Tag Archive: Argentina

Porteño Food Heritage: Fact or Fiction? An Investigation…

Tuesday, December 19, 20060

What’s Up Buenos Aires
NEWS
December 19, 2006

Porteño Food Heritage: Fact or Fiction? An Investigation…

porteno food heritage
I’m coming late to the party by posting on this topic, but it’s been simmering in the back of my mind for a week or two. In amazingly typical fashion, the local Heritage Commission has declared a new range of food items that are considered “emblematic” of porteño culture. Those of us who live here in our adopted country have become used to outlandish claims in casual and animated conversation by many a local that one plate or another is Argentine in origin. Often, these dishes are ones that anyone who travels the globe or explores the world of food knows existed elsewhere in the world long before Argentina had anything but a native, indigenous cuisine. This time, however, it’s not random conversation with a new friend over drinks, but the government itself stepping in to stake the porteño claims.

The one that seems to have generated the most controversy is the milanesa a la napolitana, that ubiquitous local version of a weiner schnitzel topped with ham, cheese, and a bit of tomato sauce – most of the controversy coming from the juxtaposition of “milanesa” (from Milan) and “napolitana” (from Naples). The milanesa part is easy, pounded thin, breaded and fried slices of beef or veal are called cotoletta alla milanesa in Italy, or, a Milan style cutlet, since before the first Italian set foot on South American soil. While the name “a la Napolitana” is both claimed locally to come from the idea of Neapolitan pizza or from a restaurant called El Napolitano that existed in the 1940s here over by Luna Park; at best, this is simply a renaming of the classic Neapolitan saltimbocca alla Sorrentina – pounded thin, floured or breaded, fried slices of veal topped with Parma ham, mozzarella, and a fresh tomato sauce. The dish has been around since long before anyone from Sorrento headed to Argentina. One can even look at things like schnitzel “cordon bleu”, a dish dating back to some unknown time in the history of L’Ordre des Chevaliers du Saint Esprit, the organization of knights famed for their luxurious banquets since 1578… this dish a breaded cutlet topped with a thin slice of ham and melted cheese – only missing that bit of tomato sauce.

Better to have claimed the matambre a la pizza – while matambre may merely be an adaptation of cima a la genovese from Liguria, the idea of topping it with those same pizza ingredients has got to be uniquely porteño… though, I haven’t researched that one thoroughly.

I might also have to give them pizza a la faina – while both pizza and faina exist in other places and cultures, since before Buenos Aires was founded, the use of the faina, or chickpea bread slice, as a top crust while eating a pizza does seem to be uniquely porteño.

Beyond that, the Commission has added in such things as vermú, or vermouth – not, thankfully, claiming that it was invented by Argentines, but claiming the tradition of drinking it as integral to local custom. I’m not sure how that differs from their Italian forefathers and mothers, but it’s now official.

Of course, this all follows on 2003’s claims by the same Commission to empanadas, asado, y dulce de leche – hmmm… empanadas, beyond existing in one form or another in every culture that produces pastry, are a pretty clear Spanish import, even if they’ve evolved to an art form here; the asado, a big part Spanish influence on the gaucho culture here – but is it anymore elaborate or a part of the culture than, say, the norteamericano weekend barbecue, or the still extent Spanish version of the same? The last, a claim that’s been up for grabs and dispute for a long period of time. Though I couldn’t prove it one way or the other, I’d be hard pressed to accede to a claim that dulce de leche was invented either here or in Uruguay – the idea that no one was caramelizing milk and sugar back in Europe before local colonization is, to my mind, unlikely, though I’d be willing to be proved wrong on that.

Other dishes that are apparently up for consideration include sorrentinos – round, plump, large ravioli. True, elsewhere in the world no one calls them sorrentinos, but there’s nothing unique about them other than the name – which apparently also comes from a local restaurant called Sorrento that was located on Av. Corrientes here – though this is also up for dispute, I’ve seen more than one claim that the name comes from a restaurant called Sorrento that was located in Mar del Plata – still here in the province of Buenos Aires.

I’ve seen one proposed idea for a bife a caballo – a steak topped with a fried egg. I’ve even seen discussions in different forums about the whole a caballo “phenomenon”, claiming that it’s extraordinarily common here. Okay, I’ve seen it offered on steaks, I’ve seen it on lomo sandwiches and hamburgers. But it’s not exactly ubiquitous, and it’s certainly not uniquely Argentine. I can get a fried egg atop a piece of beef at any diner in the U.S., and probably throughout most of Europe. Even the a caballo, or “on horseback”, has been called a cheval, with the same meaning, in France for centuries.

