Tag Archive: Restaurants

Remember the 80s?

Wednesday, March 5, 19970

Santé
The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals
March/April 1997
Page 15

table fables
Remember the 80s?

Dan Perlman is the Wine Director at Felidia Ristorante in New York City, a columnist and food and wine editor for Q San Francisco magazine, and a private chef

Dan Perlman is the Wine Director at Felidia Ristorante in New York City, a columnist and food and wine editor for Q San Francisco magazine, and a private chef

Chefs threw multicolored, multilayered, phallic architecture on a plate and charged an extra sawbuck.

Caviar, foie gras, truffles and champagne went from movie screen fantasy to daily fare at the diner down the block. Drinks that were rack became call and then top shelf. Top shelf itself came into being and proliferated on every bar back. Tips were as big as the drinks themselves. A sommelier needed knowledge of little more than the five first growths, DRC, Gaja and maybe how to lever out a cork. If the Court of Master Sommeliers had based their exams on a true “need to know” basis, we’d have thousands of MS’s running around the country.

Everyone was spending money on becoming a foodie or trendy drinker. Doctors, lawyers, bankers, professors and anyone else with a professional title were using corporate credit cards to satisfy the slightest culinary craving. Even the file clerk down the hall had an expense account.

Welcome to the 90’s. Tax reform and economic trends have stripped those magical sign-now-pay-later phantasms from all but the top echelon. The question has gone from “what vintage Bordeaux?” to “what bargain Merlot?” Cellar management has become an exercise in breadth rather than depth and sales have gone from a snap of the corkscrew blade back to the art of diplomacy.

Welcome to the ’90s… The question has gone from “what vintage Bordeaux?” to “what bargain Merlot?”

But the top stuff still sells. Who’s buying it? The one class of professional that has the leveraged financing to pull it off is still ordering. The one class that retains those mystical expense accounts are investment bankers – young, hotshot, generally but not always male, looking for that meteoric rise in income, knowing that it won’t last, but enjoying life’s pleasures while it does.

Now, I preface the next bit with the caveat that this is a generalization. (Any investment banker who is quite sure he or she doesn’t fit this description, please consider yourself an exception.) Let’s face it, as wine buyers, we’ve all attended auctions and seen prices skyrocket as guys with too much cash pay outrageous sums based on vintage charts from their magazine of choice. We’ve all had one who ordered a bottle from the right-hand side of the page without a clue as to its content and then announced to his friends at the table what he was paying for whatever he was getting. High school locker room-size comparisons just change form, they don’t go away.

I give you, however, a particular evening. It was a typical night. A party of four late-twenty-somethings popped in, the host a weekly visitor, each time with a new trio in tow. Without fail, our leader ordered his usual bottle of ‘76 Lafite. I presented the bottle for his inspection, and, as always, presented it to each of this evening’s friends so that they could see what he had bought for them to toss down after a couple rounds of martinis. As I served the bottle, I quietly mentioned to the young gentleman that this was the last in our cellar. He stopped the conversation at the table with a wave of his hand and asked me when I intended to get more. I said, regretfully, that it was unlikely that any more was available for our purchase. Without a pause, he slammed his fist on the table and shouted, “Do you know who I am?! Call the factory and have them make more!”

Santé is a glossy format trade magazine for restaurant wine buyers and educators. I wrote as a freelancer for them on and off from the first issue in November 1996 until November 2002 when they decided to stop using freelance writers.

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Wine Notes – January-February 1997

Thursday, January 2, 19970

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
January – February 1997

One of the more enjoyable tasks we have at our restaurants is the search for new wines. Our staff were invited to spend a day out searching the hills of the Hudson Valley for something new in the local wine world. As you can see, we put in a long, hard day up at Millbrook Vineyards. Though we sampled Millbrook’s selection during a tour of the winery with marketing director Doug Simon, we felt it necessary to continue our research. The idyllic weather gave us the perfect opportunity to pair them with food in a more natural setting. You’ll find our “pick of the litter” in Millbrook’s Tocai Friulano, a light, crisp white, perfect as an apertif or with lighter dishes. Pictured from left to right: Felidia sommelier Dan Perlman, Felidia general manager Amgad Wahba, public relations director Shelly Burgess, and Becco & Frico manager Simon Dean; photo by Felidia kitchen extern Ross Posmentier.

