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Of Lions & Lambs

Sunday, March 8, 19980

19980308
I must assume that I was inspired by the old adage for March, “In like a lion, out like a lamb”. Not on the original menu, but I’ve added the sources of the quotes where I could find them.

March 8, 1998
Of Lions & Lambs

Ain’t we gonna have no supper?”

“Sure we are, If you gather up some dead willow sticks. I got three cans of beans in my bindle. You get a fire ready. I’ll give you a match when you get the sticks together. Then we’ll heat the beans and have supper.”
– Of Mice and Men, John Steinbeck

Baked Beans
Drappier “Val des Demoiselles” Rosé Brut

It was a wicked waste of food to see great big snails crawling about unmolested and uneaten.”…

One can hardly waste one’s food merely by the act of seeing snails. Literally construed, however, the sentence certainly does mean that anybody whose eye should chance to fall upon a snail in the garden is in that act suddenly guilty of a sensational act of economic extravagance.
– Rev. Canon Horsely, President of the Conchological Society, April 1906; the followup comment I couldn’t find online.

Brandied Snails
1993 Ronchi di Cialla “Ciallabianco”

It was now the middle of June, and the weather fine; and Mrs. Elton was growing impatient to name the day, and settle with Mr. Weston as to pigeon-pies and cold lamb, when a lame carriage-horse threw every thing into sad uncertainty.
– Emma, Jane Austen

Pigeon Pie
1994 Sanford “Barrel Select” Pinot Noir

I followed the direction of his eye through the door which stood open, and found it fixed wistfully on the savory breast of lamb, roasting in dripping richness before the fire. I now called to mind that, in the eagerness of my recondite investigation, I was keeping the poor man from his dinner.
– The Sketch Book of Geoffrey Crayon, Washington Irving

Spoon Lamb
1983 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Cheese changes from county to county. Cheese can even change, like wine, from valley to valley. It is exactly because it is very old that it is always various and surprising; and it is exactly because humanity (with one dreadful voice) demands cheese, that cheese is always different. I am altogether in favour of such differences and the preservation of them.
– couldn’t find the citation online

English Cheeses
1979 Château Peyrabon

We have to put him in our museums and such places, just as we have to put tiny little chips of grey stone that look as if you could pick them up in the street, or homely-looking brown beetles at which no self-respecting child could look twice…

They ask us to search and prod our memories for the small things that so easily escape us; they attach importance to every little domestic incident, even to such a trifle as a lion.
– The heraldic lion, GK Chesterton (first quote); second quote couldn’t find online

Peach Trifle
1995 Roberto Zeni “Rosa”

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Dinner Menus - Second Sunday Supper Circle

A Taste for Romance

Thursday, March 5, 19980

Q San Francisco
March 1998
Pages 43-44

A Taste for Romance

romanceIt is tempting, for an issue on pets, to be twistedly evil and write a column on Barbecued Basset or Grilled Guinea Pig. I could perhaps even suggest some wines to pair with Neon Tetra Sushi. On the other hand, I could go the cute route and offer up some recipes for Sautéed Friskie Kibbles or Tuna-Liver Mousse for your Abyssinian.

Last year at this time I helped you plan a seduction dinner. This year, I offer a romantic dinner for those of us who are single and think we like it that way. It’s just like in the movies. You prepare a beautiful candlelit dinner – incredible food, great wine – and you raise your glass to, well, yourself. Perhaps you offer a toast to Fido or Fluffy.

So what’s the perfect seduction dinner for the one you love the most? Caviar and Champagne is a must for the start of the evening. I am particularly fond of osetra caviar–not the most expensive, beluga–but I think the most flavorful. A nice three ounce tin should be just about right, especially if you’d forgotten that you made a date for the evening. A dab of creme fraiche, similar to but more elegant than sour cream, and perhaps a small sprinkling of chopped chives make it just perfect. Eat slowly, savoring each spoonful, alternating with sips of Heidsieck Monopole’s Diamant Bleu, my current choice for imported bubbly. If you want to stick closer to home, the L’Ermitage from Roederer Estate in Anderson Valley is particularly delightful.