On the dessert front – the vigilante – a deceivingly simple plate of queso blanco served accompanied by a thick slice of dulce de batata or dulce de membrillo – sweet potato or quince jelly is a common dessert here. While certainly more common than in many other places, I’m not sure I’d call it unique – I’ve had the same in Mexico, I’ve had the same in France. The name, once again, is as far as I know, unique to Argentina. The tarantela – more or less a classic charlotte with a caramelized coating and an apple and custard filling. The torta rogel or milhojas – interleaved pastry with dulce de leche and/or chocolate. The budín de pan – basically a sweet loaf of bread, or even a steamed bread pudding.

All this is not to take away from Argentine or porteño culture and cuisine. As has been said in many a cooking forum, and by many a chef throughout the world, “there’s nothing really new in the cooking world, it’s all been done by someone, somewhere, before.” What is unique to the culture here is the blending of these various imports, along with what remains of the indigenous cuisine, and imports from other parts of both the country (locro, carbonada…) and Latin America. Rather than picking out individual dishes and claiming them as unique, or even integral to only this culture, especially when such claims are easily disproved, what Argentines could easily celebrate is the amazingly rich melting pot of these varied dishes. There is probably nowhere else on the planet where this particular melding of ideas, techniques, and recipes, both classic and modern, come together in such a seamless blend. That’s something to be truly proud of.

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Online Publications, What's Up Buenos Aires

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Jamie Taylor

Tuesday, October 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 42 – October 2006
businessprofile – Jamie Taylor
Serendipity and hard work help when starting a business in a foreign country
Jamie TalorPacking up and moving to another city to start a new job is daunting enough for most folk. Some people go a little further. Jamie Taylor packed up and moved to a different hemisphere, 7,000 miles away. He left behind family, friends, and steady work for the gleam of an idea he’d put together with his new long distance boyfriend, someone whom he’d met on vacation a year earlier, and only kept in contact with via internet and phone since. He left behind a happy existence in a stable part of the world for complete unknowns in a country that was known for military coups, economic and political instability, and repeated military conflicts with his home country. [Flux Bar closed during the 2020 pandemic, and as of June 2021, Jamie returned to the UK.]

Some folks might think it was a mid-life crisis, but Jamie doesn’t see it that way. He may have been fulfilled in his longtime job in London as an HIV counselor, but he knew it wasn’t satisfying his long term goals and dreams of having his own business, less stress, and living with a man that he loved. When he met Ilia, a young Russian man who had been living in Buenos Aires for ten years, new things started to seem possible. Within a year he’d wrapped up all the loose ends he could think of, and was on a plane, winging his way to Argentina’s capital, trusting in a combination of fate and determination.

Looking back at things now, a couple of years later, he might have approached everything a bit differently. “I might have come down and spent some more time vacationing and getting to know the city, its ins and outs, and making a circle of friends. I might have talked to people I knew back in London about what it would be like to open my own business. I might even have spent some time checking out the bar scene in Buenos Aires before opening my own. Maybe, most importantly, I might have asked someone just how come no one had opened a bar like the one I imagined.”

Instead, somehow forefront in his mind was the idea that “Anyone can open and run a bar, it’s easy and not very stressful, and after all it’s just mixing drinks.” With those thoughts in mind, he pushed right into the fray. Noting that all the gay bars and clubs in the city seemed to be located out in the touristy or residential areas, he looked for space in the heart of the downtown financial district. Looking back, he remembers, “I thought I’d be able to attract the local and expatriate after-work crowd. None of the other bars and clubs were even open until at least ten at night, and lots of them not until midnight. I figured that gays and lesbians who wanted a drink and a place to hang out would love an early evening venue.”

He soon found a large space with plenty of room for a bar, a lounge area, and even a small dance floor. It was on a busy commercial street. It was also situated down a narrow concrete staircase, in the basement beneath a copy shop. It was close to all the things he’d thought about: the business district, many major tourist hotels and attractions, and it was easy to get to via subway or bus line. The building management didn’t seem to care what he wanted to do with the space, so he rented it, and jumped right into the renovation. On August 4th, 2005, he flung the doors open to the public, and Flux (Marcelo T. de Alvear, 980, www.fluxbar.com.ar) made its debut.