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Just Desserts

Food and wine are naturals together, we all know that. We pair whites and lighter reds with fish and pastas, bigger reds with meats and even here and there try some more interesting combinations. But often we overlook the chance to try a wine match at the end of the meal. True, we indulge in the occasional glass of port or madeira, but we generally don’t even glance at the dessert wines.

But what could be more natural than a refreshing and lightly sparkling Moscato d’Asti or Asti Spumante with fruit or sorbet? How about a rich Sauternes, Torcolato, Acininobili or Recioto della Valpolicella with chocolate? Or any of a range in between – Picolit, Vin Santo, Malvasia – just to name a few.

At Felidia, we offer anywhere from two to three dozen selections, a few by the glass, most by the half or full bottle. We prefer to call them Vini da Meditazione, or Wines of Meditation, because these are wines that help you to sit back, relax, and contemplate not just the sensations on your palate, but your entire food and wine experience at our table.

Sommelier Q&A

Can you tell me a little about the different types of dessert wines? I hear about things like “late-harvest”, “botrytis”, “ice wine” and the like, and I don’t know what those are.

The simplest one you asked about is “late-harvest”. The grapes are left hanging on the vine after normal picking time. This allows them to get extra ripe and extra flavorful. The increased sugar levels in late-harvested grapes means that when they are fermented, the wine will stay sweet.

“Botrytis” is the species name of a type of beneficial fungus that grows on grapes in certain conditions. The fungus literally pokes holes in the grape skins, allowing water to evaporate and concentrating both sugar and flavor. That and the flavors of the fungus itself create some of the world’s greatest dessert wines.

“Ice wine” or “eiswein” is an extreme version of late-harvesting. Grapes are left on the vines until the first freeze. They are picked while frozen, crushed and fermented. Because much of the water is ice the juice pressed from the grapes is extremely concentrated. Ice wines are rare because the chances of grapes surviving the first freeze of the season are slim, and few winemakers care to take their chances.

Dan Perlman, Sommelier

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Wine Notes: December 1996 – January 1997

Sunday, December 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
December 1996 – January 1997

Tiny Bubbles

What exactly is this bubbly stuff that set everyone but Cole Porter a tingle? Where does it come from? How is it made? Whose idea was it anyway?

Let’s start with the last question. Despite common myth, it was not everyone’s favorite little monk, Dom Pérignon. In fact, it was no one person – whole bunches of favorite little monks, along with other local winemakers and grape growers – came up with the process. And the process is simple. Make wine, put it in a bottle, add a little sugar and yeast, and cork the bottle. The sugar and yeast ferment, creating carbon dioxide (remember that stuff from chemistry class?), and the gas is trapped in the bottle by the cork. Voila! As they say.

What dear old Pierre Pérignon did was create the principle of the “cuvée”, or blend. Rather than taking one house wine and making it sparkle, resulting in a simple, if still refreshing beverage, he blended wines of different flavors and styles before bottling, thus creating the complex bubbly juice that we now know and love. What he also did was come up with a light pressing procedure to obtain clear juice from red grapes.

Champagne is not only a wine, but a region, and by law, only grapes grown in the region, and made into wine in the region, may be called Champagne. The grapes are limited to three varieties; Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. If a Champagne is made from only Chardonnay it may be called “blanc de blancs”. If from only the two Pinots, “blanc de noirs”. It may be made in any of several dry styles; Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Sec, or in sweet styles; Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux, all by adding a little more sugar, or not, at the end.

Most Champagne is non-vintage. That is, it is made from a blend of wines not only from different grapes and parts of the region, but from different years of production. Why? Because each Champagne house can create a “house-style” that reflects a particular character of bubbly they wish to promote. It may be light and crisp, it may be ponderous and toasty.

