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ROME: The Eternal City

Q San Francisco
January 1999
Pages 26-30

ROME: The Eternal City
Images Brett Kaufman

roma1

The Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Imperial Fora, the Circus Maximus, the Sistine Chapel, the Borghese Palace, the list goes on and on. These are the ancient places you’ve read about since you were a kid. Welcome to The Eternal City!

Over the course of western literary history, more has been written about Rome than about any other single city on the planet. For the inveterate traveler, wanderer, amateur archaeologist, poet or artist, it is, perhaps, the one “must visit” city. It is hard to imagine a more fascinating assemblage of the ancient and the modern in one place.

During my years of reading about Rome two things always stood out. First, I was led to manifest visions of a city overrun by feral cats. Somehow or other there seemed to be more denizens of the feline variety than the human. When I arrived, I did find cats, scattered here and there, and indeed they do run free, but they tend to remain in small, localized areas of some of the older ruins dotted throughout the city.


“I should like to see Rome,” she said; “it must be a lovely city, or so many foreigners would not be constantly arriving there. Now, do give me a description of Rome. How does the city look when you enter in at the gate?”
– Beauty of Form and Beauty of Mind, Hans Christian Anderson


Second, I was led to believe that Rome existed as a city of fountains–which turned out to be absolutely true. Fountains are everywhere. Most of them are small, not quite nondescript. But the major ones are truly awesome. The foremost spouting water attraction in the world is undoubtedly the Fontana di Trevi, a massive, amazing sculpture of water and marble. A photo in front of this fountain, preferably in the evening when it is beautifully lit, is a must for tourist and Italian alike.

My fountain of choice is Fontana delle Tartarughe. Located in Piazza Mattei, this 16th century fountain has been modified by several major sculptors over time. The graceful sculpture depicts four young boys in the buff assisting four tortoises on their climb into the top of the fountain. The Tartarughe is also located near one end of one of my favorite streets in Rome, Via Giulia, the main street of the old Jewish Ghetto, now home to great little art galleries and design shops.

One of the most popular places to hang out and people watch is Piazza Navona. Crowds of locals and tourists gather round to watch artists and performers do their thing around this multi-block open space.

For myself, Piazza del Popolo is where I go to sit, soak up some sun and watch the world pass by while surrounded by four massive lion fountains that guard the space. Popolo is also known, by those who apparently know such things, as one of the piazzas where gay men and women congregate. Popolo makes a great starting spot for a day of sightseeing, equipped with gothic churches, ancient ruins and a fascinating Italian art museum.

Sightseeing is the major reason to vacation in Rome. There is, of course, the necessary visit to the Vatican Museums, especially the Sistine Chapel. If you don’t want to wait in line forever, get there early, take a walk through the Chapel first, and then go back to the Museums later. (Major tip: Don’t wear shorts or sleeveless shirts when touring Rome, especially in religion related places–Romans are notoriously conservative about mode of dress and will bluntly refuse you admission to most churches, and definitely Vatican City. The same is true of many restaurants.)

roma2If, like me, you are into really ancient ruins, a stop by the Largo Argentina for a look at the four Republican temples is well worth it. This square block area is also home to an amazing number of cats that have overrun the sacred grounds and are now considered kind of sacred themselves. A morning at the Imperial Forum and the Colosseum is impressive, however, access to the latter, and whole sections of the former, is limited because of crumbling rock and restoration attempts.

For the truly classical-oriented, a short train trip out to the 1st century city of Ostia Antica is an absolute must. I spent an entire day there exploring the ancient ruins. Some of the most fascinating mosaics, including a gym floor laid out in black and white tile pictures of naked athletes and an anatomical invitation floor mat at the local bathhouse, are a couple features sure to catch your eye.

Speaking of bathhouses, if you want to see what they were really all about, drop by and spend an hour or two at the Baths of Caracalla near the Circus Maximus. When operational, the Baths–equipped with gym, solarium, sauna, whirlpool and private lounges–handled 1600 people per day. You’ll never look at a modern “health club” the same way again!

If you want to be awed by a monument, go to the Pantheon. Incredibly well preserved and beautiful, it will take your breath away. Dating over two thousand years old, it is in better shape than many buildings built in the last century. While you’re in the neighborhood, you can drop by Piazza Minerva and see one of my favorite statues, a really cute little elephant.

The impressive Spanish Steps (with a great little fountain at the bottom, the scene of much cruising) is also, of course, a must visit. I prefer to start at the top, from where you get a full view of Rome, and walk down, though the fitness buffs among us will want to walk up. From the base of the steps you can hit the major shopping district where you will find every fashion designer in Rome along Via Condotti and Via Borgogna.

If you just want to relax and see some beauty, drop in and wander around the nearby Borghese Park where you can see everything from old villas to statuary, to a small lake, to the stunning Galleria Borghese (by appointment only).

DINING OUT

Food in Italy is, of course, a major concern. Let’s start simply. Coffee. More specifically, espresso. Two places serve exceptional espresso: Sant’Eustachio (82 Piazza Sant’Eustachio) and La Tazza d’Oro (84 Via degli Orfani), both near the Pantheon. Personally, I am a fan of the latter, but try both and decide for yourself. Also, in the late afternoon, La Tazza d’Oro serves a great espresso ice with whipped cream.

Ice cream, well, gelato, is an Italian passion. The most famous and most popular spot to get some frozen heaven is Giolitti at 40 Via Uffici del Vicario; with their array of flavors that makes Baskin Robbins look like amateurs, it’s tough to do much better. There is one exception, San Crispino. With two locations (56 Via Acaia, in the southern suburbs, and 42 Via della Panetteria, by Fontana di Trevi), they serve the most amazing ice cream you will ever have. The owners use only the absolutely best ingredients they can find: their house flavor uses honey from their own bees, their zabaglione flavor uses a twenty year old reserve marsala wine, their scotch flavor uses an eighteen year old single malt–an ethereal experience to say the least.

roma3You’re in Italy, so pizza, right? Not quite what you’re used to at home, but you’ll find the real thing here. Hands down, the best pizza I’ve ever had is from a little hole-in-the-wall called Da Giovanni, at 39 Piazza Campo de’Fiori. Piazza Campo de’Fiori is also one of the coolest places to hang out. There are several coffee bars, several wine bars (including one of the best, La Vineria, at #15), and one of the best open-air food markets you’ll ever visit. The other must see food markets for those who, like me, like to visit them, are at Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and, if you’re in the area of the Vatican, Piazza dell’Unità.

Now back to pizza; rather, Pizza Bianca–which is basically what we call focaccia. Simple, oiled, salted and sometimes herbed pizza dough baked light and delicious. Romans slice these open and fill them with a variety of meats, cheeses, and vegetables. The secret spot to acquire some has no name on the door, people just usually call it the “you know, the no-name focaccia place.” Owned by Salvadore Paladini, and located at 29 Via del Governo Vecchio, this is the one snack place you can’t miss in Rome. Have a Bianca filled with stracchino cheese and arugula while you sip some mineral water and stand around. Then take another one to have with you for when you get hungry later. Maybe stuffed with mortadella and cured Sicilian olives?

Few restaurants in Rome are really great, but almost all that I’ve eaten in are quite good. Here are the four that I would recommend you check out if you have little time and want to sample the best.

For lunch, Sora Margherita, at 30 Piazza delle Cinque Scole. This is a bargain priced osteria serving serious Roman-Jewish fare. Watch for owner Margherita Tomassini to serve you, with a twinkle in her eyes and a casual “signorine” (“ladies”) as she sets your food out.

For a simple dinner and great people watching, head over to the area around Piazza Navona. Hang for a bit and watch the world walk by, then walk down the little side street off the west side of the piazza to the corner of Via delle Pace, #25, and have a drink and dinner outside at Bramante. This savory little place is owned by friend Giuseppe Pecora. Tell him I said, “Buona Sera.”

For a great dinner and an incredible wine selection, you must visit Al Bric at 59 Via del Pellegrino–one of Rome’s newest wine bars that, unlike many wine bars, pays just as much attention to food. While not inexpensive, the selection of great Italian fare and wines is worth the tab. By the way, restaurants in Italy, generally, charge the same as retail stores for wine, so you won’t get hit with outrageous prices for your fave quaff.

Last, but by no means least, one of the best high-end restaurants in Rome is a place called Il Convivio, at 44 Via dell’Orso. Not particularly classic food and not even completely Italian, this restaurant offers more of the cutting edge of cuisine in Rome. If you want to see what a great chef in Rome is doing with modern multi-cultural cuisine, this is the spot you want to hit.

WHERE TO STAY

The fun thing about Roman accommodations is that you can live like a queen or live like a monk. There are plenty of good hotels in Rome ranging from really cheap to really expensive. Expect that hotel rooms will not be particularly large. In general, however, the hotels are clean and well-managed.

Hotel staff in Rome are notoriously helpful for making sure you enjoy your stay. Most hotels provide a Concierge who will get you restaurant reservations, gallery appointments, and provide you with directions and ideas for all sorts of things to do.

roma4If you don’t mind a room in which it’s hard to turn around without bumping into something, I recommend the Rinascimento, conveniently located near Campo dei’Fiori, at 122 Via del Pellegrino. A small (18 room) converted palazzo with modern, clean rooms, this is one of the better bargains you will find in Rome. Another good choice is Hotel Alexandra at 25 Via Veneto–a bigger hotel, with larger rooms, but still relatively inexpensive.

A last note on hotels. Make sure you have reservations and confirmation in advance. Rome is not a great place for people who show up planning to “wing it.” It’s a popular tourist destination and hotels rarely have rooms available for someone who just wanders in off the street.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR THE GAY TOURIST

Start from the following groundrules. This is a major European city controlled by one of the most rigid religious organizations on the planet. Living space is at a premium both in terms of availability and cost. Gay people have a choice of living with their parents till the day they “marry” or sharing a small apartment with way too many people. Friends expect each other to hang together, and they don’t really care about sexual orientation; they’re more interested in the clothes they wear, the movies they just saw, which coffee or wine bar is the present hot spot, and whether the sauce on last night’s pasta was made the way grandma used to make it. (Of course, that’s pretty much what you’re interested in as well!) So, it makes perfect sense that the only gay bars and clubs in Rome are oriented around tourists–nobody local really goes to them except occasionally to dance, or to show friends visiting from elsewhere that there are really gay clubs in Italy.

Generally, gay friends gather around their favorite coffee bar, wine bar, or at some local piazza–every clique has its hang-out. Cruising in Rome is not one of the easier propositions since everyone gives everyone else the once or twice over. It’s just hard to tell if they’re looking at you or at your clothes. There are gay events, dances, lectures, social gatherings. Some of them are by invitation, many are open to whomever wants to attend. The best way to find out is to consult one of the monthly magazines that cover the social scene in Rome. Try glancing through Time Out Rome (English and Italian), or Babilonia (Italian only), a national gay publication that also publishes an annual guide to the entire country in both Italian and English; or drop by Rome’s only gay bookstore, Babele on Via dei Banchi Vecchi just off Via del Pellegrino. The magazines and guides are generally easy to find at street kiosks.

roma5A quick listing of the more popular gay places; everyone knows The Hangar, Rome’s oldest gay bar. The best times to visit are Friday, Saturday, and Monday late evenings. American owned, it is probably the most popular (and one of the easier to find), with a primarily tourist clientele, though a lot of the Gen-X age Romans hang there too. A great address too: Number 69, Via in Selci, near the Colosseum. Nearby you’ll find L’Apeiron (5 Via dei Quattro Cantoni), a two level club big on music videos. For dancing, there are two major places: L’Alibi in the Testaccio district, at 44-57 Via di Monte Testaccio, near the Pyramide; and L’Angelo Azzuro, at 13 Via Merry del Val.