In most cities, opening a bar would prove to be a massive task – between licenses and insurance, various permits from building departments, health departments, and a legion of other bureaucratic entities. Buenos Aires, however, has limited legislation and regulation when it comes to opening a small business, and Taylor recalls, “The only inspectors I ran into were from the building department, who wanted to make sure I had my own public entrance, private garbage collection, and bathrooms. For the most part they stood there, pretty much with their hands out.” With Argentina’s depressed economy at the time, he was able to get up and running for what most business owners, especially bar owners, would think a pittance, 125,000 pesos, or just over $40,000, plus savings to live on until the bar reaches steady profitability, something it’s only just now beginning to achieve.

Gay bars have a notoriously hard time opening in many parts of the world, what with local politics, religious leaders, and often underworld shakedowns. Argentina, a strong Catholic country with a history of governmental, police, and criminal corruption, might have had those same problems, but to his surprise, Taylor found that the “gay” part of the bar was the least of his issues. Argentina’s constitution, written in 1853, has long (at least by letter of the law) guaranteed equality under the law for gays and lesbians. Civil unions have been legal for years [in Buenos Aires]. Gay marriage is a current proposal in the [city] legislature, expected to pass with relatively little opposition some time in 2007.

Flux BarFrom the beginning, it’s been a roller-coaster operation. Being new, it immediately attracted attention. Being open at a time of day when no other gay bar was, turned out to be a blessing and a curse. Taylor now says, “There were people who wanted a place to hang out with friends and drink after work, but there weren’t many of them. You know, Buenos Aires’ social culture is such that people often zip home from work and take a nap, like a late siesta, so that they can get up later and go to dinner at ten or eleven., followed by a few hours of clubbing, then a few hours of sleep, and back to work in the morning.” Jamie soon found himself catering more to a small crowd of tourists than locals. That made it hard to develop a regular clientele – the backbone of any bar business.

“I’ll try anything and everything,” he says. “I have art shows with the work of some local artists, both Argentines and ex-pats. We tried Tuesday evening gay tango lessons, Thursday language practice groups, opened up the lounge for meetings of the gay expat community, and now we’re trying late evening DJs on the weekends.” The scheduling is often erratic, as those hosting events change their plans at the last minute – a common occurrence in Buenos Aires.

As part of his plan to attract more customers, he offers a 2 for 1 early happy hour, something that isn’t common in this city. He’s also had to create some interesting specialty drinks, but first, as he points out, “Ilia and I had to learn how to bartend, period. Neither of us had any real previous experience running a bar, and mixing a G&T or pouring a beer for friends back in London wasn’t really enough. He found himself studying bar manuals and cocktail books, and he keeps a couple behind the bar to refer to when he gets stumped by a request. When he found that local liquor distributors only represented a few national and imported brands, he had to spend time searching out sources of different liquors and mixers, often purchased retail at small specialty shops or markets.

What is Jamie’s advice for other gay and lesbian entrepreneurs heading to Buenos Aires? “Have much more money than you think you’ll need! I figured out what my estimated costs would be and then added fifty percent. I wish I’d made it double, or even more. I’m still living on savings and putting everything we earn back into the bar.” He recommends making friends in the community you plan to serve, and finding out what it is that interests them. Get their input on your ideas, listen to their concerns, find out about their lifestyles, and figure out a way to implement your ideas in concert rather than at odds with those things. Otherwise, you might find yourself scrambling to make corrections that could have been easily addressed up-front. Also, find out everything you can about the business you plan to open, especially if it’s a change of career.

While his lack of training and experience in the bar world gave him fresh eyes and few preconceived notions about how to run a bar, it also left him with no practical idea how to go about it. “It was sheer luck that the economy here was ready for any kind of business investment, and that there are really no regulations, or you can easily ignore a lot of them; not that I’d recommend that. A lot of days I wish I’d found out these things before moving across the world.”

Would that have stopped him? “No, I needed a major change in my life. I wanted to be with Ilia, and I wanted an adventure.”