In particularly good years, vintners may opt to make a vintage champagne which is reflective more of the quality and style of the grapes and the harvest than the house style. At the pinnacle for most producers, a “tête de cuvée” or prestige blend, made from the best blending wines the house has available.

These same techniques have been carried throughout the winemaking world. The names have changed, the grapes have changed, but whether your sparkler comes from Champagne, France; Sonoma, U.S. of A.; or Veneto, Italy; the important thing is that it’s the perfect choice for starting your holiday season meal!

Sommelier Q&A

How often does a winelist this big change?

Daily. It’s our feeling that our customers deserve the best selection of wines and the best information we can provide about them. Every time they dine with us. Part of my job is to keep the list as up-to-date as possible to reflect new wines we’ve selected (you can’t drink them if you don’t know about them), when we run out of a wine (with over 500 selections dating back to the 1800s, this happens regularly, or even just a vintage change. It is a rare day when there isn’t at least one change somewhere on the list.

 

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East Village Eats

Tuesday, November 5, 19960

Q San Francisco
November 1996
Pages 34-36

New York
The QSF Guided Tour

East Village Eats

eveatsWelcome to the new frontier. Sure the East Village is home to New York’s grunge set. And yes, it’s still probably the easiest place to score whatever mind-altering substance you crave. It’s also the simplest place in the city to get a tattoo as well as being home to New York’s cutting-edge artists, theaters, music scene, clubs and performance art. Best of all, some of the hottest new restaurants in town are springing up like mushrooms after a rainstorm. Maybe they don’t rate four stars in the New York Times, but try to get a reviewer to cover this neighborhood.

Leading the pack is First. Chef Sam DeMarco knows good food. Actually he knows great food. The first thing you notice as you enter into the gleaming bar is the ceiling, stretched with a fantasy of tightrope wire, chrome and a strange facsimile of Star Wars’ Death Star (contrary to rumor, it doesn’t move). Highlights on the menu are an appetizer of guinea hen with caramelized onion, pistachios and plum sauce, and an always delicious pasta of the day. In the mood for something big? Come Sundays for the roast suckling pig special. Want a truly memorable experience? Let Sam prepare his five-course tasting for you. Check out the well-selected wine and beer lists, too. (First, 87 1st Avenue between 5th & 6th Streets, 212-674-3823.)

A couple of blocks away is Circa. This place tops my list for decor. Polished copper tabletops reflect artfully planned lighting. The surrounding walls mix exposed brick, wood and strange giant leaves. The bar is a long, curving S, with rows of bottles tempting you to just stop in for a drink. You can sit and relax in the front lounge area, or grab a table and sit down to dine. Chef Frank DeCarlo is another whiz in the kitchen.

From the main menu, don’t miss the lobster, tomato and artichoke risotto. Pastas are also great here. Where Circa really shines though is brunch. It may be the hardest meal for a restaurant to do right (we’re all at our pickiest late Sunday mornings) but Circa does it brilliantly. Don’t miss the huge plate of biscuits with sausage gravy. A pot of tea and the smoked salmon platter is my idea of a perfect weekend afternoon. A great wine selection from local consultant Steve Miller rounds out the experience. (Circa, 103 2nd Avenue at 6th Street, 212-777-4120.)

Hidden away on a block that looks like somewhere your mother told you never to go is Casanis. A cool little hole-in-the-wall French bistro where chef Sebastian Macszo turns out some of the best “simple” food around. The room is likewise simple, standard French food and drink posters adorn the wood and plaster walls. Tables are crammed tightly together, so plan on getting to know your neighbors – but that’s part of the East Village experience these days. Highlights on the menu include the salad with chevre and dried cherries, and the main course of roasted and confited duck with a lemon-fig sauce. The daily specials are always tempting, even when, as often is the case, your waiter can’t remember what they are. The wine list is chockfull of unusual selections from the French countryside, making this a don’t miss dinner. Oh, one note, cash only. (Casanis, 54 E. 1st Street between 1st & 2nd Avenues, 212-777-1589.)

