Organization Newsletters

One Leaf, Every Day

Wednesday, September 16, 20200

By request from a friend who is the editor for the The World Congress of GLBT Jews, I wrote up this little piece for their High Holidays 5781/2020 newsletter, which came out today.

Taking on reading a long, intricate novel can be a daunting task, especially if you’re expected to not just read it, but study and discuss it. When it popped into my awareness that a new cycle of the Daf Yomi was starting at the beginning of 2020, an idea began to form. Like many Americans of my generation, I was brought up in a Jewish household that started off somewhat leaning Conservative, but moved more and more towards Reform as the years went on. I knew the Talmud existed, occasionally our rabbi would drop a pearl of wisdom into a sermon or conversation. But I never studied it.

It was enough to have learned the basics of the Torah, and a bit from other books of the bible. The Talmud was relegated to the world of yeshiva boys and Yentl. It was in ancient Hebrew and Aramaic. An English version didn’t exist until 2012, just in time for the last Daf Yomi cycle, even that was just a “beta version”, and its 22 volumes rang in with a price tag in the thousands of dollars. But this time around, taking on studying “a page a day”, or to be pedantic, “a leaf a day”, since it’s two pages back to back, of the 2,711 leaves, had the advantage of the online treasure trove of Jewish texts, Sefaria, making the entire thing available for free. There’s even an app.

I’m not particularly religious. I have my moments. Upfront, I wanted to approach what I “knew” to be the rabbinic laws around the Torah from the perspective of a cultural observer. Assuming it to be dry reading, I figured a week or two into the project I’d probably abandon it, with a shrug, hey, gave it a try. Within a day or so, I was hooked. Imagine, if you will, a group of rabbis, sages, priests, and wise men, sitting around, day after day, for years, starting off with a discussion of a legal point, and going off on the tangents that any group of intimate friends might. And someone is writing it all down. All of it. Every digression, every one-off comment.

What starts with a point of law leads into tangents on topics as varied as food and cooking, construction, sorcery and demons, and sex. A lot of sex. They have provided fodder for a running daily twitter-ish commentary that I’ve been publishing that runs the gamut from recipes for fig cakes; whether Jesus’ (yes, that one) cooking skills are not up to par; bathhouse etiquette; appropriate gifts to the mothers of young boys you’ve molested; to how to cruise the marketplace and not look “too gay”. It’s been going on nine months now, twenty minutes or so over my morning coffee, and I’ve found myself fascinated with a look back at the culture of our ancestors from centuries, if not millennia, past. Only around seven more years to go.

Dan is an author, sommelier, chef, and restaurateur living in Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Hopefully his highly rated “closed-door” restaurant Casa Saltshaker will open again soon, post pandemic.

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Organization Newsletters

Wine Notes May – June 1997

Thursday, May 1, 19970

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
May – June 1997

Who’s Fiddling With Pinot Nero?

Pinot Nero, more commonly known to us by its French name, Pinot Noir, is a member of the family that includes Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco as well. Perhaps more than any other red wine, Pinot Nero harmonizes with a wide range of foods, spices and herbs. At ist best,  it is pure sensuality. For the winemaker, it is, perhaps, the most difficult challenge faced. Pinot Nero is notoriously difficult to grow, and even more difficult to capture its spirit in a quality wine.

Best known, and probably best expressed historically, Pinot Nero is the grape variety responsible for virtually all red Burgundy (except Beaujolais). More and more “new world” Pinots are appearing – California and Oregon have become famous for their quality offerings, South Africa and Australia offer their own styles that are rapidly making their mark. But, perhaps the least known, despite years of cultivation and quality wine production, are the Italian Pinot Neros.

Generally lighter in style than the Burgundian style, Italian Pinot Nero shows the elegance and grace of the fruit. Sample Felidia’s offerings from the norther regions of Trentino and Alto Adige – from the lighter, simpler drinking wines of Franz Haas and Cantina Sociale di La Vis to the heartier, richer riserva style from Alois Lageder. Falling in between, Girolamo Dorigo from the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region in the northeast offers a wine that is light yet complex. Toscana is famous for the depth of extraction of its wines and the delightfully intense single vineyard offering from Fontodi is no exception.