There’s no doubt he’s accomplished all that, in spades.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Live from Buenos Aires

Saturday, September 2, 20060

Wine & Spirits
Restaurant Report
Fall 2006

Live from Buenos Aires
Dan Perlman looks at the Argentine wine

Walk into virtually any wine shop in the U.S. and find a selection of Argentine wines – wines from the far reaches of South America tend to dominate the “cheap and cheerful” sections for many retailers. It’s hard to find many of the quality wines that are also being produced by many of the same, and other producers. In this sector the lead has been taken by Chilean wineries with strong international and government backing that has led to a conundrum for many a restaurant buyer – it’s far easier to select and access fine wines from the west coast (Chile) of the continent than the east coast (Argentina and Uruguay). Names like Catena, Achával-Ferrer, and Navaro-Correas are easily recognizable to most in the wine trade. We know that even recent media exposure has tended to ignore the top wines of this country. Also, much of the wine at the top level is produced in very limited quantities, making it difficult to have even the opportunity to sample.

Unlike Chile, where the government and the winegrowers’ associations have made a concerted effort at international marketing, Argentina has left things to the individual wineries. The lack of governmental support isn’t surprising, with the economic collapse in late 2000 and early 2001, official funds for projects of that nature are largely non-existent. Still, there is a wide range of wines available, and more and more coming on the market it seems on nearly a weekly basis.

On the retail side it may be a boon to have a sudden influx of inexpensive Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot to offer, especially as those same wines from suppliers now established (Australia, “lesser known” appellations of Europe, even domestic U.S.) have steadily crept up in price. This may even offer some opportunities for “house pours” in many restaurants. Still, most of these wines are “just another Chardonnay.” What Argentina has to offer are its two shining “native” grapes. Not that they’re really native grapes, but they are the varietals that offer Argentines a place for bragging rights.

On the white side is Torrontés, a grape of slightly murky origins, falling into the family of Muscat related varietals. The grape is believed to have been imported from Northern Spain, although this is mostly based on circumstantial evidence. At one time the grape was also one of the “single varietals” of Madeira, and old examples can be found. For whatever reasons, it was not replanted after the fires that destroyed the island’s vineyards a century or so ago. Torrontés is unique in its particular combination of flavors and well worth seeking out for the sommelier that wants to offer something off the beaten path.

Examples from the lines of Crios de Susana Balbo, and Viña de Balbo are perfect summer sippers with crisp, delicate flavors, reminding me very much of Italian style Muscats – very common from Mendoza. On the opposite end fall examples like those from Bodegas Etchart, Bodega Sur, or Don David, that are ripe, rich, and powerful, falling into a similar range and style as many of the examples of Muscat one might see from Alsace, and much more typical of Torrontés from Salta.

The true star of Argentina’s portfolio is Malbec. In Argentina, where it has been grown since the mid to late 1800s, Malbec is planted in vineyards that encompass an area roughly four times that of the Malbec vineyards in France. The Argentine Malbec has developed its own unique flavor profile. While blending is not unusual, single varietal Malbec dominates both the markets and the pride of local winemakers.

In the inexpensive range the wineries are nearly too numerous to list. In the mid-range, my personal favorite is the Malbec of Ricardo Santos. At the higher end it is harder to make a selection – not because of a lack of quality, but again, the lack of marketing drive and support limits the opportunities for many wine directors to taste them. My personal favorite is Domingo Molina. There are also some wonderful blends with varying amounts of Cabernet, Merlot, and/or Syrah from producers Ruca Malen, Rutini, and Achával-Ferrer.

As the Argentine economy continues to recover, it will not be surprising to see Argentina gain ground against the Chilean dominated South American export market. After all, as the fifth largest producer of wine in the world, there’s certainly enough to offer.

Dan Perlman is a trained chef and sommelier who currently resides in Buenos Aires. He is an internationally published food and wine writer best known for the award-winning wine lists at American Renaissance, Felidia, Veritas, AZ, and Pazo.

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Magazine articles, Wine & Spirits

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The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés

Sunday, August 6, 20060

Time Out
Buenos Aires for Visitors
August 2006
Page 51

The grape war: Malbec vs Torrontés
Dan Perlman gets under the skins of Argentina’s signature grapes.

TORRONTÉS

What is it?

Torrontés is a white grape that is nearly unique to Argentina. A member of the Muscat family, it shares much of the aromatic punch of all grapes of the lineage.

What does it taste like?

Being a member of the Muscat family, wines from this grape come across as flowery and aromatic. With surprisingly racy acidity, however, this wine is drier, crisper, and brighter than most Muscats, with wonderful spicy apricot flavours and wildflower aromas.

Racy, eh? What do the wine buffs say about it?

Not much. Torrontés is so fresh on the scene that very little has been written or said about it by any of the top critics, other than an occasional tasting note about an individual wine. Torrontés, therefore, is the perfect grape for anyone who wants to wax poetically about wine and sound original at the same time.