Across the street from the Joseph Papp Public Theater is L’Udo. Rustic brick, frescos and a garden make a great setting for simple Provençal. An early prix-fixe menu offers the perfect meal before heading to the Public Theater or just down the block to the long-running Blue Man Tubes production. Highlights of the regular menu are the baked sea bass with saffron broth and Provençal vegetables, and for dessert, a baked apple with calvados and vanilla ice cream. The wine list reflects the cuisine, concentrating on simple country wines from both France and Italy, though many a trifle on the pricey side for what they are. Still, L’Udo is a delightfully romantic place. (432 Lafayette Street just south of Astor Place, 212-388-0978.)

It is impractical to discuss East Village dining without at least giving a nod to the strip of 6th Street known as Little India. A couple of dozen Indian restaurants line up side by side on both sides of the street and trail around the corners. Most are basic, with virtually identical menus. Though not hot or trendy, one stands above the rest, Windows on India. The corner location, lots of windows, beautiful lighting and impeccable service make this the spot for Indian dining in the East Village. A far ranging menu that even includes selections from Indonesia offers a vast number of dishes. My favorite appetizer is dal papri, a cold salad of potatoes, yogurt and tamarind sauce topped with crunchy diamonds of fried lentil fritters (the word “fritter” pops up more times on the menu than I cared to count). The best of the main courses come from the tandoori oven; go for a combination platter of your favorite meats, fish and vegetables. Unusual for an Indian restaurant, Windows on India offers a wine list, most of which is well picked to go with the cuisine. (Windows on India, 344 E. 6th Street at 1st Avenue, 212-477-5956.)

Numerous other culinary adventures await those of you who venture into the hinterlands of the East Village. There are the traditional and long-lived delis like the Second Avenue Deli, Katz’s and Ratner’s; Polish and Russian fare is served up from Kiev to Veselka to Christine’s, while Asian cuisine from all over – Lavo (Thai), Angry Monk (Tibetan), Esahi and Iso (Japanese), Indochine (Vietnamese) – are some of my favorites. One of the nicest things about dining out in this neighborhood is that you can have a great meal and your credit card won’t have a meltdown when the bill arrives.

Q San Francisco magazine premiered in late 1995 as a ultra-slick, ultra-hip gay lifestyle magazine targeted primarily for the San Francisco community. It was launched by my friends Don Tuthill and Robert Adams, respectively the publisher and editor-in-chief, who had owned and run Genre magazine for several years prior. They asked me to come along as the food and wine geek, umm, editor, for this venture as well. In order to devote their time to Passport magazine, their newest venture, they ceased publication of QSF in early 2003.

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Wine Notes – October-November 1996

Tuesday, October 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
October-November 1996

The Mushroom Connection

Fall is mushroom season, and they’re here. Over the next month or two, the two king mushrooms of Italian cooking, porcinis and truffles, are in plentiful supply. Special menu items, and, on some evenings, special entire menus will be devoted to these two delicious fungi.

With their rich flavors, these mushrooms need big wines that will complement their earthiness without overpowering them. Both white and red wines are appropriate, and we’ve added some wonderful wines that are perfect partners for you and your mushrooms.

For whites, try the full bodied Fiano d’Avellino Radici from Mastroberardino; Valentini’s earthy style of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is another great choice. From our specialty region, Friuli, we’ve brought in the single vineyard Dessimis Pinot Grigio from Vie di Romans, and continue to offer Gravner Breg, a big, delicious barrique aged blend of local varietals.

In red wines, the two big classics of Italy are the winners here – Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. For porcinis, opt for the Sangiovese in any of its many forms: Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Carmignano, or treat yourself to one of our selection of “Super Tuscans”. Great choices include the ric, earthy, Fattoria Querciabella Chianti Classico Riserva, or try a delicious older Brunello di Montalcino from producer Val di Suga. If you like a little spice with your earthiness, try Gattavecchi’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or investigate Carmignano Riserva from Capezzana. Any of the super Tuscans will be a match for the flavors of the porcinis, try Montevertine’s Il novantuno di Sergio Manetti, a special winemaker’s blend from the 1991 vintage, or splurge on an older bottle of Tignanello from the Marchese Antinori.