Chocolate and foie gras seem an unlikely combination, but who can resist either? Doing a riff on an idea from the chefs at the Four Seasons Hotel, here is a delicious hot soup that combines the two.

Mexican Chocolate Soup with Foie Gras Toasts
(for 2, just in case)

1 pound porcini mushrooms
1 large shallot
1 tablespoon butter
3 cups of water
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
2 ounces Mexican chocolate
salt
4 ounces foie gras mousse
raisin bread

Coarsely chop the mushrooms and finely chop the shallot. Sauté in butter over low heat with a sprinkling of salt till most of the moisture has evaporated. Add water, bring to a boil, and simmer until reduced to half the volume. Add milk, chocolate and thyme, and heat through till chocolate has melted and is thoroughly mixed in. Season with salt to taste. Be sure to use Mexican chocolate, which has bits of almond and cinnamon that provide additional seasoning already in it. For the raisin bread, I like those little “cocktail” loaves. Trim the crusts, toast the slices and serve warm with foie gras mousse spread on them. Dipped in the soup, well, I told you it would work. Keep sipping champagne.

There is a somewhat odd, but rather seductive drink called a Black Velvet. It’s made by mixing equal parts of Guinness Stout and Champagne. I find it useful in cooking a particularly tasty dish.

Black Velvet Beef Filet
(for 2, just because)

2 4-ounce beef filets
1 pint Guinness Stout
1 pint Champagne
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon cold butter, diced

Mix half each of the stout and champagne together in a container big enough to hold the filets. Rub the filets with the salt and peppercorns and marinate in the liquid for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Sear the beef over high heat in the olive oil till browned on all sides. Add the remaining stout and champagne to the pan, cover, reduce heat and braise the meat until very tender — about 1-1/2 hours. Remove the meat and set it aside. Over high heat, reduce the remaining liquid till it is about half a cup. Whisk in butter till sauce is smooth. Serve over the beef, accompanied by your choice of veggies, potatoes, rice, or whatever you (or whomever may have happened by) like(s). Open a nice bottle of a lighter Bordeaux or California Meritage – personal choices would be, respectively, Chateau Kirwan and Mount Veeder Reserve.

You simply must treat yourself to a really good cheese course. At this point, I’d opt for a selection of blue cheeses. This might be the perfect moment to compare Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton, like you’ve always wanted to. Continue to drink your red wine.

Dessert is a must, of course.

Figs, I think.

Honeyed Figs with Amaretto Cream
(Serves…well, you know)

4 ripe, fresh figs
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup armagnac
1/4 cup red wine
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1 teaspoon grated orange peel
1 clove & 1 cinnamon stick
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons amaretto

Quarter the figs and place in a heatproof glass bowl. Bring honey, armagnac (or other brandy), red wine, zests, clove and cinnamon stick to a boil in a small saucepan. Pour over figs and let stand till cool. Refrigerate overnight. Whip cream with sugar and amaretto till stiff. Serve over figs. There should be enough left over in case whomever dropped by wants to stay and play.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Insides

Sunday, February 8, 19980

19980208
A dinner theme of hidden treasures….

INSIDES
AT THE
SECOND SUNDAY SUPPER CIRCLE
FEBRUARY 8, 1998

Sea Bass & Ginger Cream Soup en Crôute
N.V. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs

Pancetta-Wrapped Salmon & Tuna Roll, Lotus Root Chips and Wasabi Vinaigrette
1992 Louis Guntrum “Oppenheimer Güldenmorgen” Riesling Spätlese

Beggar’s Purse Of Quail, Pheasant & Pears, Date Puree
1994 Acacia Carneros Pinot Noir Reserve

Carpetbag Steak
1991 Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino

Frozen Persimmon Cream Pie
1990 Quady Essencia

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Dinner Menus - Second Sunday Supper Circle

Destination: Singapore

Monday, January 5, 19980

Q San Francisco
January 1998
Pages 43-44

Destination: Singapore

destinationsingaporeAt the time when Robert Louis Stevenson (the Treasure Island guy) penned these words, few people could afford either the time or the money to truly travel. Today, it costs more, and takes a bigger investment of time and effort, to meet someone and go on a really nice date than it does to hop on a plane and jet off to somewhere exotic. And besides, a great affair sounds good to me.