Thanks for the tip. So where did Torrontes come from and where’s it grown now?

It’s Torront-és; no self-respecting wine buff would drop the accent. Originally one of the grapes of Madeira, the vineyards there were wiped out during one of the island’s historic volcanic eruptions. The vineyards could have been replanted, but the only source of new vines would have been Argentina, where it had already been transplanted, but it was too far away, and the Torrontés of Madeira was lost to all time. The only significant plantings of this grape are now in Argentina.

Lucky them. So what should I drink it with?

Torrontés makes a great match with virtually any fish or shellfish, and it’s also wonderful with lighter meats like chicken, turkey, and veal. The brightness and acidity make it a perfect foil to cut through cream sauces, or to match up against lightly spicy and/or fruity sauces.

Not to wash down a donor kebab, then. Best bottles?

Among the finest, those of Susana Balbo’s Crios line and the Don David vineyards. Etchart, too, makes both wonderful dry “Privado”, and sweet “Tardio” versions.

Any overrated bottles worth ranting about?

It’s pretty hard to claim anything’s overrated when the most expensive versions of these wines will still give you change back from US$20.

Point taken. One to take home?

Most of the good bottlings of Torrontés are exported as well as being available here, but the two worth sticking in the cellar are the Don David, and the Etchart Tardio dessert wine, both of which are harder to find abroad.

MALBEC

I’ve heard of this one. Tell me more.

Malbec is a medium-weight red grape that has developed a distinctive style over the more than a century that it’s been grown in Argentina.

What fruits and spices can I casually allude to in order to win friends and influence people?

In fruit, definitely something in the plum family, and it can be variable within that – yellow, red, or black plums. Strong notes of violets, especially in the heavier versions of the wine, and generally a touch of warm spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace.

Mace. I’m going to use mace. What do the critics say?

The critics love Malbec – it’s soft, easy to drink, and works well with food. There are only a few that a critic would put up in the upper echelons of collectable wines, but even in its name, it’s easily marketable as a very different, and appealing alternative to the ubiquitous Merlot.

Well of course, I’m not drinking f***cking Merlot. So where does Malbec hail from?

Don’t even mention the word ‘hail’ to wine growers, it stresses them out. Malbec is native to France, where it is the predominant grape in the southern region of Cahors, and is also a minor component in the classic Bordeaux blend. In Argentina it has taken on a softer, more approachable character that is notably different from the French version. But then, it’s had nearly 130 years to evolve here.

So even the grapes are more approachable in Latin America than in France. What should I drink Malbec with?

There’s no question that a medium to full bodied Malbec makes an incredible match with a thick, juicy steak. With soft tannins and lively acidity it just balances perfectly against a rich piece of red meat. On the other hand, there are many lighter styled, and especially the unoaked Malbecs that pair beautifully with poultry and even richer fish, like tuna, salmon, shark, and swordfish.

I’ll bear that in mind for the next time I order shark. Best bottles?

There are so many to choose from, but, to name one in each price level, try Dolium for inexpensive, Ricardo Santos for mid-range, and Yacachuyo (from renowned flying winemaker Michel Rolland) for the pricey end of the spectrum.

I’ll take one of each. Overrated bottles?

Also from Michel Rolland, the Clos de la Siete is not all it’s cracked up to be; and although we like some of the new “cult” wines, like Bodegas Noemia and A Lisa, we don’t think they’re worth the price.

One to stash in the suitcase or drink surreptitiously in the airport departure lounge?

That’s a toughy, because most of the better Malbecs are already exported. However, one that’s quite difficult to find is the original wine from the Yacachuyo region, San Pedro de Yacachuyo.

Best organised wine tastings?

Visitors to Buenos Aires can take part in the grape debate themselves as a number of organisations now offer informal wine tastings in English. We recommend Buenos Vinos (www.buenos-vinos.com) and Terroir (4778-3443, www.terroir.com.ar) which both offer tailor-made, private wine tastings at hotels and residences. Try also the excellent, weekly group tastings held by Buenos Vinos at three separate city locations, each Thursday at 6pm (see website for details).

In mid-2006, I started writing for Time Out Buenos Aires. With changes in their way of conducting business, I decided to part company with them after my last article and set of reviews in mid-2009.