Except for the above-mentioned places, gay spots seem to open and close with such rapidity they would leave the Tasmanian Devil dizzy. Even a just acquired, up-to-date listing probably warrants a phone call to ensure that any given club is actually still there. Bars and clubs are also notoriously difficult to find. Most are hidden behind plain facades with little if any indication that you are in the right spot. They also tend to be in either out-of-the-way neighborhoods or somewhat seedy locales.

OUT & ABOUT IN THE CITY

A few notes about getting around Rome. First, you will probably arrive at Fiumicino Airport. Unless you’ve got an incredible amount of luggage, don’t take a cab into the city. It’s not a short drive and it will blow a huge hole in your budget. There’s a direct train line into the center of the city, you can take either a local or express, each no more than a few dollars. From Stazione Termini you can then take a cab, bus, or metro. Cabs, again, are not cheap, but depending on where you need to go, they may be your only reasonable option.

The bus system covers the entire city extremely well, but it can be incredibly slow, incredibly packed (especially close to rush hour), and very confusing. It is, however, only 1500 lire, less than a dollar. The metro, or subway, consists of two lines that cross the heart of Rome. To get to any of the major sightseeing spots, this is probably your best choice other than your own two feet. I’m a big fan of walking around Rome. It’s not laid out in “a grid” like many American cities, so it can be a bit bewildering, but you’ll discover some amazing little piazzas and sights as you wander.

A caveat about public transportation. It’s operated on the honor system. You buy tickets from machines and walk through open gateways or climb onto buses through doors that are not necessarily close to the driver. You are supposed to punch your ticket in little stamping machines located near these gates or doors. The ticket is time-stamped and is then good for 75 minutes. Within that time period, should someone official ask to see your ticket, you’re in good shape. You’ll see that a large number of locals don’t bother to buy or punch tickets at all and take a chance that nobody will ask to see their ticket. They’re probably right. But it’s a major fine if you’re caught without one that is stamped.

As far as I’m concerned, the one indispensable guide to wandering around Rome is The Blue Guide to Rome (Norton). This 400 page, regularly updated guide covers not only detailed instructions for getting to and from places, but detailed historical and cultural notes and tips. It also includes pretty decent maps that detail the core of Rome.


Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Quotes I Quite Like

Miscellany

“Count no day lost in which you waited your turn, took only your share and sought advantage over no one.”

– Robert Brault


I am hereby officially tendering my resignation as an adult.

I have decided I would like to accept the responsibilities of a 6-year-old again.

I want to go to McDonald’s and think that it’s a four-star restaurant.

I want to sail sticks across a fresh mud puddle and make ripples with rocks.

I want to think M&Ms are better than money because you can eat them.

I want to lie under a big oak tree and run a lemonade stand with my friends on a hot summer’s day.

I want to return to a time when life was simple – a time when all you knew were colors, multiplication tables, and nursery rhymes, but that didn’t bother you because you didn’t know what you didn’t know, and you didn’t care that you didn’t know things. All you cared about was being happy because you were blissfully unaware of all the things that should make you worried or upset.

I want to believe that the world is fair, that everyone is honest and good.

I want to believe that anything is possible.

I want to be oblivious to the complexities of life and be overly excited by the little things again.

I want things to be simple.

I don’t want my day to consist of computer crashes, mountains of paperwork, depressing news, worrying about how to survive more days in the month than there is money in the bank, doctor bills, gossip, illness, and loss of loved ones.

I want to believe in the power of smiles, hugs, a kind word, truth, justice, peace, dreams, the imagination, mankind, and making angels in the snow.

So, here’s my checkbook, my car-keys, my credit card bills and my 401K statements, oh, and my stock options for my 2 year award. I am officially resigning from adulthood and if you want to discuss this further, you’ll have to catch me first.


maherThe following, from humorist Bill Maher:

New Rules:

Stop giving me that pop-up ad for Classmates.com! There’s a reason you don’t talk to people for 25 years. Because you don’t particularly like them! Besides, I already know what the captain of the football team is doing these days: mowing my lawn.

Don’t eat anything that’s served to you out a window unless you’re a seagull. People are acting all shocked that a human finger was found in a bowl of Wendy’s chili. Hey, it cost less than a dollar. What did you expect it to contain? Trout? Luckily, it was only a finger! If it was a whole hand, Congress would have voted to keep it alive.
Stop saying that teenage boys who have sex with their hot, blonde teachers are permanently damaged. I have a better description for these kids: lucky bastards.

If you need to shave and you still collect baseball cards, you’re gay. If you’re a kid, the cards are keepsakes of your idols. If you’re a grown man, they’re pictures of men.

Ladies, leave your eyebrows alone. Here’s how much men care about your eyebrows: do you have two of them? Okay, we’re done.

There’s no such thing as flavored water. There’s a whole aisle of this crap at the supermarket, water, but without that watery taste. Sorry, but flavored water is called a soft drink. You want flavored water? Pour some scotch over ice and let it melt. That’s your flavored water.

Stop fucking with old people. Target is introducing a redesigned pill bottle that’s square, with a bigger label. And the top is now the bottom. And by the time grandpa figures out how to open it, his ass will be in the morgue. Congratulations, Target, you just solved the Social Security crisis.

The more complicated the Starbucks order, the bigger the asshole. If you walk into a Starbucks and order a “decaf grande, half-soy, half-low fat, iced vanilla, double-shot, gingerbread cappuccino, extra dry, light ice, with one Sweet-n’-Low and one NutraSweet,” ooh, you’re a huge asshole.

Just because your tattoo has Chinese characters in it doesn’t make you spiritual. It’s right above the crack of your ass. And it translates to “beef with broccoli.” The last time you did anything spiritual, you were praying to God you weren’t pregnant. You’re not spiritual. You’re just high.

Competitive eating isn’t a sport. It’s one of the seven deadly sins. ESPN recently televised the US Open of Competitive Eating, because watching those athletes at the poker table was just too damned exciting. What’s next, competitive farting? Oh wait. They’re already doing that. It’s called “The Howard Stern Show.”

I don’t need a bigger mega M&M. If I’m extra hungry for M&Ms, I’ll go nuts and eat two.

If you’re going to insist on making movies based on crappy, old television shows, then you have to give everyone in the Cineplex a remote so we can see what’s playing on the other screens. Let’s remember the reason something was a television show in the first place is the idea wasn’t good enough to be a movie.

No more gift registries. You know, it used to be just for weddings. Now it’s for babies and new homes and graduations from rehab. Picking up the stuff you want and having other people buy it for you isn’t gift giving, it’s the white people version of looting.

This one is long overdue: No more bathroom attendants. After I zip up, some guy is offering me a towel and a mint like I just had sex with George Michael. I can’t even tell if he’s supposed to be there, or just some freak with a fetish. I don’t want to be on your web cam, dude. I just want to wash my hands.

When I ask how old your toddler is, I don’t need to know in months. “27 Months.” “He’s two,” will do just fine. He’s not a cheese. And I didn’t care in the first place.


The following, completely non-PC rant, has been attributed to George Carlin, but he says he didn’t write it. So far no one seems to know who actually wrote it, may have just been the first guy to post it! To me it sounds very Bill Maher-ish, but who knows? (George Carlin offers this bit of wisdom: “Nothing you see on the Internet is mine unless it came from one of my albums, books, HBO shows, or appeared on my website.”)

Been sitting here with my ass in a wad, wanting to speak out about what’s going on in New Orleans. For the people of New Orleans… First I would like to say, Sorry for your loss.

Unlike an earthquake, we know when a hurricane is coming. With that said, Let’s go through a few hurricane rules:

#1. A mandatory evacuation means just that. Get the hell out. Don’t blame the Government after they tell you to go. If they hadn’t said anything, I can see the argument. They said get out. If you didn’t, it’s your fault, not theirs. Even if you don’t have a car, you can get out.

#2. If there is an emergency, stock up on water and non-perishables. If you didn’t do this, it’s not the government’s fault you’re starving.

#3. If you run out of food and water, find a store that has some. Remember, shoes, TVs, DVDs and CDs are not edible. Leave them alone.

#4. If the local store is too looted of food or water, leave your neighbor’s TV and stereo alone (See #3). They worked hard to get their stuff. Just because they were smart enough to leave during a mandatory evacuation, doesn’t give you the right to take their stuff; it’s theirs, not yours.

#5. If someone comes in to help you, don’t shoot at them and then complain no one is helping you. I’m not getting shot to help save some dumbass who didn’t leave when told to do so.

#6. If you are in your house that is completely under water, your belongings are probably too far gone for anyone to want them. If someone does want them, let them have them and hopefully they’ll die in the filth. Just leave! (It’s New Orleans, find a voodoo warrior and put a curse on them.)

#7. My tax money shouldn’t go to rebuild a city that is under sea level. Why build your house on quicksand a second time? My tax money should not pay to rebuild a 2 million dollar house, a sports stadium or a floating casino either. You want to live below sea-level, join the Navy.

#8. Regardless what the Poverty Pimps want you to believe, The U.S. Government didn’t create the Hurricane as a way to eradicate the black people of New Orleans. The U.S. Government didn’t cause global warming that caused the hurricane, either. We’ve been coming out of an ice age for over 10,000 years.

#9. This is the land of the free and the home of the brave, but you gotta work for what you want. The government isn’t responsible for giving you anything. You gotta work for what you want. McDonalds and Walmart are always hiring, get a damn job and stop spooning off the people who are actually working for a living.

President Kennedy said it best… “Ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country.”
Thank you for allowing me to rant.


abbey“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds. May your rivers flow without end, meandering through pastoral valleys tinkling with bells, past temples and castles and poets’ towers into a dark primeval forest where tigers belch and monkeys howl, through miasmal and mysterious swamps and down into a desert of red rock, blue mesas, domes and pinnacles and grottos of endless stone, and down again into a deep vast ancient unknown chasm where bars of sunlight blaze on profiled cliffs, where deer walk across the white sand beaches, where storms come and go as lightning clangs upon the high crags, where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you – beyond that next turning of the canyon walls.”

– Edward Abbey, Environmental Activist, 1928-1989


frost“The only advice I could give is – “Poof, you’re fifty.” So what have you done? Did you have fun? Did you do stuff that you really loved? Did you live a brave life? Were you not afraid? Because mostly I think it’s fear of “am I going to make a mistake?” that holds people back from living their lives. Well, you know what, make a mistake.”

– Geoffrey Frost, Senior Vice President/Chief Managing Officer, Motorola


reagan“Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we’ll ever see on this earth.”

– Ronald Reagan, “A Time for Choosing”, October 27, 1964

“This idea that government was beholden to the people, that it had no other source of power is still the newest, most unique idea in all the long history of man’s relation to man. This is the issue of this election: Whether we believe in our capacity for self-government or whether we abandon the American Revolution and confess that a little intellectual elite in a far-distant capital can plan our lives for us better than we can plan them ourselves.”

“You and I are told we must choose between a left or right, but I suggest there is no such thing as a left or right. There is only an up or down. Up to man’s age-old dream — the maximum of individual freedom consistent with order — or down to the ant heap of totalitarianism. Regardless of their sincerity, their humanitarian motives, those who would sacrifice freedom for security have embarked on this downward path. Plutarch warned, “The real destroyer of the liberties of the people is he who spreads among them bounties, donations and benefits.””

“The Founding Fathers knew a government can’t control the economy without controlling people. And they knew when a government sets out to do that, it must use force and coercion to achieve its purpose.”

– Ronald Reagan, excerpts from election speech, 1964


hepburn“The time to make up your mind about people is never.”

