Tag Archive: Italy

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
September-October 1996

To Decant or Not To Decant?

Decanting a wine is when we pour a wine from its bottle into a glass carafe called, appropriately enough, a decanter. There are two primary reasons for decanting. The first is to separate the wine from sediment in the bottle. Wine is a living, evolving liquid. As it ages, certain components join together creating particles big enough to settle to the bottom of the bottle. While not harmful to the wine or the drinker, sediment is aesthetically unpleasant and generally is best left behind. This is the reason decanting is done over a candle flame or other light source. It allows us to see through the wine and watch for the sediment reaching the neck of the bottle. It is also why it is best to avoid flipping the bottle around to look at a back label, or suddenly standing it up from a horizontal position – the sediment is stirred up and becomes inseparable from the wine.

The second reason for decanting is to aerate a wine. Certain wines, mostly full-bodied reds, benefit from aeration. Think of it as allowing a big wine that was cramped up in a small bottle to stretch. Merely removing a cork from a bottle does not allow a wine to “breathe” as is commonly assumed. If you think about it only a dime sized surface area is allowed contact with air – breathing could take hours in a full bottle. A decanter with a wider surface area, and the decanting process, provide optimal aeration.

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What’s Italian For Cabernet?

When most of us think of Cabernet we think of California. We may not realize that many of the world’s top red wines are made from Cabernet – Bordeaux for example. Italy probably never even enters our minds. Yet Italy produces some truly wonderful Cabernets and Cabernet blends. They are produced throughout the nation, from the far northeast in Friuli, to the islands of the south – Sicilia and Sardegna. Though different in style – not only from the California wines we are used to drinking – but also from each other, these wines are outstanding in their own right. Try an Italian Cabernet with your meal and open a new world of wine drinking for you and your guests.

• Gaja is one of Piemonte’s premier producers, and his single vineyard Cabernet Darmagi is an outstanding example of the quality of wines he produces. A perfect partner wiht lamb or beef.
• Although many Super Tuscans include Cabernet in their blend, Isole e Olena‘s Collezione de Marchi Cabernet is a pure standout. Its elegance is a match for our veal dishes.
• From Sicily, Regaleali Cabernet Sauvignon is a full-bodied wine originally produced as an experimental addition to the Conte Tasca d’Almerita line. A touch of rustic styling makes this a delicious wine with game.
• Cabernet Franc is often considered the lesser cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, Girolamo Dorigo proves there’s nothing lesser about it. This smoky, spicy red is a delight with aromatic sauces on meats or fish.
• In Veneto, Fausto Maculan is considered a maverick. His rich, full-bodied Fratta and premium Ferrata vineyard Cabernets prove it. drink with poultry or meat dishes.
• It may look unpronounceable, but Boccadigabbia‘s Akronte Cabernet is anything but undrinkable. Lush and ripe, this wine is ready to drink now with pasta, risotto, and mushrooms.

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
August – September 1996

Italian Whites that aren’t so light…

There are some things that we all just know about Italian white wines. They are all really light, dry, and don’t have a lot of flavor. Right? Wrong. Try these and other less familiar wines on for some bold flavors and lots of body.

Fiano de Avellino is often regarded as the most distinguished dry white wine of Italy’s south. Grown in Campania, this wine shows notes of pears, spices and toasted hazelnuts. We feature one of the best, from well known producer Mastroberardino.

Franciacorta, a Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco blend from Lombardia can be anything from light and easy drinking to a complex, wood aged wine. The single vineyard Rampaneto we offer from the Cavalleri family is a delightful example of the latter.

Featured Producer: Josko Gravner

Year in and year out, Josko Gravner produces some of the most complex and long-lived white wines from northeastern Italy. Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, specifically the Collio zone, Gravner makes beautifully handcrafted wines. Lightness of body, purity of fruit and a complexity imparted by his attention to detail in the vinification and aging processes results in wines that are a delight to the tastebuds.

Twenty of his twenty-three acres are planted to white grape varieties. Of his six wines, Felidia currently features three. Ribolla Gialla is a dry, light white with a nose of fresh herbs and white pepper. Approximately 15% of the grapes are fermented and aged in small oak barrels for five months and then blended with the remaining 85% which undergo more typical fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is subtle with a lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for fish dishes with aromatic sauces.

Gravner’s Sauvignon is racy and aristocratic, with a long, elegant finish. Typical of the varietal this wine has a very “green” nose, a touch of red berry fruit, and hints of sage and tomato. Finished with toasty new oak, this wine can stand up to a variety of dishes, from fish to poultry, especially those with a bit of spice.

“Breg” is the Slovenian word for slope or hillside. Gravner recently renamed his proprietary white cuvée Breg to reflect its special nature. A careful blending of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling Italico along with small quantities of wine from vines planted in 1915 – Glera, Pagadebit, Malvasia and Ribolla – produces Gravner’s finest wine. Elegant and light, yet complex enough to age for years, this wine makes a wonderful partner for dishes from simple pastas to robust meats.

Answers to your questions from our Sommelier

– What’s your job?

I’ll admit, I have what I think is one of the most fun jobs around. I try the food so I know what it tastes like. Wine salesmen bring me samples of wine that I ask for or that they want to sell to me. I get to sit around and taste it. Okay, some of the stuff is swill, that’s the downside. But then I get to have fun putting together a list of what a) I like, b) goes with the food, and c) will impress and interest our restaurant’s owners, the food critics, my colleagues, and, most importantly, you.

– Doesn’t it make me look stupid to ask you questions about the wines?

If we could all know everything about everything life would get really, really boring, very, very fast. You have no problem asking your captain what mahi-mahi is and whether it’s been grilled, broiled or fried with a three-herb semolina crust, or just exactly what’s in a mango-cauliflower crustace sauce with kaffir lime tuiles. Right? Even if you know something about wine, you just might not know everything about wine. Maybe we have a different vintage than you’ve tried. Maybe you don’t know what goes with kaffir lime tuiles. Maybe you haven’t a clue, period. The one person who knows more than anyone else about what’s on our winelist is me.

– So what should I ask you?

The opening salvo is simple. “What do you recommend that will go with our dinner, in the range of $…?” We’ll have a little conversation about what you plan to eat. And we’ll narrow it down and decide on something. You can then appear to weigh my answer and make a casual decision.