A few years back, I had the opportunity to spend a day with food writer Craig Claiborne. I came away admiring his willingness to go in search of the exotic. When he decided to see what white truffles were all about, did he make reservations at his local trattoria? When he read about cassoulet, did he wander in to the closest bistro? When someone told him the local takeout had inauthentic spring rolls, did he go downtown and try the fancy place? No. He grabbed his passport and zoomed off to Piemonte, Gascogne or Saigon.

I like that. As a dyed in the wool food and wine type of guy, I may love to cook, eat and drink at home, and I may enjoy my local eateries, but more than anything else, I love to move – to get on a train, plane or boat and head off to where I can sample “the real thing.”

This, of course, makes it difficult for me now to give you a couple of recipes and some wine suggestions that you can make at home. I know you’re busy “surfing” the web for the latest “kewl” Java applet, you’ve got this week’s episode of Buffy playing on your VCR in the background, and I know that they just opened a great new Ecuadorian-Welsh pasta place down at the corner. But my hope is that you’ll try the recipes, drink some wine, and say, “you know, I think I might be missing something. Maybe I need a flight and a hotel reservation.”

My youngest brother lives in Singapore and I’ve been planning to visit him for, well, awhile. Perhaps these local dishes will inspire one of you to get there first. If so, tell him “hi” for me.

Singapore Chicken

4 dried red chiles
1 large onion
3 cloves of garlic
1/4 cup of cooking oil
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
3 pound chicken, cut in serving pieces
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons sherry or rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water

Crumble the chiles and finely chop the onion and garlic. Saute in the oil until the onion softens and turns translucent. Add the sugar and continue cooking, stirring regularly, until the onion browns. Add the chicken and fry until browned. Combine the remaining ingredients, pour over chicken, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Remove the cover and continue to cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, till chicken is tender and cooked through – baste with the sauce regularly. Serves 4-6.

Singapore Noodles

½ lb dry thin rice noodles
4 ounces Chinese mushrooms
4 dried red chile peppers
4 scallions
4 ounces shredded barbecue pork
4 ounces small shrimp
4 ounces fresh peas
4 eggs
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons minced ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons curry powder
2 tablespoons rice wine
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup coconut milk
1 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon sesame oil
3 tablespoons cooking oil

Combine stock, coconut milk, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, curry power, rice wine, sugar and salt and bring to a simmer. Allow to simmer for ten minutes. Set aside and keep it warm. Chop mushrooms and scallions. Heat cooking oil till very hot and saute mushrooms till soft, add scallions and cook two minutes more. Add pork, shrimp and peas. Loosely beat eggs and then quickly toss in with sauteed ingredients, keeping the mixture moving so that as the egg cooks it breaks up into shreds. Meanwhile, cook noodles in boiling salted water till soft. Drain and toss with saute ingredients. Add curry sauce and toss well. Sprinkle lightly with sesame oil and serve. For garnish, if you wish, top with shredded basil leaves. Serves 4.

Spicy foods like this require wine with just a touch of sweetness for balance. Personally, I would go for a good Gewurztraminer. This grape provides a delicious counterpoint to the spice, some ripe upfront fruit, and a beautiful quality of lychee nuts and roses that works perfectly with many Asian dishes – including this one.

In my opinion, Alsace makes some of the best Gewurztraminer out there, and your choice of Zind-Humbrecht (if you want to splurge), Domaines Schlumberger, Trimbach, or Ernest Burn would all work beautifully. There are also some wonderful domestic choices and you would not be remotely disappointed with a bottle from Bouchaine, Covey Run, DeLoach, or Sakonnet Vineyards.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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The Endymion Dinner

Sunday, December 14, 19970

19971214
Oh, don’t ask me why, near on twenty years ago, I decided to do a menu inspired by Endymion, a youth of Greek mythology who slept forever. Some versions say it was the granting of a boon from Zeus, Endymion wanting to sleep eternally in order to maintain his youth, other versions have it that the youngster attempted to bed Zeus’ wife, Hera, and the long nap was a punishment. The poem is from John Keats, with my name filling in for the original “Dion”.