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Magazine articles, Time Out Buenos Aires

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World Eats – Buenos Aires

Wednesday, May 3, 20060

Passport Magazine
Issue 39 – May 2006

worldeats – Buenos Aires

tangoWith it’s broad avenues, classic European architecture, museums, theater, and arts, Buenos Aires easily deserves its moniker of “the Paris of South America.” Then again, it really deserves to stand on its own. The blend of European and native American tradition is unique in the city of more than 12 million people. While visually it may evoke much of Europe (Evita was filmed using Budapest as a backdrop!), the pace, sights, and sounds are rooted strongly in Latin America.

Restaurants, other than those catering specifically to tourists, tend to open mid to late evening – often not until 9 P.M. The range of cuisine available in Buenos Aires is vast, covering the world of food. This wasn’t true a few years ago, when the parrilla (grill, or steakhouse) or porteña (local style) restaurants were nearly all that you could find. While those certainly still dominate the scene (particularly in the central areas) it is not difficult to find food from around the globe. Locals have become far more adventurous in their dining tastes, and with the amazing exchange rate to the U.S. dollar or Euro, the demands of tourists and ex-pats for a more varied range has created a restaurant boom unlike anything in Buenos Aires since the early 20th century.

For dining well, Buenos Aires is one of the best bargain destinations in the world right now. It is easy to eat a very good meal (the equivalent of a two to three star restaurant) complete with decent wine, for $20 a person. There are many options below that price range in casual neighborhood venues and at many “ethnic” restaurants. It is also possible to splurge and spend double or triple that, but it will take some effort to do so.

carlos gardelESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL

Nothing is more internationally identified with Buenos Aires than tango. This sexy, sultry dance appears in films, on television, and is close to the heart of any local. If you’re going to spend time here, you need to experience it. The father of tango, in the sense that he brought it to the world, was Carlos Gardel. This eponymous restaurant is located in Once, the home of many tango schools, tango-related shopping, and also the center of inexpensive shopping for the city (think Lower East Side New York). The venue is the size of a theater, and that’s exactly what it is. You can go just for the show, or you can reserve for dinner and a show, which I highly recommend. You arrive between 8:30 and 9:30, earlier is slightly better as you’ll be less rushed to finish dinner before the 10 P.M. curtain time. The food is creative “international” style, and really quite good, especially considering that the half-dozen or so options for entrada, principale, y postre (appetizer, entrée, and dessert), are being served to several hundred people at the same time! The show is a wonderful mix of song and dance, primarily tango, some milonga (the even sexier “dance of the prostitutes”), and stretches for two to three hours. If you make a reservation through your hotel the restaurant even provides a shuttle service to and from (though given how inexpensive cabs are, you’re better off getting here on your own). You will spend a bit more than the average, but still, dinner (house wine included or you can bring your own) and show combined will only run you $60! Esquina Carlos Gardel, Carlos Gardel 3200, Once, 4867-6363. Reservations required. Open 7 days a week for dinner and show. www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

LA FAR+CIA (LA FARMACIA)

For the gay tourist this is a must. Located in San Telmo, Buenos Aires’ antique shopping district, this delightful little restaurant is gay-operated, pretty much gay-staffed, and a large percentage of the clientele is gay as well. The lounge downstairs is comfortable for a drink while the dining room upstairs is casual and nicely decorated. In good weather, there is a beautiful roof deck with a great view of the district. The cuisine is eclectic, creative takes on “porteña” (porteño or -a is what locals call themselves, meaning “port dweller.”) In terms of food, that tends to mean an Italian-influenced mix of classic parrilla grilled dishes plus pastas. La Far+cia also offers some nice vegetarian options. Service is friendly, and for this city, quite efficient. You will also probably get out of here with a full dinner for not much over $10. La Far+cia, Bolivar 898, corner of Estados Unidos, San Telmo, 4300-6151. No reservations. OpenTuesday through Sunday, dinner only. www.lafarmaciarestobar.com.ar

ROQUE

In general when searching for restaurants in any given city, I avoid the center of tourism. For port city San Francisco it’s Fisherman’s Wharf, while in New York it’s the South Street Seaport. Here in Buenos Aires, it’s Puerto Madero, a multi-block stretch of gleaming new residences, hotels, offices, and dozens of restaurants. I don’t avoid these areas because of lack of quality, but because generally, tourism equates to inflated cost. That’s true in Puerto Madero, but nonetheless, it is a neighborhood that is worth walking through, and here and there you can find a true gem. Roque is one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city. It’s quite large, seating well over a hundred people, but it’s extraordinarily comfortable. There’s a nice view of the port and plenty of people watching. The food is a mix of traditional and creative contemporary Italian. The staff are efficient, friendly, and multi-lingual. For visitors who want to relax and be taken care of, and be able to count on finding someone who can converse in English (not as common as you might think in a cosmopolitan city of this size), this is a great choice. It’s a little pricey (about $30 a person) but not outrageously so. Roque, Alicia Moreau de Justo 256, in Puerto Madero, 4315-6343. Reservations recommended at dinner, especially weekends. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. www.loderoque.com.ar