– Katherine Hepburn as Traci Samantha Lord, in The Philadelphia Story


eleanor older-2“Many people will walk in and out of your life,
But only true friends will leave footprints in your heart.
To handle yourself, use your head;
To handle others, use your heart.
Anger is only one letter short of danger.
If someone betrays you once, it is his fault;
If he betrays you twice, it is your fault
Great minds discuss ideas;
Average minds discuss events;
Small minds discuss people.
He who loses money, loses much;
He, who loses a friend, loses much more;
He, who loses faith, loses all.
Beautiful young people are accidents of nature,
But beautiful old people are works of art.
Learn from the mistakes of others.
You can’t live long enough to make them all yourself.
Friends, you and me….
You brought another friend….
And then there were 3.
We started our group….
Our circle of friends….
And like that circle….
There is no beginning or end..
Yesterday is history.
Tomorrow is mystery. Today is a gift.
That’s why it’s called the present.”

– Eleanor Roosevelt, diplomat, first-lady


phil_mcgraw“You wouldn’t worry so much about what people think of you if you knew how seldom they do.”

– Dr. Phil McGraw, talk show host


“The private acts of men, while they don’t affect the public moral or order, are exempt from the competence of the judges, and can be only judged by God.”

– Constitution of Argentina, 1853


mead“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful committed citizens can change the world; indeed it’s the only thing that ever has.”

“Instead of being presented with stereotypes by age, sex, color, class, or religion, children must have the opportunity to learn that within each range, some people are loathsome and some are delightful.”

– Margarent Mead (1901-1978), American Anthropologist


unamerkel“I’m like olives, you gotta learn to like me.”

– Jenny Sacks (Una Merkel) in Born to Dance, 1936


dozois“There’s no statement you can make by dying that’s worth the potential of what you might be able to do with the rest of your life.”

Gardner Dozois, Editor, Asimov’s Science Fiction Magazine


“We ain’t what we should be. We ain’t what we gonna be. But thank goodness we ain’t what we was.”


I Can’t Believe We Made It!

According to today’s regulators and bureaucrats, those of us who were kids in the 30’s, 40’s, 50’s, 60’s, 70’s or even the early 80’s, probably shouldn’t have survived.

Our baby cribs were covered with bright colored lead-based paint.

We had no childproof lids or locks on medicine bottles, doors, or cabinets, and when we rode our bikes, we had no helmets.

Not to mention the risks we took hitchhiking …

As children, we would ride in cars with no seat belts or air bags. Riding in the back of a pickup truck on a warm day was always a special treat.

We drank water from the garden hose and not from a bottle. Horrors! We ate cupcakes, bread and butter, and drank soda pop with sugar in it, but we were never overweight because we were always outside playing.

We shared one soft drink with four friends, from one bottle, and no one actually died from this.

We would spend hours building our go-carts out of scraps and then rode down the hill, only to find out we forgot the brakes. After running into the bushes a few times, we learned to solve the problem.

We would leave home in the morning and play all day, as long as we were back when the street lights came on. No one was able to reach us all day. No cell phones. Unthinkable!

We did not have Play stations, Nintendo 64, X-Boxes, no video games at all, no 99 channels on cable, video tape movies, surround sound, personal cell phones, personal computers, or Internet chat rooms.

We had friends! We went outside and found them.

We played dodge ball, and sometimes, the ball would really hurt.

We fell out of trees, got cut and broke bones and teeth, and there were no lawsuits from these accidents. They were accidents. No one was to blame but us. Remember accidents?

We had fights and punched each other and got black and blue and learned to get over it.

We made up games with sticks and tennis balls and, although we were told it would happen, we did not put out any eyes.

We rode bikes or walked to a friend’s home and knocked on the door, or rang the bell or just walked in and talked to them.

Little League had tryouts and not everyone made the team. Those who didn’t had to learn to deal with disappointment.

Some students weren’t as smart as others, so they failed a grade and were held back to repeat the same grade. Horrors!

Tests were not adjusted for any reason.

Our actions were our own. Consequences were expected.

The idea of parents bailing us out if we got in trouble in school or broke a law was unheard of. They actually sided with the school or the law. Imagine that!

This generation has produced some of the best risk-takers, problem solvers, and inventors, ever.

We had freedom, failure, success, and responsibility — and we learned how to deal with it. And you’re one of them! Congratulations.

Please pass this on to others who have had the luck to grow up as kids before lawyers and government regulated our lives for our own good !!!


“Good judgment comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgment.”


“Reasonable people do not seek to alter their surroundings.
Unreasonable people do.
All progress is made by unreasonable people.”


“Vini, Vidi, Visa” (I came, I saw, I did a little shopping)


burney“Why, really Sir, a play requires so much attention,– it is scarce possible to keep awake if one listens; – for, indeed, by the time it is evening, one has been so fatigued with dining, – or wine, – or the house, – or studying, – that it is – it is perfectly an impossibility.”

– Fanny Burney, Evelina, Letter XX, 1778


archerw“All government is government by consent of the people. It is very stupid of them to consent – but they do.”

– William Archer, The Green Goddess, 1920


Words, Writing, Communication, Art

“It might be a good idea if the various countries of the world would occasionally swap history books, just to see what other people are doing with the same set of facts.”

– Bill Vaughan, journalist (1915-1977)


yannmartel“If we, citizens, do not support our artists, then we sacrifice our imagination on the altar of crude reality and we end up believing in nothing and having worthless dreams.”

– Yann Martel, Life of Pi, 2001


ferguson“If English was good enough for Jesus Christ, it’s good enough for Texas.”

– Miriam Amanda “Ma” Ferguson, 1st woman governor of Texas (and 2nd woman governor in the U.S. by 15 days), in 1920s while seeking to ban the teaching of foreign languages in the public school system. [There is some debate as to whether it was her or someone else who actually said this, but it’s generally attributed to her.]


chuangtzu“The fish trap exists because of the fish. Once you’ve gotten the fish, you can forget the trap. The rabbit snare exists because of the rabbit. Once you’ve gotten the rabbit, you can forget the snare. Words exist because of meaning. Once you’ve gotten the meaning, you can forget the words. Where can I find a man who has forgotten words so I can talk with him?

– Chuang-tzu, the “second greatest teacher of the Tao”


“Never argue with a stupid person. First they will bring you down to their level. Then they will beat you with experience.”


“This ‘telephone’ has too many shortcomings to be seriously considered as a means of communication. The device is inherently of no value to us.”

– Western Union internal memo, 1876


Out with the long

“Short words are best”, said Winston Churchill, “and old words when short are best of all”

And, not for the first time, he was right: short words are best. Plain they may be, but that is their strength. They are clear, sharp and to the point. You can get your tongue round them. You can spell them. Eye, brain and mouth work as one to greet them as friends, not foes. For that is what they are. They do all that you want of them, and they do it well. On a good day, when all is right with the world, they are one more cause for cheer. On a bad day, when the head aches, you can get to grips with them, grasp their drift and take hold of what they mean. And thus they make you want to read on, not turn the page.

Yes, yes, you may say, that all sounds fine. But from time to time good prose needs a change of pace – a burst of speed, a touch of the brake, a slow swoop, a spring, a bound, a stop. Some might say a shaft of light and then a dim glow, some warp as well as weft, both fire and ice, a roll on the drum as much as a toot on the flute. Call it what you will. The point is that to get a range of step, stride and gait means you have to use some long words, some short and some, well, just run of the mill, those whose place is in the mid range. What’s more, though you may find you can write with just short words for a while, in the end don’t you have to give in and reach for one of those terms which, like it or not, is made up of bits, more bits and yet more bits, and that adds up to a word which is long?

Then there is the ban on new words, or at least a puff for the old. Why? Time has moved on. The tongues of yore need help if they are to serve the way we live now. And, come to that, are you sure that the Greeks and Gauls and scribes of Rome were as great as they are cracked up to be? Singe my white head, they could make long words as well as any Hun or Yank or French homme de lettres who plies his trade these days.

Well, yes, some of those old folks’ words were on the long side, but long one were by no means the rule. And though the tongue in which you read this stole words from here and there, and still does, at the start, if there was one, its words were short. Huh, you may say, those first “words” were no more than grunts. Yet soon they grew to be grunts with a gist, and time has shown that, add to the length of your words as you may, it is hard to beat a good grunt with a good gist.

That is why the short words, when old, are still the tops. Tough as boots or soft as silk, sharp as steel or blunt as toast, there are old, short words to fit each need. You want to make love, have a chat, ask the way, thank your stars, curse your luck or swear, scold and rail? Just pluck an old, short word at will. If you doubt that you will find the one you seek, look at what can be done with not much: “To be or not to be?” “And God said, Let there be light; and there was light,” “We are such stuff as dreams are made on,” “The year’s at the spring/And day’s at the morn…/The lark’s on the wing;/The snail’s on the thorn.”

It can be done, you see. If you but try, you can write well, and say what you want to say, with short words. And you may not need a lot of them: some words add just length you all the time have to guess, is no less fine if it is short than if it is long; on its own, its length is not good, not bad, just the sum of its two halves. So it is with words. The worth of each lies in the ends to which it is put. Tie your string well, or ill, and its length counts for naught. Make your point well with short words, and you will have no use for long ones. Make it not so well, and you will be glad that you kept them crisp. So, by God, will those who have to read you.

– The Economist, October 9, 2004


“It’s a fact: if someone can’t write well, he/she is probably going to come across as unintelligent, and I’m not going to say that such a perception isn’t warranted. The ability to write well indicates lucidity of thought and cohesiveness of reason better than just about anything else, while poorly written text betrays puerile, fragmented, and/or uncommitted thought processes, particularly without the benefit of other credentials that prove the writer’s intelligence.

Someone who wants to be heard will want to be understood, and that requires structured thought and communication. There’s no way around it. A few mistakes are forgivable, but come to me with excessive slang or insufficient punctuation or egregiously spelled words or inefficiently communicated ideas, and I’ll treat you like the fourth-rate intellectual slob that you are. Then, I’ll go eat my lunch and do it some more.

Period.”

– Milo D. Cooper, Artist/Game Designer, August 2000 – [edited to remove personal comments]


ray“He that uses many words for explaining any subject, doth, like the cuttlefish, hide himself for the most part in his own ink.”

– John Ray, naturalist (1627-1705)


Working Out, Nutrition, Dieting, etc.

“There’s something irredeemably rude about phoning in your dietary preferences to a social acquaintance, as if you’re about to embark on a trans-Atlantic flight rather than a convivial evening.”

– Alexandra Jacobs, “The Finicky Gourmet”, New York Times Magazine, May 1, 2005


garrow“If athletes, sportspeople and body builders are to attain optimum performance, adequate nutrition is essential. On this basis, many health food shops offer special preparations formulated for such people. I believe that none of these preparations have any beneficial effect on sportspeople that could not be achieved at less than half (often much less than half) the cost by taking ordinary foods such as whole-meal bread or semi-skimmed milk. If the manufacturers or retailers of these foods can show that I am wrong I will issue a public apology, and will pay £500 to the charity of their choice. However, if I am not wrong they should stop making and selling these preparations, since they are in effect defrauding the public.”

– John Garrow MD PhD FRCP, Rank Professor of Human Nutrition, University of London, 1990


Belief, Faith & Superstition

“I believe in God the way I believe in quarks. People whose business it is to know about quantum physics or religion tell me they have good reason to believe that quarks and God exist. And they tell me that if I wanted to devote my life to learning what they’ve learned, I’d find quarks and God just like they did.”

– Mary Doria Russell, author, The Sparrow


“You will go to a very special level of hell. One reserved for child molesters and people who talk in the theater.”