Second Sunday Supper Circle The Endymion Dinner December 14, 1997

Second Sunday Supper Circle
The Endymion Dinner
December 14, 1997


Who, who from Dan’s feast would be away?
For all the golden bowers of the day
Are empty left?
⋮
Be careful, ere ye enter in, to fill
 Your baskets high
With fennel green, and balm, and golden pines,
Savory, latter-mint, and columbines,
Cool parsley, basil sweet, and sunny thyme;
Yea, every flower and leaf of every clime,
All gather’d in the dewy morning.”
⋮
Two liquid pulse streams ‘stead of feather’d wings,
Two fan-like fountains, -thine illuminings
 For Dan play:
Dissolve the frozen purity of air

Yellow Finn Potato Soup, Black Truffles & Savory
1979 Piper-Heidsieck Rare Champagne

Braised Fennel & Black Figs with Foie Gras & Lime-Caramel Sauce
1995 Selene Sauvignon Blanc

Salmon, Eggplant & Sweet Basil Lasagna
1993 Marc Rougeot-Dupin Mazis-Chambertin

Lamb Chops with Mint Creme Brulee
1976 Jasmin Côte-Rôtie

Chabichou di Poitou & Sage Derby Cheeses
1976 Château Pichon-Lalande

Moon Cakes
1988 Castello di Volpaia Vinsanto Val d’Arbia

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Dinner Menus - Second Sunday Supper Circle

California Sparklers

Monday, December 1, 19970

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
Holiday 1997
Pages 61-64

California Sparklers

Twice while I worked for Santé, I was asked to do all the tasting and write-ups of tasting notes, for articles written by other writers, in this case Gerald Boyd. I remember it seemed odd both times that the author wasn’t tasting the wines they were referencing in the article, but hey, I got to taste lots of wines.

Reviewer’s Choice

Gloria Ferrer / 1988 Brut, Carneros / Carneros Cuvée Late Disgorged
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
Strawberries and spice in an elegant and complex mix, with touches of yeast and oak, Delicious with any lighter meal or just on its own.

Iron Horse / 1990 Blanc de Blancs L.D., Sonoma County, Green Valley
100% Chardonnay
Delicious, full-bodied style with lots of mineral flavors and good acidity to balance. This wine could be drunk throughout almost any meal.

Schrambsberg Vineyards / 1990 Brut, Napa Valley / J. Schram
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Toasty, earthy and full, complex flavors make this the outstanding wine of the tasting. Perfect on its own or with any hearty meal.


MODERATE

NON-VINTAGE

Codorníu Napa / Brut, Napa Valley
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay
Dry, yeasty and toasty notes, with a good base of citrus fruit and fairly high acidity. An excellent choice with fish dishes and salads. [Canandaigua Wine Co., 716-393-3463, $135/case]

Culbertson / Brut, California
45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir
Bone dry, beautiful color and very minerally. A definite recommendation for people who “don’t like fruity”when it comes to sparklers. [Thornton Winery, 909-699-0099, $99/case]

Korbel / Brut, California
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, French Colombard, Chenin Blanc
Perfect for someone who wants a fruity sparkler. Tastes just like the canned fruit cocktail that I remember from childhood. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $122/case]

Korbel / Chardonnay, California
75% Chardonnay, other varietals
Much like the Brut from the same producer. Reminds me of fruit cocktail, and it is less dry than the Brut. [Brown-Forman Beverages Worldwide, 502-585-1100, $141/case]

Mirabelle / Brut, North Coast
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
Creamy vanilla character that goes down smooth. With a touch of sweetness in the finish, this is a perfect partner to roasted or grilled foods. [Wilson Daniels, Ltd., 707-963-8566, $112/case]

Mumm Cuvée Napa / Brut, Napa Valley / Brut Prestige
60% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay, 4% Pinot Meunier, 2% Pinot Gris
Fruity, slightly off-dry, with a strong mineral component. A nice choice with fresh cheeses and dessert. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 415-378-3800, $144/case]