Stylistic comparisons can be a fun pursuit, especially when exploring the world of wine. From the United States, we offer a selection spanning the west coast – Sanford in Santa Barbara, Jed Steele in Carneros, Gary Farrell in the Russian River Valley, El Molino in Napa, Cameron and Adlesheim in Oregon.

France, too, has its place on our list, with a sampling of top growths from Burgundy. Volnay, Clos de Vougeot, Musigny, Echezeaux and Vosne-Romanée are currently in place from, respectively, Pousse d’Or, Arnoux, de Vogüé, Mongeard-Mugneret and Leroy. And don’t miss our latest Swiss offering, the Dôle des Monts from Robert Gilliard, a blend of both of the famed red grapes of Burgundy, Gamay and Pinot Nero.

Sommelier Q&A

What do all those letters on Italian wine labels mean – VDT, IGT, DOC, DOCG, e?

VDT – Vino da tavola, or table wine is a catch-all designation for wines that fall either below or above the officially recognized regional denominations. Some are wines that are simply not of a quality level to qualify for “quality” wine status, while others exceed the level or use grapes which are not approved for the region’s wines, e.g., the so-called “Super-Tuscans”.

IGT – Indicazioni geografiche tipiche is rarely seen.  This is a fairly recent category designed to fill a void between the lesser VDTs and the small regional denominations. IGT typically covers large regions and is similar to the Vin de Pays of France.

DOC & DOCG – Denominazione di origine controllata (e garantia) are the top quality wine designations in Italy. These categories guarantee such things as growing area, vineyard yields, grape varieties, aging, and aromatic and taste characteristics. The “garantia” puts even stricter controls on wines.

e – is the symbol used to designate a wine approved for distribution in the European Community.

 

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Wine Notes March – April 1997

Tuesday, March 11, 19970

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
March – April 1997

Barbera: The People’s Wine of Piemonte

Barbera is the second most widely planted red grape in Italy after Sangiovese. Although most at home in Piemonte, Barbera is planted throughout a large portion of northern and central Italy, and its origins lie in Lombardia. Versatile and productive, the grape is a favorite of Italian wine connoisseurs worldwide and the every day choice of a multitude of Italian consumers.

Wine made from Barbera varies from light to full bodied, from dry to sweet, from still to downright fizzy. Still, Barbera has certain characteristics that hold true throughout its many guises. Common are its aromatic notes of violets, roses and cherries. A deep ruby color, that in the past was often used to “color correct” Nebbiolo based wines is a hallmark. Low tannins and fairly high acidity, much like the more well known Pinot Noir show in the majority of wines.

Much Barbera is made in a lighter, fruity style, something that shows in wines such as Icardi “Sur di Mù” and Azienda Abbona “Ravera”. Barrique, or small new barrel, aging is becoming increasingly common to add depth and complexity to the wine. Top examples include “Bricco della Bigota” from Giacomo Bologna and Bava “Stradivario”.

Single vineyard Barberas are becoming more and more common with wonderful selections found in Coppi “Pomorosso”, Michele Chiarlo “Valle del Sole”, and Villa Fiorita “Il Giorgione”. Barbera is also often blended with other native grapes to produce a more complex, more interesting wine. Our favorites include Il Bacialé, a blend with Pinot Nero, and Maneiro, a blend with the delicate Freisa grape. More recently, California wine producers have begun to experiment with the vine. While many of the selections we have seen were not of the quality we like to see, we think we’ve found a uniquely delicious example from Preston Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley.

Sommelier Q&A

What do you mean by “full-bodied” or “light-bodied”?