– Ron Glass, actor, in Firefly, Our Mrs. Reynolds


clancy“Understanding why people believe weird things is important for anyone who wishes to know more about people – that is, humans in general.”

– Susan Clancy, psychologist, in Abducted: How People Come to Believe They Were Kidnapped by Aliens


The university professor challenged his students with this question.

“Did God create everything that exists?”

A student bravely replied “yes, he did!”

“God created everything? The professor asked.

“Yes sir”, the student replied.

The professor answered, “If God created everything, then God created evil since evil exists, and according to the principal that our works define who we are then God is evil”.

The student became quiet before such an answer. The professor was quite pleased with himself and boasted to the students that he had proven once more that Christian, Jewish & Muslim faiths are a myth.

Another student raised his hand and said, “Can I ask you a question, professor?”

“Of course”, replied the professor.

The student stood up and asked, “Professor, does cold exist?”

“What kind of question is this? Of course it exists. Have you never been cold?”

The students snickered at the young man’s question.

The young man replied, “In fact sir, cold does not exist. According to the laws of physics, what we consider cold is in reality the absence of heat. Every body or object is susceptible to study when it has or transmits energy, and heat is what makes a body or matter have or transmit energy. Absolute zero is the total absence of heat; all matter becomes inert and incapable of reaction at that temperature. Cold does not exist. We have created this word to describe how we feel if we have no heat.

The student continued. “Professor, does darkness exist?”

The professor responded, “Of course it does”.

The student replied, “Once again you are wrong sir, darkness does not exist either. Darkness is in reality the absence of light. Light we can study, but not darkness. In fact we can use a prism to break white light into many colors and study the various wavelengths of each color. You can not measure darkness. A simple ray of light can break into a world of darkness and illuminate it.

“How can you know how dark a certain space is? You measure the amount of light present. Isn’t this correct ? Darkness is a term used by man to describe what happens when there is no light present.”

Finally the young man asked the professor. “Sir, does evil exist?”

Now uncertain, the professor responded, “Of course, as I have already said. We see it every day. It is in the daily example of man’s inhumanity to man. It is in the multitude of crime and violence everywhere in the world. These manifestations are nothing else but evil.”

To this the student replied, “Evil does not exist sir, or at least it does not exist unto itself. Evil is simply the absence of God. It is just like darkness and cold, a word that man has created to describe the absence of God. God did not create evil. Evil is not like faith or love that exist just as does light and heat. Evil is the result of what happens when man does not have God’s love present in his heart. It’s like the cold that comes when there is no heat or the darkness that comes when there is no light.”

The professor sat down.

(Note: though I liked this little story, comparing scientifically measurable facts with beliefs is stretching things a bit…)


rilke“If it frightens and torments you to think of childhood and of the simplicity and silence that accompanies it, because you can no longer believe in God, who appears in it everywhere, then ask yourself whether you have really lost God. Isn’t it much truer to say that you have never yet possessed him? For when could that have been? Do you think that a child can hold him, him whom grown men bear only with great effort and whose weight crushes the old? Do you suppose that someone who really has him could lose him like a little stone? Or don’t you think that someone who once had him could only be lost by him? – But if you realize that he did not exist in your childhood, and did not exist previously, if you suspect that Christ was deluded by his yearning and Muhammad deceived by his pride – and if you are terrified to feel that even now he does not exist, even at this moment when we are talking about him – what justifies you then, if he never existed, in missing him like someone who has passed away and in searching for him as though he were lost?”

– Rainer Maria Rilke, Letters to a Young Poet (Letter Six, Rome), December 23, 1903


laing“Many people used to believe that angels moved the stars. It now appears that they do not. As a result of this and like revelations, many people do not now believe in angels.

Many people used to believe that the “seat” of the soul was somewhere in the brain. Since brains began to be opened up frequently, no one has seen “the soul”. As a result of this and like revelations, many people do not now believe in the soul.

Who could suppose that angels move the stars, or be so superstitious as to suppose that because one cannot see one’s soul at the end of a microscope it does not exist?”

– R.D. Laing, The Politics of Experience, 1967


wright“I am not going to question your opinions. I am not going to meddle with your belief. I am not going to dictate to you mine. All that I say is, examine, inquire. Look into the nature of things. Search out the grounds of your opinions, the for and the against. Know why you believe, understand what you believe, and possess a reason for the faith that is in you.”

– Frances Wright, Divisions of Knowledge, 1828


heinlein“The most ridiculous concept ever perpetrated by H. Sapiens is that the Lord God of Creation, Shaper and Ruler of the Universes, wants the saccharine adoration of his creations, that he can be persuaded by their prayers, and becomes petulant if he does not receive this flattery. Yet this ridiculous notion, without one real shred of evidence to bolster it, has gone on to found one of the oldest, largest and least productive industries in history.”

“Most gods have the manners and morals of a spoiled child.”

– Robert A. Heinlein, science fiction author


gibson“Christianity is an insult to the wisdom of the nineteenth century. To place before its progress and development a leader, ruler, king, savior, god, whose knowledge was less than a modern five-year-old school girl, is an outrage upon humanity.”

– Ella E. Gibson, The Godly Women of the Bible, 1870s


“We would be 1,500 years ahead if it hadn’t been for the church dragging science back by its coattails and burning our best minds at the stake.”

– Catherine Fahringer


“Several thousand years ago, a small tribe of ignorant near-savages wrote various collections of myths, wild tales, lies, and gibberish. Over the centuries, these stories were embroidered, garbled, mutilated, and torn into small pieces that were then repeatedly shuffled. Finally, this material was badly translated into several languages successively. The resultant text, creationists feel, is the best guide to this complex and technical subject.”

– Tom Weller, Science Made Stupid, 1984


Conflict, Violence

“The danger to political dissent is acute where the Government attempts to act under so vague a concept as the power to protect “domestic security.” Given the difficulty of defining the domestic security interest, the danger of abuse in acting to protect that interest becomes apparent.

As I read it — and this is my fear — we are saying that the President, on his motion, could declare — name your favorite poison — draft dodgers, Black Muslims, the Ku Klux Klan, or civil rights activists to be a clear and present danger to the structure or existence of the Government.

The price of lawful public dissent must not be a dread of subjection to an unchecked surveillance power. Nor must the fear of unauthorized official eavesdropping deter vigorous citizen dissent and discussion of Government action in private conversation. For private dissent, no less than open public discourse, is essential to our free society.”

– Justice Lewis F. Powell, Jr., U.S. Supreme Court, 1972, United States v. United State District Court (click here to link to whole decision)


mill“War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself.”

– John Stuart Mill, The Contest in America, Fraser’s Magazine, February 1862


haggard“I do not believe in violence; it is the last resource of fools.”

– H. Rider Haggard, Dawn, 1884


asimov“Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent.”

– Salvor Hardin (Isaac Asimov), Foundation, 1951


piper“Force, he believed, was the last resort of incompetence; he had said so frequently enough since this operation had begun. Of course, he was absolutely right, though not in the way he meant. Only the incompetent wait until the last extremity to use force, and by then, it is usually too late to use anything, even prayer.”

– H. Beam Piper, A Slave is a Slave, 1962


Huntington_s“In class and ideological conflicts, the key question was: “Which side are you on?” and people could and did choose sides and change sides. In conflicts between civilizations, the question is: “What are you?” That is a given that cannot be changed. And as we know, from Bosnia to the Caucasus to Sudan, the wrong answer to that question can mean a bullet in the head. Even more than ethnicity; religion discriminates sharply and exclusively among people. A person can be half-French and half-Arab and, simultaneously, even a citizen of two countries. It is more difficult to be half-Catholic and half-Muslim.”

– Samuel P. Huntington, “The Clash of Civilizations”, 1993


eisenhower“Humility must always be the portion of any man who receives acclaim earned in blood of his followers and sacrifices of his friends. Conceivably a commander may have been professionally superior. He may have given everything of his heart and mind to meet the spiritual and physical needs of his comrades. He may have written a chapter that will glow forever in the pages of military history. Still, even such a man—if he existed—would sadly face the fact that his honors cannot hide in his memories the crosses marking the resting places of the dead. They cannot soothe the anguish of the widow or the orphan whose husband or father will not return. The only attitude in which a commander may with satisfaction receive the tributes of his friends is in the humble acknowledgment that no matter how unworthy he may be, his position is the symbol of great human forces that have labored arduously and successfully for a righteous cause.”

– Dwight D. Eisenhower, June 12, 1945


king“The ultimate test of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and moments of convenience, but where he stands in moments of challenge and moments of controversy.”

– Martin Luther King, Jr., January 27, 1965


Sex, Sexuality, etc.

leelafry“Look Fry, you’re a man and I’m a woman. We’re just too different.”

– Leela, Futurama


On Wednesday, March 1, 2006, in Annapolis, at a hearing on the proposed Constitutional Amendment to prohibit gay marriage, Jamie Raskin, professor of law at American University, testified as requested.

At the end of his testimony, Republican Senator Nancy Jacobs said: “Mr. Raskin, my Bible says marriage is only between a man and a woman. What do you have to say about that?”

Raskin replied: “Senator, when you took your oath of office, you placed your hand on the Bible and swore to uphold the Constitution. You did not place your hand on the Constitution and swear to uphold the Bible.”

The room erupted with applause!


“Among the varieties of American innocence that were lost on September 11, perhaps the most intriguing was the mass discovery of what it feels like to be hated. ‘How can they hate us,’ people asked, ‘just because we’re Americans, when they don’t even know us?’ Well, I thought, welcome to my world. People hate homosexuals all the time, across great distances, from places where they feel threatened by us even though most of us would never contemplate living there.”

– Michael Schwartz, The Gay & Lesbian Review, January-February 2002 issue.


“For me, the top/bottom dichotomy is both too rigid and too exclusive. It implies you’re one or the other, when maybe the real answer is ‘neither’ or ‘never’ or ‘sometimes’ or ‘not tonight.'”


wohlfeiler“There’s been a hue and a cry that many of us have an inalienable right to intimacy, which for some of us means exchanging semen. No one would dispute that sex without latex can be much, much more intimate. But how intimate do you need to be, with whom, and when? Does it mean the same to you to not wear condoms with your lover as with the guy you met last Thursday whose name and HIV status you didn’t know, or the guy you’ll trick with tonight? Or with five, ten, or twenty more guys this year? Isn’t taking care of each other also part of intimacy? Gay liberation was about the freedom to have sex, to break rules, to have no limits. And we can have most of that. We don’t have to be prudish — we just need to be prudent.”