Mumm Cuvée Napa / Blanc de Blancs, Napa Valley
70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Gris
A tasty blend of minerals, fruit and a hint of marshmallow fluff. This slightly off-dry sparkler is a good choice with fruit dishes and desseert. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 415-378-3800, $112/case]

Mumm Cuvée Napa / Blanc de Noirs, Napa Valley
85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay
A beautiful shade of pink. Crisp, apple fruit and a dry minerally finish make this a delight on its own or with fish and lighter poultry. [Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Co., 415-378-3800, $144/case]

Piper Sonoma / Brut, Sonoma County / Select Cuvée
75% Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier
Dry and fruity, with lots of apple and apple peel flavors; a bit on the “foamy” side. An especially good choice with pork or veal in lighter sauces. [Rémy Amerique, 212-399-4200, $143/case]

Wente / Brut Reserve, Arroyo Seco, Monterey
59.8% Pinot Noir, 28.6% Chardonnay, 11.6% Pinot Blanc
Pale, slightly off-dry, peaches and cream on the tongue. It needs food, preferably something on the lighter side. [Wente Vineyards, 510-447-3603, $124/case]

VINTAGE

Handley / 1992 Brut, Anderson Valley
62% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay
Dry and smooth with a mineral component. The dominant flavor note is one of marshmallow. Serve with light fish or white meat dishes. [Handley Cellars, 800-733-3151, $144/case]

Jepson / 1992 Blanc de Blanc, Mendocino County / Burnee Hill Vineyard
100% Chardonnay
Pears and light spice lace this delicate, creamy sparkler. A natural partner with veal or pork. [Jepson, 707-468-8936, $140/case]

Mirassou / 1991 Brut Reserve, Monterey County / Fifth Generation Cuvée
51% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Blanc
Citrus peel and a fair amount of oak clash a bit in this one. My bet is it needs some time to come together and develop. [Mirassou Sales Co., 408-274-4000, $135/case]

Mirassou / 1992 Brut Blanc de Noirs, Monterey County / Fifth Generation Cuvée
100% Pinot Noir
Fruity and medium-bodied with a nice dose of yeast and oak flavors. Will pair well with roasted meats. [Mirassou Sales Co., 408-274-4000, $135/case]

PRESTIGE

NON-VINTAGE

Chandon / Napa & Sonoma Counties / Brut Cuvée 194
59% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, 11% Pinot Blanc, 7% Pinot Meunier
Bright lemony fruit, high acidity and lots of bubbles make this a good partner to pair with cream sauces and lighter meats. [Domain Chandon, 707-944-8844, $162/case]

Chandon / Brut, Napa County / Réserve Cuvée 491
66% Pinot Noir, 21% Chardonnay, 7% Pinot Blanc, 6% Pinot Meunier
Creamy smooth, with a good dose of orchard fruits and spice. There is a nice complexity that will work well with a variety of cuisines. [Domain Chandon, 707-944-8844, $190/case]

Gloria Ferrer / Blanc de Noirs, Carneros
92% Pinot Noir, 8% Chardonnay
Bone-dry, strawberries and cream and a beautiful, pale pink color. A delicate, delicious wine wthat goes perfectly with an appetizer course. [Freixenet USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $155/case]

Gloria Ferrer / Brut, Sonoma County
80-90% Pinot Noir, 10-20% Chardonnay
Dry, reminiscent of winter pears with just a touch of herbal qualities. A perfect partner with pork or veal. [Freixenet USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $155/case]

Roederer Estate / Brut, Anderson Valley
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Orange peel, spice and lots of flavor make this a delicious coupling with Asian cuisines and spicy foods. [Maisons Marques & Domaines, 510-286-2000, $177/case]

Scharffenberger / Brut, Mendocino County
67% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay
Orange blossoms and citrus fruit really stand out in this dry sparkler. Something about it called for cold shellfish. [Clicquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $160/case]

VINTAGE

S. Anderson / 1992 Brut, Napa Valley
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
Something in this reminds me of black cherry Jello or soda. Still, it is dry and rich and a good choice with roasted meats. [S. Anderson Vineayrd, 707-944-8642, $180/case]