When the truffles arrive, it’s time to think Nebbiolo. The noble grape of Barolo and Barbaresco comes with its own aromas of truffles, roses, and old leather. These wines only improve wiht age and whether you go for an elegant style like Michele Chiarlo Barolo Granduca or Vietti Barbaresco, or go for big and solid like Marcarini or Ceretto Barolo or splurging on an incredible Gaja Barbaresco, you can’t beat these wine matches. And don’t overlook the lesser known Nebbiolos like Gattinara, Spanna, and Ghemme.

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Sommelier’s Corner … Answer to Your Questions

I’ve picked a wine, what do I do when you bring it to the table?

The first thing I’ll do is show you the bottle. I’ll tell you what it is. Why? Just to confirm that it’s what you meant to order. As the suave, sophisticated customer that you’re about to become, try not to get that glazed over panic look. You’re only looking for two things. Is it the right wine and is it the right vintage? This is a really good moment to pay close attention. First, I might have made a mistake. Especially if you ordered the wine from someone else, like when you thrust the list at the busboy and said something that to him sounded like, “Bring me the Chateau Marmaduke.” I’ve gotten really good at interpreting these missives, but now and then the translation is garbled. Second, you might have ordered by pointing casually at the menu or giving me a bin number. I may have mistaken where you were pointing, or you may have read off the wrong bin number. And lastly, you want to that I brought you the right vintage of the wine. Each year is different, and why shouldn’t you get what you’re paying for?

 

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Wine Notes – September-October 1996

Sunday, September 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
September-October 1996

To Decant or Not To Decant?

Decanting a wine is when we pour a wine from its bottle into a glass carafe called, appropriately enough, a decanter. There are two primary reasons for decanting. The first is to separate the wine from sediment in the bottle. Wine is a living, evolving liquid. As it ages, certain components join together creating particles big enough to settle to the bottom of the bottle. While not harmful to the wine or the drinker, sediment is aesthetically unpleasant and generally is best left behind. This is the reason decanting is done over a candle flame or other light source. It allows us to see through the wine and watch for the sediment reaching the neck of the bottle. It is also why it is best to avoid flipping the bottle around to look at a back label, or suddenly standing it up from a horizontal position – the sediment is stirred up and becomes inseparable from the wine.

The second reason for decanting is to aerate a wine. Certain wines, mostly full-bodied reds, benefit from aeration. Think of it as allowing a big wine that was cramped up in a small bottle to stretch. Merely removing a cork from a bottle does not allow a wine to “breathe” as is commonly assumed. If you think about it only a dime sized surface area is allowed contact with air – breathing could take hours in a full bottle. A decanter with a wider surface area, and the decanting process, provide optimal aeration.

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What’s Italian For Cabernet?

When most of us think of Cabernet we think of California. We may not realize that many of the world’s top red wines are made from Cabernet – Bordeaux for example. Italy probably never even enters our minds. Yet Italy produces some truly wonderful Cabernets and Cabernet blends. They are produced throughout the nation, from the far northeast in Friuli, to the islands of the south – Sicilia and Sardegna. Though different in style – not only from the California wines we are used to drinking – but also from each other, these wines are outstanding in their own right. Try an Italian Cabernet with your meal and open a new world of wine drinking for you and your guests.