– Dan Wohlfeiler, AIDS activist, GayHealth.com, February 16, 2003


maherValentine’s Day, that great state holiday By Bill Maher (2/14/04)

NEW RULE:

“You can’t claim you’re the party of smaller government, and then clamor to make laws about love. If there’s one area I don’t want the US government to add to its list of screw-ups, it’s love. On the occasion of this Valentine’s Day, let’s stop and ask ourselves: What business is it of the state how consenting adults choose to pair off, share expenses, and eventually stop having sex with each other? And why does the Bush administration want a constitutional amendment about weddings? Hey, birthdays are important, too — why not include them in the great document? Let’s make a law that gay people can have birthdays, straight people get more cake — you know, to send the right message to kids. Republicans are always saying we should privatize things, like schools, prison, Social Security — OK, so how about we privatize privacy? If the government forbids gay men from tying the knot, what’s their alternative? They can’t all marry Liza Minnelli. Republicans used to be the party that opposed social engineering, but now they push programs to outlaw marriage for some people, and encourage it for others. If you’re straight, there’s a billion-five in the budget to encourage and promote marriage — including seed money to pay an old Jewish woman to call up people at random and say “So why aren’t you married, Mr. Big Shot?” But when it comes to homosexuals, Republicans sing “I Love You Just the Way You Oughta Be.” They oppose gay marriage because it threatens or mocks – or does something – to the “sanctity of marriage,” as if anything you can do drunk out of your mind in front of an Elvis impersonator in Las Vegas could be considered sacred. Half the people who pledge eternal love are doing it because one of them is either knocked-up, rich or desperate, but in George Bush’s mind, marriage is only a beautiful lifetime bond of love and sharing — kind of like what his Dad has with the Saudis. But at least the right wing aren’t hypocrites on this issue — they really believe that homosexuality, because it says so in the Bible, is an “abomination” and a “dysfunction” that’s “curable”: they believe that if a gay man just devotes his life to Jesus, he’ll stop being gay — because the theory worked out so well with the Catholic priests.  But the greater shame in this story goes to the Democrats, because they don’t believe homosexuality is an “abomination,” and therefore their refusal to endorse gay marriage is a hypocrisy. The right are true believers, but the Democrats are merely pretending that they believe gays are not entitled to the same state-sanctioned misery as the rest of us. The Democrats’ position doesn’t come from the Bible, it’s ripped right from the latest poll, which says that most Americans are against gay marriage.

Well, you know what: Sometimes “most Americans” are wrong. Where’s the Democrat who will stand up and go beyond the half measures of “civil union” and “hate the sin, love the sinner,” and say loud and clear: ‘There IS no sin, and homosexuality is NOT an abomination’ — although that Boy George musical Rosie O’Donnell put on comes close. The only thing abominable about being gay is the amount of time you have to put in at the gym. But that aside, the law in this country should reflect that some people are just born 100 percent outrageously, fabulously, undeniably Fire-Island gay, and that they don’t need re-programming. They need a man with a slow hand.”

No fat wrap

Vegetable wraps

Buenos Aires Herald
On Sunday supplement
Food and Wine

It had to come up sooner or later, someone was going to ask about “fat free vegan” options for something at home. Something that wasn’t just an undressed salad or crispy rice cake. Thankfully, at least this time, they didn’t throw in “gluten free” or I might have just given it all up as a bad day. Combine that with just having worked my way through a couple of books on the subject and I was ready to tackle something new in the kitchen.

I don’t know that I need to get into the pros and cons of either a vegan lifestyle or an ostensibly fat free one. There’s plenty of source material out there that comes down on either side of the questions, and I think I can safely leave it in your hands to make your own decisions about what works for you. Want to go the other direction and head to a carb-free, meat heavy diet, you’re good to go from my perspective – whatever works for you.

I would say that I find the combo a bit restrictive. It’s not that one can’t come up with some great food to eat, and hopefully today’s recipe will give you a good example. It’s more that there’s so many ingredients out there that a diet like this leaves out – it’s one that I could never commit to without some overriding reason. But, as a change up for meals once or twice a week, it’s certainly a good balancer to whatever else I might be ingesting.

So what does a fat free vegan diet leave out? Beyond the obvious “no meat or dairy products”, including eggs, and, for most vegans, honey as well, the fat free restriction eschews chocolate, nuts, avocados, and all plant-based oils and fats – which, by the way, includes leaving out a large number of soy products unless they’re low fat versions. It’s not truly fat free, many vegetables and grains contain some level of fat naturally, but it’s a “no added fat” and no members of the plant kingdom that contain excessive amounts. Most folk who adhere to the diet are doing it for cardiovascular reasons, and so often, there’s a no added salt restriction.

So what that means is getting creative with vegetable purees, juices, herbs and spices for flavorings, generally some form of legume for those creamy mouthfeel sorts of experiences. And, that’s what we’re going to do today – a healthy, vegetable based wrap that makes for a satisfying lunch or lighter dinner. And, away we go.

First, the wrap – a whole wheat tortilla. You’d be surprised how easy these are to make – a simple 1:1 weight ratio between finely ground whole wheat flour and water – we get six decent sized tortillas out of:

175 grams whole wheat flour
175 ml/grams water
½ teaspoon salt (optional)
½ teaspoon smoked paprika

Mix well with a whisk to break up any lumps and let sit for about ten minutes to hydrate the flour. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Divide the dough in six equal portions (or, 4 or 8, depending on how big you want them) and roll out to about a 20 cm circle. Lay them one at a time in the hot skillet – no oil needed. Cook until it’s lightly browned on the underside and then flip it over and cook the second side to the same. It should still be quite flexible. Repeat with each remaining tortilla.

For the filling:

¼ of a small red cabbage
¼ of a small white cabbage
2 green onions
1 medium carrot
4 asparagus
4-5 stems of cilantro
1 can white beans

1 can chickpeas
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon cumin
1 small chili
2 cloves garlic
1 small carrot
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted (optional, they add some fat)
water as needed

Slice the cabbage into thin shreds. Chop the green onion, asparagus and parsley. Grate the carrot. Open the can of beans. Toss them all together in a bowl.

Open the can of chickpeas – essentially we’re making a no fat added hummus. Pour the can into the blender and add the other ingredients. Blend at high speed, only add water as needed to get a smooth puree. Mix the puree with the vegetables and pile into the tortilla wraps. Roll up (if you want to make it pretty, stick a toothpick in it to hold it all together). Eat. Feel free, by the way, to mix up the vegetables with others, to use a different herb or a mix of them, and adjust the spiciness of the dressing with more or less of the chili and garlic.

A series of recipes and articles that I started writing for the Buenos Aires Herald Sunday supplement, Food & Wine section, at the beginning of 2012. My original proposal to them was to take local favorite dishes and classics and lighten them up for modern day sensibilities. We’re not talking spa or diet recipes, but at the very least, making them healthier in content, particularly salt, fat and portion size. As time went by, that morphed into a recipe column that, while emphasizing food that is relatively “good for you”, wasn’t necessarily focused on local cuisine. At the beginning of 2013 I decided to stop writing for them over some administrative issues, but it was fun while it lasted.

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The E Files #3

donotsend
Yes indeed, time for another round of facepalming fun. You know, I used to write and perform stand-up comedy. I couldn’t have written some of this stuff and have anyone buy it.

—————

“We are interested in dinner at your restaurant one of the nights while we’re here. According to your website you’re not open on Sundays, Mondays or Tuesdays. Please put us on your waitlist for one of those three nights next week.”

“I’m not sure I understand what you’re asking. We’re only open Wednesday through Saturday, so we don’t have a waitlist for Sunday, Monday or Tuesday, as we’re closed.”

“Yes, we know, it said you weren’t open those nights on your website, but are you refusing to put us on your waitlist?”

“Umm… okay, you know what, I’d be happy to put you on the waitlist for one of those nights.”

“Just let us know which night to come.”

“Again, we’re closed those nights. I’m happy to put you on a waitlist, but we’re not going to be open.”

“Whatever.”


“Our niece and her husband ate with you last year and raved about the experience. We’d like to attend, but given what we think about their tastes, it remains to be seen whether we’ll enjoy anything you have to offer.”

Seriously, do I even want these people here? Is this just a generally grumpy or misanthropic person, or was that a sort of throwing down of the kitchen mitt in challenge? … We took a chance and accepted, they came, they enjoyed.


“We have no food allergies or dietary restrictions. My girlfriend isn’t overly fond of mussels, but it’s no big deal as long as they’re not a whole course.”

[We have a seafood sauce on a pasta that evening that includes calamari, shrimp, prawns, cockles, clams, and yes, mussels. She eats all of it but the three or four mussels, which she pushes to the side.]

“It would have been nice if you’d have bothered to read our email in the first place. We made it clear that my girlfriend is deathly allergic to mussels, and yet you served her a plate of them. You could have sent her to the hospital and should have offered an alternative.”

“My apologies for the misunderstanding, I was under the impression that she just didn’t like them very much and since they were just a small part of a mixed shellfish sauce, and you’d said it wasn’t a big deal, I didn’t think it would be a problem. She did eat the entire dish but the few mussels on the plate, no? This is why we ask about allergies, but not dislikes, as we couldn’t possibly plan menus that fit everyone’s preferences each evening.”

“What’s the difference? Allergy or dislike, we made it clear that she couldn’t eat them, no matter what.”

Umm, no you didn’t. These are the kind of people who cause problems for people who have actual allergies, when restaurant teams get tired of bowing to every whim of a customer. All it leads to is either restaurants that end up saying basically ‘no substitutions, no special requests’, something that’s becoming more and more common, or, and far more dangerous, chefs who simply decide to ignore requests that think are bogus.


This whole thing about people wanting to come when we’re not open mystifies me. Not that it happens that they want to come on a day or week when we’re not open, but the level of insistence on some people’s part (as above in the first email exchange). With a schedule where we’re not open all the time (what restaurant that isn’t something like a diner is?), and that it may not coincide with theirs, but…

“We’d like a reservation for two for tomorrow.”

“Unfortunately for your timing, as noted on our schedule, we’re on vacation this week and next. Perhaps some time in the future on another visit?”

“We probably won’t be back, we want to come tomorrow. Make it happen.”

“Sorry, but we’re away, I’d be happy to recommend some alternatives.”

“If you had a fucking clue about hospitality, you’d make this work instead of giving me shit. We’re not interested anymore.”

…didn’t bother to respond. I’m sure a nasty TripAdvisor or Yelp review is in the offing.


Have to give points for honesty to this one – a newspaper travel writer contacts me for an interview about Casa S…. this is a paraphrased and much shortened conversation:

“Let’s do the interview on Monday, around noon if that works.”

“Sure, that’s great.”

“And you’ll be preparing a five course meal for myself and two friends who I’ve invited to join me, free of course.”

“No. Sorry, first, we’re not open for lunch, and second, that’s not part of the deal for an interview. You can make a reservation for dinner one night when we’re open if you want to try our food and experience a dinner here.”

“Fine, for the following night. Again, free for all three of us.”

“No, sorry, first off we don’t offer free meals for reviews, and second, we certainly wouldn’t also offer them to friends you happen to invite. Don’t you have a budget from your newspaper to pay for meals?”

“Of course I do, and I’ll need a receipt for the full amount for three of us, but I’m keeping the money – if you want a review, you give me the meals for free.”

“Sorry, but we that’s not an option. Do you still want to do the interview? If not, I fully understand.”

“Yes, I’ll still come for the interview.

Didn’t show up, never responded to followup email.


Nothing like folk who are confident in their own worth!

“We’d like to reserve for two for Saturday evening. We’re both highly intelligent, perceptive, and witty people who will bring a level of conversation to the table that it’s unlikely your other guests are capable of. The format of your dinners, the whole concept, and the ambiance will be a quaint choice for us over the sorts of high-quality restaurants that we normally frequent. However, we do prefer that sort of food, so we’d like your permission to bring in food from a top restaurant for ourselves rather than pay you for your efforts. We’ll of course pay you a corkage charge for the wine we’ll bring and tip the waiter. We await your reply with much anticipation.”

“No, sorry, we don’t have spaces available for you.”

“Your website says you still have spaces available that night.”

“Yes, we do, I’ll leave it to your highly intelligent and perceptive abilities to re-read my first response.”


“The three of us are highly allergic to mayo and there can’t be any in any of our food.”

“Which part of the mayo is it that you’re allergic to, in case we have to avoid one of the ingredients – the egg yolk, the mustard, the lemon juice, or the oil?”

“We’re not allergic to any of those things, just to mayo. Why would you bring those things up?”

“Because that’s what mayo is made out of… other than salt and pepper, there’s nothing else in it.”

“No, mayo is something else than what you’re thinking of, maybe you don’t have a word for it in Spanish.”