Domaine Carneros / 1991 Blanc de Blancs, Carneros
100% Chardonnay
Yeasty, almost bread-like notes with good apple fruit. A well-balanced wine that calls out for poultry, veal or pork. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $240/case]

Domaine Carneros / 1992 Brut, Carneros
61% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Meunier, 1% Pinot Blanc
Though dry, there is a sense of sweetness with flavors of pears and vanilla cream that carry on through a long finish. Perfect with pork or chicken. [Kobrand Corp., 212-490-9300, $180/case]

Gloria Ferrer / 1988 Brut, Carneros / Carneros Cuvée, Late Disgorged
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
Strawberries and spice in an elegant and complex mix with touches of yeast and oak. Delicious with any lighter meal or just on its own. [Freixenet USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $220/case]

Gloria Ferrer / 1989 Brut, Carneros / Royal Cuvée
67% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay
A nice earthiness in a creamy, complex wine with lots of depth and fruit flavor. A great choice with bigger dishes like red meat. [Freixenet USA, Inc., 707-996-4981, $166/case]

Iron Horse / 1990 Blanc de Blancs L.D., Sonoma County, Green Valley
100% Chardonnay
Delicious, full-bodied style with lots of mineral flavors and good acidity to balance. This wine could be drunk throughout almost any meal. [Iron Horse Vineyards, 707-887-1507, $372/case]

Iron Horse / 1992 Brut, Sonoma County, Green Valley
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay
Like biting into a fresh, crisp apple, this one is full of fruit flavor and has nice depth. It needs a little time to come together. [Iron Horse Vineyards, 707-887-1507, $192/case]

Iron Horse / 1994 Brut, Sonoma County, Green Valley / Wedding Cuvée
100% Pinot Noir
A beautiful brassy color. Elegant, with pear and apple fruit and a touch of spice. Needs a bit of time to develop, but will be outstanding. [Iron Horse Vineyards, 707-887-1507, $208/case]

J (Jordan) / 1993 Brut, Sonoma County
52% Chardonnay, 47% Pinot Noir, 1% Pinot Meunier
Applesauce with just a touch of spice and oak makes this flavorful and popular sparkler a great choice with most foods. [J. Wine Company, 707-431-5400, $232/case]

Kristone / 1992 Blanc de Blancs, Santa Maria Valley & Monterey County
70% Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley), 30% Pinot Blanc (Monterey)
Oak, coconut and toast all dominate this full-bodied, creamy smooth entry. The style says red meat – and lots of it. [Artisans & Estates, 707-544-4000, $480/case]

Kristone / 1992 Blanc de Noirs, Santa Maria Valley & Monterey County
95% Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley), 5% Pinot Blanc (Monterey)
Floral, yeasty, oakey and buttery. A big, full-bodied California-style sparkler that will be best paired with strongly flavored meats. [Artisans & Estates, 707-544-4000, $480/case]

Roederer Estate / 1991 Brut, Anderson Valley / L’Ermitage
55.5% Chardonnay, 45.5% Pinot Noir
Creamy smooth, full-bodied, complex flavors of oak, vanilla and tropical fruit. Perfect on its own or with poultry, veal or pork. [Maisons, Marques & Domaines, 510-286-2000, $318/case]

Scharffenberger / 1991 Blanc de Blancs, Mendocino County
100% Chardonnay
Delicious, toasty, yeasty notes, with a solid backbone of citrus fruit. This would be a great pairing with roasted poultry. [Clicquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $180/case]

Scharffenberger / 1992 Brut Rosé, Mendocino County
85% Pinot Noir, 12% Chardonnay, 3% still Pinot Noir
Dry, bright strawberry and raspberry fruit with plenty of flavor. A great choice with lighter meals and salads. [Clicquot, Inc., 212-888-7575, $180/case]

Schug / 1995 Brut, Carneros / Rouge de Noir
100% Pinot Noir
Brilliant ruby color and bright cherry fruit, wiht a dry, spicy finish, make this an unusual and delicious wine to accompany grilled foods. [Schug Carneros Estate Winery, 800-966-9365, $175/case]