788 food bar788 FOOD BAR

One of the things I love finding is a restaurant that just wows me from the moment I walk in. It can be a variety of things, and this place seems to have them all: it’s beautifully designed in a modern yet very warm style, and it’s got multiple levels for everything from hanging out at the bar, to dining, to a private dining room, to a lounge. My one criticism: the English translations on the menu could use a lot of work. It’s located in the heart of Recoleta, an area where most tourists tend to spend a lot of time for the museums and galleries, and, of course, the famous Recoleta Cemetery. After laying flowers in front of Evita’s tomb and snapping a dozen or so photos, you’re going to need somewhere nearby to recover your energy. 788 offers some of the most creative, interesting food in the city. It’s not particularly any one cuisine, instead taking elements from a wide range. It may be one of Buenos Aires’ few true “fusion” restaurants. The food is beautifully presented, the service is friendly and professional (not to mention attractive). The pricing is extraordinary for the quality of the food you get here. 788 Food Bar, Areneales 1877, in Recoleta, 4814-4788. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open for breakfast and lunch Monday – Friday, Saturday Brunch, and dinner Monday – Saturday. www.788foodbar.com.ar

MirandaMIRANDA

Several local friends had asserted that this parrilla was a must, one or two even claimed it was likely the best parrilla in the city. Atmosphere-wise, it’s certainly the most energetic, exciting steakhouse I’ve visited. The style is modern industrial, with high vaulted ceilings and painted concrete walls. Decor is minimal, tables are large and comfortable, and one entire wall is dominated by an open kitchen. The staff is young, attractive, and multilingual as, for the most part, is the clientele. The quality of the food coming out of the kitchen is quite good. Is it the best steak in the city? No. But it’s certainly well above the norm. There’s a tendency to be a little arty with the plating, but that fits the venue. They’re also very accommodating when it comes to special requests. The desserts are fantastic. The pricing is quite reasonable for the quality. If you’re looking for a steakhouse that isn’t a stodgy, white-tablecloth venue with older, bored waiters, Miranda is, indeed, a must. Miranda, Costa Rica 5602, corner of Fitz Roy, in Palermo, 4771-4255. Reservations recommended at dinner. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner.

Passport magazine is a relatively new, ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay travel magazine. My friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who have owned and run QSF magazine for many years, launched this publication recently. It has received industry accolades. They asked me to come along and write the occasional article for this venture as well.

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Magazine articles, Passport Magazine

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BA

Friday, February 18, 20050

Outlet Radio Network
February 18, 2005

BA

I’ve just returned from a fantastic vacation in Buenos Aires! Two weeks of (mostly) good weather, an amazing city to explore, new friends met (including one quite special one), and all sorts of adventures to share. I’m going to try to encapsulate it, and include a proper dose of food and wine, in a few short paragraphs (which won’t remotely do it justice, but such is life).

Friends Pascal, Nestor and Tuomas chat over breakfast.

Friends Pascal, Nestor and Tuomas chat over breakfast.

It’s a long flight from New York, a solid ten hours, but I’ve done worse and I had two seats to myself, so being the petite sort, I curled up and went to sleep for most of the time. Arrival in Argentina, and ready to go. My guesthouse (more about which later, as I highly recommend it), had arranged a taxi to meet me, and so I was quickly whisked off to the neighborhood of San Telmo. As we pulled into the area, all I could think of was, I’m back home! It could have been the East Village/Lower East Side…there wasn’t even that much of an increase in signage in Spanish (which says more about the East Village than about Buenos Aires).