“It’s not, and we do, but I’m guessing that one or more of you simply doesn’t like the texture of mayo and you’re not actually allergic to it?”

“Well yeah, it’s disgusting, but that’s like an allergy.”

No, no it’s not at all like an allergy…. “Okay, got it.”

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Jamie Taylor

Passport Magazine
Issue 42 – October 2006
businessprofile – Jamie Taylor
Serendipity and hard work help when starting a business in a foreign country
Jamie TalorPacking up and moving to another city to start a new job is daunting enough for most folk. Some people go a little further. Jamie Taylor packed up and moved to a different hemisphere, 7,000 miles away. He left behind family, friends, and steady work for the gleam of an idea he’d put together with his new long distance boyfriend, someone whom he’d met on vacation a year earlier, and only kept in contact with via internet and phone since. He left behind a happy existence in a stable part of the world for complete unknowns in a country that was known for military coups, economic and political instability, and repeated military conflicts with his home country. [Flux Bar closed during the 2020 pandemic, and as of June 2021, Jamie returned to the UK.]

Some folks might think it was a mid-life crisis, but Jamie doesn’t see it that way. He may have been fulfilled in his longtime job in London as an HIV counselor, but he knew it wasn’t satisfying his long term goals and dreams of having his own business, less stress, and living with a man that he loved. When he met Ilia, a young Russian man who had been living in Buenos Aires for ten years, new things started to seem possible. Within a year he’d wrapped up all the loose ends he could think of, and was on a plane, winging his way to Argentina’s capital, trusting in a combination of fate and determination.

Looking back at things now, a couple of years later, he might have approached everything a bit differently. “I might have come down and spent some more time vacationing and getting to know the city, its ins and outs, and making a circle of friends. I might have talked to people I knew back in London about what it would be like to open my own business. I might even have spent some time checking out the bar scene in Buenos Aires before opening my own. Maybe, most importantly, I might have asked someone just how come no one had opened a bar like the one I imagined.”

Instead, somehow forefront in his mind was the idea that “Anyone can open and run a bar, it’s easy and not very stressful, and after all it’s just mixing drinks.” With those thoughts in mind, he pushed right into the fray. Noting that all the gay bars and clubs in the city seemed to be located out in the touristy or residential areas, he looked for space in the heart of the downtown financial district. Looking back, he remembers, “I thought I’d be able to attract the local and expatriate after-work crowd. None of the other bars and clubs were even open until at least ten at night, and lots of them not until midnight. I figured that gays and lesbians who wanted a drink and a place to hang out would love an early evening venue.”

He soon found a large space with plenty of room for a bar, a lounge area, and even a small dance floor. It was on a busy commercial street. It was also situated down a narrow concrete staircase, in the basement beneath a copy shop. It was close to all the things he’d thought about: the business district, many major tourist hotels and attractions, and it was easy to get to via subway or bus line. The building management didn’t seem to care what he wanted to do with the space, so he rented it, and jumped right into the renovation. On August 4th, 2005, he flung the doors open to the public, and Flux (Marcelo T. de Alvear, 980, www.fluxbar.com.ar) made its debut.

In most cities, opening a bar would prove to be a massive task – between licenses and insurance, various permits from building departments, health departments, and a legion of other bureaucratic entities. Buenos Aires, however, has limited legislation and regulation when it comes to opening a small business, and Taylor recalls, “The only inspectors I ran into were from the building department, who wanted to make sure I had my own public entrance, private garbage collection, and bathrooms. For the most part they stood there, pretty much with their hands out.” With Argentina’s depressed economy at the time, he was able to get up and running for what most business owners, especially bar owners, would think a pittance, 125,000 pesos, or just over $40,000, plus savings to live on until the bar reaches steady profitability, something it’s only just now beginning to achieve.

Gay bars have a notoriously hard time opening in many parts of the world, what with local politics, religious leaders, and often underworld shakedowns. Argentina, a strong Catholic country with a history of governmental, police, and criminal corruption, might have had those same problems, but to his surprise, Taylor found that the “gay” part of the bar was the least of his issues. Argentina’s constitution, written in 1853, has long (at least by letter of the law) guaranteed equality under the law for gays and lesbians. Civil unions have been legal for years [in Buenos Aires]. Gay marriage is a current proposal in the [city] legislature, expected to pass with relatively little opposition some time in 2007.

Flux BarFrom the beginning, it’s been a roller-coaster operation. Being new, it immediately attracted attention. Being open at a time of day when no other gay bar was, turned out to be a blessing and a curse. Taylor now says, “There were people who wanted a place to hang out with friends and drink after work, but there weren’t many of them. You know, Buenos Aires’ social culture is such that people often zip home from work and take a nap, like a late siesta, so that they can get up later and go to dinner at ten or eleven., followed by a few hours of clubbing, then a few hours of sleep, and back to work in the morning.” Jamie soon found himself catering more to a small crowd of tourists than locals. That made it hard to develop a regular clientele – the backbone of any bar business.

“I’ll try anything and everything,” he says. “I have art shows with the work of some local artists, both Argentines and ex-pats. We tried Tuesday evening gay tango lessons, Thursday language practice groups, opened up the lounge for meetings of the gay expat community, and now we’re trying late evening DJs on the weekends.” The scheduling is often erratic, as those hosting events change their plans at the last minute – a common occurrence in Buenos Aires.

As part of his plan to attract more customers, he offers a 2 for 1 early happy hour, something that isn’t common in this city. He’s also had to create some interesting specialty drinks, but first, as he points out, “Ilia and I had to learn how to bartend, period. Neither of us had any real previous experience running a bar, and mixing a G&T or pouring a beer for friends back in London wasn’t really enough. He found himself studying bar manuals and cocktail books, and he keeps a couple behind the bar to refer to when he gets stumped by a request. When he found that local liquor distributors only represented a few national and imported brands, he had to spend time searching out sources of different liquors and mixers, often purchased retail at small specialty shops or markets.

What is Jamie’s advice for other gay and lesbian entrepreneurs heading to Buenos Aires? “Have much more money than you think you’ll need! I figured out what my estimated costs would be and then added fifty percent. I wish I’d made it double, or even more. I’m still living on savings and putting everything we earn back into the bar.” He recommends making friends in the community you plan to serve, and finding out what it is that interests them. Get their input on your ideas, listen to their concerns, find out about their lifestyles, and figure out a way to implement your ideas in concert rather than at odds with those things. Otherwise, you might find yourself scrambling to make corrections that could have been easily addressed up-front. Also, find out everything you can about the business you plan to open, especially if it’s a change of career.

While his lack of training and experience in the bar world gave him fresh eyes and few preconceived notions about how to run a bar, it also left him with no practical idea how to go about it. “It was sheer luck that the economy here was ready for any kind of business investment, and that there are really no regulations, or you can easily ignore a lot of them; not that I’d recommend that. A lot of days I wish I’d found out these things before moving across the world.”

Would that have stopped him? “No, I needed a major change in my life. I wanted to be with Ilia, and I wanted an adventure.”

There’s no doubt he’s accomplished all that, in spades.


Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Numbers – “In The Desert”

Having taken a pause at the base of Mt. Sinai in order to lay out the rules for the priestly class, God’s ready to get things moving. He’s got his mobile home in the form of the Tabernacle, everyone’s clear on what they’re supposed to do in order to be in his good graces, and, the Israelites themselves have been itching to go for some time now. And so begins Numbers, the journey from Mt. Sinai back to the Promised Land. In some ways, it’s a bit of a travelogue, dividing the time between leaving Mt. Sinai, being in the desert, and arriving at the border of Canaan, on the plains of Moab. But in many ways, it’s more of a story of the older generation, still often clinging to the traditions that they were brought up with and not quite ready to embrace this new world order, versus the up and coming generation who are growing up with the new rules and customs dictated at Sinai.