Schrambsberg Vineyards / 1990 Brut, Napa Valley / J. Schram
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Toasty, earthy and full, complex flavors make this the outstanding wine of the tasting. Perfect on its own or with any hearty meal. [Schramsberg Vineyards Co., 707-942-4558, $408/case]

Thornton / 1985 Blanc de Blanc, California
60% Pinot Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir
Earthy, yeasty and rich with good fruit and acidity. This is the kind of sparkler that I like to drink on its own. [Thornton Winery, 909-699-0099, $200/case]

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Harvest Fusion

Wednesday, November 5, 19970

Q San Francisco
November 1997
Pages 44-45

harvestfusionMulticulturalism is the “ism” of the 1990s and food is no exception. I recently returned to my hometown in the Midwest to discover a new “multicultural” restaurant had opened in the midst of the university campus. The menu stated that each selection had been carefully designed to include “elements of the native cuisines of at least five foreign peoples.” The place was packed, the food was clashingly inedible, but everyone seemed to feel they were politically correct for eating there.

Now, mind you, I’m not opposed to so-called “fusion cuisine.” I am, after all, trained as a chef in both classical French and Japanese cooking. My wine experience has been multinational, and I am not one of those who feels that you should serve only French wine with cassoulet or Indian beer with curry. Nor am I one for rules in cooking that restrict you to not trying out new combinations. But for goodness sake, taste the damn dish before you put it on a plate, don’t just mix ingredients selected by opening your world atlas to random pages.

The United States is ostensibly a “melting pot,” a little multicultural haven on our spinning waterball, and we are approaching one of the few holidays that is unique to our country, Thanksgiving (okay, the Canadians do it too, but they’re just copying). Despite popular myth, there was no first pilgrim Thanksgiving in 1621 – they did indeed have a feast day (actually three days), in June, that included “the Indians,” they did indeed eat turkey (also pheasant, partridge, squab, and swan), and who knows, they may have even indulged in a cranberry or two. But for the pilgrims, a devoutly religious caste, a day of thanksgiving would have been a day of prayer and fasting, not revelry and gluttony.

When it comes down to it, Thanksgiving was created by presidential and later congressional decree, basically as a way to take a day off and celebrate America’s prosperity and diversity. Most countries have similar holidays – though, each that I’ve found is related to a particular harvest, such as rice harvest festivals or grape picking festivals or white truffle snuffling festivals. I thought that this year, I’d celebrate the holiday in this column with a little multicultural, multinational fusion of my own (just to prove it can work). Think of the “progressive dinners” where you eat each course at a different person’s house – only we’re going to do it in different countries; and just for the sake of diversity, I’m picking the cuisines and wines by opening my atlas at random.

The classic required dishes for the meal (at least in my view) are turkey, sweet potatoes, cranberry relish, and apple pie. Here’s the test of my multicultural sensibilities in the kitchen – the countries picked are: the Netherlands, Afghanistan, Ireland, and Ecuador. I decided on coming up with two white wine recommendations and two red wine recommendations, and the regional winners are (sensibly using a wine atlas). . . St. Emilion, France; Robertson, South Africa; Badacsony, Hungary; and South Australia.

The Netherlands are easy. Let’s face it, the potato is practically the national tree. One of the most classic dishes of Dutch cuisine is hutspot, sometimes called in English, “hotchpotch.” Substituting sweet potatoes for boiling potatoes yields up a delicious sidedish to accompany your Ecuadorian Escabeche de Pavo con Higos or Wild Turkey Escabeche with Figs (a dish based on a recipe from one of the most famous chefs in our community’s history, Felipe Rojas-Lombardi).

Given the sweetness and fruitiness of the fig sauce, cranberry relish seemed like fruit overkill, so, from Ireland, I went with traditional scones – substituting cranberries for the usual currants. For dessert, classic Afghani apple turnovers – my only question – do they really have apple trees in Afghanistan?

