for whatever he was getting. High school locker room-size comparisons just change form, they don’t go away.

I give you, however, a particular evening. It was a typical night. A party of four late-twenty-somethings popped in, the host a weekly visitor, each time with a new trio in tow. Without fail, our leader ordered his usual bottle of ‘76 Lafite. I presented the bottle for his inspection, and, as always, presented it to each of this evening’s friends so that they could see what he had bought for them to toss down after a couple rounds of martinis. As I served the bottle, I quietly mentioned to the young gentleman that this was the last in our cellar. He stopped the conversation at the table with a wave of his hand and asked me when I intended to get more. I said, regretfully, that it was unlikely that any more was available for our purchase. Without a pause, he slammed his fist on the table and shouted, “Do you know who I am?! Call the factory and have them make more!”

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.