  • Gaja is one of Piemonte’s premier producers, and his single vineyard Cabernet Darmagi is an outstanding example of the quality of wines he produces. A perfect partner wiht lamb or beef.
  • Although many Super Tuscans include Cabernet in their blend, Isole e Olena‘s Collezione de Marchi Cabernet is a pure standout. Its elegance is a match for our veal dishes.
  • From Sicily, Regaleali Cabernet Sauvignon is a full-bodied wine originally produced as an experimental addition to the Conte Tasca d’Almerita line. A touch of rustic styling makes this a delicious wine with game.
  • Cabernet Franc is often considered the lesser cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, Girolamo Dorigo proves there’s nothing lesser about it. This smoky, spicy red is a delight with aromatic sauces on meats or fish.
  • In Veneto, Fausto Maculan is considered a maverick. His rich, full-bodied Fratta and premium Ferrata vineyard Cabernets prove it. drink with poultry or meat dishes.
  • It may look unpronounceable, but Boccadigabbia‘s Akronte Cabernet is anything but undrinkable. Lush and ripe, this wine is ready to drink now with pasta, risotto, and mushrooms.

 

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Wine Notes: August – September 1996

Thursday, August 1, 19960

Felidia Ristorante

Wine Notes
August – September 1996

Italian Whites that aren’t so light…

There are some things that we all just know about Italian white wines. They are all really light, dry, and don’t have a lot of flavor. Right? Wrong. Try these and other less familiar wines on for some bold flavors and lots of body.

Fiano de Avellino is often regarded as the most distinguished dry white wine of Italy’s south. Grown in Campania, this wine shows notes of pears, spices and toasted hazelnuts. We feature one of the best, from well known producer Mastroberardino.

Franciacorta, a Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco blend from Lombardia can be anything from light and easy drinking to a complex, wood aged wine. The single vineyard Rampaneto we offer from the Cavalleri family is a delightful example of the latter.

Featured Producer: Josko Gravner

Year in and year out, Josko Gravner produces some of the most complex and long-lived white wines from northeastern Italy. Located in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, specifically the Collio zone, Gravner makes beautifully handcrafted wines. Lightness of body, purity of fruit and a complexity imparted by his attention to detail in the vinification and aging processes results in wines that are a delight to the tastebuds.

Twenty of his twenty-three acres are planted to white grape varieties. Of his six wines, Felidia currently features three. Ribolla Gialla is a dry, light white with a nose of fresh herbs and white pepper. Approximately 15% of the grapes are fermented and aged in small oak barrels for five months and then blended with the remaining 85% which undergo more typical fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The resulting wine is subtle with a lingering finish. This is a perfect wine for fish dishes with aromatic sauces.

Gravner’s Sauvignon is racy and aristocratic, with a long, elegant finish. Typical of the varietal this wine has a very “green” nose, a touch of red berry fruit, and hints of sage and tomato. Finished with toasty new oak, this wine can stand up to a variety of dishes, from fish to poultry, especially those with a bit of spice.

“Breg” is the Slovenian word for slope or hillside. Gravner recently renamed his proprietary white cuvée Breg to reflect its special nature. A careful blending of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling Italico along with small quantities of wine from vines planted in 1915 – Glera, Pagadebit, Malvasia and Ribolla – produces Gravner’s finest wine. Elegant and light, yet complex enough to age for years, this wine makes a wonderful partner for dishes from simple pastas to robust meats.

Answers to your questions from our Sommelier

– What’s your job?

I’ll admit, I have what I think is one of the most fun jobs around. I try the food so I know what it tastes like. Wine salesmen bring me samples of wine that I ask for or that they want to sell to me. I get to sit around and taste it. Okay, some of the stuff is swill, that’s the downside. But then I get to have fun putting together a list of what a) I like, b) goes with the food, and c) will impress and interest our restaurant’s owners, the food critics, my colleagues, and, most importantly, you.

– Doesn’t it make me look stupid to ask you questions about the wines?

If we could all know everything about everything life would get really, really boring, very, very fast. You have no problem asking your captain what mahi-mahi is and whether it’s been grilled, broiled or fried with a three-herb semolina crust, or just exactly what’s in a mango-cauliflower crustace sauce with kaffir lime tuiles. Right? Even if you know something about wine, you just might not know everything about wine. Maybe we have a different vintage than you’ve tried. Maybe you don’t know what goes with kaffir lime tuiles. Maybe you haven’t a clue, period. The one person who knows more than anyone else about what’s on our winelist is me.