  1. If you’re headed out on a long march across potentially hostile territory, you want an army. God tells Moses and Aaron to gather together a designated representative from each of the tribes, except the Levites, the priestly class, who maintain the Tabernacle. Then each representative is to return to their tribe, take a census, and, draft every able bodied male aged 20 and up, to arm themselves and prepare for the long march. In short order, they have an army of 603,550 armed men, divided into twelve tribal battalions.
  2. God’s being a micro-manager with the troops. He directs Moses and Aaron of where to place each of the twelve tribes’ camps around the Tabernacle and the Levites, to protect them. It’s like a big clock-face. Each battalion flies its own banner and marches together.
  3. Aaron and his two remaining sons are in charge of the Tabernacle. God, claiming the devotion of the first born males, instructs that the 13th tribe, the Levites (Levi having been the first born), are to be dedicated to protecting the Tabernacle (and later, the Temple). On counting the male descendants of Levi, over the age of one month, there are 22,000 dedicated directly to the service of God. On the march, they will immediately surround the Tabernacle, and anyone unauthorized who approaches is to be put to death. God’s priestly assassins.
  4. God instructs Aaron and Moses to take yet another census, this time of all those in the Levite tribe, of service age, that is, 30-50 years old. They will be responsible for lifting and carrying the entire Tabernacle, Altar, and Ark setup as the Israelites march. To make it ready for the march across the desert, everything in it is to be covered with blue cloths and dolphin skin. Apparently there were a lot of dolphins available, and skinning them was a thing. No wonder the dolphins are like, “so long and thanks for all the fish”.
  5. God says, before we get going, put anyone with an STD outside the camp. And, anyone who has wronged someone else must pay restitution before we go. And, side note, if a guy thinks his wife has been cheating on him, but doesn’t have proof, bring her to a priest, along with an offering of grain. The priest will have the woman hold the grain, and then will make her drink some holy water along while he utters an invocation. If she doesn’t get sick, she wasn’t cheating. If she does, she was. The man, of course, gets a pass, regardless.
  6. God sets out the rules for someone who declares themself a Nazirite. What’s interesting here is that no explanation is given of what a Nazirite is or why someone might choose to declare themself one. History say it’s someone who declared a voluntary period of penance. It involved setting oneself apart, dedicated to God’s service, abstaining from grapes (in fresh, raisin, or wine form), not shaving their head, not being near a dead body. Several sacrifices are required, and on completion of the vow, shaving their head completely. Apparently, in the entire Bible (we shall see about this), only one person is ever named who declared themself a Nazirite, and that was Samson – the whole not cutting his hair thing that I remember from Sunday school.
  7. The Levites and the Tabernacle are prepped and ready to go. But wait. There’s more. Sacrifices! We need sacrifices! Each day, for twelve days, one of the tribal chieftains arrives at the Tabernacle with gold, silver, flour, oil, incense, oxen, rams, goats, and lambs.
  8. God instructs Moses to select from among the Levites all the fit, unblemished men, between the ages of 25-50, to serve at his pleasure. After age 50, they’re to leave. To prepare them for his service, they’re to be shaved from head to toe, washed, and dressed nicely. This sounds suspiciously like a casting call for gay porn films from William Higgins.
  9. Was beginning to think this march was never going to actually get moving. But, after a last speech about making sure to observe Pesach sacrifices, it’s time to go. God’s still micro-managing. When it’s time to camp, he appears as a cloud resting over the Tabernacle. When he’s ready to move, he lifts up from the Tabernacle, clear skies, time go march!
  10. Nope, sorry, spoke too soon. God’s still not ready for the Israelites to move out. First they need to make two silver horns, to be given to Aaron’s two sons, and they will be the trumpeters who use the horns to announce marching orders, outlined in detail afterwards.
  11. The Israelites are supremely tired of manna. It’s all they’ve been eating since they left Egypt. Egypt, with its abundance of fish, melons, cucumbers, leeks, onions, and garlic. They whine. God gets angry. Moses pleads on their behalf, and his own. God says, okay, have some meat. He sends flocks of quail, so many that they are waist high on the ground. As the Israelites cook and eat the meat, God, still pissy, gives them all a foodborne illness, and the biggest whiners all die. The Israelites bury their dead, stop whining, and head out.
  12. Moses takes an additional wife, and horror of horrors, she’s a “Cushite”, i.e., a black woman from Southern Egypt. Miriam, Aaron’s wife, convinces Aaron to denounce Moses for this interracial relationship. God gets pissed (he’s pissed a lot) and calls them together. He tells them that with most prophets, he appears to them as a vision, but speaks to Moses directly, and Moses has his favor, and who Moses chooses as a wife is up to him. God plagues Miriam with leprosy and demands she be exiled for a week as punishment. The Israelites march on.
  13. Suddenly, and with no account of the time spent enroute, the Israelites are approaching Canaan, the promised land. God instructs Moses to send out scouts, a leader from each of the thirteen tribes, to see what the land and people ahead are like. One wonders why God didn’t just tell Moses what the land and people ahead are like…. However, the scouts spend forty days getting the lay of the land, returning to report that produce is abundant, the land fertile, but the people are numerous and strong. Oh, and by the way, there are Nephilim guarding the borders. You know, giants, the half and half offspring of humans and fallen angels.
  14. Alarmed by the prospect of what lies ahead, some Israelites begin to rail against God, fostering the sentiment that they had been better off in Egypt. God’s ready to rage quit. All these guys do is complain. So he appears to Moses and announces it’s time for a reset. If the descendants of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob don’t like, follow, and worship him, he’ll wipe them out and start over. Moses points out that all that would do is show that God wasn’t a being of honor, after all, he promised Abraham to make it work. God, petulant as always, grudgingly agrees to not kill them all, instead to make them wander in the desert for forty years, despite Canaan being right in front of them. And because he’s still a peevish gamemaster, he wipes out all the more vocal dissidents with a plague.
  15. God has just imposed a 40-year penalty on the Israelites. What’s next? He presents his list of demands for worship and sacrifices to be performed at the end of the forty years, when they get to Canaan, i.e., Israel. A bit obsessed with this being worshiped thing, no? Further, he demands that if anyone in the community doesn’t fulfill their obligations and keep to his rules, that the community be held responsible, subject to divine punishment. Social enforcement! Someone breaks the rules and Moses has the community leaders stone him death.
  16. The grandsons of Levi and Reuben are not having it. 40 years in the desert? Moses killing their friends for Sabbath infractions? They gather together a group of 250 and demand Moses’ resignation as leader. He tells them to show up next day with incense to meet God. “We’ll see just who has God’s favor and who doesn’t,” is the gist of his response. Next day, God appears to them. He tells Moses and Aaron to get out of the way so he can kill all the Israelites, he’s had enough. He does that a lot. Moses and Aaron beg him not to kill everyone. He relents, tells Moses to clear everyone else away from the 250 rebels. Then he causes the ground to open up and swallow them live, straight to the underworld. I really don’t remember learning some of these stories as a kid. Did they rewrite the Torah over the last decades?
  17. You’d think, after God appeared to the 250 rebels, and caused the earth to swallow them up, that the Israelites might take a lesson. But no, the entire community rises up against Moses and Aaron, blaming them for the deaths. God sends a plague to wipe them all out. Aaron is in the middle of converting the rebels’ incense burners into copper plating for the Altar. Moses tells him to quickly take some of the sacred incense and stand in the middle of the community, to check the plague. Over 14k people die before it stops. God tells Moses to have each tribal chieftain bring their staff and leave them in the Tabernacle for the night. In the morning, Aaron’s staff has sprouted leaves, flowers, and almonds, designating his as… better? The Israelite response? “We’re lost, we’re all going to die!”
  18. It’s stick and carrot time with God! He instructs Aaron that he and his immediate family are in charge of the Tabernacle, Ark, and Altar. The entire Levite clan is responsible for those as well, but only his immediate family can have direct contact with the Altar. If other Levites or anyone else is permitted into the presence of the Altar, they, and Aaron and family, will be killed by God. On the bright side, Aaron and family are entitled to tithes of the first and best produce and livestock, as long as they treat it with respect. And, the first born son of any Levite family will be dedicated to the service of the Tabernacle.
  19. Whoops, a day late here! It’s red cow time! Find an unblemished red cow, the head priest slaughters it, sprinkles its blood around the encampment seven times, then burns the carcass over specific woods and herbs. The ashes are mixed with water. This water of “lustration” is used when a person becomes impure because of contact with a dead body. After a seven day waiting period, a priest sprinkled the impure person with the water of lustration. Done and dusted. Literally.
  20. The Israelites are rebelling, yet again. This time it’s “there’s no water in the desert, we had water back in Egypt, better you had left us there than brought us here to die of thirst”. Moses and Aaron, exasperated. God, more so. Gives Moses a staff to strike a stone. Moses strikes the stone, water comes forth. Yay God! But, God’s pissy. Again. He’s tired of Moses and Aaron interceding on behalf of the Israelites. So, he announces that they were clearly not the leaders they were meant to be. Two attempts to enter lands enroute to Canaan. Two attempts denied to the Israelites. God has Moses take Aaron to a mountain top, strip him, give his priestly vestments to his son Eleazar. The manner of his death is not made clear – God? Moses? Eleazar? Someone else? Enquiring minds want to know. Aaron is mourned for a month.
  21. A series of engagements against different tribes and fiefdoms that the Israelites encounter on their journey. After one, they begin complaining about the food and the long march, yet again. God sends poisonous serpents to kill them and many die. You’d think by now that the Israelites would get that complaining just pisses God off, but no. Instead, they get Moses to intercede once again. God tells him to setup a giant copper snake statue, and anytime someone gets bit by a poisonous snake, they can look at it and be cured. Now this is a new one for me. It sounds a bit… idol-ish, though I guess there’s no worshipping specified. Still, I’d think that someone dying of poison would likely pray to said copper serpent statue, rather than just treat it as a conduit from God.
  22. Balak, prince of Moab, sees the Israelites approaching, so numerous that “they cover the earth”. He panics, despite their assurances they just want to pass through in peace, and sends messengers to Balaam, prince of neighboring Pethor, to ally with him in battle. Balaam meditates on the request, God appears to him and says not to go, so he refuses. Balak persists, sending more messengers, offering riches. Balaam meditates again, God says, okay, but do what I tell you. Balaam mounts his donkey. Halfway there, the donkey sees God’s avatar. The donkey tries to run away, Balaam beats it. Three times this is repeated. Then God speaks to him through the donkey, asking why he’s beating him. The avatar appears. Balaam begs forgiveness, but notes that he had no idea the avatar was there. They continue to Moab.
  23. Balaam arrives and tells Balak what God’s messenger told him to, to build seven altars and make sacrifices of rams and oxen. They do so, Balaam says he has to go check in with the messenger, and shortly returns to recite a poem that blesses the enemy Moabites. Balak is incensed, demands to know why, Balaam says “just repeating God’s message”. Balak says, come to another hilltop and you’ll see what the Moabites are like. Rinse and repeat. Balak even more frustrated. They head to a third vantage point as this chapter ends.
  24. Now at the third vantage point, Balaam recites a couple of poems, both blessing the enemy and also the Israelites. Balak is still incensed, after all, he offered to pay for Balaam’s assistance in crushing the enemy. He tells Balaam to go back home, without payment! Balaam reminds him that from the start he was going to speak the words that God’s messenger gave him, regardless of potential rewards. He gives a last prophecy that one day, in the future, the Israelites will win the battle with a champion who arises, but not now. He heads home.
  25. After quite a few experiences with God’s response, Moses has gotten the lay of the land. While the Israelites are camped outside Moab, many of the men are tempted into sexual exploits with Moabite prostitutes, and duped into worship of Ba’al. Without even being prompted, Moses orders the priests to round up the men involved and execute them by impaling them on spikes in the center of the camp. Even when one of the chieftain’s sons is involved, Phinehas, a priest, kills both he and the woman he’s with. For that, God grants Phinehas and his descendants special recognition for all time. Moses, too, gets kudos for his initiative.
  26. Moses orders another census of the various clans’ able bodied, ready to serve men. The count comes back at 601,730. It should be noted that this is down from the 603,550 they started at on this march. Mostly due to, you know, the plagues God sent when he was pissed. God tells Moses to allot the newly conquered, or soon to be conquered (it’s not clear here, we haven’t seen a battle, but they’re talking like it’s over), in proportion to each clans’ percentage of the total able bodied men.
  27. In studying the Talmud through Daf Yomi, back on Shabbat page 97, we read about the daughters of Zelophehad’s petition for inheritance rights, since their father had died without leaving a male heir. Moses takes the case to God, who sides with the daughters. This isn’t the whole story, because there’s a whole two steps forward, one step back scenario, but that’s not covered in this chapter of Numbers. More on it on my Daf Yomi page.
  28. This chapter is God’s meal plan. It’s an enumeration of how many lambs, rams, goats, oxen, and types of bread, are required for each day, week, month, year, and holiday sacrifice, and what time of day they are to be offered up, along with a demand for punctuality.
  29. God’s going to town on micromanaging, as he does. He details out how many oxen, rams, lambs, and goats he expects on the sacrificial menu for each day of the week from Rosh Hashana to Yom Kippur. This almost feels like the origin point of the all you can eat buffet.
  30. A man’s word is sacrosanct. If he makes a vow or promise, he is obligated to keep it. It’s not so clear cut for a woman. For a young woman still in her father’s home, her word is only binding if her father doesn’t object. For a married woman, only if her husband doesn’t object. In both cases, however, if the father or husband doesn’t object at the time he finds out, and only later objects, her word is not only binding on her, but on him. So Moses tells the people, on God’s orders.
  31. Remember back a few chapters when the Midianite prostitutes waylaid our stalwart soldiers into worshipping Ba’al? Well, apparently killing the prostitutes and the Israelite men involved wasn’t enough for God. He orders Moses to destroy the Midianites, completely. The battle is engaged, and the Israelites slaughter every male soldier and plunder the community of its riches, livestock, women, and non-combatant men. Not enough! says Moses. Kill all the men, and all the non-virgin women! Then take a week outside the camp to purify yourselves. Then give half the spoils to the priests. The rest – riches, livestock, and virgin women – gets divided up among the tribes based on their share of men who fought in the battle. God’s not messing around with this “no worshipping other gods” thing.
  32. A couple of the tribes specialize in cattle ranching, and they see that the area outside of Canaan is better for grazing lands. They go to Moses and ask if they can be granted those lands rather than crossing the Jordan River and getting lands there. Moses responds, look, your forefathers tried to abandon us on this march and God made us wander the desert for 40 years until they died. Now you’re going to do it again? He’s pissed. No, no, they reply. We’ll provide troops to help take Canaan, but after, we want to return here. Moses consults with God. They agree to the terms. Sometimes you gotta negotiate for what you want.
  33. This chapter is a point to point reprise of the entire march from they day the Israelites left Egypt until they arrived at the Promised Land. It notes each place along the 40 year journey where they set-up an encampment. It ends with God telling them via Moses that their next step is to eliminate the current inhabitants and culture extant there, or he’ll be angry and eliminate the Israelites themselves. In the carrot and stick world, God seems very predisposed to constantly threaten the stick.
  34. This chapter is simply a geographical survey delineation of the boundaries of Israel, laid out by God to Moses. And a reminder that it’s only split between some of the clans, because a couple of them were granted ranchlands outside Israel.
  35. God continues with his land management and urban planning, instructing Moses to have 48 cities in Israel set aside for the priest class, the Levites. And further, to designate six cities, three inside the frontiers and three outside, as refuge cities. A refuge city is somewhere that someone accused of a capital crime can go and be safe from vengeance until after they’ve had a proper trial. No reference is (yet) made to how this safety from a “blood-avenger” is to be enforced.
  36. I figured the story of Zelophehad’s daughters (page 27) would be continued at some point, and here, on the last page of the book, it comes to a head. Clan leaders are up in arms over God’s decision to grant women, can you believe it, land rights. Not acceptable! What if those women marry outside of their clan, or outside of, dare we even suggest it, the Israelite tribes? The properties would then become property of “others”! Moses and God consult and a decree is issued, women can inherit property, but cannot marry outside their own clan!