“Body” is a wine-tasting term for the perceived weight of wine on the palate. By perceived, we mean the sensation in the mouth of fullness, or richness. The major component of wine is water, which, to most people, would not qualify as a particularly “full-bodied” liquid. But the second most important component is alcohol, and the alcohol level in a wine is a major factor in the perception of body. The extract, or dissolved solids, in a wine, such as tannins, sugars, and flavor components can also have a significant effect.

An important point to note is that body is not related to quality. However, full-bodied wines do tend to make a more obvious impression, which may lead to the perception of higher quality. Sometimes, though, less is more….

Felidia Goes Global

Our regular guests will note a new section to our winelist. We have embarked on a search for the “cream of the crop” from around the globe. Expanding on our existing selection of Italian, American and French wines, we will be adding in wine from around the glove. This section with remain intentionally small and very selective, only the best, in our collective opinion, from each country will be included.

 

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Wine Notes – January-February 1997

Thursday, January 2, 19970

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
January – February 1997

One of the more enjoyable tasks we have at our restaurants is the search for new wines. Our staff were invited to spend a day out searching the hills of the Hudson Valley for something new in the local wine world. As you can see, we put in a long, hard day up at Millbrook Vineyards. Though we sampled Millbrook’s selection during a tour of the winery with marketing director Doug Simon, we felt it necessary to continue our research. The idyllic weather gave us the perfect opportunity to pair them with food in a more natural setting. You’ll find our “pick of the litter” in Millbrook’s Tocai Friulano, a light, crisp white, perfect as an apertif or with lighter dishes. Pictured from left to right: Felidia sommelier Dan Perlman, Felidia general manager Amgad Wahba, public relations director Shelly Burgess, and Becco & Frico manager Simon Dean; photo by Felidia kitchen extern Ross Posmentier.

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Just Desserts

Food and wine are naturals together, we all know that. We pair whites and lighter reds with fish and pastas, bigger reds with meats and even here and there try some more interesting combinations. But often we overlook the chance to try a wine match at the end of the meal. True, we indulge in the occasional glass of port or madeira, but we generally don’t even glance at the dessert wines.

But what could be more natural than a refreshing and lightly sparkling Moscato d’Asti or Asti Spumante with fruit or sorbet? How about a rich Sauternes, Torcolato, Acininobili or Recioto della Valpolicella with chocolate? Or any of a range in between – Picolit, Vin Santo, Malvasia – just to name a few.

At Felidia, we offer anywhere from two to three dozen selections, a few by the glass, most by the half or full bottle. We prefer to call them Vini da Meditazione, or Wines of Meditation, because these are wines that help you to sit back, relax, and contemplate not just the sensations on your palate, but your entire food and wine experience at our table.

Sommelier Q&A

Can you tell me a little about the different types of dessert wines? I hear about things like “late-harvest”, “botrytis”, “ice wine” and the like, and I don’t know what those are.

The simplest one you asked about is “late-harvest”. The grapes are left hanging on the vine after normal picking time. This allows them to get extra ripe and extra flavorful. The increased sugar levels in late-harvested grapes means that when they are fermented, the wine will stay sweet.

“Botrytis” is the species name of a type of beneficial fungus that grows on grapes in certain conditions. The fungus literally pokes holes in the grape skins, allowing water to evaporate and concentrating both sugar and flavor. That and the flavors of the fungus itself create some of the world’s greatest dessert wines.

“Ice wine” or “eiswein” is an extreme version of late-harvesting. Grapes are left on the vines until the first freeze. They are picked while frozen, crushed and fermented. Because much of the water is ice the juice pressed from the grapes is extremely concentrated. Ice wines are rare because the chances of grapes surviving the first freeze of the season are slim, and few winemakers care to take their chances.

Dan Perlman, Sommelier

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Wine Notes: December 1996 – January 1997

Sunday, December 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
December 1996 – January 1997

Tiny Bubbles

What exactly is this bubbly stuff that set everyone but Cole Porter a tingle? Where does it come from? How is it made? Whose idea was it anyway?

