Tag Archive: Menu

Post-Chanukah, Pre-Christmas, it was holiday time, and this was just a chance to unwind with some friends and have a little fun re-imagining some of the traditional foods I grew up with.

aunt sadie’s sweet potato sausages with lentils
n.v. francesco bellei brut

uncle mortie’s potato pancakes with apple chutney
1992 domaine monthelie-douhairet meursault ‘les cras’ 1er cru

gramma seidel’s borscht with paté filled wontons
1988 giovanni dri ‘il roncat’

cousin benny’s roast poussins with mole spices
1976 château gruaud larose saint-julien

grampa sal’s fresh mozzarella
1991 four chimneys special select reserve

momma’s chocolate-orange souffle cakes
coffee

I was trying to figure out why I picked this particular date to celebrate the route of the Orient Express, but nothing comes to mind, nor shows up in online searches. It would have made more sense for one of our October dinners, as the inauguration of the service was on October 4, 1883. I do recall that I picked out some of the key stops from what I think was the original route, or at least one of the earliest routes, and each course followed on that theme. I also wrote the menu, obviously, as if it were excerpts from someone’s travel diary. Go figure, I was being creative.

10 November 1996

a smooth crossing and arrived in Constantinople in good spirits. Just time for a cup of good, strong, local coffee before the embassy limo…

All I recall about this dinner was that I was trying to use some unusual ingredients that I’d not worked with before and see what I could come up with.

❶ Simmer Australian Bush Tomatoes, Lemon Verbena, Lemon Thyme and Lemongrass in Stock. Clarify. Add gelatin. Chill. Poach Ecuadorian Jumbo Shrimp in herb stock. Ladle consommé into bowls and garnish with shrimp and thin slices of Serrano and Cayenne Peppers. Serve with Non-Vintage Domaine Chandon Brut Reserve.

❷ Rub whole Pom-Pom mushrooms with butter and roast in a baking pan until soft. Sauté Shallots in rice wine vinegar till almost evaporated. Whisk in cold butter till thick. Add chopped Shiso leaves. Season with salt and white pepper. Ladle over mushrooms and garnish with herbs. Serve with 1994 Pinot Gris from The Eyrie Vineyards.

❸ Rinse Dulce of all brine. Cut in chiffonade. Sauté briefly till limp and warm. Quarter Sunchokes and slice Lily Bulbs. Pan roast till soft and slightly browned. Make pesto from Vietnamese Cilantro, Garlic, Parmesan, Pinenuts and Olive Oil. Season. Arrange Dulce into nests, fill with vegetables and top with Pesto. Accompany with 1993 Coturri Alicante Boushet.

❹ Puree and strain Fresh Huckleberries. Steep with a Cinnamon Stick. Sauté Honshimeji mushrooms in butter with a touch of Nutmeg. Dust Ostrich Steaks with Mace. Sear quickly on each side. Serve in pool of sauce. Top with mushrooms and whole berries. Serve with 1992 Robert Sinskey Reserve Merlot.

❺ Slice thin wedges of Spanish Cheeses: Mahon (cow’s milk), Idiazabal (sheep’s milk), and Ricanante (goat’s milk). Arrange on plate. Scoop rounds of Cabrales (blue from cow, sheep and goat’s milks) and place in center of plate. Match with a 1985 Conde de Valdemar Rioja Gran Reserva.

❻ Steep chopped, dried Apricots in brandy. Cream Butter and Sugar. Add Egg Yolks and beat well. Add Milk and sifted Cake Flour. Fold Apricots and Pinenuts into mixture. Beat Egg Whites till stiff and fold in. Bake, topped with additional Pinenuts. Puree Shiro Plums with Maple Syrup. Warm. Serve over wedges of cake. Accompany with 1991 Kracher Scheurebe Beerenauslese.

The Champagne Region

The Alsatian Slopes

The Burgundian North

The Rhone Valley

The Atlantic Coast

The Loire River

I’m sure we didn’t head out and have a picnic style supper, regardless of the titling. All of the dinners took place in my apartment, which in July 1996, would have been a third floor walk-up one bedroom spot in the East Village, in the building next to the Hell’s Angels headquarters for NYC. But nonetheless, we were clearly going for a bit of a casual French feel to things in celebration of Bastille Day.