Evita's tomb, at which flowers are left daily by fans

Evita’s tomb, at which flowers are left daily by fans

At the guesthouse, LugarGay (literally “gay place”), I was welcomed with open arms by Nestor (center in the pic) and Juan, the two owners, and the current temporary “houseboy”, Henry – about whom much more later! We stumbled along in my limited Spanish and Nestor’s somewhat better English, got me settled, and then I was promptly greeted by several of the current residents. LugarGay seems perfect for those who like to travel, comfortable rooms, a quiet atmosphere, and a relatively sophisticated clientele. I spent the afternoon on my own exploring the immediate neighborhood, and then found myself in the company of a charming man from Finland, Tuomas, on the right in the picture (who thankfully spoke impeccable English…and French…and Spanish…and Italian…and Dutch…and Finnish…), for dinner. We were joined by another man, originally from Canada, who had fallen in love with a local guy a few months earlier and decided to move, at least part-time, to “BA”.

Evita's tomb, at which flowers are left daily by fans

Evita’s tomb, at which flowers are left daily by fans

Dinner at a local, very gay friendly (as is most of Buenos Aires) restaurant, La Farmacia, and then a good night’s sleep. Breakfast with some of the guys in the house, at least those who had awakened, and I met yet another charmer, Pascal, from Paris. In fact, Pascal (left in the picture) and I spent a good portion of the next week exploring the city together.

People line up to get into favorite parrillas...

People line up to get into favorite parrillas…

Like any big city, there are tons of things to do. Museums and galleries, parks, monuments, cemeteries (one has to pay homage to Evita’s tomb…), and loads of restaurants to sample. Argentinians, and especially porteños, as the denizens of BA refer to themselves, love to eat. And they eat a lot of red meat, especially beef. In fact, other than accompaniments of a bit of salad or the occasional sauteed green leaves, little shows up on plates other than slabs of beef. Argentinian beef is a bit leaner than what we see in the US, but I am still amazed that with the quantity (often a steak for both lunch and dinner) that is consumed, that porteños aren’t all a bit on the hefty side. Dinner at a parrilla can often consist of several courses of meat – what is referred to as an asado, or as we might call it, a barbecue. Innards are quite popular, and I tried several new things (seasoned and grilled intestines anyone?), and a lot of old faves. An afternoon lunch on the roof of La Farmacia. Meat is generally served with a sauce called chimichurri, a slightly spicy herb sauce, for which I’ve posted a recipe below. It’s quite delicious!

Porteños also eat late by our standards. Most restaurants, other than those catering to tourists, don’t open until 9 p.m. And no local would be caught in one before 10 – in fact, many folk go out to dinner at 11 or 12 at night, even on “school nights”. How they manage to eat so late, and often go out to a club or bar or coffeehouse afterwards, and still get up for work in the morning, is beyond me.

Argentinian wines are to be found everywhere, and there is little else to be had other than in some of the swankier wine shops. Some Chilean and the occasional Uruguayan wine (again, more later, as I spent a couple of days in Uruguay exploring as well), and maybe a high-end French or Italian wine. Prices, by the way, are extraordinarily low, mostly based on the current exchange rate – nearly 3:1 to the US dollar. But even with the exchange, markups just aren’t as ridiculous as they often are here. At fine restaurants, a bottle of a good reserve wine might go for 60-70 pesos, or about $25-30. The same bottle here might sell in a restaurant for $60-70, or more than double…trust me, import costs aren’t that high. And meals are also inexpensive – lunch is available fixed price at most restaurants and is almost always under 10 pesos – $3-4. Dinner might, in the finer restaurants, run you 60 pesos, but more than likely not. Generally we ate for about 40 pesos apiece, including wine.

Henry (right) and I (umm, left)...

Henry (right) and I (umm, left)…

And last, for this column, but by no means least, I return to the aforementioned “houseboy”, Henry. We hit it off immediately, and within a day of flirting we had quickly become an “item” around the guesthouse. He hails from Trujillo, Peru, and is adorable and my heart remains with him! We spent my entire vacation together, when he wasn’t working, and who knows what the future will bring!?

Chimichurri

½ cup oil
½ cup vinegar
½ cup white wine
1 teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
1 scallion, chopped
1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 small sweet pepper, finely chopped
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon ground pepper (or chili powder if you want spicy)
½ teaspoon oregano leaves
2 bay leaves

Basically, mix all the ingredients together and let it steep for at least 12 hours before using. It should be used within a couple of days as the freshness of the flavors will fade quickly. This isn’t my recipe, but comes from a local chef, and I may play with it a bit and re-post a new one down the road…

I started writing food & wine columns for the Outlet Radio Network, an online radio station in December 2003. They went out of business in June 2005.

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Online Publications, Outlet Radio Network

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