Let’s start with the last question. Despite common myth, it was not everyone’s favorite little monk, Dom Pérignon. In fact, it was no one person – whole bunches of favorite little monks, along with other local winemakers and grape growers – came up with the process. And the process is simple. Make wine, put it in a bottle, add a little sugar and yeast, and cork the bottle. The sugar and yeast ferment, creating carbon dioxide (remember that stuff from chemistry class?), and the gas is trapped in the bottle by the cork. Voila! As they say.

What dear old Pierre Pérignon did was create the principle of the “cuvée”, or blend. Rather than taking one house wine and making it sparkle, resulting in a simple, if still refreshing beverage, he blended wines of different flavors and styles before bottling, thus creating the complex bubbly juice that we now know and love. What he also did was come up with a light pressing procedure to obtain clear juice from red grapes.

Champagne is not only a wine, but a region, and by law, only grapes grown in the region, and made into wine in the region, may be called Champagne. The grapes are limited to three varieties; Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If a Champagne is made from only Chardonnay it may be called “blanc de blancs”. If from only the two Pinots, “blanc de noirs”. It may be made in any of several dry styles; Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Sec, or in sweet styles; Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux, all by adding a little more sugar, or not, at the end.

Most Champagne is non-vintage. That is, it is made from a blend of wines not only from different grapes and parts of the region, but from different years of production. Why? Because each Champagne house can create a “house-style” that reflects a particular character of bubbly they wish to promote. It may be light and crisp, it may be ponderous and toasty.

In particularly good years, vintners may opt to make a vintage champagne which is reflective more of the quality and style of the grapes and the harvest than the house style. At the pinnacle for most producers, a “tête de cuvée” or prestige blend, made from the best blending wines the house has available.

These same techniques have been carried throughout the winemaking world. The names have changed, the grapes have changed, but whether your sparkler comes from Champagne, France; Sonoma, U.S. of A.; or Veneto, Italy; the important thing is that it’s the perfect choice for starting your holiday season meal!

Sommelier Q&A

How often does a winelist this big change?

Daily. It’s our feeling that our customers deserve the best selection of wines and the best information we can provide about them. Every time they dine with us. Part of my job is to keep the list as up-to-date as possible to reflect new wines we’ve selected (you can’t drink them if you don’t know about them), when we run out of a wine (with over 500 selections dating back to the 1800s, this happens regularly, or even just a vintage change. It is a rare day when there isn’t at least one change somewhere on the list.

 

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Wine Notes – October-November 1996

Tuesday, October 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
October-November 1996

The Mushroom Connection

Fall is mushroom season, and they’re here. Over the next month or two, the two king mushrooms of Italian cooking, porcinis and truffles, are in plentiful supply. Special menu items, and, on some evenings, special entire menus will be devoted to these two delicious fungi.

With their rich flavors, these mushrooms need big wines that will complement their earthiness without overpowering them. Both white and red wines are appropriate, and we’ve added some wonderful wines that are perfect partners for you and your mushrooms.

For whites, try the full bodied Fiano d’Avellino Radici from Mastroberardino; Valentini’s earthy style of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is another great choice. From our specialty region, Friuli, we’ve brought in the single vineyard Dessimis Pinot Grigio from Vie di Romans, and continue to offer Gravner Breg, a big, delicious barrique aged blend of local varietals.

In red wines, the two big classics of Italy are the winners here – Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. For porcinis, opt for the Sangiovese in any of its many forms: Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Carmignano, or treat yourself to one of our selection of “Super Tuscans”. Great choices include the ric, earthy, Fattoria Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva, or try a delicious older Brunello di Montalcino from producer Val di Suga. If you like a little spice with your earthiness, try Gattavecchi’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or investigate Carmignano Riserva from Capezzana. Any of the super Tuscans will be a match for the flavors of the porcinis, try Montevertine’s Il novantuno di Sergio Manetti, a special winemaker’s blend from the 1991 vintage, or splurge on an older bottle of Tignanello from the Marchese Antinori.