Previous Book, Leviticus

Next Book, Deuteronomy

Return to 929 Project Main Page

A Taste of Hawaii

Q San Francisco
May 2000
Pages 54-55

A Taste of Hawaii

HibiscusPurpleClipArtThere are many things about Hawaii that captures our imagination including: beaches, volcanoes, palm trees and ocean waves, but until recently food was just an afterthought.

Only a decade or so ago, most major restaurants in Hawaii served what chefs thought the tourists would want to eat. Not wanting to offend the sensibilities of the islands’ major source of income, typical “mainland” fare was the order of the day. The thought that the average New York, Iowa or San Francisco bumpkin would want to nibble on local chow was simply not considered.

Luckily for everyone, a few intrepid kitchen maestros decided enough was enough. It was time to share the amazing local produce, seafood, and spices with the inbound masses. Hawaii is fortunate to have the influences of several major world cuisines to draw from. Recipes, techniques, and nuances from Korean, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Spanish and Portuguese cuisines add their flavor to the Polynesian and uniquely Hawaiian ingredients and classic dishes.

Hundreds of different edible fish, many available nowhere else in the world, now show up on dining tables throughout the islands. Some are even finding their way to the restaurant kitchens of major cities throughout the rest of the country. Fruits, vegetables and seaweeds of varieties that some cooks only read about are readily available for serving, garnishing and saucing of plates.

Names like Roy Yamaguchi, Alan Wong, Sam Choy, and Jean-Marie Josselin are popping up on food networks next to the likes of Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. In fact, while he may not be the pinnacle chef of Hawaiian food, Roy Yamaguchi is certainly its pinnacle ambassador, with more than a dozen outposts of his famed restaurant, Roy’s, around the world.

Internet sites devoted to Hawaiian cuisines are easily accessible for any home cook’s browsing pleasure and a quick search of the web turned up a half-dozen books on Hawaiian cuisine published in the last year.

Like much of American regional cooking, modern Hawaiian is a synthesis of the cuisines that come from its immigrant populace. James Michener, the author of the historical novel Hawaii, notes in the introduction to a Hawaiian cookbook that it is near impossible to attend a Hawaiian dinner and not have dishes from at least three different cultures.

Though by no means definitive, it would probably be fairly safe to say that modern Hawaiian cooking tends to be on the sweet side. It is not at all unusual to have sauces that are some form of sweet and sour, or based on sweetened coconut milk, or an Asian style soy, vinegar and sugar marinade. Fruit is often used in dishes. Unfamiliar (at least to us mainland types) produce, like purple Molokai sweet potatoes and poha berries sit side by side with fish like kumu, moano, moi, and wahoo.

With no claim to authenticity on my part, and full license on yours to play with your food, I offer a recipe, in tribute at least, to the new Hawaiian chefs. Influenced, of course, by my own cooking background…

Grilled Shutome with Molokai Hash
Serves 4

4 6-ounce shutome (Pacific swordfish) steaks
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
salt & white pepper
1/4 cups raw macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped
4 molokai (purple sweet potatoes), peeled and cut in 1/4″ dice
4 cloves of garlic, minced
2 green onions, sliced thinly
1 fresh medium-hot pepper, sliced in thin rings
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons corn or canola oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper the swordfish steaks (you can substitute any good steak fish, like tuna or shark), and coat both sides with hoisin sauce. Marinate for two hours.

Heat the oils together over medium heat and add garlic, green onions, pepper rings, and ginger and cook, stirring, until they start to turn golden brown. Add the macadamias and sweet potato dice (you can substitute regular sweet potatoes), turn the heat down low and cook, stirring regularly, until the potatoes are cooked through. Add the soy sauce and sugar and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat.

Grill the swordfish steaks on both sides until cooked through – preferably over an open grill. Kiawe wood (a Hawaiian wood) would be ideal, mesquite is a good substitute. A stove-top grill is the way most of us city-dwellers have to go. Serve with the hash.

Hawaiian Wines

Hawaii has two active wineries. Given the range of climates over the various islands and altitudes, grape growing is not all that difficult. Nonetheless, what is more important to the wine industry in Hawaii is an emphasis on local fruit wines. For those of us who’ve bounced around the country and sampled various fruit wines, we know these can range from insipid to quite good, but can almost always be counted on to be interesting. World-class is not the aim here – but fun drinking is.

In the wine business, Tedeschi Vineyards, located on Maui, is perhaps the more famed of the two. Often joked about amongst wine-folk, the winery’s specialty – Maui Blanc – is legendary as THE wine made from fresh pineapple juice. In business since 1974, Tedeschi produces a range of eight different wines, from grapes to passion fruit to pineapple. A visit to the winery, in upcountry Maui, is a must for the adventurous wine lover. In fact, 180,000 visitors make the trek annually.

Volcano Winery, on the “Big Island”, is nestled between two active volcanoes – Kilauea and Mauna Loa. Claiming distinction as America’s southernmost winery, they produce nearly a dozen different wines. Producing wine since 1986, Volcano, too, is worth the trip. Volcano’s claim to fame are their Symphony wines and their honey wines. The former are made from the Symphony grape – a hybrid between Grenache gris and Muscat of Alexandria. The latter are fermented entirely from local honey – unlike heavy, cloying European honey beverages like mead, these are light, fresh and delicately sweet.

Volcano Winery was able to ship some samples for my review. Symphony Dry is made from the hybrid grape Symphony and was a medium bodied, very aromatic wine and dry wine that reminded me of canned apricots and lychees. It worked well with the swordfish, though probably would be a better match with a less spicy sauce. Passion Chablis is a blend of an unidentified white grape and passion fruit wines, and tasted of, well, passion fruit. Being slightly off-dry it worked beautifully with the spicy sauce on the swordfish. With dessert, preferably something with banana or coconut, the Macadamia Nut Honey Wine was delightfully light, refreshing and tasting of honey and macadamia flowers.

Both wineries have well designed websites that are worth a visit, respectively at www.mauiwine.com and www.volcanowinery.com


Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés

Time Out
Buenos Aires for Visitors
August 2006
Page 51

The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés
Dan Perlman gets under the skins of Argentina’s signature grapes.

TORRONTÉS

What is it?

Torrontés is a white grape that is nearly unique to Argentina. A member of the Muscat family, it shares much of the aromatic punch of all grapes of the lineage.

What does it taste like?

Being a member of the Muscat family, wines from this grape come across as flowery and aromatic. With surprisingly racy acidity, however, this wine is drier, crisper, and brighter than most Muscats, with wonderful spicy apricot flavours and wildflower aromas.

Racy, eh? What do the wine buffs say about it?

Not much. Torrontés is so fresh on the scene that very little has been written or said about it by any of the top critics, other than an occasional tasting note about an individual wine. Torrontés, therefore, is the perfect grape for anyone who wants to wax poetically about wine and sound original at the same time.

Thanks for the tip. So where did Torrontes come from and where’s it grown now?

It’s Torront-és; no self-respecting wine buff would drop the accent. Originally one of the grapes of Madeira, the vineyards there were wiped out during one of the island’s historic volcanic eruptions. The vineyards could have been replanted, but the only source of new vines would have been Argentina, where it had already been transplanted, but it was too far away, and the Torrontés of Madeira was lost to all time. The only significant plantings of this grape are now in Argentina.

Lucky them. So what should I drink it with?

Torrontés makes a great match with virtually any fish or shellfish, and it’s also wonderful with lighter meats like chicken, turkey, and veal. The brightness and acidity make it a perfect foil to cut through cream sauces, or to match up against lightly spicy and/or fruity sauces.

Not to wash down a donor kebab, then. Best bottles?

Among the finest, those of Susana Balbo’s Crios line and the Don David vineyards. Etchart, too, makes both wonderful dry “Privado”, and sweet “Tardio” versions.

Any overrated bottles worth ranting about?

It’s pretty hard to claim anything’s overrated when the most expensive versions of these wines will still give you change back from US$20.

Point taken. One to take home?

Most of the good bottlings of Torrontés are exported as well as being available here, but the two worth sticking in the cellar are the Don David, and the Etchart Tardio dessert wine, both of which are harder to find abroad.

MALBEC

I’ve heard of this one. Tell me more.

Malbec is a medium-weight red grape that has developed a distinctive style over the more than a century that it’s been grown in Argentina.

What fruits and spices can I casually allude to in order to win friends and influence people?

In fruit, definitely something in the plum family, and it can be variable within that – yellow, red, or black plums. Strong notes of violets, especially in the heavier versions of the wine, and generally a touch of warm spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace.

Mace. I’m going to use mace. What do the critics say?

The critics love Malbec – it’s soft, easy to drink, and works well with food. There are only a few that a critic would put up in the upper echelons of collectable wines, but even in its name, it’s easily marketable as a very different, and appealing alternative to the ubiquitous Merlot.

Well of course, I’m not drinking f***cking Merlot. So where does Malbec hail from?

Don’t even mention the word ‘hail’ to wine growers, it stresses them out. Malbec is native to France, where it is the predominant grape in the southern region of Cahors, and is also a minor component in the classic Bordeaux blend. In Argentina it has taken on a softer, more approachable character that is notably different from the French version. But then, it’s had nearly 130 years to evolve here.

So even the grapes are more approachable in Latin America than in France. What should I drink Malbec with?

There’s no question that a medium to full bodied Malbec makes an incredible match with a thick, juicy steak. With soft tannins and lively acidity it just balances perfectly against a rich piece of red meat. On the other hand, there are many lighter styled, and especially the unoaked Malbecs that pair beautifully with poultry and even richer fish, like tuna, salmon, shark, and swordfish.

I’ll bear that in mind for the next time I order shark. Best bottles?

There are so many to choose from, but, to name one in each price level, try Dolium for inexpensive, Ricardo Santos for mid-range, and Yacachuyo (from renowned flying winemaker Michel Rolland) for the pricey end of the spectrum.

I’ll take one of each. Overrated bottles?

Also from Michel Rolland, the Clos de la Siete is not all it’s cracked up to be; and although we like some of the new “cult” wines, like Bodegas Noemia and A Lisa, we don’t think they’re worth the price.

One to stash in the suitcase or drink surreptitiously in the airport departure lounge?

That’s a toughy, because most of the better Malbecs are already exported. However, one that’s quite difficult to find is the original wine from the Yacachuyo region, San Pedro de Yacachuyo.

Best organised wine tastings?

Visitors to Buenos Aires can take part in the grape debate themselves as a number of organisations now offer informal wine tastings in English. We recommend Buenos Vinos (www.buenos-vinos.com) and Terroir (4778-3443, www.terroir.com.ar) which both offer tailor-made, private wine tastings at hotels and residences. Try also the excellent, weekly group tastings held by Buenos Vinos at three separate city locations, each Thursday at 6pm (see website for details).


In mid-2006, I started writing for Time Out Buenos Aires. With changes in their way of conducting business, I decided to part company with them after my last article and set of reviews in mid-2009.

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