With the dinner coming together nicely, it’s time to select the wines. Since, with Thanksgiving, dinner is usually buffet style, the white and red can be offered at the same time, leaving the choice up to each person’s preference. For the whites, the Hungarian first – Badacsony is famous for its white wines, especially Pinot Gris. With all the fruit and sweetness of the various dishes, try Hungarovin’s Badacsonyi Szurkebarat, or “Grey Friar of Badacsony,” a medium-dry version. From South Australia, specifically the Clare Vale, one of my favorite white wines, full of tropical fruit flavors and just a touch of sweetness, Tim Adams Semillon.

On the red side, Robertson, South Africa is easy, because there’s one truly world-class producer, Hamilton-Russell, and they make one of the finest Pinot Noir’s you’ll ever have the pleasure to drink. St. Emilion has another fave, Château Clos des Jacobins, a Merlot and Cabernet blend that is soft and rich in fruit.

Good eating and a Happy (and now, no doubt, politically correct) Thanksgiving!

Recipes

Wild Turkey Escabeche with Figs (Serves 6-8)

1 wild turkey (about 7 pounds)
3 quarts of chicken or turkey stock
1 bottle of white wine
1 cup whole blanched almonds
4 large onions, peeled and sliced in
1/8″-1/4″ rings
1 cup port
3 cups sherry vinegar
8 large dried figs (1/2 pound)
20 dried pitted dates (1/4 pound)
12-15 pitted prunes (1/4 pound)
3 sprigs of mint
1/4 cup cooking oil

Spices:
2″ piece of ginger, sliced
2 teaspoons cumin seed
2 teaspoons turmeric
12 whole cloves
12 whole allspice berries
2 dried hot peppers

Combine stock, wine, and all spices and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1/2 an hour. Pour over turkey in roasting pan and roast for 2-1/2 to 3 hours at 350F, basting regularly. Remove turkey and set aside, strain the stock and reduce by boiling to 4-5 cups. Meanwhile, heat oil in large saute pan, add the nuts and onions and saute, stirring continuously, till onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add port, bring to a boil and cook till liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar and the reduced stock, simmer for 10 minutes. Add the figs, cook for 15 minutes, then the dates and cook for 5 minutes more, then the prunes and cook for 10 minutes more. Carve the turkey, which by now will have cooled somewhat, and ladle the hot fruit sauce over it.

Hutspot

2/3 pounds onions
4 pounds sweet potatoes
2 pounds carrots
milk
4 tablespoons butter

Scrub and mince carrots. Peel, wash, and slice onions and potatoes, and add them to the carrots. Boil until done (about 30 minutes).

Mash all the vegetables and add butter and salt and pepper to taste. If too thick add some milk (but a spoon must stand up in it).

Cranberry Scones

3 cups all purpose flour
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
1 teaspoon baking soda
pinch of salt
4 ounces butter
2 ounces sugar
3/4 cup of cranberries
(thawed if they were frozen)
2 eggs, slightly beaten
8-10 tablespoons of buttermilk

Sift flour, salt, baking soda, and cream of tartar into a bowl. Rub the butter into the mixture with your fingers till it is light and crumbly. Stir in sugar and cranberries. Add egg and 6 tablespoons of the buttermilk and mix till it comes together as a dough. If it is too dry, add more buttermilk. Don’t overmix or it will become stiff.

Take ping-pong sized balls of dough and press out into 1/2″ thick, 1-1/2″ across rounds.

Bake at 350F on a baking sheet for 10 minutes till lightly browned.

Afghani Apple Turnovers

2 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup white flour
1 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups water
2-1/4 pounds slightly tart apples
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup raisins
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Juice of 1 lime
1/4 cup apple juice

In a bowl, mix together the flours and salt. Add the water and stir vigorously until it is well mixed.

When it becomes too stiff to stir, turn out on a floured board and knead for 5 minutes till smooth and not sticky. Wrap in plastic and let sit for 30 minutes. Cut the apples into small chunks, mix with remaining ingredients.

Divide dough into 12 equal pieces. Roll each out to a 7″ circle. Place 1/2 a cup of apple mixture just off-centered on each round and fold over. Pinch the edges together decoratively.

Bake at 350F for 20-25 minutes till golden brown.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Magazine articles, Q San Francisco

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