When the truffles arrive, it’s time to think Nebbiolo. The noble grape of Barolo and Barbaresco comes with its own aromas of truffles, roses, and old leather. These wines only improve wiht age and whether you go for an elegant style like Michele Chiarlo Barolo Granduca or Vietti Barbaresco, or go for big and solid like Marcarini or Ceretto Barolo or splurging on an incredible Gaja Barbaresco, you can’t beat these wine matches. And don’t overlook the lesser known Nebbiolos like Gattinara, Spanna, and Ghemme.

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Sommelier’s Corner … Answer to Your Questions

I’ve picked a wine, what do I do when you bring it to the table?

The first thing I’ll do is show you the bottle. I’ll tell you what it is. Why? Just to confirm that it’s what you meant to order. As the suave, sophisticated customer that you’re about to become, try not to get that glazed over panic look. You’re only looking for two things. Is it the right wine and is it the right vintage? This is a really good moment to pay close attention. First, I might have made a mistake. Especially if you ordered the wine from someone else, like when you thrust the list at the busboy and said something that to him sounded like, “Bring me the Chateau Marmaduke.” I’ve gotten really good at interpreting these missives, but now and then the translation is garbled. Second, you might have ordered by pointing casually at the menu or giving me a bin number. I may have mistaken where you were pointing, or you may have read off the wrong bin number. And lastly, you want to that I brought you the right vintage of the wine. Each year is different, and why shouldn’t you get what you’re paying for?

 

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Wine Notes – September-October 1996

Sunday, September 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
September-October 1996

To Decant or Not To Decant?

Decanting a wine is when we pour a wine from its bottle into a glass carafe called, appropriately enough, a decanter. There are two primary reasons for decanting. The first is to separate the wine from sediment in the bottle. Wine is a living, evolving liquid. As it ages, certain components join together creating particles big enough to settle to the bottom of the bottle. While not harmful to the wine or the drinker, sediment is aesthetically unpleasant and generally is best left behind. This is the reason decanting is done over a candle flame or other light source. It allows us to see through the wine and watch for the sediment reaching the neck of the bottle. It is also why it is best to avoid flipping the bottle around to look at a back label, or suddenly standing it up from a horizontal position – the sediment is stirred up and becomes inseparable from the wine.

The second reason for decanting is to aerate a wine. Certain wines, mostly full-bodied reds, benefit from aeration. Think of it as allowing a big wine that was cramped up in a small bottle to stretch. Merely removing a cork from a bottle does not allow a wine to “breathe” as is commonly assumed. If you think about it only a dime sized surface area is allowed contact with air – breathing could take hours in a full bottle. A decanter with a wider surface area, and the decanting process, provide optimal aeration.

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What’s Italian For Cabernet?

When most of us think of Cabernet we think of California. We may not realize that many of the world’s top red wines are made from Cabernet – Bordeaux for example. Italy probably never even enters our minds. Yet Italy produces some truly wonderful Cabernets and Cabernet blends. They are produced throughout the nation, from the far northeast in Friuli, to the islands of the south – Sicilia and Sardegna. Though different in style – not only from the California wines we are used to drinking – but also from each other, these wines are outstanding in their own right. Try an Italian Cabernet with your meal and open a new world of wine drinking for you and your guests.

  • Gaja is one of Piemonte’s premier producers, and his single vineyard Cabernet Darmagi is an outstanding example of the quality of wines he produces. A perfect partner wiht lamb or beef.
  • Although many Super Tuscans include Cabernet in their blend, Isole e Olena‘s Collezione de Marchi Cabernet is a pure standout. Its elegance is a match for our veal dishes.
  • From Sicily, Regaleali Cabernet Sauvignon is a full-bodied wine originally produced as an experimental addition to the Conte Tasca d’Almerita line. A touch of rustic styling makes this a delicious wine with game.
  • Cabernet Franc is often considered the lesser cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, Girolamo Dorigo proves there’s nothing lesser about it. This smoky, spicy red is a delight with aromatic sauces on meats or fish.
  • In Veneto, Fausto Maculan is considered a maverick. His rich, full-bodied Fratta and premium Ferrata vineyard Cabernets prove it. drink with poultry or meat dishes.
  • It may look unpronounceable, but Boccadigabbia‘s Akronte Cabernet is anything but undrinkable. Lush and ripe, this wine is ready to drink now with pasta, risotto, and mushrooms.

