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Bite-sized bliss

Thursday, January 8, 20090

Time Out
Buenos Aires for Visitors
Summer/Autumn 2009
Page 46

vineria

Bite-sized bliss
Brush up your skills in the fine art of grazing

Whether you want to call it grazing, small plate food, dim sum, meze, tapas or a chef’s tasting menu, what we’re talking about is gettin gthe chance to sample a lot of small bites of different, interesting food at one sitting. It’s a different way of eating from the traditional three-course dinner, and it tantalizes your palate in a different manner – and makes choosing a dish less of an all-or-nothing situation. It’s also, with the exception of buffet-style eating, fairly new for Buenos Aires.

While many Argentinian restaurants offer what’s called a tabla, it’s often little more than a platter of cold-cuts, cheese and olives. One exception is Breoghan in San Telmo, where you can choose from an array of tablas that offer up exquisite delicacies from Patagonia – fish, game, cheese, vegetables and fruits, in any combination your heart desires – or go for it all with the grand Quimey, a little bite of everything on the menu.

On the tapas side, there’s really only one choice, and thankfully, it’s a good one. Tancat (Paraguay 645, 4312 5442) in the Microcentro offers up a large array of tasty grilled and fried dishes and specializes in seafood and vegetables. While you can grab a table with friends and hang out and order a bit of this and a bit of that, the best thing to do here is to seat yourself at the long bar and start pointing.

When it comes to a chef’s tasting menu, there are three standout places, all of them offering up creatives twists on Argentinian fare and bringing in dishes and flavors from other parts of the world. In the cozy, inviting setting of Thymus you can din on seared duck breast, melt-on-your-tongue lamb’s tongue, or gorgeous roast quail. Or, get yourself into the funky and creative fare at De Olivas i Lustres (Gorriti 3972, Palermo Viejo, 4867 3388), where you’ll find your tastebuds tantalized by plate after plate of little one-bite hors d’oeuvres like ceviche sandwiches, passionfruit alphabet ‘soup’, or the strange sounding but delicious melted cheese with poppyseed caramel. If you really want to put your palate through its paces, you’ll be pleased to know that BA is now home to one of the disciples of Ferran Adrià of Spain’s El Bulli: At La Vinería de Gaulterio Bolivar in San Telmo, you can sample your way through 11 plates of ever-changing, creative cocina de vanguardia, each dish expertly paired with a local wine.

For those who want to step outside traditional or modern Argentinian cuisine, it’s worht nothing that there are two spots that offer up Chinese dim sum (not the classic cart service, but menus that list dozens of options for small plates that you can spread over your table and sample). They are Shi Yuan (Tagle 2531, 4804 0607) in Recoleta, which is also one of the better Chinese restaurants in town, and a few blocks away, Cinco Corderos (Avenida Las Heras 2920, 4806 9466). BA is also home to a very large Armenian community, as well as substantial Syrian and Lebanese ones, and two spots where you can sample lots of such specialties are Sarkis, where you shouldn’t miss the hummus or tabouleh salad, and Cheff Iusef (Malabia 1378, 4773 0450), with its spectacular kebbe de levanie, Both are in Palermo.

In mid-2006, I started writing for Time Out Buenos Aires. With changes in their way of conducting business, I decided to part company with them after my last article and set of reviews in mid-2009.

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Magazine articles, Time Out Buenos Aires

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Shevi’it – Seventh

Tuesday, September 20, 2022

This tractate focuses on the Shmita, the seventh year sabbatical in the agricultural world in ancient times. Each seven years, fields were to be left fallow, at least in commercial terms – no plowing, planting, tending, or harvesting, other than whatever was needed to support one’s own family with food – nothing to be sold. There are other strictures around the shmita, including the forgiveness of loans and taxes. Interestingly, though the Torah spells out that this is a mandatory forgiveness, the rabbis, much later, decreed that this was only meant to put a hold on payments during the year, and set-up an entire system for restoring the debt and payments structure when the year was over. I guess their consituency wasn’t overly happy about losing all future payments on loans.

Shevi’it – “Seventh” – Taking a Sabbatical from Life

  • Chapter 1 – In what seems to be a common approach in Talmudic tractates, this one launches, not with the informative or positive, i.e., what a shmita is, how to observe it, but with the exceptions, the negative. Almost the entire first chapter is taken up by a discussion of until what point prior to the start of the sabbatical year you can get away with continuing to tend to your commercial fig orchard. The general upshot is that if your orchard is still capable of producing a fig cake of “60 Italian maneh” (a maneh was roughly half a kilogram, so a 30 kilogram/66 lb fig cake), you can continue to do all the usual orchard maintenance and even harvesting throughout the year preceding the shmita, “as long as the orchard continues to produce fruit”. Once production drops below the point where you can harvest for that fig cake, you switch to only tending to sufficient trees to supply your family with figs.
  • Chapter 2 – If I’m following this correctly, in the year before the Sabbatical, you can time your planting in order to have a certain amount of crops for yourself. But only certain plants – like rice, millet, sesame, Egyptian beans (favas), melons, and gourds. The cereal crops must have taken root and started to grow before the New Year, the others must have already formed the pod, fruit, or vegetable before the New Year. Then you can harvest and tithe them during the Sabbatical year to support your family, though you are limited to basic farming practices like watering and weeding, no tilling of soil or training of vines or grafting of shoots. Any which haven’t formed their pod, fruit, or vegetable prior to the New Year must be left for the animals.
  • Chapter 3 – One of the goals of the sabbatical year is to allow the soil to recuperate. Fertilization is a big part of that, and as a way of getting around the proscription on tending to the fields, the system the rabbis designed is allowing you to create dung-heaps out of manure and other fertilizer at certain intervals around the fields, before the New Year, and then they will naturally, during rain and such, fertilize the fields. Further, you aren’t prohibited from grazing your flocks on whatever happens to grow, nor to let them just happen to fertilize various parts of your fields as the defecate. You can move them around from place to place in the fields over the course of the year.
  • Chapter 4 – There are different rules for different types of figs and onions, but these seem of little import. Of interest to me, this shmita year has an impact on other professions. Not just incidentally because of lack of produce, but, for example, potters are limited in the number of wine and olive oil jugs they are allowed to produce and sell to any one family – fifteen wine jugs and five olive oil jars. No more. Except when they do. Then, maybe, it’s permitted.
  • Chapter 5
  • Chapter 6
  • Chapter 7
  • Chapter 8
  • Chapter 9
  • Chapter 10

Go back to Kil’ayim – Mixed Species

Continue forward to Terumot – “Donations”

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