– So what should I ask you?

The opening salvo is simple. “What do you recommend that will go with our dinner, in the range of $…?” We’ll have a little conversation about what you plan to eat. And we’ll narrow it down and decide on something. You can then appear to weigh my answer and make a casual decision.

 

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Letters from New York

Wednesday, November 2, 19940

Le Repertoire
Miami Chapter of the American Culinary Federation
November 1994
Page 6

Letters from New York

Michael [F. Michael Bennett, editor] asked me if I could give you a feel for some of the ethnic neighborhoods of New York that are noted for their food. We decided to start with Chinatown, mostly because it’s an easy walk from my office here in the East Village.

Chinatown is not an easy place to get a feel for without seeing, hearing and being in the middle of one of the busiest neighborhoods we’ve got. You have to imagine a place where the streets are barely wide enough for a car to pass by with someone parked at the curb. Where sidewalk stands selling trinkets, watches, food stuffs and underwear sit in front of shops selling the same and more. This is a place where banks stay open long hours, seven days a week, if they want to get the business of any of the local residents and businesses.

There are many back streets to Chinatown, and one could spend days exploring all the nooks, crannies and alleyways. I decided to stick to the main streets that run through the heart of the district, which, for food shoppers, mostly means Mott Street. You’ll just have to close your eyes and picture this…

As we walk south on Mott Street, we come first, at number 164, to the Lin Hong Bakery. This is “THE” spot in Chinatown for wedding cakes. There are more tiers here than at Shea Stadium, and the white and red roses do better at your typical wedding than do hot dogs and beer. Across the street and down a couple of doors, at number 139, is Shing Hing Fruits and Vegetables. The profusion of colors and smells here is enough to astound the most veteran market shopper. Don’t miss their special deals on starfruit and lotus root. Competing for the wedding cake business is Manna House Bakery, at 125 Mott – they have more interesting pastry work going on here, but just don’t seem to draw veiled crowds.

A little farther along, at 75, is Ten Ren’s Tea & Ginseng Company. If you didn’t know that there are several dozens or more types of green tea, this is the place to find out. It is also pricey. On down towards the end of the road, at number 30, is Golden Feng Wong Bakery, the in-the-know spot for picking up moon cakes – double, single or no yolks. Off down the side street, at 104 Mosco, is the Bangkok Center Grocery – with every Thai ingredient you can think of, and then some. Right at the corner of Mott and Mosco is a little sidewalk stand called the Hong Kong Cake Company, serving, what else, but fried Hong Kong cakes – a great snack, for wandering, well, gee, only 3 blocks.

At the very end of the block is the Chinese Museum – no food, but interesting just the same – and one of a few places to watch a live, dancing chicken. Around the corner and over to Mulberry Street, on the side of the Chinatown History Museum, is the gathering spot for sidewalk repair folk – they don’t repair the sidewalks, they fix your watch, re-heel your shoes, and counsel you on what your future holds – all for the price of a couple eggrolls.

Up along Canal Street, which officially, if not effectively, divides Chinatown from Little Italy, we find Kam Man grocery. This is a giant supermarket of Asian food goodies – if it isn’t here, it probably isn’t in Chinatown. At least not legally. Up at the corner of Elizabeth and Hester we find the Dynasty Supermarket – new, bigger and brighter and giving Kam Man a run for their money.

And finally, since we didn’t want to carry around a bag full of fish filets, we’ll stop at Lien Phat Fish Market, at Grand and Elizabeth Streets – you want a fish, they have it. And if they don’t, wait a few minutes, they’ll go catch it for you.

I say let’s go eat.

Dan Perlman, if you have not read earlier, is a well read northern food writer. Someone specializing in the libations that we all love. Dan has been touted as one of the Eastern Seaboard’s best sommeliers being involved in this past year’s “best sommelier in the country” contest.

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