 

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Wine Notes: August – September 1996

Thursday, August 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
August – September 1996

Italian Whites that aren’t so light…

There are some things that we all just know about Italian white wines. They are all really light, dry, and don’t have a lot of flavor. Right? Wrong. Try these and other less familiar wines on for some bold flavors and lots of body.

Fiano de Avellino is often regarded as the most distinguished dry white wine of Italy’s south. Grown in Campania, this wine shows notes of pears, spices and toasted hazelnuts. We feature one of the best, from well known producer Mastroberardino.

Franciacorta, a Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco blend from Lombardia can be anything from light and easy drinking to a complex, wood aged wine. The single vineyard Rampaneto we offer from the Cavalleri family is a delightful example of the latter.

Featured Producer: Josko Gravner

Year in and year out, Josko Gravner produces some of the most complex and long-lived white wines from northeastern Italy. Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, specifically the Collio zone, Gravner makes beautifully handcrafted wines. Lightness of body, purity of fruit and a complexity imparted by his attention to detail in the vinification and aging processes results in wines that are a delight to the tastebuds.

Twenty of his twenty-three acres are planted to white grape varieties. Of his six wines, Felidia currently features three. Ribolla Gialla is a dry, light white with a nose of fresh herbs and white pepper. Approximately 15% of the grapes are fermented and aged in small oak barrels for five months and then blended with the remaining 85% which undergo more typical fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is subtle with a lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for fish dishes with aromatic sauces.

Gravner’s Sauvignon is racy and aristocratic, with a long, elegant finish. Typical of the varietal this wine has a very “green” nose, a touch of red berry fruit, and hints of sage and tomato. Finished with toasty new oak, this wine can stand up to a variety of dishes, from fish to poultry, especially those with a bit of spice.

“Breg” is the Slovenian word for slope or hillside. Gravner recently renamed his proprietary white cuvée Breg to reflect its special nature. A careful blending of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling Italico along with small quantities of wine from vines planted in 1915 – Glera, Pagadebit, Malvasia and Ribolla – produces Gravner’s finest wine. Elegant and light, yet complex enough to age for years, this wine makes a wonderful partner for dishes from simple pastas to robust meats.

Answers to your questions from our Sommelier

– What’s your job?

I’ll admit, I have what I think is one of the most fun jobs around. I try the food so I know what it tastes like. Wine salesmen bring me samples of wine that I ask for or that they want to sell to me. I get to sit around and taste it. Okay, some of the stuff is swill, that’s the downside. But then I get to have fun putting together a list of what a) I like, b) goes with the food, and c) will impress and interest our restaurant’s owners, the food critics, my colleagues, and, most importantly, you.

– Doesn’t it make me look stupid to ask you questions about the wines?

If we could all know everything about everything life would get really, really boring, very, very fast. You have no problem asking your captain what mahi-mahi is and whether it’s been grilled, broiled or fried with a three-herb semolina crust, or just exactly what’s in a mango-cauliflower crustace sauce with kaffir lime tuiles. Right? Even if you know something about wine, you just might not know everything about wine. Maybe we have a different vintage than you’ve tried. Maybe you don’t know what goes with kaffir lime tuiles. Maybe you haven’t a clue, period. The one person who knows more than anyone else about what’s on our winelist is me.

– So what should I ask you?

The opening salvo is simple. “What do you recommend that will go with our dinner, in the range of $…?” We’ll have a little conversation about what you plan to eat. And we’ll narrow it down and decide on something. You can then appear to weigh my answer and make a casual decision.

 

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